Hi Guys,

TAPR manufactured my WSPR module for years, first the schematic now the whole PCB is free, converted from Eagle to Kicad with my Eagle-Exhumer plugin (also free).

https://github.com/ha7dcd/QRPi_WSPR_PCB
https://github.com/z2labs/eagle-exhumer

73,
ha7dcd
Zoltan

I received my latest order from QRP Labs today and just wanted to give them a shout out.

I purchased one of their ultimate relay LPF kits that I plan on using with BPF, several BPF modules, a couple of LPF modules, and a 10W linear amplifier kit. Everything arrived quickly and well packaged.

It's always a pleasure doing business with them, and I am looking forward to beginning assembly this weekend.

Just when you thought a cheap, analog, Chinese walkie-talkie wouldn't be able to handle TETRA...

More details: https://m17project.org/2026/10/27/an-unmodified-c62-can-not-decode-tetra-or-can-it

Just posting for discussion. Why do some operators get upset or offended when they receive a signal report that is not 5-9? Had someone asking for a radio check this morning. Sounded so over modulated that I hardly understood the radio check part. Nice strong signal but could not understand a word they said so I gave them the report and never heard back. I’ve heard others get upset when someone says that their mic doesn’t sound right. If I was not sounding good, I would want to know about it so I can fix the problem.

I've worked a fair few DX now on both SSB and more so CW, they're some really proper DX done with a mediocre antenna with mediocre power, 100 watts. I'd like to collect some physical cards.

Now of course I'm in Australia and those DX stations are mostly in the states, some in Asia. And generally you want to enclose SASE of some sort of return postage.

However small denomination USD is impossible to get and IRC is long gone, as well as Australia Post not happy with anything of monetary value in letters, it's very much impossible to SASE.

The international postage here for a card is already quite high at 3.5 dollars, international letter to the states is 4.25 dollars, I simply cannot afford sending a lot of cards and expect some to come back.

None of the stations I worked explicitly said they want postage paid, but through my research it's good etiquette and is expected.

It's quite a bit of dilemma I'm in and would like everyone's opinions on this matter.

I'm a newish ham, so I want to install a VHF/UHF amateur radio in my car for funsies.

I'm on a SAR team, so I want to install a 50W Part 90 radio to increase transmission range over my HT on call-outs and at training.

I'm on the West Coast, so I want to install a GMRS and CB for when the Cascadia earthquake happens.

I drive in rural areas a lot, so I want to install a cell signal booster.

Aaaand suddenly we're talking about four radios in the cockpit and five antennas sticking out the roof of my midsize station wagon. The vibe would be rather "tin foil hat."

MARS mods for this purpose are, of course, illegal.

I *could* program both SAR frequencies and amateur frequencies into a Part 90-certified radio at the expense of FPP functionality (which I can live with). That gets me down to four antennas, which is still a bit more schizoid than I'm looking for. Is abandoning GMRS or CB the move? Should I choose one over the other if my use of that service would be pure disaster prep?

How do you solve this problem?

Hey everyone, can anyone recommend an antenna that they have had good luck with on a 2M/70cm base station antenna? I have an old Kenwood 711 and have been using an Elk Antenna, but would like to try something different

Hi everyone,
I’m considering buying a used Icom IC-7300. I’ve never bought a second-hand transceiver before, and I’ve never used an IC-7300, so I’d really appreciate your advice.
What should I check when inspecting and testing the radio? Are there any known issues or weak points specific to the IC-7300 that I should pay special attention to?
I’m especially interested in how to check the receiver, preamps, transmitter output power, internal antenna tuner, touchscreen, and USB connection. If I can inspect it in person, what tests would you recommend? If it has to be shipped, what should I ask the seller to demonstrate or send photos or videos of?
If I buy it in person, I plan to bring my own power supply, antenna, and 50-ohm dummy load. I’d use the dummy load to check the transmitter and the antenna to test reception and the preamps. Would that be enough for a basic check?
What should I ask the seller about the radio’s age, repairs, modifications, and included accessories? Is there anything buyers often forget to check?
If you’ve bought a used IC-7300 or another transceiver, I’d be grateful if you shared your experience and anything you wish you had checked beforehand.
Thanks in advance!

Saw them pop up from a google search for a rig.

Looking around and not seeing a whole lot of comments about them. Only taking Zelle and ApplePay first red flag.

Found a "review" site that makes it look legit with reviews going back awhile.

However looking at the domain name registration, it looks to be brand new - created Sept 2026.

Decided to post and ask the question as it might save someone else if they are a scam.

Just recently picked up a Kenwood Viking VP8000 and I've been playing around with it for a bit. So far, I'm really impressed with this radio! 😂

Curious how everyone else's VP8000 has been treating them. What are you guys running these days? Any cool setups, programming tips, Armada tricks, or features worth trying out?

Mine is pretty much fully loaded feature-wise (I'll attach my feature list). Just looking to see what other owners are doing with theirs and maybe learn a few new things.

Would love to hear what setups everyone is running!

I have an Icom IC-7410 and I love it. However, I would like to get on some other bands with a transverter. My rig has no transverter output, and some people say turning the power knob all the way down may not be perfectly safe. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to hook one up?

