Hey everyone, I’m coming up on my 120,000-mile service on my 2017 Subaru Legacy and wanted to double-check my maintenance list with the community. My goal is to keep this car running reliably up to 250,000 miles.

​What I’m already planning to do:

​Spark Plugs: Having the shop handle these.

​CVT Drain & Fill: Getting another one done. (Got my first one done at 90k after learning the hard way that "lifetime fluid" isn't actually lifetime).

​Cabin & Engine Air Filters: DIYing these myself to save on labor.

​(Oil change was done recently, so I'm good there for now).

​Questions for the sub:

1.​PCV Valve: I’ve read online that doing a PCV valve replacement is a good preventative move around this mileage. Is that recommended to do alongside the plugs/service?

1. ​Front & Rear Differential Fluids: Should I go ahead and add a front/rear diff fluid swap to this visit as well?

​Anything else? Is there any other essential maintenance or wear item I should address at 120k to maximize long-term engine and drivetrain life?

​Appreciate any advice or feedback!

To preface this, I have a 26 Impreza RS I bought new back in April. About a month ago, I was driving to work on an open, EMPTY, country road. I was the one and only person on the entire road when my eyesight system activated stating "obstacle detected". Figured it was just a hiccup and went to work. Later that afternoon, while driving again it did it again. So I took it in to get checked out the next day, and the service team told me "There are no errors logged with your eyesight system, and it sometimes throws up that alert for poor visibility". Leaving that service appointment I called SoA to open a case about this. They notified me to take it back to the service center. I took it back, showed them how frequently the system activates while just maintaining a specific distance from the car in front of you, only to be told again "there are no errors with your cameras, and everything is working as it should".

This last time it activated, it brought me to an instant halt from 45mph, stopping me in the middle of the road. Called SoA, and they told me to bring it back to the service center. So I did, but this time, on top of being told "There's no errors and the eyesight is working as intended" they also tried telling me that "We don't even see the braking event logged at 12:45pm. We see 8:30am, 10:40am, and 2:30pm. Are you sure you provided us with the correct time?" So I called SoA back wondering how to proceed with this, since apparently all these false activations aren't considered an issue and now my car isn't even logging the eyesight activations, when the rep replied "What do you mean its not logging them? I see the service technicians notes here about your 12:45 eyesight activation. He notes that this is normal eyesight behavior".

I just don't know how to proceed or even get this resolved. SoA is going off what the service department gave them, but thats turning out to all be fabricated stories. I feel like the next thing to happen is the eyesight system is going to activate and cause a collision, and land me in the hospital and my car in the junkyard.

The service department is DEMANDING the loaner back tonight (10/27) since "There's absolutely no errors being produced and nothing wrong with your car"

I’ve seen a lot of comments about how terrible the wireless charger is and I’m noticing it for myself too. Anyone have any recs on a case that helped the situation? iPhone 16pro and I think the case I have with the extra coverage on the lenses might be causing some of the problem. It connects then disconnects constantly. If I’m going to buy a new one thought I would at least check in to see if there was a recommendation from someone?

2026 Impreza RS if that makes any difference

Pic attached is the part in photo the same for 5 speed and 6 speed
(2002 WRX)

I’m having a issue where my shifter is on the piss after a 6 speed swap
After further investigation and pulling off the shift linkage assembly again it look like I have fit everything correctly.
I did reuse the holder on the shaft from the 5 speed and am now wondering if that part is different for the 6 speed

Hey everyone,

I have a 2018 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premier with push-button start and the factory key fob. I’m looking to add remote start and came across this plug-and-play module from Remote Start X:

https://remotestartx.com/2018-subaru-outback-push-to-start-remote-starter/

Before purchasing it, I wanted to see if anyone here has experience with this module or has installed something similar on their Outback.

My understanding is that the factory key fob might support remote start using a specific button combination, but I’m not entirely sure whether my trim already has the necessary hardware. I also couldn’t find any obvious indication of a factory remote start system near the front windshield.

Ideally, I’m looking for a plug-and-play module that I can install in the car and use with my existing factory key fob, without having to carry an additional remote or install a completely separate system.

