I bought this Durst C35 for 40$, the seller was a bit dumb and didnt secure the light bulb before shipping, so it broke and he bought a replacement (Last photo) obv it will work for BW but I am unsure if it will work for color prints.

Appart from re-placing the original lamp, the screw to change the height of the head doesnt work. So I would also have to fix that.

Is this a steal or am I waisting my money? I can still get my money back.

Do tell me if you guys want more photos or have any questions, conditionwise it seems ok. Lens is Neotar 50mm f2.8 to f.16, (f16 lets barely any light trough but apparently thats normal)

i am planing to develop my own slides at home and wanted to know what brands i should get. im thinking of getting the fpp e6 kit (with there c41 kit)

preferably any kit that does not have a blix if possible, not required; its so i can try bleach bypass on e6. i do live in the usa as a shipping factory.

going to develop Ektachrome and cross process aerocolor iv.

any and all recommendations will be greatly appreciated

I love it so much already ❤️

Still gettin the hang of it

Quick question: is it reasonable that Portra 400 needs one stop more light than Kodak Gold200?

Or could the reason be that I might have exposed the Portra +1 Stop? Not sure but I sometimes do that and I never write things down. Probably should start doing that.

Good morning.

Almost everything I read, mostly from photographers, recommends reducing developing time by 10-15%.

Yet when I read Kodaks sheet for Tri-X 400 both hand inversion and rotary processing are Inversion 3 3/4 minutes and 3 3/4 minutes for rotary. While the Massive Dev Chart comes out to 5:06 minutes. (6:00 minus 15% for rotary. Kodak HC-110 1+31 (B) 20C (see attached)

Can someone please confirm that it’s always the data sheet that always needs to be followed and only some films need the reduction or am I reading this data sheet incorrectly Thank you.

Hey, I underexposed some film and I have trouble to print it with an enlarger. They are a bit faded and I try to find some ways to add contrast (or some lights in some parts).
I tried hydrogen peroxyde but I find it a lot bluish eaventhough I should consider correcting it (not so easy to work with it and it requires to use much more dev chems.
I heard of a second development after the bleach but in Europe most of the chems are without a separate bleach and fix baths. I am a bit lost, would have some advise and other recommendations?

I'm taking a class in B&W photography and I got this gnarly double exposure at the end of my film. I had not realized that my film had 24 rolls and not the usual 36 I am used to. I heard the crunch of the film each time and I thought it got jammed but still worked.

What are some other methods to get this kind of image (without destroying my camera). Is it more effective to dodge the image in printing over other images? Maybe either take individual slides and layer them onto each other or in the printing process, do the same idea but dodge.

I'm going to be doing a research project on double exposure so any cool info would be appreciated!

Good day.

The attached photos were taken recently with two individual cameras. An XPan and a Leica M6 using Tri-X pushed to ISO 800 and developed as ISO 800 per the massive dev chart with an adjustment of subtracting 10% for rotary processing.

Now this processor is brand new, out of the box.

Why are they so muddy looking and soft? The majority of both rolls are like this and I can believe that I missed focus on a majority of them.

Any suggestions folks? Thank you.

Only visible from certain angles. It appears to be something with the emulsion. My negatives look mostly fine otherwise. They have been coming out this way for a long time and through many batches of chemistry. I’m pulling out my hair trying to figure out what’s wrong.

Fresh Ilford Delta 100
Fresh Ilford DDX 1-4 @ 68F for 8.5 mins
Kodak indicator stop for 1 minute
Kodak powder fix for 3 minutes
Wash with sink water
Sprint standard Hypoclear for 3 minutes
Distilled water rinse
Fresh Kodak photo Flo 200

Thanks

Hey everyone, I super new to reddit. I am a current student at Stockton, and I am taking a photography class. I absolutely love the class, and I have a project due. I wanted to know if anyone has any information on, or personal experience with pin hole cameras? If you do could you post your work? Thank you all !!!

I've been trying to get clean negatives since i started 10 rolls ago, i tried using the suggested 1:200 photo-flo in distilled water for 30 seconds after washing the film with no success.

