the cheaper the better i am poor but something that still reads all the codes. doesnt necessarily need to be able to reset or log them

My 2015 Lexus IS300H hybrid battery is starting to die (a little bit after the 11 years mark...)...
I got the first code (P0A80) a few months ago, my dealer told me that I will probably need to replace it soon, but as it was the first time they just cleared it.

It came back a couple months later, this time I cleared it using an OBD2 scanner.

Finally it comes back every couple days, so I decided to go with a replacement : thing is my appointment is in a little bit more than 2 weeks, because they just ordered the battery...

Am I still able to drive the car until then (only low distances obviously), as I need it for work ?

The car still drives fine with no issues, except it's relying solely on the engine and doesn't use any hybrid assistance or electric driving.

I am thinking about either continue clearing the codes, but I'm not sure it's a good idea.
Otherwise I could just drive it with the codes on, relying only on the engine in the meantime.

Do you think any of those ideas could cause further issues (except the horrible MPG) ?

Would you have any recommendations ?

Thanks a lot!

Help, RPMs are bouncy for ~10s after cold starts, doesn't seem to happen every time (say 4/10 starts). I can smell the gasoline in the cabin initially and the smell disappears soon after the bouncing stops. The car runs fine afterwards and no issues when starting if the engine is warm. Any ideas?

Seat Ibiza 2012 1.2L SJ6 69hp petrol

My dream was to study mechanical engineering but unfortunately I couldn't but if I wanted to learn by my own is there any advice you can give me to start on my own

I drive a 2014 qashqai, and my check engine light come on - diagnostic tell i need my high pressure fuel pump replacing.

Most garages are quoting me around 1k,

However one did quote for under £400, which is an after market part - is it likely to be safe to go with the cheaper or should I front the 1k cost

Fiat Linea 2007, 1.3 Multijet

For context: I changed the alternator and the starter motor. And I put a new battery on it from another car.

I wish I can change the car but is my only way of transport till next year

1997 Ford F150, looking to maybe buy this truck ($1200, 189k miles) asked for a video of it cold starting and idling because of the noise, what do yall think it is? I think it might be either the timing chain guides, valve train, or belt tensioner idk.

2010 2.5l mk6 golf
What do they say about how my car is running and are they bad bad? Why is the worst one silver and look cleaner?

I have a 2013 volkswagen passat with the 09G 6 speed auto and my rpm needle kind of bounces (50-100rpm) ive noticed my speedometer needle does it as well in tandem after watching it like a hawk lol. It only does it when im holding a steady speed on the road and ive asked others with similar volkswagens and they say its normal? Just want to be sure. I have no codes and it runs great and shifts fine. Transmission fluid was changed not to long ago.

My truck is a 2020 6.2L F-350 and has this loud intermittent knock at idle. You can’t hear it when driving and it’s very faint from inside the cab, but sounds pretty gnarly when you get close to the engine and listen. Could anyone tell me what it may be? And as a follow up—is it expensive?

everything in my car was fine up until i was driving home and felt like my car was shaking harder than its supposed to. Especially when it was in idle, took it to get an engine light check at auto-zone and this is the only thing that appeared. Already ordered new spark plugs and new ignition coils, but I’m anxious and just am curious and wondering if someone thinks it could be something else? I drive a 2019 Kia Optima S. Any help is gladly appreciated thank you!

Ok so I am coming on here because I have a problem. My Knock Retard is going up to an 8.5 under about 50% throttle; I cannot figure out why. I drive a 2019 Accord 2.0T. It was on a off the shelf Ktuner tune, then I noticed the Knock Value so I set it back to stock, any ideas on what it could be, I doubt its the tune because I set it back to factory calibration and the Knock Retard still went up. Spark plugs look fine but look to be running a bit hot. Any input is appreciated

An '01 Dodge Ram, uncertain on the motor size beyond a v8 magnum (not mine) been having issues getting started or staying running, I've changed the starter in it, got a altenator coming for it but it turns over fine, just doesn't really try to fire up. has electrical clicking coming from the block, sounds to me like injectors and that is while the key is in the on position and for about 5 minutes after ran a scan tool on it, no codes given.

As title suggest. Shop quoted $360 (labor + genuine part) to replace. No issue in shifting/driving?, or I am just used to it. Hasn't found good suggestion whether to replace the sensor or not.

Any recommendation is appreciated.

My car has 172K miles. Has other maintenance items I may consider prioritizing.