Basically everything I took to Kinetic Comp this year.

Crown jewel being the MDT DRT chassis and Maztech 15k.

Hopefully, this story is something that can be helpful but also inspiring to shooters of any experience who’ve ever dealt with what can be the mind-numbing and costly task of troubleshooting your rifle/shooter system.

I realize this may not seem a big deal to the average shooter today who can purchase an 8-10k rifle add half again for scope and mount and load some pristine ammo to shoot single holes at several hundred yards today, and I love that. But this story is for anyone who has struggled troubleshooting a system that includes yourself for box after box of ammo unsure whether it’s rifle, scope, mount, ammo, or you…having your suspicions…wondering if it’s you but finally giving up on what you’re almost certain is the glass…well that day of vindication is a sweet one.

This 300 Weatherby Accumark is a very special rifle…especially to me, but as a piece of mechanical precision that’s finally proving worthy of unicorn trust. My dad bought it thirty years ago to hunt elk and mule deer and it has since then taken dozens of western big game animals quite effectively. Last year he passed it to me and with my first shot I took my elk just inside 400 yds with it dropping like a sack of rocks. It’s always been “a great rifle”, but there have been times it just didn’t seem right. Never by a lot for most people’s standards, but we just knew.

In the last few months preparing for our hunt this next week, it again seemed to be unable to really hold zero making me really question myself…the ammo…the system. After spending enough ammo I finally in frustration decided to can the Leupold. I planned on buying a Nightforce because I’ve had good luck with the durability, but was turned onto Trijicon for something reportedly as durable but with simpler reticles and a bit less money. That said, durability and reliability were something at this point I wasn’t really concerned about cost at least in the sense I was willing to spend a few thousand for peace of mind. It needed to do what it was told.

I love my ffp scopes but for this application I think sfp is king with its trade-offs. The results here were immediately apparent and I’m hoping it provides a long rewarding service life. I cleaned and remounted the 7075 Leupold pic rail with red loctite, cleaned, mounted and torqued the NF extreme duty mounts I purchased, and leveled, mounted, and torqued the caps with blue. Next day, I went out and fired some Barnes ttsx 180 grain…half a box to try to get some real data…checking fps with Garmin etc. I’ve never tried them but have heard excellent reports of their performance both grouping and terminally. The results were wholly underwhelming and I was dejected.

I decided to just send a few “nuttin’ fancy” factory 180 interlocks (silver box) that we’ve used for years to take elk…i have hundreds of rounds of this stuff. The first three rounds went through the same hole at 200 yards. I didn’t even check the spotting scope until I finished the group. I was blown away. Heading to Idaho, I knew I wanted to be 3.5” high at 200 to be zero at 300 so I dialed 8 clicks up and sent three more in a slight rush as the RSOs were trying to get us all out the door. The next three still landed half-minute. Unbelievable to me…yet believable.

The next day I returned to the range with the bore taped up to fire a single cold bore taped shot hoping I wasn’t dreaming. I dry-fired ten reps and sent one downrange at the 200 landing it perfectly at my expected POI…insane. I covered the scope and put it away. I’ll take it out once I’m in Idaho to zero at the 300 range but the peace I now feel and confidence in my rifle is something unlike i think I’ve ever felt. Tack-driver seems to be an understatement, and I don’t know that I would appreciate it as much as I do had I not had to struggle with it a bit…tho most of that struggle was with my own Mark V I’ve semi-retired now…expecting it to shoot like this.

It all had me really questioning my shooting as we should always be quick to check ourselves, and it was a source of real frustration, but the work in learning to really manage and shoot these heavier recoiling rifles has also paid off. Having a tool like this makes me appreciate even more those rifles I see here in the sub, in videos, and elsewhere tho because I know what goes into it, especially with a rifle like this that by comparison is just a little more bare bones. The precision bug is real.

Anyway…I had to share of course to do a little boasting, but to also illustrate sometimes if your gut says it’s the equipment…maybe it really is. Now that I know what it’s capable of I’m looking forward to finding out what it can really do. Best to all in your shooting journeys.

mountain long range shooting is on a league of its own!

About six months ago, I posted this thread to get opinions on my Sabre-10. I have since sold that rifle and I got a decent chunk of money back from it so I set myself a goal to get a bolt gun. I ended up landing on wanting a Tikka Ace Target in 6.5 Creedmoor since I wanted a factory gun that was set up for long range already as I did not have the technical know-how, the tools, or the money to have a gunsmith or company custom build it.

