Prototype still running round rails, soon to be flat rails.

This is a 3D-printed shroud/chassis I’m fitting to a Ruger 22/45 Tactical. Photos are of both sides, the brace pushed in and pulled out. Spring loaded detent for rail release will be on the left side. Opinions?

Recently inherited this old Springfield 84C (mfg by Stevens) from my stepdad and have put an irrational amount of time and money into it.
I’m really happy with how it turned out, basically exactly how I pictured it.
Full strip/clean, wear parts replaced, stock reshaped and refinished, re-blued, chopped/threaded to 9.75”, CAT SR can, Williams target sights, Seekins SRS rail, restored leather sling also from my stepdad

Ruger mkiv or Taurus tx22 for general fun plinking and practice. I already have a walther p22 but I just don’t think it’s very accurate but it could be me. Looking for something that’s fun accurate and will make me a better shooter

I cant believe how scarce the threaded barrels are!! Many places listed them but were out of stock. Ebay had a couple in .17, but were varmint and match profile and I dont want to start removing wood on a brand new stock to make them fit.

Optics Planet had a CZ made 457 American profile for $309, but i found a 13% off coupon and free shipping so I jumped on it!

I have an awesome Savage. 17 with thumb hole stock, but it is an ear splitter!!!

The perfect excuse for buying a new rifle😁

Hello Everyone,

I am just wondering if you guys think that it’s a good idea to get 4k of the Winchester for $256 or 4k CCI standard for $399.

I shot the Winchester before and it often has rounds that don’t go off on the first trigger pull, but it is significantly cheaper. Do you think it’s worth it to go with a cheaper option?

It’s for my suppressed FN 502.

Thanks!

I'm recently getting into more precise pistol shooting; most of those people tend to use standard velocity ammo (rated around 1050fps).

CCI is affordable but hard to find; then next level up would be stuff like SK, Wolf, and Eley target. Most of the "cheap" rounds are rated around 1250 fps. (Automatch, Blazer, aguilla, etc)

What do y'all use for standard velocity practice ammo?

Someone educate me on why the "packable 22lr rifle" exists. First off I think it's a cool range toy so I guess that's a reason itself, but practically what are these really used for?

Personally the survival rifle concept doesn't make sense to me unless I was a downed bush pilot in Alaska, then sure I guess... But for camping/backpacking in most of the US, why not pack something like a keltec sub2k, Ruger PC Takedown, or just a 10mm Glock?

Are these aimed at more of a defensive or hunting scenario?

Anyone else always finish their range sessions by shooting your .22? No matter what I’m doing, I ALWAYS bring my super wrangler and just run a hundred or so rounds through it. So relaxing and fun.

Here she is in all her glory.

Had to modify the forend file to accommodate the 5.5” barrel.

But I think she came out well. Huge props to the designer!

I havnt owned a 22 for 30 years, im out of the loop. Im looking for a reliable rifle I can buy a ton of clips for and just take in the woods with the kids and have some fun. Prefer something with a suppressor so I dont piss off the neighbors. Also the land is in nys which I know is a brutal on laws. Any brands or models I should look for would be great thanks.

Any ideas why it’s not chambering rounds consistently?

Edit: Thanks for all the thoughts and fixes. I’m thankful to learn from the comments and consider factors I hadn’t before. A bigger bang from the bullet did the trick.

Bought this gun about 2 months ago and I love it. Put about 100 or so rounds through it of varying make an model, but mostly CCI and Eleys. This past weekend I went up about 5 hours north of Montreal to hunt ruffed grouse and spruce grouse with some buddies. While I was up there I probably went through 300 - 500 rounds target shooting, again CCI and Eley, both match and varmint rounds, everything went great. For reference it was cold temps ranging from -10 to 5C.

When we were out hunting the last day, like so many times before that weekend, I chambered a round - and then if say we either lost the bird, or a buddy shot it, or whatever reason I'd pop the mag, pull the bolt back and eject the chambered round which would either pop out onto the side of the gun or occasionally drop on the ground. I'd pick it up, feel around with my fingers quickly for debris or deformaties - if all good (which they were), I'd pop it back in the mag jump in the truck or ATV and head off to the next spot.

When we got back from hunting I wanted to empty my magazines on some targets we had on our little range. Popped in the mag, (top bullet was one that had been chambered - a CCI Stinger, ejected and put back into the mag). Pushed the bolt forward and the round went off down range hitting the dirt pile when I locked the bolt down. I did NOT have my finger anywhere near the trigger, one hand was on the forward stock and other was pushing the bolt forward. I checked the chamber, everything looked fine, I ended up clearing the 2 mags - so another 19 rounds of the same ammo. No misfires.

I plan on calling the gun store I bought it at in the morning, though in the meantime I just thought I'd see if anyone else had run into this issue or ideas what might have caused this? Thanks.

I’m putting together a CZ 457 .22 LR precision rifle for recreational benchrest shooting, primarily at 25–100 yards, with most shooting at 50 yards.

I’m deciding between two Athlon scopes:
Argos BTR Gen2 10–40x56 SFP — $400
Heras SPR 15–60x56 SFP — $700

I primarily shoot paper targets, trying to achieve the tightest possible 3–5 shot groups.
I’ve used a friend’s Nightforce 12–42x56 on his CZ 457 MTR and absolutely loved the high magnification and image clarity. I understand neither Athlon will match that level of glass.

