Is it just me, or has there been a significant increase in YouTube content creators featuring Leica cameras? I have no doubt about Leica’s quality, heritage, or the professionals who genuinely choose to use the red dot. However, it does feel as though the brand has become somewhat oversaturated in the camera community lately. I’m curious whether others have noticed the same trend.

So me (20F) am doing a brand design for a company I’ve never really took pictures professionally for anything… and I got my camera the Sony a6100 with the kit lens only like a month ago for my birthday. I’m so inexperienced and now I’m just supposed to take pictures. I’ve used the camera before ofc and I kinda get it.

This is all over a school project btw.

Any tips for taking pictures for a company for booklets, websites and posters ? Like camera settings

And maybe any tips for nervousness hahah

EDIT: The pictures came out amazing other than the men being rlly creepy and making uncomfortable jokes everything went good. Thanks for the tips :)))

I am a beginner in photography (I’ve done 3 shoots). I’m currently building a portfolio by photographing some friends, but I intend to pursue photography professionally. Do you have any tips on how to improve or what I should change? Also, how can I go about finding my own style?

Hi everyone!

I'm looking to buy a mirrorless camera. I've been shooting with a Canon EOS 7D for 15 years, and I'm honestly so tired of how heavy it is to carry around.

Over the past three weeks, I've been trying to go down the rabbit hole by watching YouTube videos, Googling, talking to ChatGPT and searching and asking questions in various forums and groups.

I'm looking for a small, lightweight camera that's fun to take with me and shoot with.

I've considered full-frame, but I feel that APS-C might be a better fit since photography is currently just a hobby for me and I don't do any paid work.

However, I'd like to work professionally in the future, and I plan to buy a full-frame camera then. For now, I need to improve both my photography skills and my Photoshop editing skills.

I enjoy photographing a bit of everything, including landscapes, close-ups of plants and flowers, my dogs, indoor scenes, people, portraits, and some studio photography. I rarely shoot video.

So I'm looking for a solid all-around camera.

I've been looking at various cameras, mainly from Fujifilm but also Sony.

I think I'd like to stick with one of these brands because of the wide range of third-party lenses available.

Some cameras I've been considering are the Sony A6700 and the Fujifilm X-T50 (I absolutely love the look of the latter!).

My budget is around 2,250 dollars for the camera body and at least two lenses.

However, I'm wondering whether I really need to spend that much on a camera body. I'd rather put more of my budget towards lenses. I'm planning to buy used gear from places like MPB.

My questions:

1. How important is IBIS?

As I mentioned, I rarely shoot video, so I'll mainly be using the camera for photography. Is it better to have IBIS in the camera body, or would it be better to go without it and buy lenses with optical image stabilization instead?

1. Articulating screens.

I've been considering a fully articulating screen because I shoot a lot in portrait orientation. Or is a tilting screen that flips up enough?

1. Lenses.

I mostly shoot with my 60mm f/2.8, but I think I need a zoom lens (I've been looking at the Sigma 18–50mm f/2.8 DC DN Contemporary, for example), a fast prime lens (I've been considering the Fujifilm XF 56mm f/1.2 R APD), and possibly a pancake lens as well (such as the Sony E 20mm f/2.8).

I'd prefer lenses that are on the lighter side, but I understand that might be difficult to achieve given that I'm also interested in wider apertures.

1. Weather sealing.

So far, I've managed to avoid shooting in the rain, but I've been wondering whether weather sealing is also particularly useful for protecting against dust.

1. Buying used vs. new.

Would it be smarter to buy the camera body new, or is buying used perfectly fine as long as you know the shutter count? Are there any other things I should look out for when buying a used camera body?

1. Photo editing monitor.

I currently have an ASUS laptop, and I don't think its screen can display the full range of colours needed for photo editing. So I'm considering buying an external monitor. Does anyone have any recommendations?

1. Computer specs and Photoshop.

I asked ChatGPT whether my computer could handle Photoshop. Unfortunately, I don't know much about computers, so I'd appreciate some advice from anyone who knows more about this stuff!

I use my laptop for photo editing and playing The Sims 3. Here are the specs:

• Laptop: ASUS VivoBook X421EA

• CPU: Intel Core i5-1135G7 (11th generation, 2.40 GHz)

• RAM: 16 GB

• GPU: Intel Iris Xe Graphics (integrated graphics)

• Storage: 477 GB total, with approximately 120 GB free

• Operating system: 64-bit Windows

Thanks in advance for any advice! I'm feeling a little overwhelmed by all the options, so I'd really appreciate hearing about your experiences and recommendations.

