Here’s a lamp I built based on Frank Lloyd Wrights Taliesin lamp. I built mine out of cherry. It features 8 bulbs instead of 10 because I was limited by the size of my table saw. The center post is made of two pieces with a grove down the center that have been glued together. The lamp boxes are constructed with simple miter joints. They are just a touch smaller than the lamp post so they spring into place. This is one of the first times I’ve been able to use a cnc machine in my woodworking. It was used to route the wires compartment on the bottom. I used 24v bulbs similar to the type a microwave uses. All in all I’m very pleased with how it came out!

Been woodworking for a bit now and always thought building a guitar would be cool but the project always intimidated me. Finally got the guts to do it and this is how it turned out! Was definitely NOT without its bumps in the road. Got ahead of myself with the epoxy stuff and routed the design and poured before knowing where the hardware needed to be. So ended up making an entirely new body. Same with the neck and fretboard. Routed the truss rod channel on the wrong side of the neck and messed up cutting the frets on the fretboard. So I have essentially an entire second guitar worth of “lessons learned”. First time doing a cerused finished, first time working with epoxy, first time building a guitar, but absolutely not the first or last time I learn a few lessons while working on a project! Body is red oak, neck is maple, and fretboard is purpleheart.

8 pieces of eastern pine . Carved, disassembled, hollowed out and put back together. Internal threaded rod runs the length , bolted at either end behind wood dowels. Initially messed up the back leg structure and added a heel up high. Was able to make the correction and straighten it out.

Just wrapped this up late last week and wanted to show it off. Cherry base, and maple everywhere else. What do you guys think? Build another? 😉

Creating a modified version of the anarchist workbench. I was glueing up the the top and two portions so they fit in my planer. I noticed that there was a somewhat significant gap when doing a dry fit before gluing as you can see in the pictures any issue with this? Should I overfill and allow the glue to fill in the defect? Wood shims if there’s any defect after it dries? Any help appreciated.

I do have a benchtop jointer but these boards are still a little twisted after the glue up so idk if that would help me entirely. I plan to hand plane it flat enough to work after getting these two sections attached.

For my 5 year wedding anniversary (wood), my gift was this driftwood from my wife’s hometown carved into a heart with a poem entitled “Driftwood Heart.” This was my first carving project, but I used a dremel for a lot of it, then sanded starting with 80 and ending with 2000 grit. Used tung oil then finishing wax for the polish. I left the back rough which you can see in this video. For the base, I drilled into it, added a bolt and worked with a local granite company to pick the stone, which I was hoping would tastefully mirror the ocean. She liked it.

Really love French polish, and how it brings out the wood's natural beauty.

This is only the "first" layer, with one or two more to come. I want it to be really shiny.

We built a kitchen, cut sheet said sink was 20”W.

Sink installer came with sink, said sink didn’t fit.

GC calls and said we fucked up the cabinet is too small.

I drop everything and drive to the job, confirm that cabinet is the correct size I was told to build, and that the sink is 1/4” bigger than its own spec sheet from the manufacture.

Then at the GC’s directive, I make the sink fit, which involved 5 minutes of work on the inside of the sink base (never to be seen ever again once sink is in) and ta da, sink fits.

Then later, GC freaks out when I bill him for that. Saying that it is my responsibility as the cabinet maker to make sure the sink fits. Completely ignoring that the cabinet was built exactly to spec.

My argument for the bill was , as the cabinet maker I was absolutely going to ensure the sink fit my cabinet, BUT as I did nothing wrong, this was out of scope work and I was absolutely justified to charge. Especially for dropping everything and going over to the job site.

Thoughts?

I'm in the north east usa... going to the lumberyard has felt like such a crapshoot lately. I only really buy Ash, Oak, Walnut, and Cherry, and every time the lumber I bring home just seems worse. The Ash has more discoloration and I'm uncovering pinholes when I'm processing it. The Cherry has more and larger sap pockets. The latest board I got is hard as a rock with a ton of twisted grain and tears out like crazy. Blotchy as hell before finish even touches it. The Walnut has more sapwood, knots, and twisted crazy grain. The Oak has been pretty consistent except the last board I got was way more porous and noticeably lighter than I'm used to. The widths I can get are also thinner. A bunch of 4"-6" wide bullshit instead of the 6"-10" I'm used to being able to pick through.

