Here’s a lamp I built based on Frank Lloyd Wrights Taliesin lamp. I built mine out of cherry. It features 8 bulbs instead of 10 because I was limited by the size of my table saw. The center post is made of two pieces with a grove down the center that have been glued together. The lamp boxes are constructed with simple miter joints. They are just a touch smaller than the lamp post so they spring into place. This is one of the first times I’ve been able to use a cnc machine in my woodworking. It was used to route the wires compartment on the bottom. I used 24v bulbs similar to the type a microwave uses. All in all I’m very pleased with how it came out!

Been woodworking for a bit now and always thought building a guitar would be cool but the project always intimidated me. Finally got the guts to do it and this is how it turned out! Was definitely NOT without its bumps in the road. Got ahead of myself with the epoxy stuff and routed the design and poured before knowing where the hardware needed to be. So ended up making an entirely new body. Same with the neck and fretboard. Routed the truss rod channel on the wrong side of the neck and messed up cutting the frets on the fretboard. So I have essentially an entire second guitar worth of “lessons learned”. First time doing a cerused finished, first time working with epoxy, first time building a guitar, but absolutely not the first or last time I learn a few lessons while working on a project! Body is red oak, neck is maple, and fretboard is purpleheart.

Just wrapped this up late last week and wanted to show it off. Cherry base, and maple everywhere else. What do you guys think? Build another? 😉

8 pieces of eastern pine . Carved, disassembled, hollowed out and put back together. Internal threaded rod runs the length , bolted at either end behind wood dowels. Initially messed up the back leg structure and added a heel up high. Was able to make the correction and straighten it out.

Creating a modified version of the anarchist workbench. I was glueing up the the top and two portions so they fit in my planer. I noticed that there was a somewhat significant gap when doing a dry fit before gluing as you can see in the pictures any issue with this? Should I overfill and allow the glue to fill in the defect? Wood shims if there’s any defect after it dries? Any help appreciated.

I do have a benchtop jointer but these boards are still a little twisted after the glue up so idk if that would help me entirely. I plan to hand plane it flat enough to work after getting these two sections attached.

For my 5 year wedding anniversary (wood), my gift was this driftwood from my wife’s hometown carved into a heart with a poem entitled “Driftwood Heart.” This was my first carving project, but I used a dremel for a lot of it, then sanded starting with 80 and ending with 2000 grit. Used tung oil then finishing wax for the polish. I left the back rough which you can see in this video. For the base, I drilled into it, added a bolt and worked with a local granite company to pick the stone, which I was hoping would tastefully mirror the ocean. She liked it.

Really love French polish, and how it brings out the wood's natural beauty.

This is only the "first" layer, with one or two more to come. I want it to be really shiny.

I'm in the north east usa... going to the lumberyard has felt like such a crapshoot lately. I only really buy Ash, Oak, Walnut, and Cherry, and every time the lumber I bring home just seems worse. The Ash has more discoloration and I'm uncovering pinholes when I'm processing it. The Cherry has more and larger sap pockets. The latest board I got is hard as a rock with a ton of twisted grain and tears out like crazy. Blotchy as hell before finish even touches it. The Walnut has more sapwood, knots, and twisted crazy grain. The Oak has been pretty consistent except the last board I got was way more porous and noticeably lighter than I'm used to. The widths I can get are also thinner. A bunch of 4"-6" wide bullshit instead of the 6"-10" I'm used to being able to pick through.

Is anyone else noticing a decline or is it just my lumberyard? Not really sure if I should give them a call and ask if they changed suppliers or something in the past few months. I'd try another place entirely but I'm already driving an hour to get to them.

Hey everyone, I’m in the market for a drill press. Of course I’d love a new floor model but can’t justify the cost at this point.

I’m wondering if I should be looking at a new mid tier ($300-400) bench top model (like the Wen 12”) or go for one I found on FBM, the JET JDP-17MF for $325

Assuming the JET works well, what would the hive mind recommend?

Hi everyone. I picked up an old bandsaw for $200. Definitely needs some maintenance items. But it is missing the main belt that connects the Lower half to the pulley that actually spins the blade. The old manuals are a little tricky to read if someone could direct me to the right part number it would be greatly appreciated.

(take two, I did the wrong flair last time)

Iroko bathmat with steel support bars and rubber feet. I hope I picked a good wood for this, it’s unfinished and I hope that doesn’t present a problem.

They’re two separate pieces that form the L shape.

Made it for the Mrs, she loves it.

Would love to hear your thoughts!

I see various posts about billing and getting paid, and I thought I'd share my contract terms with everyone. It isn't perfect I'm sure, but every line is the result of a past learning experience, and many have helped me out of sticky situations - if nothing else, it's a place for you to start. I should note that these are appended to the proposal / contract, which spells out pricing, payment drawings and images, schedule, scope, assumptions & clarifications, and exclusions specifically for the project in question (and so the Terms and Conditions are referring to the proposal).

Here's hoping this helps you in the future!

