Just posting for discussion. Why do some operators get upset or offended when they receive a signal report that is not 5-9? Had someone asking for a radio check this morning. Sounded so over modulated that I hardly understood the radio check part. Nice strong signal but could not understand a word they said so I gave them the report and never heard back. I’ve heard others get upset when someone says that their mic doesn’t sound right. If I was not sounding good, I would want to know about it so I can fix the problem.

Managed to lock Radio Romania International’s DRM transmission from Tiganesti on 9720 kHz (31 m) around 1700 UTC. Using the MLite-880 with just the whip / portable setup (couldn’t get the outdoor wire or loop up).
SNR was sitting around 8, symbol sync ~80–83%, AAC 11.6k QAM16. Audio was coming in and out but definitely decoding. Frequency offset was about –90 Hz.
Path: Tiganesti, Romania to south of Boston / FN41, ~4,250 miles.
Anyone else catching this one today?

I have a tech license and since this still works I would love to use it some how…

Images link : https://ibb.co/album/tw3wtv

Video link : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BbiiZYW8BAONctWgL5EW7gkCsqKfZnyp/view?usp=drivesdk

This is a senao sn555, super long range cordless telephone.,it was in the attic for a long time , I didn't find any manual or even anything about this model on the internet ,maybe it so old , it was sold in the middle east , says made in taiwan ,the handdset itself had this battery with its cover worn off,I tried to put it on a charger ,the device lights up the blue indicator light up left ,then I hear a chime ,then nothing ,tried a lithium nokia battery ,and. Nothing ,I opened the board ,I didn't see anything wrong ,I'm not an expert in electronics, please help,also, I tested continuity mode on multimeter on the area marked on photo using multimeter ,some showed continuity, others didn't, I think this means there is a short

Note: tried to make the video as steady as possible, I'm recording from a tablet

Note 2: Serial written on device and base : NF452980

Just recently picked up a Kenwood Viking VP8000 and I've been playing around with it for a bit. So far, I'm really impressed with this radio! 😂

Curious how everyone else's VP8000 has been treating them. What are you guys running these days? Any cool setups, programming tips, Armada tricks, or features worth trying out?

Mine is pretty much fully loaded feature-wise (I'll attach my feature list). Just looking to see what other owners are doing with theirs and maybe learn a few new things.

Would love to hear what setups everyone is running!

I'm a newish ham, so I want to install a VHF/UHF amateur radio in my car for funsies.

I'm on a SAR team, so I want to install a 50W Part 90 radio to increase transmission range over my HT on call-outs and at training.

I'm on the West Coast, so I want to install a GMRS and CB for when the Cascadia earthquake happens.

I drive in rural areas a lot, so I want to install a cell signal booster.

Aaaand suddenly we're talking about four radios in the cockpit and five antennas sticking out the roof of my midsize station wagon. The vibe would be rather "tin foil hat."

MARS mods for this purpose are, of course, illegal.

I *could* program both SAR frequencies and amateur frequencies into a Part 90-certified radio at the expense of FPP functionality (which I can live with). That gets me down to four antennas, which is still a bit more schizoid than I'm looking for. Is abandoning GMRS or CB the move? Should I choose one over the other if my use of that service would be pure disaster prep?

How do you solve this problem?

Could you tell me which would be better: the Quansheng UV-K5(8) running Armel firmware or the Quansheng UV-K1 Mini Kong also running Armel 5.9.0?

I’m using a bladeRF 2.0 micro A9 and recently I’ve been facing random FPGA loading issues.Sometimes the FPGA loads perfectly fine, but other times I get these errors:
dev->backend->load_fpga failed: File or device I/O failure
Failed to switch to NULL interface
The strange thing is that I’ve successfully loaded FPGA images multiple times using the same laptop and USB cable before. I’m using Windows 11. Could this be due to insufficient USB power from my laptop, or is there something else I should check?
I’m also considering programming through JTAG to see if that helps. Has anyone faced a similar issue?

Im interest to get my license and live in Québec, is there an way to make my exam online "alone" or it's only in person or with a zoom call with the examinator? Thanks!

Is the so called unlock method for the UV Pro real or just a bunch of hype?

antenna I found online 24 ii dollars au vot antenna the specs are 1000 watt output 2. big traps halfway up. 2 pole mounts 21 foot high. all Freq o.5 MHz pretynned up to 56khz. matched with a xaigu. g90 20 watt output into a xaigu 120 watt o to 50 khz linear amplifier

Just when you thought a cheap, analog, Chinese walkie-talkie wouldn't be able to handle TETRA...