A few questions:
- Has anyone used the Remote Start X module linked above?
- Will it work with a Canadian 2018 Outback 2.5i Premier with push-button start?
- Can I use my existing key fob to start the car remotely, or would I need a different fob?
- Are there any better plug-and-play alternatives you would recommend?

I’d appreciate any advice or firsthand experience before I spend money on a module that might not be compatible.

Thanks!

Bought a Legacy from 2013 this August and I am experiencing stalling issues when coming to a complete stop, not always but sometimes. Also I am noticing that when the engine is hot, it takes a really long crank for the car to run.

Does anyone experienced this or is familiar with the issues and know what it is and what it would cost to fix?

(I used to be a mechanic in The Netherlands before coming to the US this July so I can fix stuff whatever is possible on the street.)

2013 Legacy, 2.5i CVT 116500mi

Already replaced CVT oil, spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body

Ps: If you know any good Subaru specialists in the Boston area please let me know :)

Thanks in advance !

2015 subaru crosstrek. Auto start with aftermarket or turn key start, headlights, beams fogs and brakes when applied all work. Tail lights? Nope. But if you hit them- then they’ll turn on and stay on. Wiring looks fine, ground looks good inside back side panel to trunk. Bulbs are ok. Is my car just haunted

The pinned post asks for year, model and DTC scan results, so plenty of you already keep an ELM327 OBD2 adapter in the glovebox. Before the first cold morning, the same adapter can tell you three more things, with any OBD2 app that shows voltage and coolant temperature.

1. Battery at rest. Let the car sit for a few hours, then key on with the engine off, lights and blower off. 12.6 V or more is a full battery, about 12.4 V is only partly charged, and below 12.0 V one cold morning can be enough to leave you stuck. The reading from the OBD port is a few tenths of a volt below what a multimeter shows on the battery posts, so compare readings taken the same way.

2. The dip while cranking. Log the voltage while the starter turns and look at the lowest number. Staying above about 9.6 V is healthy; under 8.5 V a no-start is likely. Write it down on a few cold mornings: if it keeps sliding at similar temperatures, the battery is on its way out before it actually strands you.

3. Warm-up and the thermostat. Many Subarus only have the blue cold light instead of a temperature gauge, and that light goes out before the engine is fully warm, so a thermostat stuck open is easy to miss. Watch coolant temperature instead: if it still isn't at normal operating temperature after ten minutes of steady driving, the thermostat is the usual suspect. A lukewarm heater and slightly worse mileage tend to come with it.

If you end up posting here about a slow start or a car that never warms up, put your year, model and engine with the readings and any codes, as the pinned post asks. It gets you useful answers much faster.

What's on your pre-winter checklist for your Subaru?

Shuts off atleast once a week in the same spot on the highway. This time it didnt turn back on and had to be pushed to the roadside. Waiting on tow truck right now. Any guesses as to what it could be? Alternator?

I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza, 105k miles w CVT that I've had for a few months now. Today when I was driving to work I noticed the hill start assist light was coming on and off, it would flicker at seemingly random times and then go off and come back on again. It didn't seem to be driving funny or anything, but I was driving in the city with a light every 2 feet so I didn't get to push it at all. It's just the hill assist light, no other dash lights or codes that I could see when I used my scan tool. Does anyone know what can cause this? I want to address it in case it's anything bad and if it's something relatively easy to DIY (like a wheel speed sensorbor brake fluid) it'd be nice lol. Thanks!

EDIT: Sorry, that should have said SHIFTING PROBLEMS.......I have a 09Tribeca EZ-36 with 5EAT transmission in my RV. When I run for a bit, then stop for 10-30 minutes and resume driving, it sometimes will drop into second with a hard clunk, and sometimes disengages completely while going from 2 to 3. Then the problem goes away for as long as I'm driving. This is happening more frequently as time goes by.

I am using Amsoil ATF they say is correct for this gearbox, and the center diff and rear output are eliminated, so I run only the front drive outlet, to the rear wheels. I'm thinking my valve body may be the culprit here, any ideas??

Sure appreciate the help...

I have a 2017 outback. It was the last year before all new models came with LED car lights

My headlights are getting dim. I replace the bulbs, I have the clear covers cleaned and polished - I cannot compete on the road anymore with all the cars that come with insanely bright LED lights.

