Okay so I know this probably isn’t the right way to fix it and I am a terrible shitty no good autobody tech. Because I’m not an autobody tech, just a guy. (I tried PDR with a kit but I suck ass at it and got nowhere)

With that out of the way:

This is where I am (3’rd pic)

I am going to wet sand the primer and clean the car real good then wrap it after my DIY hail damage repair. I think I did pretty damn good for my first time ever attempting anything with bondo or autobody in general.

Question is, what’s my next step? How do I feather the spot primer into the surrounding paint? What grit? 17” Block? Guide coat? Magical tool I don’t know about?

Please help.

TLDR: I suck. Give me your wisdom

Edit:
UPOL 1k Aerosol Primer applied on 180 grit surface
Bondo Short Fiber applied in deeper holes
Bondo original filler applied in shallow hole

Have some corporate contracts that decided they're going to freeze spending for Q4. Add insurance companies funneling all customers to their drps and the state of the economy is in the dumpster, customers are just not repairing. How are you shop owners holding up?

Will fluid film save this?

Just ranting here but fuck these rams tailgate letter!! Getting .2 hours to Remove them and .3 for clean and retape!!!

Repainted this plastic spoiler. Had failed clear coat. Some of my sanding went down to bare plastic.

I hit it with a 1K speed sealer then got these solvent pops once I hit it with paint. Everything was degreased and wiped down properly.

The pops happened around where the plastic meets the paint where I sanded.

Using solvent based paint.

What causes this and how can I avoid it in the future?

My wife ran over multiple things in a construction zone. How bad is this? Is this an easy fix?

It is leased and Geico is my insurance. But it is at the collision center and they are not very helpful.

I bought this bumper because it was the only one I could find in my area. Do you think it’s something I could fix myself DIY, or would I be better off taking it to an auto body shop?

I know this is a very common rust spot for miata's.

03 NB

Should i fix this rust on the surface or it'll go without any issues I'm just looking it to drive for next 2 years then imma change my vehicle

Someone in a lawn crew's truck hit my parked car today. I filed a police report, but the driver reached out and wants to skip insurance and have a body shop he knows handle the repair.

Damage is to the front bumper, hood, fender, and driver's side door and mirror (photos attached).

For those with body shop experience:

1. Which of these panels can usually be repaired versus replaced, and what hidden damage should I have checked?

2. What would a fair settlement look like when the other driver pays directly, and what should I get in writing first?

3. Is it better to let him pick the shop, or should I choose my own? (Feel like body parts are going to be hard to find)

Thanks!

I don’t immediately have access to a shop, welder, etc. Looking to do something rather than nothing. Any advice appreciated

Looking at buying this 2006 2500 with a 6.0. Owner claims it’s just surface rust. Thoughts?

https://ibb.co/7xw4np6n

https://ibb.co/wN1xmTvG

2023 Toyota Camry le, 40k miles, still runs and drives no obvious leaks or check engine lights, airbags did not deploy. Is insurance gonna total this out?

FML. Looked away for two seconds. Best way to fix this?

My left rear fender has rust on both sides of the wheel well, and my right rear fender has rust behind wheel well on my G-Body (87 Grand National).  They sell patch panels for these areas. although I would have to fabricate some of wheel well lip on the left side in front of the wheel, which can be tricky as both the inner and outer metal has been cut here.

My welding experience is limited; I have a Lincoln Pro-Mig 135 with shielding gas and 0.23 wire that I used to weld in new floor panels, and my welds are not nice.

Should I be attempting this work on my own, or bring it to the pros?  Any DIY guides, videos or channels to follow with respect to this work?

Transit 350 service-style body. Back doors look like toolbox doors. How do I find new doors to replace them? As my Google searching is not giving me any help lol.

Hi everyone, I bought this car a year ago and the rear-right outer door seal has always stuck out slightly. I noticed water getting in from this area recently so decided it’s time to fix it. I was expecting to replace the seals… but when I had a closer look, I discovered the seals are perfectly fine. The problem seems to be that the corner of the door has been bent outwards!

As you can see from the images, the top-right corner of the door has been bent outwards which means the door isn’t even touching the inner seal (nor the outer seal touching the body of the car) and you can see daylight coming through, which is where the water is coming from.

But comparing the left (good) door and right (bent) door, there’s deformation and slight cracking where it looks like the door has been bent inwards… not outwards. Very confusing.

Any ideas on what could’ve happened? Manufacturing fault maybe? Car has never been involved in an accident.

Hi everyone.
My front fender on the passenger side is dented inward after I accidentally took out someone’s side view mirror.

I would love some input on what exactly is messed up and how long it’ll take to repair. Obviously im going to be taking it to a shop, but i cant for a week or so and want to get an idea. Thanks!

Got hit I think by some random. How should I go about fixing it?