More details: https://m17project.org/2026/10/27/an-unmodified-c62-can-not-decode-tetra-or-can-it

Hi everyone,
I’m considering buying a used Icom IC-7300. I’ve never bought a second-hand transceiver before, and I’ve never used an IC-7300, so I’d really appreciate your advice.
What should I check when inspecting and testing the radio? Are there any known issues or weak points specific to the IC-7300 that I should pay special attention to?
I’m especially interested in how to check the receiver, preamps, transmitter output power, internal antenna tuner, touchscreen, and USB connection. If I can inspect it in person, what tests would you recommend? If it has to be shipped, what should I ask the seller to demonstrate or send photos or videos of?
If I buy it in person, I plan to bring my own power supply, antenna, and 50-ohm dummy load. I’d use the dummy load to check the transmitter and the antenna to test reception and the preamps. Would that be enough for a basic check?
What should I ask the seller about the radio’s age, repairs, modifications, and included accessories? Is there anything buyers often forget to check?
If you’ve bought a used IC-7300 or another transceiver, I’d be grateful if you shared your experience and anything you wish you had checked beforehand.
Thanks in advance!

Hi Guys,

TAPR manufactured my WSPR module for years, first the schematic now the whole PCB is free, converted from Eagle to Kicad with my Eagle-Exhumer plugin (also free).

https://github.com/ha7dcd/QRPi_WSPR_PCB
https://github.com/z2labs/eagle-exhumer

73,
ha7dcd
Zoltan

I received my latest order from QRP Labs today and just wanted to give them a shout out.

I purchased one of their ultimate relay LPF kits that I plan on using with BPF, several BPF modules, a couple of LPF modules, and a 10W linear amplifier kit. Everything arrived quickly and well packaged.

It's always a pleasure doing business with them, and I am looking forward to beginning assembly this weekend.

Is there any difference between buying a Chelegance JPC-12 vs the standard generic you would see on Amazon? Same antenna? I build antennas and buy some here and there. Would like to play around with a smaller vertical. Thanks

Hi everyone!

I'm looking to buy a used Traquito Jetpack WSPR tracker module, preferably fully assembled and ready to use.

If you have one you'd be willing to sell, or know someone who does, please send me a message with the price, condition, and shipping options.

I'm located in Croatia, so international shipping is welcome.

Thanks in advance!

I've worked a fair few DX now on both SSB and more so CW, they're some really proper DX done with a mediocre antenna with mediocre power, 100 watts. I'd like to collect some physical cards.

Now of course I'm in Australia and those DX stations are mostly in the states, some in Asia. And generally you want to enclose SASE of some sort of return postage.

However small denomination USD is impossible to get and IRC is long gone, as well as Australia Post not happy with anything of monetary value in letters, it's very much impossible to SASE.

The international postage here for a card is already quite high at 3.5 dollars, international letter to the states is 4.25 dollars, I simply cannot afford sending a lot of cards and expect some to come back.

None of the stations I worked explicitly said they want postage paid, but through my research it's good etiquette and is expected.

It's quite a bit of dilemma I'm in and would like everyone's opinions on this matter.

Saw them pop up from a google search for a rig.

Looking around and not seeing a whole lot of comments about them. Only taking Zelle and ApplePay first red flag.

Found a "review" site that makes it look legit with reviews going back awhile.

However looking at the domain name registration, it looks to be brand new - created Sept 2026.

Decided to post and ask the question as it might save someone else if they are a scam.

I have an Icom IC-7410 and I love it. However, I would like to get on some other bands with a transverter. My rig has no transverter output, and some people say turning the power knob all the way down may not be perfectly safe. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to hook one up?

I have not begun to shop for transverters, so I don’t have any specific one in mind.

Hello! I looked and am struggling to find the answer to this question, so I thought I’d just ask.

A while back I built a 2-core 4:1 balun for use in a 40m OCFD. I used 240-31 ferrite cores with 12 turns on each. I essentially used this guide: http://www.m0pzt.com/blog/4to1-current-balun/ . I have it in a project box with two mounting posts on one side and an SO-239 on the other.

I am no longer using the OCFD, and am wanting to try out a Rybakov, which requires an Unun instead of a Balun. Rather than make or buy a whole new thing, is it possible to convert the balun I have to an unun? Am I crazy to think it’s as simple as putting a hookup wire from the terminal where I’ll be connecting the radials to the ground of the coax connector? Is that really the only difference?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, I am still relatively new to all of this!