Terms and Conditions

Proposal - Project Schedule and cost

1. This proposal is valid for 10 days. 
2. Shortening the Project Schedule after project start (if possible) will result in premium pricing.
3. Work will be scheduled, materials ordered, and/or samples prepared, after receipt of initial deposit where applicable, and signed contract.
4. Internal project schedule is at our discretion; delivery dates will be as stipulated above.
5. All fabrication shall occur at our place of business, excepting Delivery & Installation, unless specifically noted otherwise in the proposal above.

Change Orders

1. No changes shall be made to this contract or specifications, except in writing and signed by both parties, and shall include cost increases, if any, to be paid at Project Completion.

Documentation - Design, Shop Drawings and Samples

1. Design fees (if noted in proposal) include one round of design options. Further design options or refinements will result in additional fees to be billed at Shop Rate. 
2. Shop drawings (if noted in proposal) include elevations, plans and details as necessary to identify all critical dimensions and special features, along with one revision and re-submittal.  Additional changes to the shop drawings will be billed at Shop Rate.
3. Aspects of the project not represented on shop drawings are outside this contract’s scope.
4. Any detail pertaining to construction or installation that is not specifically discussed and documented in shop drawings will be performed at the discretion of the fabricator.
5. Any shop drawings and/or samples must be reviewed and approved by the Client within five business days of submission unless otherwise stipulated above.
6. Delays due to an extended review period may extend the project schedule and/or increase the project cost at our discretion and changes must be approved.

Color Samples

1. For samples we provide or create, one sample and one refinement per specified finish is included in the proposal.   Additional samples will result in additional fees. 
2. Samples provided by the client must be physical samples (photographs cannot be matched), except named paint swatches from Benjamin Moore.  Paint swatches from other manufacturers may require a physical swatch.

Fabrication & Tolerances

1. All fabrication will be based on approved drawings and, for built-in millwork, verified site conditions (where possible).  Changes to site conditions by other Trades may affect project schedule, labor and material costs, and result in additional fees.
2. Built-in fixtures shall be provided by the Client in order to insure fit.  Where necessary, cut sheets / product specifications will be used, but any variation in the actual product from the cut sheet or specifications shall incur additional work to be billed at Shop Rate.
3. Any dimensions specified shall have the following allowance for tolerances: <1” : .001” ; <12”: .01”;  <100” : .1”; >100 : .2"

Delivery, Installation and Project Closeout

1. Delays to delivery / installation schedule due to field conditions will result in additional storage fees.  Any work undeliverable for more than 30 days after agreed upon completion date will result in storage fees of $10 per square foot per month.  After 60 days, at our discretion, work may be transported to a secondary storage facility and incur relevant transport and storage fees.
2. Post-installation protection of our work is the responsibility of the General Contractor.  Alternatively, we can provide necessary protection for an additional fee.  Any repairs necessitated by damage caused by other trades will be billed hourly at a Shop Rate.
3. Upon substantial completion, all work is to be reviewed with the Client and a single list (“punch list”) shall be prepared, identifying all work to be completed or corrected.  Corrective measures required by punchlist to be expeditiously completed.
4. Upon project completion, we reserve the right to document the project for marketing purposes.  This would entail onsite photographs, and in some cases one follow up visit with a photographer, if approved.
5. All work shall be performed in a professional manner, with no defects in workmanship, as defined by AWI.  Warranty on the workmanship and material shall be for a period of 12 months from the date of the contract completion.
6. The following are excluded from warranty: 
   1. Reasonable wear and tear from usage;
   2. Movement, misalignment or damage of work due to settling, movement of foundation or floors, walls or ceilings, or mis-installation by others;
   3. Damage to work, finish, or any defect due to exposure to excessive moisture, heat, humidity, or cold;
   4. Damage to work by other trades; or
   5. Force Majeure (damage caused by natural disaster, flooding, and etc.).

Payment

1. All invoices to be paid within one week of issue.
2. Outstanding invoices may result in work stoppage, at our discretion.
3. Account balances not paid within 30 days of invoice date will be charged a finance charge of 1-1/2% per month or the maximum permitted by law and a $25 late fee. Checks returned for any reason will incur a $50 handling charge plus all related bank fees and penalties, per occasion.

Early Termination.

1. In the event the Client elects to terminate this contract, the Client agrees to pay for all materials purchased, all services rendered prior to date of termination at contract rate, and a cancellation fee of 10% of the original project cost.  Project work (i.e. raw materials, work in progress, etc) will be made available for Client to pick up from our shop after payment.

I'm hoping to get an idea of whether these books are well-regarded in the woodworking community. I've bought them, but would like to know if there are any in particular people here would suggest I supplement or replace. Thanks in advance for any help!

Humble Bundle link: https://www.humblebundle.com/books/woodworking-turning-and-carving-an-encore-by-taunton-press-abrams-books

I have a few boxes of Mirka gold but they're increasingly hard to find and I'm wondering what other people use. Looking for something reliable and long-lasting. Mirka gold has been excellent but I can't get the 220 as easily anymore and that's what I burn through the fastest. Thanks!