I’m leaning toward the Argos because I prefer its BLR reticle over the Heras’s BLR2, but the possibility of 60x magnification is extremely appealing.

I’m particularly interested in hearing from people who have actually used either scope, especially anyone who has compared both.

My main questions:
How is the optical clarity at 35–40x on each?
Is the Heras genuinely usable at 50–60x, or does the image become noticeably soft?
Does the Heras offer noticeably better glass or resolution at equivalent magnification?
How do the reticles compare when aiming at very small targets?
Is the Heras worth the additional $300?

I’m not trying to build a professional competition rifle, just a fun, accurate .22 for shooting with friends.

Any firsthand experience would be appreciated!

Tikka T1X 18"

Otter Creek Labs Titanium 22

KRG Bravo stock with the enclosed fore end

MDT Oryx bipod I had to modify a bit

Vortex Venom 3-15 that I absolutely need to swap out so if you have recommendations I'm all ears.

went to zero my rifle and i ended up using kitty litter as my rest

I'm going to do this simply because I can't help myself.

I pointed out that the absolute smallest deviation at the barrel can cause a huge deviation at the Target (assuming 100yards).

So, I wondered how much deviation, due mostly to User Error, at the 100yd target is cause by a fixed amount of deviation at the barrel.

The Formula is - Dv = Tan(a) x D

Dv = Deviation

Tan(a) = tangent of the amount of deviation

D = Distance, Resulting Units will be the same as those of the Distance.

OK let's assume a very small 1° deviation when you pull the Trigger -

Dv = Tan(1°) x 100yds = 1.75 yds or 62.8 inches

THAT IS HUGE!

So, let's go really small down to 0.25° deviation due to Poor Trigger Pull or Flinching.

Dv = Tan(0.25°) x 100 = .44 yards = 15.7 inches

It should be clear by now that microscopic Deviations at the Barrel can cause HUGE deviations in the Point of impact. Intuitively you knew that, but now you can see just HOW Still and Steady you need to be to hold tight groups.

Let's go even smaller -

Dv = Tan(0.1°) x 100 = 0.17yrds = 6.28 inches

That is at truly microscopic deviation at the Barrel resulting in a STILL significant deviation at the target. The 6.28" deviations amounts to a Group that is (±6.28") which is a Group Size of 12.56". That is not great shooting.

That is the true skill of a Precision shooter.

Now let's move to something beyond microscopic, and see the results -

Dv = Tan(0.01°) x 100 = 0.017yrds = 0.63 inches

That is how Still and Steady you need to be to hold 1 MOA at 100 yards.

To shoot a 4" Group at 100 Yards, your deviation at the Target would have to be less than 2" (±2"), and that works out to -

Dv = Tan(0.035°) x 100 = 0.061 Yrds = 2.199 inches

That is how Still and Steady the Barrel has to be to hold 4" (±2") groups.

Shooting Equipment and Technique have to be very refined to hold even a 4" Group, and to holds a 1" Group you have to be Steady as a Rock. That is precisely why every Tom, Dick, and Harry is NOT a Precision Shooter.

I'm not saying this to discourage anyone, because LOTS OF PEOPLE can hold a 1" Group at 100 yards, all I'm saying it that to hold that 1" Group, your shooting skills have to be very Refined and Controlled.

Just thought you might like to know.

Not that is matters to anyone, but I came up with this Formula while trying to determine the Fan-Out or Dispersion of Tweeters at a normal seating distance, but it works here too.

So, when you ask yourself and others - Why aren't my 100 yard Groups Tighter? - this is the answer. You are a User who had not refined himself to be as Still and Steady within 0.01° Deviation at the Barrel.

Instead of chasing - Barrels, Triggers, Stocks, Sights, etc... - try chasing - Refined Shooting Technique - instead.

Shooting, or Shooting Accurately is way more complicated that simply - Point and Shoot.

But then ... that's just my opinion.

Took my two favorite single shots out today. Top is a BSA Martini action and the bottom is a stevens crack shot. Great way to have fun and conserve ammo. Also took my son who just recently got his first cricket 22. First time actually shooting and he is now hooked just like his dad!

Hi everyone!

I recently bought my first rifle here in France, where getting into shooting isn’t always the easiest thing. I was initially torn between a .44 Magnum lever-action rifle and a .22 LR, but the cost of ammunition made the decision pretty easy. I figured I’d end up shooting the .44 far less often, whereas with a .22 LR, I can afford to go shooting three times a week if I want to!

I ended up finding this beautiful used CZ 452 American from 2009, and it’s in absolutely pristine condition. I love the classic look and the beautiful walnut stock. It’s a rifle I can genuinely see myself keeping for a lifetime.

The only thing I’m a bit disappointed with is the scope that came with it: a Nikko Stirling Mountmaster 3-9x40. I’m struggling to get the focus right. I can either get the reticle sharp or the target sharp, but I can’t seem to get both in focus at the same time. I’ve settled on a compromise for now, but it’s not ideal.

So, I’m thinking about upgrading to a decent quality scope without spending a fortune. What would you recommend for a CZ 452 American, mainly for shooting at 50 metres? I’m not looking for anything tactical or overly fancy, just good glass, reliable adjustments, and something that suits the classic look of the rifle.

Thanks in advance for your recommendations!

Anyone have experience/opinions on the best frt for a tx22 toro?

mark III stippled and rippled poor boy style. why they don't make double stacks for this thing i have no idea. what trigger upgrade have yall enjoyed? volq? or sumn else?