Consider the focal length, f-number, and entrance pupil diameter of a camera. Assume that each of these can take on only one of two values: "large" or "small." Do you agree that only half of all possible scenarios are optically realistic—that is, physically possible? Among these potential cases, which combination (focal length, entrance pupil diameter, f-number) do you prefer? Which one would you choose if your goal were to maximize the observable detail in a scene

Hey everyone!

I recently got my Sony FX5 and I've noticed some really strange autofocus behavior when using the shutter button with Single Shot AF (AF-S).

So far, I've experienced this issue with my Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG DN Art (Version I). I haven't confirmed whether it happens with other lenses yet.

Here's what's happening:

When the camera is in AF mode:

Autofocus works normally, but as soon as I press and hold the shutter button, the camera loses focus and starts moving the focus toward either the minimum focusing distance or infinity, completely throwing my subject out of focus.

When the camera is in MF mode:

Focus stays fixed, as expected. However, when I press and hold the shutter button, the camera temporarily activates autofocus and correctly focuses on my selected subject.

But here's the weird part: immediately after achieving focus, while I'm still holding the button, the camera starts shifting focus again, either toward the closest focusing distance or infinity.

So basically, the camera successfully acquires focus but then immediately loses it and drives the lens toward one of its focusing extremes.

Now, here's what makes this even more frustrating:

When I use the Push AF / Push MF function instead, everything works perfectly. The camera focuses correctly without randomly shifting focus toward the extremes.

The problem is that, as far as I can tell, the shutter button can only be assigned to "Single Shot AF (AF-S)", not "Push AF / Push MF".

Because of this, I had to assign Push AF / Push MF to another custom button just to have a reliable way to activate autofocus manually.

This basically makes the shutter button useless for its most obvious focusing function, which is pretty frustrating.

Has anyone else experienced this behavior with the Sony FX5, especially when using the Sigma 24-70mm Art Version I?

Is this a firmware bug, a lens compatibility issue, a limitation of how Single Shot AF works, or am I missing some setting?

I find it strange that Push AF / Push MF works perfectly while Single Shot AF behaves so unpredictably.

I'd really appreciate hearing from other FX5 owners to see if this is a common issue or something specific to my camera and lens combination.

Thanks!

My very first camera was Canon T3i around 2010s for my graduation gift. It was great at the time, especially for someone like me who's an amateur photographer.

I finally saved up and just got Fuji xs20 this year and it's a whole different beast.

People say body doesn't matter and I agree to a certain point, but after comparing rebel and xs20, I feel like body does matter to a degree.

I'm still not a professional so correct me if I'm wrong & I do still feel like if you know how to shoot well on one camera, you'll probably know how to shoot a good shot on another.

But when does the camera body matter? or does it not?

I'm a hobbyist photographer and dad just wanting to take photos of my family. Not planning to use my photos commercially so the price on the offerings feels excessive. Would anyone be open to sharing?

Getting into photography as a hobby that might become more. I want to shoot food (restaurants/cookbooks), boudoir, and everyday travel. Budget is up to $2K, but I can’t stop thinking about the Fuji X100VI. What should I consider instead, or is it the right call?

Hello guys,

I am trying to get a grasp of Canon R5mk2 as my first high megapixel camera after coming from R6mk2 - 45 Mpx vs 24.2 Mpx

This is example of what am I dealing with - attached image is 1/1000, f/9, +2 2/3 and ISO 3200 as stated in title.

I saw some reviews before and the ISO 3200 should be ok, so to me my photo looks a bit noisy to my taste. Is that normal? And if not, what did I messed up?

Also, is there a way to save image like this without AI denoise? I tried in DxO and the Standard hardly did something and AI denoise makes the image look like AI generated.

Thank you very much for help.

I am NOT a pro photographer. However I still end up doing a ton of 'photo work', from weddings to concerts to corporate stuff, that sort of thing. I do maybe 3 gigs a month, which I think is fair for someone that has a full time job. This has been going on for about the last three years.

Thing is, I only have one camera (and one lens) that I use for everything and this got me thinking that perhaps I need to up my game and get a second camera body as backup. Possibly one or two other lenses. I dunno.

I'm curious how the pro guys go about this. Having a spare makes sense but since I have absolutely no contact to other photographers in my area (not for lack of trying) this seems like the best place to ask. Is it really necessary? Do any of you have only one camera?

Hi there everyone,

I just recently started getting into photography (around the start of september) with a used D3300 with a 18-200mm lens. Its still extremely capable, don't get me wrong, but it's starting to feel time run its course. As the title says, what would be some good mirrorless cameras to upgrade to?

((1) Budget, country, and currency: I don't really have a budget set but likely around $500-700, maybe $750 max (w/ a lens). I'm in the US (USD)

(2) What equipment, if any, you have now and why is it no longer meeting your needs? As I said earlier, i have a D3300 with a 18-200mm f/3.5. Its mainly just getting a bit old and was an entry level camera so its age is creeping in.