The build here is a floating entertainment center. 62X12x13 ish. The top a sides are slab waterfall walnut with 45 degree miters. As you can see the wood has moved / cupped a little the 45s are not closing on dry fit. (no clamping pressure applied yet). Looking for ideas on how to recover. Would like to preserve the waterfall grain as best I can. The 45s will have 8x40 dominos for alignment / strength. Have all the tools pretty much except a proper jointer.

I posted a while back asking what this profile was.
https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/1pzvd94/router_bit_name/

I removed the storm window and looked at it on edge and it's Ogee. This is what Ogee looks like after 100 years of lead paint and weathering.

Got this idea from “Handy Dandy Brandy”

Made a couple of these charcuterie boards for us and some family members. I used birch, mahogany and yellow heart for the mustard. Speaking of the mustard, I made a quick pattern in Fusion 360 and printed it as a template to use with a router and inlay bushing kit.
I know they’re pretty simple but we get a lot of comments on them. Definitely a conversation piece!

I inherited my grandfather’s desk, it’s something I always wanted for 30 years

And now that I finally have it, I cannot figure out how to open the drawers.

There’s no obvious keyhole and I don’t understand how it’s locked

The middle drawer opens and is not locked, but the two side cabinet drawers are locked.

There a medallion in the middle drawer that says “Leopold Desk”

EDIT - solved !

There the roll top must be installed and fully open - that presses a catch inside the base and releases the drawers.

It wasn’t engaging properly and took some beeswax to lubricant things so it would fully open and engage the release mechanism

Thanks all !!!! Your ideas helped !!!

Nearing the half way point after about 34 hours

I'll try again with a better title 🤷

So basically I typically make some furniture and do a lot of wood turning but ive now got access to a lot of large uneven ash and oak slabs/rounds and want to make tables and such but im really struggling to flatten said wood with basic hand tools. Would the router and sled pictured be any good and is it good value?

Thanks.

We were gifted this beautiful vase but it's extremely delicate, so I made a display case for it. Cherry, with a shellac finish.
Here's a build album with all the steps: https://imgur.com/a/ybaaQBM

TL;DR - Smoke damage is making me get new equipment. Looking for some advice on table saws, jointers, and planers mostly. 7k~ for all would be great.

Don't want to get too into it but my shop was written off due to smoke damage. My wife likes to joke that my shop was my project, not what came out of it. Mostly, she was right. I spent a lot of time tweaking my space, aligning every blade and fence, and putting about 10 years into building it from nothing but a used 113 I picked up cheap.

I ran a PM-1000 as my main saw, a large outfeed table that a lowrider CNC was undermounted on, french cleat walls, ryobi cordless tools, dewalt planer, craftsman jointer, and triton router on the TS wing. For the rebuild I thought putting a better focus on what I call the big 3 - table saw, planer, and jointer made the most sense.

I admit, now that I have to get everything all over again, I'm being very picky. Over the last two years I've been doing a lot more hardwood projects and with the walls down I can run my own 240 for a power upgrade.

Table saws I'm looking at are the sawstop 3HP, Harvey, Laguna, Grizzly, and Hammer. Laguna and Hammer are basically out at this point from bad CS to way too much in freight costs. I like the idea of a slider because I do work a lot with plywood (and honestly I hate track saws), but wouldn't matter as much if I made the move to mostly hardwood. A combo of sawstop and the slider was another option but when I saw it in person I was not impressed at all. Saw was fine but the slider had play in it and seemed not that great.

A nice jointer would be a great addition as mine has kind of sucked and came out of square all the time. It could also alleviate planer jigs for flattening and TS fence jigs to get a glue edge. Usually only have an hour or so outside of weekends to work on things so being able to get milled wood quickly is a huge bonus. Been looking mostly at the Grizzly jointers and a Oliver 10045 planer. The Hammer 10" combo was/still is in the running, but again, shipping it is a lot and I like to have the option of a longer bed, which it doesn't have.

My outfeed / CNC area is basically already planned out but I'm feeling a big mixture of reviews and decision paralysis when it comes to the tools. I'll more than likely just get Ryobi cordless again. They served me well and also use their outdoor stuff a lot, no complaints and lasted 8ish years.

I don't necessarily build any one thing in particular. I reno, build instead of buy when I can, make projects I see online that I like, gift to friends and sell some other stuff. I have been getting more into tables, which was okay? Flattening was a pain on the slabs. I think going forward I may be more inclined to find rough milled 8/4 and do it that way instead. Honestly everything over a contractor saw is overkill, but this is my space and hobby and I like working with good tools that are accurate.

Price wise - 4k for the TS, 1.5-2k for a 8" jointer, 1k for the planer is where I am looking. My Lowrider is going to be re-printed and my table is being upgraded but I already factored that into costs. Dust Collection wise I'll be doing roughly the same as before with a cyclone and a 1.5-2HP wall mounted unit + filter.

My first table - built from slabs of local walnut I bought from a farmer here in Luxembourg. Very interesting (for me at least) to have consistent spalting and curl in walnut like this. All pieces from the same tree, finished in Osmo Polyx.