Subarus aren’t unreliable, people just don’t take good care of them. The previous owner bought it new and drove not only a lot of highway miles but a lot of city miles too (between upstate NY to NYC). Always changed the oil on time. Not sure what has been replaced on the car, but we do know it’s the original engine and transmission.

Previous owner replaced it with a new Outback!

It was, however, not a comment on the way I drive.

It’s been a journey. Love this car more than anything

Thought y'all would appreciate this Outback we just completed at our shop!

I made this flyer and have been passing it around town.

I’m trying to organize a community event in Georgia. I know there’s a Subie Crew around GA / AL that has events in ATL but I’m not affiliated with them. I’d love to join or collaborate if possible though.

DM me if you can make it and I’ll send you the QR code! I’d love to have everyone there.

My first Subaru. 3.6R.

Happy to finally be part of the family.

I will be honest, this thing is pretty darn quick. Previous owner already had a remote start installed, lighter Sport Tuning rims, a CVT tune, white logos, and a slight tint on the front windows. I've had it for 9 months now: mods I’ve done so far:

• Stage 2 Takeda intake
• MAF upgrade
• Cleaned the throttle body
• New spark plugs + PCV valve
• New Serpentine belt and pulley

A dyno test shows it’s making around 265 hp at the crank now with premium gas — right around stock WRX numbers. 0-60 is in the low 6s if I put it in manual mode and kill traction control.

The CVT tune by xrt (previous guy said he did a stage 1, which I believe is really the only thing out there for this car model; mods are hard for this, ngl) really wakes it up too.

Response is sharper and it actually hangs near redline longer instead of doing those fake shift bumps that drop you back down.

Not sure how old the CVT fluid is. A mechanic checked it two oil changes ago and said it wasn’t dark at all — looked like it had been replaced.

Still planning on doing a drain and fill soon though (car is at 129k miles). Also need to throw some new tires on it since the ones on there are already 5 years old. Loving it so far.

I own Subaru Outback 2018 with Gold Plus warranty extension 100kmiles / 10 years /0 deductible.

I bring that to dealership because of some strange noise. It was 99k miles on odometer.

Dealership after diagnostics told me that the issue is with "STARTUP NOISE IS DUE TO LACK OF OIL PRESSURE TO CAM GEARS

AND CHAIN TENSIONERS, GOES AWAY AFTER OIL PRESSURE BUILDS

UP, NORMAL. DURING IDLE OR WHEN DRIVING CAN HEAR SLIGHT TICK

FROM VALVE TRAIN. REC VALVE ADJUSTMENT ON BOTH HEADS'

I raised this to headquarters. Answer - please bring car to different dealership. I'm in rural area, and drip to another one will be at least 2 hours.

After I picked up the car, I got different interesting email from Subaru:

"Please understand that at this stage as the vehicle has no active warranties or coverages, you'll be responsible for any repair costs, including the diagnostic fee. The diagnostic fee is a fee charged by the retailer to inspect your vehicle. Subaru is unable to waive this fee. I know this might be disappointing to hear. Our retailer partners would be happy to review and see exactly why you are having the issue you are and recommend the proper repair. "

They admit in writing that Valve, that according to the book https://www.subaru.com/content/dam/subaru/downloads/pdf/brochures/added-security/Subaru_Added_Security.pdf should be covered, it did not cover and the issue is not a dealership, but the inability to support claim under the active warranty and they dropped it without cause.

Subaru rep refused to escalate, move to different rep, or do something else at all.

Dealership points to Subaru.

Any ideas?

The dealership consistently tries to push repairs on my 2018 outback. The most recent case was yesterday. I went in for an oil change; they recommended I replace the rear brake pad, which was at 4mm.

That same afternoon, I went to a local Cassidy location to get my wheels aligned after getting new tyres at Costco. They said my rear brake pad was 8mm and was fine.

I don't know if my Subaru dealer is sloppy or just a bunch of frauds, but I learned that I'll always get a second opinion from somewhere else whenever they recommend anything during oil changes. Maybe I'm naive and equated my positive perception of the car's quality (which I love) with that of the Subaru dealership.

Got these at autozone for free when I got my oil, anyone know if this is a good cleaner? If not what’s a good brand anyone can recommend
Car is a 2016 Subaru legacy

New 2027 crosstrek wilderness tidepool teal just came into our lot this morning

Hi guys, so to cut to the chase, I know very little about cars and have been in desperate need for a car and am nervous about buying one without having some feedback from people who are more knowledgeable than I.

