Happens when i use my windshield wipers (everywhere, all across the glass), even with washer fluid. Any idea what the problem could be?

I did the same exact procedure on both headlight. alcohol clean first, sanded 400-600-100-1500-2000, polished with a microfiber polish pad, and then clear coated.

The Car:

2006 Toyota Matrix XR AWD (1.8L 1ZZ-FE, automatic) sitting at \~264,000 miles.

The Issue:

Rear diff started making rotational whining/growling noises under load. Checked the fluid and it’s full of metal flakes/shavings—gears/bearings are toast. On a car with 264k on the clock, sinking $800–$1,000+ into sourcing and swapping a salvage carrier assembly just doesn't make financial sense.

The Plan:

Convert it to front-wheel drive by doing a simple center driveshaft delete:

Unbolt and completely drop the center driveshaft (front flange at the transfer case, center support carrier bearing, and rear flange at the viscous coupler).

Leave the rear differential and both rear axle half-shafts completely intact so the rear wheel hub bearings stay factory-sealed and properly torqued (avoiding having to cut/gut outer CV stubs to keep the rear hubs clamped).

Drain the rear differential and fill it with heavy gear oil (80W-140 or 85W-140) to cushion the passive ring/spider gears as they free-wheel with the rear wheels.

Questions for anyone who’s done this on a Matrix / Vibe AWD:

Any weird ABS, traction control, or ECU warning lights triggered once the center driveshaft is out?

How has the rear differential held up long-term just idling in thick gear oil without engine torque pushing the pinion?

Any clearance or balance issues at the transfer case output flange once the front of the driveshaft is unbolted?

Appreciate any real-world feedback or tips before I have the shop throw it on the lift.

I keep a portable lithium jump starter in the trunk because it feels like a simple bit of emergency insurance, but winter makes me wonder how much maintenance people actually do. A pack can show some charge and still be less useful after sitting through cold weeks, and I know I am not great about checking gear once it disappears under the cargo floor. For people who rely on one, do you bring it inside during cold snaps, top it off every month or two, or test it before a long drive? I am trying to set a routine before the first dead-battery morning makes the decision for me.

I have a 22 plate car which I bought in May - noticed an issue with the heating not working and it is now booked in the garage… apparently a system update is required or something?

Hoping the above is relevant - it had a smell when I first bought it which I assumed was previous owner. It went in the summer and now it’s back… assuming due to lack of heating and is a damp/cheese smell.

I’ve popped dehumidifiers in there - any other suggestions?

Weird issues for such a young car

Car over heated after running out of coolant. Pulled over and couldn’t get car to start again video of trying to get it started. Any ideas what it might be?

Desperately in need of some motivation to get back into my garage after a summer of bbqing when I should have been working on either of my project cars. What have you all started recently?

Hey everyone! Looking for some advice and opinions on my 2024 Kia Forte GT-Line with 37,000 miles. I bought it used from a Kia dealership, and I’m trying to figure out what could be causing these issues before I start throwing money at parts.
Here’s everything going on with the car:
• Check engine light — P0420: The light has been acting weird. It will come on, stay on for a little while, then turn off for a couple of weeks before coming back. For example, it came on a few weeks ago, went away for around three weeks, and then started coming back on and off repeatedly over the last several days. Sometimes it comes on, turns off, and then comes back on again. Other times it stays off for a week or two before returning. I’m not sure what’s causing it to come and go. Could it be the catalytic converter, an exhaust leak, an O2 sensor, or something else?
• Passenger-side window: Makes a weird clicking noise when rolling down, and the window seems to shift as it goes down.
• Passenger door seal: The seal is broken and needs to be replaced.
• Front brakes: Need to be addressed.
• Front tires: Need to be replaced.
• TPMS/tire pressure light: The warning stays on even though all the tires seem to be reading the same PSI. I still need to verify the pressures against the recommended PSI on the driver’s door sticker.
• Front-right clicking noise: Happens when going over bumps, especially when the car is cold. It seems to go away once the car warms up.
I’m trying to narrow down the most likely causes, especially for the P0420 code, the intermittent check-engine light, the front-right clicking noise, and the passenger window issue.
Has anyone experienced similar problems with a 2024 Kia Forte GT-Line or another Kia? What would you check first? Are there any common problems with these cars that could explain any of this?
Since I bought it from a Kia dealership, I’m also going to check what might be covered under warranty before paying for repairs.
Any advice, suggestions, or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! 🙏

My friends keep making fun of me driving a V70. I think it's really cool and fun to drive, can some people agree with me that Volvo is awesome???

Some of their R models are really surprisingly quick! And, the 850r exists

What is going on most likely? My guess it’s either the auxiliary cord or my stereo. I don’t know. It was playing fine earlier today, but in the middle of a song it just all of a sudden just stopped taking in sound from my phone. My phone kept going on a song as the timer was continuing on the song, but there was no sound going through the speakers anymore. The phone was plugged in and everything, but there was no longer any sound going through the speakers. I even tested my phone with some earphones, and those earphones with my phone work just fine. My phone and my car and the auxiliary cord would work together very well all the time up until now. I don’t know what’s going on. I was listening to music, then at random all of a sudden silence. Now it’s not working.