Six months and some debt later, I have it.

Tikka Ace Target, 6.5 Creedmoor, 26 in barrel, 1:8 twist
Element Theos 6-36 MRAD FFP scope in a Spuhr mount
MDT Ckye-Pod Gen 2
MDT Send It Level on-rail kit
SilencerCo Scythe STM (Long Configuration)

I did take it out to 500 eventually. Both my friend and I put rounds on steel within three shots and kept ringing it all day. Overall this thing was a blast to take out to the range to zero and test. I do need to work on my mechanics as I am favoring up and left, which means I am not seating the rifle into the crook of my shoulder correctly. Next up is a mechanics course and a trip to a PRS match eventually.

I have seen it mentioned here but thought id refresh the topic after it’s digested a few months. If other manufacturers follow suit and we see more options the pricing won’t be AS high as it is on launch for just 6.5cm. I would like to see the technology expand into .308win .270win and other older cartridges which have been replaced over time but still very common. Any insight on when more options will become available either from Federal or competitors? Any idea how long it will take for prices to come down?

Building my first rifle. It's a Ruger American scout. I'm going for a do it all style build. Trying to keep things under 1000$ before my optic. Already paid 650$ for the rifle. Realistically I won't be shooting past 400 yards where I live. Chambered in .308 and will be used for target shooting and hunting. The OEM chassis is too small for me, I'm pretty tall. I'm trying to decide between the magpul hunter, hunter lite, or the MDT Field stock. Is the MDT worth the extra money? Has anyone had both of these and can compare the size? I'm also open to suggestions for other chassis's that might have not popped up during my search. I kinda want to stay away from the pistol grip style stuff.

Edit: I should also add that I do want to travel with this rifle so I want it to be capable of shooting further than what I would be able to do where I live.

Behold, the Dave Ramsay build.

Waited a year for the ATXC to show up, and man was it worth it. Very satisfied with my two rifles.

I'm late to the party on this mean radius stuff but I stumbled on the subject while watching an older Hornady podcast. This link has a great breakdown of it for anyone interested. (not affiliated)

The Hornady boys contention is that mean radius can focus your shot analysis better for load development etc. This makes a lot of sense to me.

Old dog learning new tricks.

Recently shot my first match and had a blast. I had an awful time remembering what to do during each stage and what my holds were, and that's both me being new and highly unprepared. I was writing holds on my hand from my Applied Ballistics app, and wiping them off after each stage. After some guidance from a friend, I bought a wrist coach since I saw quite a few of them and it seemed like the best option.

That being said, what are you actually writing on yours? Obviously elevation and wind holds, but do you add anything else to keep track of the targets, the positions, or how many shots go on each target? Do you use something else like a card on the rifle or the little tape thing around the scope?

Thought I'd make a thread, will see if anyone is interested.

I've been hearing rumblings of PXT's being slow, which doesn't bother me, but is interesting to me and makes me curious about throat erosion claims if we're needing more powder to achieve desired velocities.

Anyway, my data-

23" 22GT, 85.5 Berger, 35gr H4350. Started at 2910, is at 2935 after ~150 ROB.

Barrett MRAD - 300 Norma Mag
Faxon FX7 Accuracy International AT-X - 6.5 Creedmoor

TL/DR, would there be any problems with using a 20 moa scope mount for a suppressed .300 BO, because a 0 moa is not available?

Hello, and sorry if this is an amateur question, as I don’t have much experience with Short/Medium vs Long range shooting. I am getting a scope that will eventually be primarily used for .338 Lapua, but currently am looking to use it on a .300 BO build. The scope unfortunately only comes with a proprietary 20 moa mount (awesome for long range, yes!) and the company does not offer any other 0 moa mounts that will work for this rifle. So, would any problems arise from just using the 20 moa mount on a short-medium range (maybe 300 yards max) rifle? Thanks for any help!

Cheeto’s because I’m learning with my Bergara as I go.

I checked pinned posts and didn’t see anything addressing this particular issue.

I’ve had my the B14 HMR for a year and just received a new stock for it, not realizing that Bergara uses a proprietary pattern for its bottom metal.

My stock (HS Precision PST038) uses the R700 BDL configuration, and my B14 is 308, so I’m looking for a Short Action BDL - AICS mag conversion bottom metal.