This is a Subaru Forrester 2012 2.5 sport 4d
It has 160,000 miles on it
Owners price is $3000

I’m desperate and yes make fun of me all you want in the comments, I’m just new to all this

Thank you guys! ⛵️

I recently replaced my front wheel bearings with BCA brand assemblies. The passenger side bearing immediately started making noise. I replaced it again with another BCA, and now that one is howling too.

I have a new Subaru CV axle on that side, so I know that’s not to blame. I torqued the axle nut to 162 ft-lbs.

I’m at a loss, and obviously frustrated. What am I missing? It’s a 2012 Legacy with 220,000 miles.

I'm taking over a 2023 Subaru Forrester from a family member next month, and I'm starting to look at any improvements I can make.

One thing I've never liked about Subaru's is the keyfob. I feel like it's not intuitive, and you can't differentiate buttons by feel.

A quick look at key fob replacements on Amazon all duplicate the standard Subaru key fob style.

So I just wanted to see if anyone has been able to upgrade their fob to a different style

​

Negative clamp on Forester battery terminal is not seating correctly. Have to jumpstart the car every time.

Can I replace the actual clamping component (circled in red) without replacing the entire negative terminal assembly (which includes the expensive sensor part?) The full assembly is about $150.

Original 2003 wheel bearing.

Wish me luck....

After replacing the Torque Converter Pressure Control Solenoid a little over 18 months ago, I'm once again getting a P2763 code. At first it was just the code with the transmission seeming to perform normally, but now it seems the solenoid has completely failed and the TC is "slipping".

While I knew premature failure was always a possibility given Dorman's poor QC, I'm still planning to do the same repair again, given that even including a the cost of second repair it's 1/3 the cost of a new valve body.

Is there any reason you can think of why I shouldn't just go the same route again? Is Dorman still the best/only source for the TC pressure control solenoid? I've also come across suggestions to replace the other solenoids and the AWD solenoid at the same time. Given the Dorman HIGH failure rate, and the LOW failure rate of the other solenoids (not the TC Pressure Control), I'm not inclined to fix anything that isn't broken. If reliable AWD solenoids are obtainable though, I'd entertain doing that this time around, though.

Thanks!

2023 impreza premium

Sometimes, when I brake, some humming noise comes. I even asked the mechanic while going for regular service. He said breakpads are ok and no obvious noise source.

Anyone else observed similar and found the root cause?

I am attaching audio clip in comment.

Great situation to be in...

Been running the prodrive GC05 for the last few winters. Love that wheel, but it's getting some corrosion and needs refurb to protect.

Q: Do i a) throw the old dirty legacy wheels on with the new tires

b) do a down and dirty respray on the Speedlines in gold or silver?

c) basic resto to protect on the prodrives .

Have about 3 weeks to make it happen. My wife will drive this car this winter, she likes potholes so I'm veering towards the legacy wheels or the heavy ass Speedlines. Please vote

I'm in the market for a reliable, easy to work on, commuter car.

I live in the mountain west and my commute will definitely see some snow/ice on the roads as I drive through some canyons. So, Subaru's AWD system while still getting decent mpg is very appealing to me. I've been eyeballing an EJ251 or EJ253 engine paired with a manual transmission (anything 2006-2011?). I enjoy wrenching on my cars and like to think I'm a capable diy youtube mechanic. I've done all my own maintenance and repairs the last 10 years on my Toyota trucks, but they've never really been engine related. From the little research I've done, I've read that the EJ25 engines are pretty easy to pull? Would I be in over my head if I wanted to tackle an engine rebuild on one of these? Full or partial rebuild. I'm thinking I find a Subaru with a blown head gasket (otherwise in good condition), pull the engine, send the heads to a machine shop, upgrade the head gasket, and take care of any other peace of mind maintenance stuff while the engine is out.

The way I'm currently looking it, this would be a passion project that I spend a few weekends/evenings on and when it's finished I'll have a reliable commuter car that will last me another 200k miles.

Am I delusional?

It started fine, car was all warmed up but when I went to put it in drive the gear shift was locked somehow? I had to turn the car off and then turn it back on to actually drive. Is that normal? Why can't I just put it in drive while it's already running? (Yes, my foot was on the brake)