Rewashing the film by reloading it in the reels and putting it in 1:1000 photo-flo to distilled water and leaving it soaked for 20 mins and agitating for the last minute still left stripes on the negatives.

Still haven't had clean film, what do you guys usually do?

Got the full darkroom set about a month ago for a good price. Along with a big chunk of old ilford paper.
Wanted to share some results :)
Still learning!

At first I thought it was faulty/exhausted developer but I kept it in there for like over 10 minutes!? Why are the edges yellow!?

Back in the 80’s when I was a news photographer I stumbled upon a super high-speed developer called Ethol 90. I remember that the 90 reflected the 90 second development time, and IIRC that was for an effective ISO of 3200 with Tri-X. It came as a powder in metal cans like Acufine did but the label was bright orange.

We always kept a quart mixed for film that came in really close to deadline. The grain wasn’t as bad as you might expect. It appears to have gone the way of the dodo now.

So I forgot to change from 3200 to 400 when I changed film so I completely underexposed a roll of Rollei RPX 400. Can't believe I made a mistake like that :((( Any tips for developing it? Is it even possible?

Nikon f5 28-70 2.8

Tmx 400 @ 1600

I have a 120 roll of Provia which was expired in 2020 but was stored in the fridge since I bought it in 2019. I don’t really have any experience with expired slide film, so are there any tips for shooting and developing it? I will develop it using the ADOX E6 kit

Hello 👋,

I just got the scans back from my first ever self developed roll. The process itself was very fun, I definitely made some mistakes but I think I fared pretty well.

So here’s the issue, as I was hanging the film to dry, I noticed some of the negatives had a lighter streak going through the top of them. In the scans, it’s more of a dark streak, I assume from inverting the image or something like that. So what went wrong exactly? I have two theories myself:

1. The loading process. Now i struggled with this. I loaded the film in a closed off room, but it was a battle. Even in the dark, I could tell that the film roll wasn’t entirely on the spool, so I kept having to unwind. Maybe the chemicals weren’t able to fully wash over the roll of film?

2. I did notice that when I was in that dark room, there was a small, streak of light that was peaking through the door frame. So maybe that light hit the unexposed roll?

Anyways, I’m looking forward to developing another roll. This is fun.

Been busy this summer. These were taken in Manitoba (Whiteshell Provincial Park) and Alberta (Banff NP) with a Mamia C330. So far just contact prints. Some lessons:

1. Get that tripod as straight as you can. I didn't do this for the Banff shots and it really shows. You can't "wing it"!

2. I have a ball head and I got it as level as possible at home before I left to do the second series. Your home is nice and flat compared to the outdoors!

3. I didn't realize that the C330 viewfinder is not a 100% representation of the film area. I just assumed it would be. Now I have a lot of overlap!

So if you enjoy frustration, wasting film, disappointment, leveling your tripod, guesswork, and maybe a reward, then try this out! I'll update once I have enlarged.

Is Oriental still being manufactured? Is anyone printing with it still?

The day before yesterday, I went out to pick up a great deal found on Marketplace.

For some time now I wanted to upgrade my Darkroom gear but found it was a costly journey. Then decided to forget about it and keep using what I already had.

But life granted me the opportunity to do it without breaking my pockets, so got all of this for $200, everything is basically new condition and the person added some stuff for free (It was from his father).

I will keep everything stored as it came until we move to a bigger place since I am planning to place two of my enlargers next to each other.

What do you think; was a great deal?

So I have one of these that I use in school. What are those dials for? I was reading that the bottom one is for either ilford paper or Kodak? I use it to print black and white and I usual have them both set to 3. How do you use them? I mostly use ilford paper

Why is this happening? My last three prints have come out with a yellow dye (image and border alike). I prepared chemistry for this session and the results were consistant. I thought maybe it could be cross contamination so I made a small batch enough for two prints and then, same issue.
I’ve attached one of the earlier prints which didn’t have this problem. It was done a few days before with a different batch of working solution. I’m processing at 75 F. Ilford Cibachrome Drum 11x14
Omega C760
F/11
5 sec
0 C - 75 M - 80 Y
Arista RA4
Fujicolor Crystal Archive Matte (expired in 2023) but I ruled it out since my previous prints never had this yellow dye issue.