(3) What kinds of subjects do you intend to shoot? I still haven't really figured out what I want to do yet but from what I've done so far, wildlife, street, and maybe some landscape

(4) Is it primarily for photography, videography, or both? I'd be doing photography like 95% of the time probably. I don't care about the video really. 1080p is my only standard for that.

That's about all I have to say. If anyone would have any questions or would like to see a few pictures for any reason, ask and I'll do what I can (that goes for about all questions).

EDIT: Should mention that this would be for when I do upgrade. Not right now. This would all be a good bit down the line. I'm just asking now to see a standard to put money away for.

I usually process using Rawtherapee on my computer but im using lightroom mobile (premium) until my PC is sorted again.

When I export on RT, the file sizss are 20-35mb but on lightroom mobile, they export to 5mb roughly.

Is there a setting I may be missing or is it the shear processing power differences?

I have been trawling reddit before found some posts on hacking old cameras using AI. Today, I came across Tony N's video on Youtube discussing the same thing. I wont share the link as im not sure i am allowed, and dont want to promote content.

I was just interested/curious to know peoples views on it, i.e supportive or not and whether this is a good thing to have long term?

As a PC gamer, i am enjoying the boom in AI being able to convert old video games into Virtual Reality (VR). I am excited to see the same thing where old cameras can come back to life, especially the ones that turn DSLRs into film cameras by hacking software to enable film simulations (like Fuji has).

But there is also a risk that Camera manufacturers get very strict on how they design their software for new cameras going forward. Either way is this a healthy place? They would shoot themselves in the foot i.e making old cameras more attractive on the used market and at the same time disincentivize new sales. The process itself could damage the camera industry if things are becoming more software (rather than hardware) restricted.

Hi! I keep going around in circles with conflicting information about this. I’m looking for a brighter light for beauty videos and photography. I place my models 1m/2m away from the wall, but the light still feels quite dim and diffused.

I currently use a NEEWER NL288 panel at 45° and a small NEEWER 176 as a key light. I’m considering a NEEWER or Godox COB light and a beauty dish as the key light and a Neewer panel to the side as a fill light, but is there anything brighter for around $200 max?

Photos 1-2 are what I’d like to achieve, photos 3-4 are taken on my Canon r50, photo 5 is on my iPhone.

I got into photoghraphy less than a month ago and im thinking of freelancing, im building a portfolio currently and since i shoot on a nikon d3100 i sometimes have to take leaps in order to "save" my pictures, so i ask can i build my portfolio over these?

Is there a go-to place to find the technical specs of camera sensors used in different smartphone models? I would love to find technical reports or papers breaking down more of the physical hardware behind them.
The physical specs seem to be deeply buried in marketing jumbos which throw around established terms in photography like pixels and focal lengths callously. Like, take the Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra, for example, which can take photos at 12 MP, 50 MP, and 200 MP depending on the selected lens. Does each lens have a separate sensor to accommodate different MP specs? Do they share one sensor and then use different computational/algorithmic processes, including pxiel binning, to scale up or scale down to resolution of the final output?

Hey everyone,

I did a Halloween shoot on Sunday. I just wrapped up editing and have SO MANY good photos that I don’t know what to do. The content is 4 surfers in pumpkinhead masks, wearing black wetsuits going surfing. Shot at golden hour into the night for blue hour. Full moon. Insane stuff. Im stoked.

I don’t know if I should post 1 long carousel on Instagram day before Halloween, or split it into 4 posts with 5-8 images per post. I can either tell the whole story in 1 post, or have 4 chapters starting tomorrow. I’m really excited to share and want the best possible reaction.

Anyone here a social media content strategist?

I worked really hard on this and just want it to hit right.

Thanks!

Im currently traveling for a few weeks.

I’m in place that I probably will never come to again in my life and lighting has just been so shit these days, only endless grayness and flatness.

Im trying to work my best with it, but it can see so disappointing.

There are some lucky moments, when I was at the base of the mountain and the skies finally cleared before the last gondola, but the mountain was clouded for the full day

Found this guy selling his Nikon gear. D7000 + Nikkor 50 mm 1.8 + Nikkor 24-70 2.8 + Sigma 18-200 3.5-6.3. Everything looks in good shape, but the lenses are taken by fungus. Any chance these could be cleaned without damaging the coating? I'm afraid to buy, get it cleaned but have them in poor condition afterwards.

Does anyone know where I can find an online course that teaches how to create portraits like the attached photo?

Hi, I'm fairly new to strobes and would like to be able to take photos similar to these.

What kind of light modifiers would I need?

Also I'd appreciate any technical tips such as light positioning etc.

Would I need to eliminate all ambient light by stopping down?

Thanks in advance