Hello, just bought a opel Astra f 1995, and it needed a head gasket replacement, doing to low compression on cylinders 4 and a lot of smoke.

Turns out it was the gasket was blown between the water chamber and the cylinder.

The head was sent to machining but the block wasn’t removed from the car.

I’m doing the machining of the block by hand, with a machined block of steel to hold the sandpaper and I’m checking for the warping and flatness with another steel machined ruler.

As of today the surface between the cylinder and the water chamber has less than 0.05 mm of deviation and the water chamber to the outside has less than 0.15 mm of deviation. Started as less than 0.15 mm and less than 0,25 mm.

I bought a mls steel gasket and copper spray gasket. What’s your opinion on that, should I stop here, or do I need to go through it all (I’m tired boss).

Any comment is welcome.

do you know how I can get a broken AUX plug tip out of my car stereo? The metal part snapped off inside the AUX port and is stuck all the way in. I can't get it out. Do you know how I could remove it without damaging the stereo?

2003 Ford F350 v10 single rear wheel

I replaced my rear calipers a month or so ago, and I don’t think I tightened the mounting bolts to proper spec, and one backed out. Only damage i see is some scuffing on the outside of the caliper where it rubbed the wheeI for a bit (pic 3). When I was parking, the caliper caught when I switched to reverse, and the whole truck jerked as the wheeI forced itself to spin around the caliper. I didn’t move after that bc I didn’t want to cause potentially more damage. The caliper slides back into position on its own, should just a new bolt torqued properly hold it?

I just need to get home like 20 minutes away by freeway today (I don’t drive over 60). What are the odds serious damage has occurred? Can I throw in a bolt and forget it ever happened? Or should I replace the entire caliper and rotor again..

Any advice appreciated!

Edit: Thank you for all the replies! I really appreciate it. I’m waiting for my local part store to get the bolt delivered, cuz nobody had it in stock. I will look up torque spec and make sure the 2 mounting bolts on each rear caliper is torqued correctly. The bolts come w blue loctite on them already.

2011 Toyota tundra 5.7 these are both rear rotors. I already ordered replacements and pads. But didn’t know if this was indicative of a caliper problem or something else? TIA

I was changing the Ac compressor on my 2011 Toyota corolla. Managed to get the compressor off but snapped one of the mounting bolts in half and it’s stuck. My uncle tried to weld a nut on the tip but didn’t do a great job. This job has turned into a nightmare. I just want my car back on the road. Any suggestions? I’m assuming I’d run into issues if I decide to saw it off and use 3 bolts instead of 4. Please help.

No start, No sound. Locked key.

This video is of my 2012 Corolla. The vehicle has around 88k miles. Video was taken in the morning with it being around 42 degrees outside. It has happened once before maybe a year ago. After 30 min of trying in 1 minute intervals it finally kicked on.

I'm trying to identify the ticking/rattling noise from this 1.2 kappa engine in my 2019 I20 CVT 33000kms. AC is off. There also seems to be an oil spot on the plastic tray in the bottom. Do not know if both are related.

Hey yall, new BC’s inbound, however, how cooked are these currently? Really hesitating to drive at all.

Bought a 99 Toyota crown athlete V-1JZ GTE-a few weeks ago, and it was smooth sailing. Swapped out the rims and tires just fine, went to mile high stadium for a car show, and on my way back I thought I had a flat.

Brought it to le shwabs, they said no, removed the tires, said structurally everything is drivable but needs to be replaced.

Two weeks go by, squeaking continues. Two days ago, I get in to go to work and it’s gone from squeaking to metallic rubbing.

My question is, how cooked are these current coils?

2019 VW Jetta, 1.4 TSI, 6 Speed. 67400 miles

Recently had the oil sensor fault light come on. I scanned the car and got these codes. I was wondering this would be a sensor problem or a wiring problem. I did a brief inspection of the wire and found a very small kink. I’m not sure if this is the problem. Any help would be great.

Hit a pothole NYC. 2023 cx9. Inner tie rod snapped.
I am unable to unbolt it. Tried the inner tie rod removal tool from auto zone but it didn’t work. Also tried a pipe wrench, since the space is limited under the car, it didn’t work either.
Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!

