I did the same exact procedure on both headlight. alcohol clean first, sanded 400-600-100-1500-2000, polished with a microfiber polish pad, and then clear coated.

My friends keep making fun of me driving a V70. I think it's really cool and fun to drive, can some people agree with me that Volvo is awesome???

Some of their R models are really surprisingly quick! And, the 850r exists

Car over heated after running out of coolant. Pulled over and couldn’t get car to start again video of trying to get it started. Any ideas what it might be?

I keep a portable lithium jump starter in the trunk because it feels like a simple bit of emergency insurance, but winter makes me wonder how much maintenance people actually do. A pack can show some charge and still be less useful after sitting through cold weeks, and I know I am not great about checking gear once it disappears under the cargo floor. For people who rely on one, do you bring it inside during cold snaps, top it off every month or two, or test it before a long drive? I am trying to set a routine before the first dead-battery morning makes the decision for me.

Happens when i use my windshield wipers (everywhere, all across the glass), even with washer fluid. Any idea what the problem could be?

What is going on most likely? My guess it’s either the auxiliary cord or my stereo. I don’t know. It was playing fine earlier today, but in the middle of a song it just all of a sudden just stopped taking in sound from my phone. My phone kept going on a song as the timer was continuing on the song, but there was no sound going through the speakers anymore. The phone was plugged in and everything, but there was no longer any sound going through the speakers. I even tested my phone with some earphones, and those earphones with my phone work just fine. My phone and my car and the auxiliary cord would work together very well all the time up until now. I don’t know what’s going on. I was listening to music, then at random all of a sudden silence. Now it’s not working.

Inside rim got bent. It’s a 2026 Kia K4 GT Line. The Dealership said they could fix it for $270. Shouldn’t I just buy a new rim rather than fix the bent one? Especially being a new car? Thank you for any help! I think if you click on main body the pictures I attached may show up. TL/DR Is this a viable repair?

Ok very specific issue for me in my 2014 STI, it started recently. I've only had my check engine light flicker on one time and it was only for like 2 brief seconds but basically the situation is this:

In any gear that isn't 4th I have good compression and throttle response. However, as of recently anytime I press the gas pedal kinda halfway in, in 4th gear, at 4k RPM, the car doesn't accelerate and my revs don't go up.

Now I have tried to replicate the check engine light but I could not do it and I also don't wanna blow an engine on purpose. I can kinda feel it though, when I hit 4K the car doesn't really move and the revs don't go up, I swear maybe even the car shudders a bit but this is definitely not normal, can't be.

I've heard misfires can be common especially with this engine but this is weird to me because so far I have consistently pinky felt that drop in power in 4th at 4K rpm with the pedal halfway down. I even tried flooring it in 4th from 3K to 6K rom and no issues.

Maybe there's just a drop in power at 4th that a tune could work out? Or is there a bigger issue here that needs to be addressed immediately?

Also: leak down and compression tests were well within margin of error as about 2 months ago.

Alao: for some reason, I was in the intelligent knob setting and when I got the CEL, the car switched itself to sport. Bad battery maybe?

TLDR: Potentially misfiring a cylinder specifically ONLY in 4th at 4K rpm with the pedal halfway to the floor. Got a CEL once, cannot replicate though. I stop trying to replicate it when I feel the car about to/is Potentially misfiring.

I don’t know, but I think my car has a hemi tick. Can y’all let me know 😭

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Hey everyone,

I'm considering buying a 2013 Ford Edge Limited with the 3.5L V6 engine and around 200,000 km. The asking price is $6,000 CAD.

The seller mentioned that the rear differential seal has a small leak. I'm planning to negotiate the price down because of this issue. As far as I know, the leak is minor, but I'll definitely get a pre-purchase inspection before making a decision.

I'm looking for a reliable daily driver that I can keep for several years without spending a fortune on repairs. I don't mind doing some maintenance, but I'd like to avoid major unexpected expenses.

A few questions:

- Is the 3.5L V6 generally reliable at this mileage?

- How reliable is the automatic transmission?

- How expensive can a rear differential seal leak become if left unrepaired?

- Are there any common problems I should watch out for, especially with the water pump and timing chain?

- Is this a reasonable purchase if the inspection comes back good and I negotiate a lower price?

Would you buy one at this mileage and price, or would you look for something else?

I'd appreciate any advice, especially from people who own or have worked on these vehicles. Thanks!

I saw a post looking for identification of a thing in a car and the consensus was that it was a KARR thing.

I recently bought a newer used car from a Lithia dealer and noticed I have one of these devices.
Is it like Lojack? If I have the thing, do I have the service? Can I cut it out? I went to the KARR website and there's only a login, not a new account. No place to search my VIN.

What are the pros and cons here?

Having this issue with the hood of my Suzuki Swift. I know red paint can oxidize leading to dulling. Only have this issue on the hood; the rest of the body panels are fine. I have taken it to a couple of detailers to try to get it buffed out. However, currently it looks like this.

Is this something that I can fix myself? Or will I have to get it repainted?

Any tips are much appreciated!

Hello, noticed on my way to work that my engine sounds different. Everything seems to work and shift properly, but something feels off. Drove from Johnson city to Memphis this morning and it seemed the noise got worse the closer I got to Memphis. It’s a 2020 Impreza manual with 145k miles.

Was quoted $4500 . Is that reasonable?

I have had my manual, FWD hot hatch since new and it will be 20 years old soon. Early on, I spent thousands on mods early on - coilovers, exhaust, bigger turbo, big brake kit, LSD, and more. It's the car that I learned everything on and installed almost everything myself. Because of all the travel I did for work all the time, it barely has any miles on it. A few years ago, I bought a Toyota truck as a daily and as a second car, which I really enjoyed for its versatility for our winters here. And, it only needed oil changes and prop shaft lubrication. No drama.