Is there any kit or part or replacement to get these bulbs switched to LED? Or some other super bright replacement light?

First time car buyer!!

I'm stuck trying to decide between a 2023 Outback Premium (34k miles, 1 owner, lease) and a 2024 Crosstrek Limited (43k miles, 1 owner, lease) where both are around the same price.

Consumer Reports rates the '24 Crosstrek highly for safety and reliability but notes issues with the '23 Outback in-car electronics (probably the infotainment center) and build quality.

So far, I'm the most nervous about the infotainment center. If the head unit breaks, does that mean I can't control my fan speed? I'm also worried about the glare where I could barely see the screen when I was sitting in the car. Other cars I've driven have had the screen angled toward the driver and I've never had a glare issue. The general iPad angled straight toward the middle is hard to see since I need to sit so close to reach the gas pedal. The infotainment center is a big miss for me but the giant screen might be something I could used to.

I'm coming from a mid-sized sedan so the Crosstrek feels more familiar and the Outback feels massive even if my sedan is actually longer. If I want to carry more things, the Outback makes sense but the Crosstrek is such a cutie patootie size and is big enough to carry a medium amount of stuff.

What are some things I should consider to help me make my decision?? I'm struggling between the funness and high ratings of the Crosstrek and the sturdiness and utility for the Outback.

I would greatly appreciate any advice!

Hi everybody,

I’m taking my doubts to reddit since this has never happened to me. I was parked and the car was idling, out of nowhere the car began to shake harder than usual, and then the check engine light turned on, I turned off the car. I popped the hood off and wanted to record to share with you so I started it again and as you see on the video there was white smoke coming out the engine. I googled it, and it mentioned a list of causes like, bad motor mounts, a misfire, bad spark plugs (changed it twice), leaking coolant or electrical wiring problems due to the shaky engine. I’m getting this serviced on Wednesday, just wanted to know what will be the best course of action if you were me. Thanks for your time reading this.

Weird question…my wife and I have a 2025 Outback Touring XT, and I previously had a Legacy Touring XT. I’ve noticed that the Ascent Touring badge is missing the XT.

Why doesn’t the badge on the Ascent say Touring XT? It’s the same engine… right?

My guess is that because it’s not a high performance option like the Outback & Legacy have, they leave it off.

Just something I’ve noticed and it bugs me lol.

Can somebody please explain WTF a huge puppy has to do with Subaru’s? (And I ask this as a Subaru owner.) Marketing people are so effing stupid.

Hello again, I have a 05 STI and it just pulled a P0021 Code. I checked and swapped the OCV and Camshaft Position Sensor and they are working fine and did not change the code when swapped. My oil is clean and new, banjo bolts filters were removed awhile ago. Car starts up first turn/click, idles fine during cold start, no smoke or oil leaks anywhere (also performed a smoke test and no leaks). I resetted my codes and car drives smooth with no CEL and the code does take a bit to pop up but when it does the car still drives fine but not 100% between gears if that makes sense and the engine will shake a tad more but not excessive. So starting to think maybe its the AVCS and will check timing again but i’m gonna post pictures of current timing marks to see if you guys see anything that looks off. Any other help would be appreciated and if you need additional info let me know.

I hate pumpkin guts hahahaha

I have to bring it inside or else the squirrels will get them overnight

Limited, Onyx and Touring.

We want the 5k tow capacity.

I couldn’t care less about wood trim, or a split moon/sun roof.

Is the front seat leg extension only available on the touring?

Is there any discernible comfort/creature difference between these?

There’s just such a price difference between the three models.

Looking at 2023-2024 models under 40k mileage.

Anything else I need to consider?

Thanks all!

I wanted to share our experience with our Certified Pre-Owned Subaru Ascent and see if anyone else has been through something similar.

When we purchased the Ascent, we were pretty excited about it. We wanted a reliable, comfortable SUV with plenty of room for the family. Subaru seemed like a solid choice, and buying Certified Pre-Owned gave us some extra peace of mind knowing we had the warranty behind it.

Unfortunately, things went downhill pretty quickly.