Ok so I am coming on here because I have a problem. My Knock Retard is going up to an 8.5 under about 50% throttle; I cannot figure out why. I drive a 2019 Accord 2.0T. It was on a off the shelf Ktuner tune, then I noticed the Knock Value so I set it back to stock, any ideas on what it could be, I doubt its the tune because I set it back to factory calibration and the Knock Retard still went up. Spark plugs look fine but look to be running a bit hot. Any input is appreciated

I have a Jetta se it drives perfectly fine but after driving for 10-15 minutes my ecm light and engine light come on. I have codes P0697 P0343 P0341 P0299. I’ve replaced both my camshaft sensors I’ve checked my map sensor and my VVT solenoid. My oil is fine and I don’t hear any strange sounds while driving or starting my car. I just finished a 10 hour car ride last week and only had one instance where I was driving and pressing heavily on the pedal but I was not going above 40 mph. That lasted for about 25 minutes and I turned my car off and waited about 10 minutes and I was fine. 

The very first time this happend the ecm light came on and then about an hour later ok the highway I was no longer able to excelarate for around 15 seconds. My engine light came on and I pulled over on the side of the road but after I parked my car it was fine but the lights stayed on.

I plan on driving 15 hours next month so I’d like to try to fix it before I go if anybody knows anything about this issue and could help it would be much appreciated

my moms car was smoking I popped the hood and something is leaking on top of the cats burning the liquid she did have problems with the transmission recently it has problems with going into drive. If anybody can help me narrow this down it’ll be greatly appreciated

An '01 Dodge Ram, uncertain on the motor size beyond a v8 magnum (not mine) been having issues getting started or staying running, I've changed the starter in it, got a altenator coming for it but it turns over fine, just doesn't really try to fire up. has electrical clicking coming from the block, sounds to me like injectors and that is while the key is in the on position and for about 5 minutes after ran a scan tool on it, no codes given.

Hello!
Do you think this oil is leaking from the cylinder head or from somewhere above?
BMW E90 330i N52B30

Unsolvable code. P0707 (1995 Ford Ranger 3.0)

Symptoms: O/D light flashing. Trans limp mode, clunks into gear. OD light comes on at 10-15s on cold start, 30-60 on warm. Today it didn’t come on til I shifted into reverse. 4WD lights now flash twice then go off

Things done: New TRS/neutral safety switch, new trans solenoids + fluid and filter, repaired visibly damaged wires from previous owner shittily installing bad aftermarket alarm,

Background- In my mind I’ve narrowed it down to either a bad wire or connector somewhere, or something with the shift linkage. Visibly the wires look fine everywhere, under the hood, next to pan, in the cab.

Shift linkage I’m 50/50 on because today the light didn’t come on until I shifted into R, the first gear. But after restarting it, it now comes on at the usual 15 seconds. Tried with the linkage detached, just moving the arm manually.

Swapped fuses around, all seem fine, reverse lights come on and truck starts and drives, so I don’t think it’s an alignment issue. In ford OEM enhanced mode KOEO it does throw P1705 only

Has anyone tackled these codes before? From what I read it’s usually just a new TRS that fixes it but nope. Could the TRS be unaligned? Even though my reverse lights come on and the OD light flashes when shift cable is disconnected?

Thanks I’ve been fighting this for a couple weeks,I offered a reward but mods said that’s not allowed so fair enough

I had to refill the oil after a month on my partner's car which indicated an oil leak. Think I've found the source, it drips there when the car is running. I was wondering what your thoughts were before I take it to the garage?

Citroen C4 Cactus - 1.2L

As title suggest. Shop quoted $360 (labor + genuine part) to replace. No issue in shifting/driving?, or I am just used to it. Hasn't found good suggestion whether to replace the sensor or not.

Any recommendation is appreciated.

My car has 172K miles. Has other maintenance items I may consider prioritizing.

I have a 2016 dodge ram 2500, my truck was working fine a couple of days ago, and just last night it won't start. I checked the batteries, fuses, and checked for lose or corroded wiring and nothing. The last thing might be the starter but can this be a symptom of a bad starter?