Subarus aren’t unreliable, people just don’t take good care of them. The previous owner bought it new and drove not only a lot of highway miles but a lot of city miles too (between upstate NY to NYC). Always changed the oil on time. Not sure what has been replaced on the car, but we do know it’s the original engine and transmission.

Previous owner replaced it with a new Outback!

It was, however, not a comment on the way I drive.

Thought y'all would appreciate this Outback we just completed at our shop!

I own Subaru Outback 2018 with Gold Plus warranty extension 100kmiles / 10 years /0 deductible.

I bring that to dealership because of some strange noise. It was 99k miles on odometer.

Dealership after diagnostics told me that the issue is with "STARTUP NOISE IS DUE TO LACK OF OIL PRESSURE TO CAM GEARS

AND CHAIN TENSIONERS, GOES AWAY AFTER OIL PRESSURE BUILDS

UP, NORMAL. DURING IDLE OR WHEN DRIVING CAN HEAR SLIGHT TICK

FROM VALVE TRAIN. REC VALVE ADJUSTMENT ON BOTH HEADS'

I raised this to headquarters. Answer - please bring car to different dealership. I'm in rural area, and drip to another one will be at least 2 hours.

After I picked up the car, I got different interesting email from Subaru:

"Please understand that at this stage as the vehicle has no active warranties or coverages, you'll be responsible for any repair costs, including the diagnostic fee. The diagnostic fee is a fee charged by the retailer to inspect your vehicle. Subaru is unable to waive this fee. I know this might be disappointing to hear. Our retailer partners would be happy to review and see exactly why you are having the issue you are and recommend the proper repair. "

They admit in writing that Valve, that according to the book https://www.subaru.com/content/dam/subaru/downloads/pdf/brochures/added-security/Subaru_Added_Security.pdf should be covered, it did not cover and the issue is not a dealership, but the inability to support claim under the active warranty and they dropped it without cause.

Subaru rep refused to escalate, move to different rep, or do something else at all.

Dealership points to Subaru.

Any ideas?

The dealership consistently tries to push repairs on my 2018 outback. The most recent case was yesterday. I went in for an oil change; they recommended I replace the rear brake pad, which was at 4mm.

That same afternoon, I went to a local Cassidy location to get my wheels aligned after getting new tyres at Costco. They said my rear brake pad was 8mm and was fine.

I don't know if my Subaru dealer is sloppy or just a bunch of frauds, but I learned that I'll always get a second opinion from somewhere else whenever they recommend anything during oil changes. Maybe I'm naive and equated my positive perception of the car's quality (which I love) with that of the Subaru dealership.

My first Subaru. 3.6R.

Happy to finally be part of the family.

I will be honest, this thing is pretty darn quick. Previous owner already had a remote start installed, lighter Sport Tuning rims, a CVT tune, white logos, and a slight tint on the front windows. I've had it for 9 months now: mods I’ve done so far:

• Stage 2 Takeda intake
• MAF upgrade
• Cleaned the throttle body
• New spark plugs + PCV valve
• New Serpentine belt and pulley

A dyno test shows it’s making around 265 hp at the crank now with premium gas — right around stock WRX numbers. 0-60 is in the low 6s if I put it in manual mode and kill traction control.

The CVT tune by xrt (previous guy said he did a stage 1, which I believe is really the only thing out there for this car model; mods are hard for this, ngl) really wakes it up too.

Response is sharper and it actually hangs near redline longer instead of doing those fake shift bumps that drop you back down.

Not sure how old the CVT fluid is. A mechanic checked it two oil changes ago and said it wasn’t dark at all — looked like it had been replaced.

Still planning on doing a drain and fill soon though (car is at 129k miles). Also need to throw some new tires on it since the ones on there are already 5 years old. Loving it so far.

I made this flyer and have been passing it around town.

I’m trying to organize a community event in Georgia. I know there’s a Subie Crew around GA / AL that has events in ATL but I’m not affiliated with them. I’d love to join or collaborate if possible though.

DM me if you can make it and I’ll send you the QR code! I’d love to have everyone there.

I'm taking over a 2023 Subaru Forrester from a family member next month, and I'm starting to look at any improvements I can make.

One thing I've never liked about Subaru's is the keyfob. I feel like it's not intuitive, and you can't differentiate buttons by feel.

A quick look at key fob replacements on Amazon all duplicate the standard Subaru key fob style.