The First Engine Replacement

Within the first few weeks of ownership, we started having some pretty serious engine problems. The vehicle was running rough, developed engine knocking, and eventually needed major repairs.

What started as a trip to the dealership turned into extensive engine work, including:

- Engine short-block replacement

- Camshaft and cam-carrier repairs

- Cam sprocket replacements

- Cylinder-head work

- Valve adjustments

- Oil-control valve replacement

- Additional internal engine repairs

The vehicle spent more than three months at the dealership during this first major repair.

Obviously, that was frustrating, especially since we'd barely had a chance to enjoy it. But I figured things happen. At least everything was being covered under warranty.

Once we got it back, I was hoping we could finally put the whole experience behind us.

Unfortunately, that wasn't the end of it.

The Hesitation and Power Loss Started

After getting the vehicle back, we began experiencing some strange drivability issues.

During acceleration, particularly around 2,000–3,000 RPM, the vehicle would hesitate, surge, and sometimes feel like it couldn't decide what gear it wanted to be in.

It almost felt like the engine and transmission weren't communicating properly.

Sometimes you'd press the accelerator, and instead of smoothly accelerating, the vehicle would hesitate before finally responding.

Back to the dealership we went.

Over multiple visits, they performed several repairs and diagnostic procedures, including:

- Intake valve carbon cleaning

- PCV valve replacement

- Transmission control module software updates

- Additional engine and transmission diagnostics

- Multiple test drives and data-logging sessions

Unfortunately, none of this permanently resolved the issue.

Then Came the Second Engine Replacement

Eventually, the vehicle went back to the dealership for another extended stay while they worked with Subaru's technical support to determine what was causing the ongoing issues.

This time, the repair process involved:

- Replacement of all four VVT oil-control solenoids

- Electronic throttle-body replacement

- Engine compression testing

- Cylinder leak-down testing

- Fuel-system and exhaust-related diagnostics

- Extensive data collection and communication with Subaru's technical team

- A SECOND ENGINE SHORT-BLOCK REPLACEMENT

Yes, you read that correctly.

Two engine short-block replacements on the same vehicle during our relatively short ownership.

This second major repair resulted in another lengthy stay at the dealership.

And Here's the Part That Really Gets Me

After the second engine replacement and all the additional repairs, we finally got the vehicle back.

I was genuinely hopeful that this would be the end of everything.

We picked it up, started driving, and almost immediately realized something wasn't right.

The exact same hesitation and surging were still there.

After two engine short-block replacements, countless hours of diagnostics, and months at the dealership, the problem was still present on the very first drive.

We immediately turned around and returned it to the dealership.

And as of right now, the vehicle is STILL at the dealership.

Now we're being told that Subaru wants to investigate further, potentially involving another extensive engine teardown.

Over Seven Months Without Our Vehicle

This is probably the part that bothers me the most.

When I started adding up the time from the different service visits, I realized just how much of our ownership experience we've lost.

Our Ascent has been tied up in dealership repairs for over SEVEN MONTHS, and the clock is still running.

That's over seven months of making payments on a vehicle we haven't been able to use.

Over seven months of waiting on repairs, trying to figure out transportation, and hoping the next phone call will finally bring some good news.

And despite all that time, we're still dealing with the exact same problem.

I understand that complicated mechanical issues can take time to diagnose. But after two major engine repairs and multiple unsuccessful attempts to fix the issue, it's getting harder to understand how continuing down the same path is the best solution.

I Do Want to Give the Dealership Credit

One thing I want to make very clear is that our dealership's service department has been fantastic throughout this entire experience.

They've communicated with us, kept us informed, and continued putting in the effort to figure out what's wrong.

I genuinely appreciate the service advisers and technicians who have worked on this vehicle.

I don't believe the lack of a resolution is because they aren't trying.

From what I understand, Subaru of America is heavily involved in directing the diagnostic and repair process, and the dealership is limited in what it can do without the manufacturer's authorization.

That's where most of my frustration comes from.

The Buyback Conversation

There have also been discussions about potentially buying the vehicle back.

However, the approach being discussed sounds more like a traditional trade-in rather than a manufacturer-assisted buyback.

And that's something I'm really struggling with.