My question is: What are my options?

I already use(d) MDT 10rd metal mags in my factory Bergara stock, so I will use those with the HS precision stock once I get the correct bottom metal. I regularly shoot out to 1000Yds at Colemans Creek for recreation, not competition.

Options I’ve found so far and am seeking opinions on (all are BDL - SA):
-JARD Bottom Metal (out of Iowa)
-Kwik Clip Conversion- is this still viable, can i put a lever mag release on this? Looks old.
-HS Precision - Long lead times and expensive.
-Pacific Tool & Gauge bottom metal
-open to other suggestions

On lunch, will check back this evening. Any help’s appreciated.

I (like many other here, probably) am getting a WMLRF given all the options lately. I am currently using Burris XTR Signature rings (34mm) and have not found any diving board option for these. Does anyone know of a brand that would fit? I’ve had a good experience with these rings and would rather not purchase a whole new set, if possible.

Hi all

Wanting to put some caps on my Leupold but I’m confused on Butler Creek’s sizing. Has anyone purchased them and which ones did you go with?

I’m packing to fly out for a hunt on Wednesday, and all of a sudden my TT is acting up.

It’s a TT Special in a Bighorn Ti3.

As I pull the trigger I get to the wall. About 75% of the time (but not every time), as I pull through the wall the trigger clicks back to what feels like a second wall and then the firing pin releases with a delay. Basically like a hang fire.

Pull, wall, click…boom.

I didn’t change any adjustments to it when it started. I’ve tried adjusting the second stage screw all the way in, all the way out, halfway… it doesn’t seem to matter.

It started in the middle of a range day.

I took the trigger out and wiped all the surfaces. When I took the rifle out of the stock the rear trigger pin had walked substantially out. But pushing it back in made no difference.

Anyone seen this before?

I’ve graduated from my well-customized Cheetofingers Special to a proper custom action and have a bunch of barrel prefits in different chamberings. What’s the general consensus on running go/no-go gauges on prefits? A bunch of guys I shoot with don’t bother with them on prefits from reputable shops, but I’m not sure whether that’s a good idea.

If the recommendation is to check each one with a gauge (and I suspect it is), are any shortcuts acceptable (ie - just buy a no-go and use a piece of loaded ammo as a “go gauge” - OR buy a Go Gauge and put tape on the head to mimic a No-Go)? Happy to accept reality if I really need to get both gauges for each caliber, but with multiple calibers in play, I’d love to save a few bucks if I can get acceptable confidence that I’m not shooting something with a major headspace problem.

That said, I realize I picked the wrong hobby if “saving a few bucks” is important to me.

Tikka T3X ace target 6.5 creedmore. I have the new vortex talon 10k binos to get accurate ranges. I shoot 140 grain American gunner and trued my data to the best of my knowledge. GeoBallistics /Hornady app call for 13.5-14 moa at 600 yards but I’m making center mass contact at 10.8 moa. I adjust this data in the app to my hit data which in theory should adjust my dope chart 100-1,000 yards vs my new data point but even at 1,000 yards I’m still a few moa off. This is super frustrating I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong. Only thing I can figure is my 100 yard zero may be .5 moa off throwing me off at distance

Leupold Mark 8, properly torqued and in sequence. Seems unusual for the front and rear rings to have different sized gaps? It is a 20moa but I don’t think that should matter.

I built this rifle not too long ago. I took it to the range today and I only had 55 Gr Norma USA rounds. I was honestly impressed with the outcome especially since I read I should be using 77GR for the best results. What do you usually use on a mk12 clone set up ? Barrel I’m using is the ballistics advantage 18” SPR. The optic is a BURRIS RT-6. I will be trying to stretch this out to 500 yards !(:

Edit: apparently WOOX is allowed on the sub again, thanks mods😁

I read the pinned posts please don’t ban me to the shadow realm I’m actually looking for help.

I know this is brand blacklisted in the sub so I’m not going to say the name verbatim, I also know they have attempted to fix their reputation in the past few months.

Even if I’m falling for this marketing ploy or whatever I’m still interested as this is the direction I want to go with my rifle aesthetic and functionality wise.

Does anyone have any experience with these? Unbiased reviews online are far and few inbetween. I’m very interested in this precision stock for my ruger American.

And if this company is out to take money to deliver a low level product does anyone have any alternatives?