So I just wanted to see if anyone has been able to upgrade their fob to a different style

Got these at autozone for free when I got my oil, anyone know if this is a good cleaner? If not what’s a good brand anyone can recommend
Car is a 2016 Subaru legacy

Hi guys, so to cut to the chase, I know very little about cars and have been in desperate need for a car and am nervous about buying one without having some feedback from people who are more knowledgeable than I.

This is a Subaru Forrester 2012 2.5 sport 4d
It has 160,000 miles on it
Owners price is $3000

I’m desperate and yes make fun of me all you want in the comments, I’m just new to all this

Thank you guys! ⛵️

I recently replaced my front wheel bearings with BCA brand assemblies. The passenger side bearing immediately started making noise. I replaced it again with another BCA, and now that one is howling too.

I have a new Subaru CV axle on that side, so I know that’s not to blame. I torqued the axle nut to 162 ft-lbs.

I’m at a loss, and obviously frustrated. What am I missing? It’s a 2012 Legacy with 220,000 miles.

It started fine, car was all warmed up but when I went to put it in drive the gear shift was locked somehow? I had to turn the car off and then turn it back on to actually drive. Is that normal? Why can't I just put it in drive while it's already running? (Yes, my foot was on the brake)

Hey everyone, I’m coming up on my 120,000-mile service on my 2017 Subaru Legacy and wanted to double-check my maintenance list with the community. My goal is to keep this car running reliably up to 250,000 miles.

​What I’m already planning to do:

​Spark Plugs: Having the shop handle these.

​CVT Drain & Fill: Getting another one done. (Got my first one done at 90k after learning the hard way that "lifetime fluid" isn't actually lifetime).

​Cabin & Engine Air Filters: DIYing these myself to save on labor.

​(Oil change was done recently, so I'm good there for now).

​Questions for the sub:

1.​PCV Valve: I’ve read online that doing a PCV valve replacement is a good preventative move around this mileage. Is that recommended to do alongside the plugs/service?

1. ​Front & Rear Differential Fluids: Should I go ahead and add a front/rear diff fluid swap to this visit as well?

​Anything else? Is there any other essential maintenance or wear item I should address at 120k to maximize long-term engine and drivetrain life?

​Appreciate any advice or feedback!

After replacing the Torque Converter Pressure Control Solenoid a little over 18 months ago, I'm once again getting a P2763 code. At first it was just the code with the transmission seeming to perform normally, but now it seems the solenoid has completely failed and the TC is "slipping".

While I knew premature failure was always a possibility given Dorman's poor QC, I'm still planning to do the same repair again, given that even including a the cost of second repair it's 1/3 the cost of a new valve body.

Is there any reason you can think of why I shouldn't just go the same route again? Is Dorman still the best/only source for the TC pressure control solenoid? I've also come across suggestions to replace the other solenoids and the AWD solenoid at the same time. Given the Dorman HIGH failure rate, and the LOW failure rate of the other solenoids (not the TC Pressure Control), I'm not inclined to fix anything that isn't broken. If reliable AWD solenoids are obtainable though, I'd entertain doing that this time around, though.

Thanks!

I'm in the market for a reliable, easy to work on, commuter car.

I live in the mountain west and my commute will definitely see some snow/ice on the roads as I drive through some canyons. So, Subaru's AWD system while still getting decent mpg is very appealing to me. I've been eyeballing an EJ251 or EJ253 engine paired with a manual transmission (anything 2006-2011?). I enjoy wrenching on my cars and like to think I'm a capable diy youtube mechanic. I've done all my own maintenance and repairs the last 10 years on my Toyota trucks, but they've never really been engine related. From the little research I've done, I've read that the EJ25 engines are pretty easy to pull? Would I be in over my head if I wanted to tackle an engine rebuild on one of these? Full or partial rebuild. I'm thinking I find a Subaru with a blown head gasket (otherwise in good condition), pull the engine, send the heads to a machine shop, upgrade the head gasket, and take care of any other peace of mind maintenance stuff while the engine is out.

The way I'm currently looking it, this would be a passion project that I spend a few weekends/evenings on and when it's finished I'll have a reliable commuter car that will last me another 200k miles.

Am I delusional?

2023 impreza premium

Sometimes, when I brake, some humming noise comes. I even asked the mechanic while going for regular service. He said breakpads are ok and no obvious noise source.

Anyone else observed similar and found the root cause?

I am attaching audio clip in comment.