Inside rim got bent. It’s a 2026 Kia K4 GT Line. The Dealership said they could fix it for $270. Shouldn’t I just buy a new rim rather than fix the bent one? Especially being a new car? Thank you for any help! I think if you click on main body the pictures I attached may show up. TL/DR Is this a viable repair?

I have had my manual, FWD hot hatch since new and it will be 20 years old soon. Early on, I spent thousands on mods early on - coilovers, exhaust, bigger turbo, big brake kit, LSD, and more. It's the car that I learned everything on and installed almost everything myself. Because of all the travel I did for work all the time, it barely has any miles on it. A few years ago, I bought a Toyota truck as a daily and as a second car, which I really enjoyed for its versatility for our winters here. And, it only needed oil changes and prop shaft lubrication. No drama.

But, since I no longer commute to work or travel for work, most of my driving is now done on the weekends when I work my second job where I drive 3 to 4 hours a day.

My car is still in mint condition, no rust, no mechanical issues, but things here and there are starting to need work. It needs new coilovers, the sagging headliner fixed, and the A/C fixed. The repairs would cost around 6K because of the high end coilovers that I refuse to compromise on. However, it made me realize that these same coilovers would cost exactly the same on a more modern and more capable car if I were to spend that type of money (or just to spend the money towards a new car). The thing I value most in a car are its driving dynamics first. The other realization is that this FWD platform won't benefit from any more power or handling upgrades.

Lately, I wondered if it made sense to consolidate both cars for something newer that I could drive daily. But also, the beauty of having two cars makes it easy to have a weekend car that is purely impractical too, such as a real sports car instead of a hot hatch if I decide to sell my hot hatch. In that case, I have been considering an 86/BRZ with a manual for an honest, amazing handling, analog, rear wheel drive experience.

What would you do?

I don’t know, but I think my car has a hemi tick. Can y’all let me know 😭

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Hey everyone,

I'm considering buying a 2013 Ford Edge Limited with the 3.5L V6 engine and around 200,000 km. The asking price is $6,000 CAD.

The seller mentioned that the rear differential seal has a small leak. I'm planning to negotiate the price down because of this issue. As far as I know, the leak is minor, but I'll definitely get a pre-purchase inspection before making a decision.

I'm looking for a reliable daily driver that I can keep for several years without spending a fortune on repairs. I don't mind doing some maintenance, but I'd like to avoid major unexpected expenses.

A few questions:

- Is the 3.5L V6 generally reliable at this mileage?

- How reliable is the automatic transmission?

- How expensive can a rear differential seal leak become if left unrepaired?

- Are there any common problems I should watch out for, especially with the water pump and timing chain?

- Is this a reasonable purchase if the inspection comes back good and I negotiate a lower price?

Would you buy one at this mileage and price, or would you look for something else?

I'd appreciate any advice, especially from people who own or have worked on these vehicles. Thanks!

Having this issue with the hood of my Suzuki Swift. I know red paint can oxidize leading to dulling. Only have this issue on the hood; the rest of the body panels are fine. I have taken it to a couple of detailers to try to get it buffed out. However, currently it looks like this.

Is this something that I can fix myself? Or will I have to get it repainted?

Any tips are much appreciated!

I saw a post looking for identification of a thing in a car and the consensus was that it was a KARR thing.

I recently bought a newer used car from a Lithia dealer and noticed I have one of these devices.
Is it like Lojack? If I have the thing, do I have the service? Can I cut it out? I went to the KARR website and there's only a login, not a new account. No place to search my VIN.

What are the pros and cons here?

Hello, noticed on my way to work that my engine sounds different. Everything seems to work and shift properly, but something feels off. Drove from Johnson city to Memphis this morning and it seemed the noise got worse the closer I got to Memphis. It’s a 2020 Impreza manual with 145k miles.

Was quoted $4500 . Is that reasonable?

Ok very specific issue for me in my 2014 STI, it started recently. I've only had my check engine light flicker on one time and it was only for like 2 brief seconds but basically the situation is this:

In any gear that isn't 4th I have good compression and throttle response. However, as of recently anytime I press the gas pedal kinda halfway in, in 4th gear, at 4k RPM, the car doesn't accelerate and my revs don't go up.

Now I have tried to replicate the check engine light but I could not do it and I also don't wanna blow an engine on purpose. I can kinda feel it though, when I hit 4K the car doesn't really move and the revs don't go up, I swear maybe even the car shudders a bit but this is definitely not normal, can't be.

I've heard misfires can be common especially with this engine but this is weird to me because so far I have consistently pinky felt that drop in power in 4th at 4K rpm with the pedal halfway down. I even tried flooring it in 4th from 3K to 6K rom and no issues.

Maybe there's just a drop in power at 4th that a tune could work out? Or is there a bigger issue here that needs to be addressed immediately?

Also: leak down and compression tests were well within margin of error as about 2 months ago.

Alao: for some reason, I was in the intelligent knob setting and when I got the CEL, the car switched itself to sport. Bad battery maybe?

TLDR: Potentially misfiring a cylinder specifically ONLY in 4th at 4K rpm with the pedal halfway to the floor. Got a CEL once, cannot replicate though. I stop trying to replicate it when I feel the car about to/is Potentially misfiring.