But, since I no longer commute to work or travel for work, most of my driving is now done on the weekends when I work my second job where I drive 3 to 4 hours a day.

My car is still in mint condition, no rust, no mechanical issues, but things here and there are starting to need work. It needs new coilovers, the sagging headliner fixed, and the A/C fixed. The repairs would cost around 6K because of the high end coilovers that I refuse to compromise on. However, it made me realize that these same coilovers would cost exactly the same on a more modern and more capable car if I were to spend that type of money (or just to spend the money towards a new car). The thing I value most in a car are its driving dynamics first. The other realization is that this FWD platform won't benefit from any more power or handling upgrades.

Lately, I wondered if it made sense to consolidate both cars for something newer that I could drive daily. But also, the beauty of having two cars makes it easy to have a weekend car that is purely impractical too, such as a real sports car instead of a hot hatch if I decide to sell my hot hatch. In that case, I have been considering an 86/BRZ with a manual for an honest, amazing handling, analog, rear wheel drive experience.

What would you do?

2016 MK VII 1.4 TSI Golf on a cold engine

Cold engine on a MK VII 2016 Golf 1.4 TSI

I was wondering if such a setup exists specifically for older cars that didn't have anti lag tech.

Need some help; I bought a 2020 Toyota Yaris from Stevenson Toyota, in April 1921, it had 400 miles. It is common for me to go to the eight days without driving my car. I replaced the battery three months ago, the terminals, etc. Last week I came out after three days of my car sitting and it would not start. No response whatsoever from the engine, which requires the brake to be pressed to start. The only activity was the key icon and the door open icon on the dash. Tried two different battery, pack, starters, and two different volt meters to test the battery, including the cold, crank amps. No go. Towed it into Toyota, and they quoted me $435 to diagnose the problem – two hours of diagnostic labor. The next day, the car was in the shop, but sat for three or four days until the appropriate tech got back. Once he was there, they performed a diagnostic and said that there was a missing fuse, and were confused about how it could go missing. I said it was the fuze that served for the brake pedal to light up the tail lights, which relay a message back to the ignition so that it could start. Despite the problem happening for multiple tries, and multiple delay delays before Toyota popped open the ignition panel, they said this was the fix, and replaced that fuse.

When I picked up the car, I was told the battery was dead, and they had to jumpstart it to bring it around. The technician tried to spin a story about how common it is for batteries to drain and go dead. If left sitting for as little as three days, which I knew was BS. I’ve done about that for years, my family and I’ve had many Toyotas, and I’ve literally never heard of that. Unless the battery has a parasitic drain of some sort, that would never happen. And again, battery was tested.

I drove the Toyota home from the dealership, made sure the battery was charged for 25 minutes before turning off the car. Three days later, I went to start the car again, and it’s the same problem. Between the battery drain story, Toyota not knowing my battery was dead until I arrived to pick it up, and the $219 diagnostic/$130 tow bill, I do not have confidence in Stevenson Toyota to properly fix this.

Does anyone know if this could be an ignition or electrical problem? My key fob also does not respond to lock/unlock the doors, though the two dash lights tell me there is connection and power from the battery. Any input would help, including whether or not, I should go somewhere else to have the problem diagnosed.

Thanks to all!

The ol good classic nail in the tire. I put in my spare tire for now but is this too close to the sidewall? Is this an easy patch job or would I need to buy new tire?

A few days ago, the check engine light came on in my 2006 Civic with about 230k miles on it. Along with this, the D (Drive) indicator light began flashing. i use my car for work and could not immediately stop driving for the day, but after the car was turned off and back on again, the D indicator remained solid (though the engine light stayed on). About 25 minutes later, the D light began flashing again.

After returning home, i stopped driving the car and was able to use a loaner for a couple days while i researched the issue. From what i'm seeing, the flashing Drive light indicates a problem with the transmission. i just had the car serviced in August and they had indicated nothing wrong with the transmission fluid, but i checked it myself (after driving the car for 20 minutes to warm it up) just in case and can see it's full but a dark-brown color, indicating it probably needs to be replaced. Interestingly, the check engine light turned off after i checked the fluid level, and it didn't come back on after driving for another 15 minutes or so.

There are no other symptoms that i'm concerned about - no lurching or late shifting, no grinding or unusual noise coming from the engine. i'm thinking i can just get the fluid drained and replaced, but the mechanic i called can't get me in for about a week.

my question is, how concerned should i be about driving the car until i can get the fluid replaced? Is it something where driving it could risk destroying the transmission, or an i safe to use it for work over the next few days until i can get the fluid change done? i'd rather not have to try and arrange another loaner car if i can avoid it.

hi there! kind of a bizarre situation, but I own a 2012 toyota camry, and somehow the line that connects from the front of my car to the trunk rusted and broke… so the release lever does not work, and i cannot open my trunk.

was changing out my license plate bulbs yesterday and realized that the little “trunk escape” lever (that’s definitely NOT what that’s called, but ANYWAYS) does work though!

so after 5+ years of not being able to open my trunk, i am intrigued to see if there is something i can buy that would be able to pull that lever… say maybe from pushing a button? or something?

and before you ask! YES! i have taken it to multiple mechanics who all have stressed how time consuming and expensive it would be to run a new line from the front to the back.

i know NOTHING about cars, but i just wanted to see what y’all thought? please be nice! i am not looking to fight! i’m normal hahah

THANK YOU