I feel like I did everything right as a customer. I bought a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle, and I even purchased Subaru's Gold extended warranty. Yet I still feel like I'm the one being asked to suffer the consequences of a vehicle that has spent more than seven months in the shop.

I've made it clear that I don't want to keep this vehicle, but I am willing to purchase a new Subaru. The frustrating part is that Subaru of America doesn't seem willing to discuss a resolution that would make me whole unless and until the current vehicle is repaired.

We didn't buy this vehicle expecting to replace it shortly afterward.

We bought it because we wanted a dependable family SUV that we could keep for years.

Instead, we've spent more than seven months dealing with major mechanical failures, driving other vehicles, and wondering when ours will actually be fixed.

I understand that vehicles can have problems. I'm also thankful that the warranty has covered the major repairs.

But warranty coverage doesn't make up for months without your vehicle or the frustration of repeatedly dealing with the same unresolved issue.

And I don't think it's unreasonable to question why we should have to take a financial hit on a vehicle that's had this kind of repair history.

Where I'm at Now

At this point, I'm honestly not sure I'd trust the vehicle even if they told me it was finally repaired.

Would you feel comfortable loading your family into an SUV for a long road trip after two major engine replacements and repeated unsuccessful repair attempts?

That's probably my biggest concern.

I actually really like the Ascent when it's working properly. It's comfortable, practical, and has everything we wanted in a family vehicle.

I just wish we could actually enjoy owning it.

I also feel like we're being treated as though this vehicle is a science experiment while Subaru tries to figure out what is wrong. I understand that difficult problems can require extensive testing, but no one can tell us how much longer this process might take or how many more major repairs will be attempted.

A Few Questions for Everyone:

1. Has anyone experienced similar hesitation or surging issues with their Subaru Ascent, especially around 2,000–3,000 RPM?

2. Has anyone had multiple engine short-block replacements on the same Subaru?

3. Has anyone successfully worked with Subaru of America on a manufacturer-assisted buyback?

4. Would you continue allowing major repairs, or would you be pushing for a different resolution?

5. Do you think expecting something better than a normal trade-in is unreasonable in this situation?

I'm not looking to bash Subaru or the dealership. I'm genuinely trying to figure out what a fair resolution looks like.

I understand that sometimes vehicles have problems that are difficult to diagnose. But after two engine replacements, multiple additional repairs, and over seven months without the vehicle, I feel like we've been more than patient.

At what point does Subaru of America acknowledge that the current approach simply isn't working?

I'd really appreciate hearing from anyone who's experienced something similar, especially Subaru technicians or owners who've worked through a buyback situation.

TL;DR: Bought a Certified Pre-Owned Subaru Ascent expecting a dependable family SUV. It's undergone two engine short-block replacements, extensive internal engine repairs, VVT solenoid replacements, throttle-body replacement, transmission software updates, and numerous manufacturer-assisted diagnostic sessions. It's been tied up in repairs for over seven months and counting. The same hesitation and surging were present immediately after the second engine repair, so we returned it right away. It's still at the dealership. The service team has been fantastic, but we're struggling to get a permanent resolution from Subaru of America. I feel like I did everything right as a customer, yet I'm still the one bearing the burden while Subaru continues trying to diagnose the vehicle. Looking for advice on what to do next.

Howdy all,
I’m after some help getting my 2025 Subaru WRX VB RS fob key to beep/chirp when I lock/unlock it.
It was working fine until I took it to a mechanic for a RWC.
When I got it back, it’s no longer working.
I’ve read through all the manuals trying the various recommendations, available options, and steps involved; I’ve watched multiple online videos and YouTube tutorials, but I haven’t had any luck.
The hazard lights still flash when being locked/unlocked, but not any audible chirping/beeping.
I’ve tried and tried to fix it, but I’ve not had any luck!
I’m at my wits’ end, so If there’s anyone out there who can help me fix this, I’d really appreciate it!!

I had the windshield replaced on my Outback last week and my dealer installed remote start antenna needs new adhesive put on it. I want to get the old off first though and I’m wondering if unplugging the unit will cause any problems? I just don’t want to find out the hard way that it would somehow mess with the programming. Especially right before winter. Thanks!