I have not begun to shop for transverters, so I don’t have any specific one in mind.

I have a tech license and since this still works I would love to use it some how…

Managed to lock Radio Romania International’s DRM transmission from Tiganesti on 9720 kHz (31 m) around 1700 UTC. Using the MLite-880 with just the whip / portable setup (couldn’t get the outdoor wire or loop up).
SNR was sitting around 8, symbol sync ~80–83%, AAC 11.6k QAM16. Audio was coming in and out but definitely decoding. Frequency offset was about –90 Hz.
Path: Tiganesti, Romania to south of Boston / FN41, ~4,250 miles.
Anyone else catching this one today?

Im interest to get my license and live in Québec, is there an way to make my exam online "alone" or it's only in person or with a zoom call with the examinator? Thanks!

Hey everyone! I’m a new ham (licensed for about four months), and I’m looking for some advice on a high SWR problem with my first mobile radio installation.
My setup:
Radio: Yaesu FTM-3165
Antenna mount: Comet CP-5NMO
Antenna: Larsen NMOQSPECB
Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra

I’m getting an SWR reading of approximately 3:1 across the entire 2m band, from 144 to 148 MHz. Simplex is 3.5:1. I initially wondered if the antenna length was the problem, as this is one of those trim antennas but I thought the SWR might be lower toward one end of the band rather than remaining around 3:1 throughout so I’m not sure if that assumption is correct.

I’ve checked the coax connections and confirmed they’re secure. The mount is clamped to the metal hood, with a rubber piece between the mount and the hood to avoid making permanent modifications. The hood is painted, and I haven’t removed any paint. I’m wondering whether the mount has an adequate ground plane or whether the paint and rubber are affecting its performance.

My reception has been phenomenal. Way better than my Baofeng UV-5R. I’ve been able to hear repeaters around 20 miles away, although I understand that good reception doesn’t necessarily mean everything is right with my antenna system.
This installation took me about six hours, and I have practically no technical experience with mobile radio installations. This is my first time doing something like this, so I’m learning as I go!

Unfortunately, I don’t have many opportunities to ask other hams for help in person. My local club meets when I’m working, and the people I talk to over the air are the only other hams I really know.
I’d really appreciate any advice or insight from more experienced operators. I’m trying to learn how this all works. I included a video of my setup and if any of my post violates the rules please let me know. Thank you.

I used AI to help write and organize this post because I have a brain injury that makes it difficult for me to organize my thoughts and express them in writing. The details and questions are my own; I just needed some help putting everything together.
Thanks in advance for your help!

my setup video

Could you tell me which would be better: the Quansheng UV-K5(8) running Armel firmware or the Quansheng UV-K1 Mini Kong also running Armel 5.9.0?

I’m using a bladeRF 2.0 micro A9 and recently I’ve been facing random FPGA loading issues.Sometimes the FPGA loads perfectly fine, but other times I get these errors:
dev->backend->load_fpga failed: File or device I/O failure
Failed to switch to NULL interface
The strange thing is that I’ve successfully loaded FPGA images multiple times using the same laptop and USB cable before. I’m using Windows 11. Could this be due to insufficient USB power from my laptop, or is there something else I should check?
I’m also considering programming through JTAG to see if that helps. Has anyone faced a similar issue?

Hello! I looked and am struggling to find the answer to this question, so I thought I’d just ask.

A while back I built a 2-core 4:1 balun for use in a 40m OCFD. I used 240-31 ferrite cores with 12 turns on each. I essentially used this guide: http://www.m0pzt.com/blog/4to1-current-balun/ . I have it in a project box with two mounting posts on one side and an SO-239 on the other.

I am no longer using the OCFD, and am wanting to try out a Rybakov, which requires an Unun instead of a Balun. Rather than make or buy a whole new thing, is it possible to convert the balun I have to an unun? Am I crazy to think it’s as simple as putting a hookup wire from the terminal where I’ll be connecting the radials to the ground of the coax connector? Is that really the only difference?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, I am still relatively new to all of this!

Is there any difference between buying a Chelegance JPC-12 vs the standard generic you would see on Amazon? Same antenna? I build antennas and buy some here and there. Would like to play around with a smaller vertical. Thanks

Has anyone installed an antenna on the front driver side fender of a Honda pilot?

I have searched DX and Comet and do not find any for Honda.

If you did, what bracket did you use.

I want to mount a 6m (20') GRP pole with outside diameter 50mm (2") and wall thickness 2mm (5/64") to a brick wall. Can I just clamp it in a U-bolt style clamp (see link) as I would with a metal pole, or will this crush the glass fibre? It's a support for a wire antenna and won't be carrying much vertical load, so I probably wouldn't have to clamp it very tightly. The main purpose of the clamp is to hold the 3.4kg (7.5 lb) weight of the pole and resist side loads from wind and wire tension.

Hi everyone!

I'm looking to buy a used Traquito Jetpack WSPR tracker module, preferably fully assembled and ready to use.

If you have one you'd be willing to sell, or know someone who does, please send me a message with the price, condition, and shipping options.

I'm located in Croatia, so international shipping is welcome.

Thanks in advance!