2015 subaru crosstrek. Auto start with aftermarket or turn key start, headlights, beams fogs and brakes when applied all work. Tail lights? Nope. But if you hit them- then they’ll turn on and stay on. Wiring looks fine, ground looks good inside back side panel to trunk. Bulbs are ok. Is my car just haunted

I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza, 105k miles w CVT that I've had for a few months now. Today when I was driving to work I noticed the hill start assist light was coming on and off, it would flicker at seemingly random times and then go off and come back on again. It didn't seem to be driving funny or anything, but I was driving in the city with a light every 2 feet so I didn't get to push it at all. It's just the hill assist light, no other dash lights or codes that I could see when I used my scan tool. Does anyone know what can cause this? I want to address it in case it's anything bad and if it's something relatively easy to DIY (like a wheel speed sensorbor brake fluid) it'd be nice lol. Thanks!

​

Negative clamp on Forester battery terminal is not seating correctly. Have to jumpstart the car every time.

Can I replace the actual clamping component (circled in red) without replacing the entire negative terminal assembly (which includes the expensive sensor part?) The full assembly is about $150.

I’ve seen a lot of comments about how terrible the wireless charger is and I’m noticing it for myself too. Anyone have any recs on a case that helped the situation? iPhone 16pro and I think the case I have with the extra coverage on the lenses might be causing some of the problem. It connects then disconnects constantly. If I’m going to buy a new one thought I would at least check in to see if there was a recommendation from someone?

2026 Impreza RS if that makes any difference

Pic attached is the part in photo the same for 5 speed and 6 speed
(2002 WRX)

I’m having a issue where my shifter is on the piss after a 6 speed swap
After further investigation and pulling off the shift linkage assembly again it look like I have fit everything correctly.
I did reuse the holder on the shaft from the 5 speed and am now wondering if that part is different for the 6 speed

Hey everyone,

I have a 2018 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premier with push-button start and the factory key fob. I’m looking to add remote start and came across this plug-and-play module from Remote Start X:

https://remotestartx.com/2018-subaru-outback-push-to-start-remote-starter/

Before purchasing it, I wanted to see if anyone here has experience with this module or has installed something similar on their Outback.

My understanding is that the factory key fob might support remote start using a specific button combination, but I’m not entirely sure whether my trim already has the necessary hardware. I also couldn’t find any obvious indication of a factory remote start system near the front windshield.

Ideally, I’m looking for a plug-and-play module that I can install in the car and use with my existing factory key fob, without having to carry an additional remote or install a completely separate system.

A few questions:
- Has anyone used the Remote Start X module linked above?
- Will it work with a Canadian 2018 Outback 2.5i Premier with push-button start?
- Can I use my existing key fob to start the car remotely, or would I need a different fob?
- Are there any better plug-and-play alternatives you would recommend?

I’d appreciate any advice or firsthand experience before I spend money on a module that might not be compatible.

Thanks!

Bought a Legacy from 2013 this August and I am experiencing stalling issues when coming to a complete stop, not always but sometimes. Also I am noticing that when the engine is hot, it takes a really long crank for the car to run.

Does anyone experienced this or is familiar with the issues and know what it is and what it would cost to fix?

(I used to be a mechanic in The Netherlands before coming to the US this July so I can fix stuff whatever is possible on the street.)

2013 Legacy, 2.5i CVT 116500mi

Already replaced CVT oil, spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body

Ps: If you know any good Subaru specialists in the Boston area please let me know :)

Thanks in advance !

The pinned post asks for year, model and DTC scan results, so plenty of you already keep an ELM327 OBD2 adapter in the glovebox. Before the first cold morning, the same adapter can tell you three more things, with any OBD2 app that shows voltage and coolant temperature.

1. Battery at rest. Let the car sit for a few hours, then key on with the engine off, lights and blower off. 12.6 V or more is a full battery, about 12.4 V is only partly charged, and below 12.0 V one cold morning can be enough to leave you stuck. The reading from the OBD port is a few tenths of a volt below what a multimeter shows on the battery posts, so compare readings taken the same way.

2. The dip while cranking. Log the voltage while the starter turns and look at the lowest number. Staying above about 9.6 V is healthy; under 8.5 V a no-start is likely. Write it down on a few cold mornings: if it keeps sliding at similar temperatures, the battery is on its way out before it actually strands you.

3. Warm-up and the thermostat. Many Subarus only have the blue cold light instead of a temperature gauge, and that light goes out before the engine is fully warm, so a thermostat stuck open is easy to miss. Watch coolant temperature instead: if it still isn't at normal operating temperature after ten minutes of steady driving, the thermostat is the usual suspect. A lukewarm heater and slightly worse mileage tend to come with it.

If you end up posting here about a slow start or a car that never warms up, put your year, model and engine with the readings and any codes, as the pinned post asks. It gets you useful answers much faster.

What's on your pre-winter checklist for your Subaru?