Is anyone else noticing a decline or is it just my lumberyard? Not really sure if I should give them a call and ask if they changed suppliers or something in the past few months. I'd try another place entirely but I'm already driving an hour to get to them.

(take two, I did the wrong flair last time)

Iroko bathmat with steel support bars and rubber feet. I hope I picked a good wood for this, it’s unfinished and I hope that doesn’t present a problem.

They’re two separate pieces that form the L shape.

Made it for the Mrs, she loves it.

Would love to hear your thoughts!

The build here is a floating entertainment center. 62X12x13 ish. The top a sides are slab waterfall walnut with 45 degree miters. As you can see the wood has moved / cupped a little the 45s are not closing on dry fit. (no clamping pressure applied yet). Looking for ideas on how to recover. Would like to preserve the waterfall grain as best I can. The 45s will have 8x40 dominos for alignment / strength. Have all the tools pretty much except a proper jointer.

Got this idea from “Handy Dandy Brandy”

Made a couple of these charcuterie boards for us and some family members. I used birch, mahogany and yellow heart for the mustard. Speaking of the mustard, I made a quick pattern in Fusion 360 and printed it as a template to use with a router and inlay bushing kit.
I know they’re pretty simple but we get a lot of comments on them. Definitely a conversation piece!

Hi everyone. I picked up an old bandsaw for $200. Definitely needs some maintenance items. But it is missing the main belt that connects the Lower half to the pulley that actually spins the blade. The old manuals are a little tricky to read if someone could direct me to the right part number it would be greatly appreciated.

I inherited my grandfather’s desk, it’s something I always wanted for 30 years

And now that I finally have it, I cannot figure out how to open the drawers.

There’s no obvious keyhole and I don’t understand how it’s locked

The middle drawer opens and is not locked, but the two side cabinet drawers are locked.

There a medallion in the middle drawer that says “Leopold Desk”

EDIT - solved !

There the roll top must be installed and fully open - that presses a catch inside the base and releases the drawers.

It wasn’t engaging properly and took some beeswax to lubricant things so it would fully open and engage the release mechanism

Thanks all !!!! Your ideas helped !!!

Nearing the half way point after about 34 hours

I'll try again with a better title 🤷

So basically I typically make some furniture and do a lot of wood turning but ive now got access to a lot of large uneven ash and oak slabs/rounds and want to make tables and such but im really struggling to flatten said wood with basic hand tools. Would the router and sled pictured be any good and is it good value?

Thanks.

We were gifted this beautiful vase but it's extremely delicate, so I made a display case for it. Cherry, with a shellac finish.
Here's a build album with all the steps: https://imgur.com/a/ybaaQBM

My first table - built from slabs of local walnut I bought from a farmer here in Luxembourg. Very interesting (for me at least) to have consistent spalting and curl in walnut like this. All pieces from the same tree, finished in Osmo Polyx.

Just got back from Bohnhoff Lumber in LA with my last ever load before they close at the end of the week. Very sad time for the community.

And since they don’t deliver any more, I figured I could get it all in the car (checked for 8’ depth before I went to pick it up!). This is 280 bf of white oak (35% off). Thought I might pick up a couple more things and then I thought about how much I was already pushing my luck.

Anyway, curious to hear (and see pics) of the most wood you’ve hauled without the benefit of a truck bed!

Any reason why my replication of hacksmans sliding book shelf design is binding up? Is the horizontal distance between my trolleys too close? 12x2/-1/4 shelf for reference. Pics in comments

TL;DR - Smoke damage is making me get new equipment. Looking for some advice on table saws, jointers, and planers mostly. 7k~ for all would be great.

Don't want to get too into it but my shop was written off due to smoke damage. My wife likes to joke that my shop was my project, not what came out of it. Mostly, she was right. I spent a lot of time tweaking my space, aligning every blade and fence, and putting about 10 years into building it from nothing but a used 113 I picked up cheap.

I ran a PM-1000 as my main saw, a large outfeed table that a lowrider CNC was undermounted on, french cleat walls, ryobi cordless tools, dewalt planer, craftsman jointer, and triton router on the TS wing. For the rebuild I thought putting a better focus on what I call the big 3 - table saw, planer, and jointer made the most sense.

I admit, now that I have to get everything all over again, I'm being very picky. Over the last two years I've been doing a lot more hardwood projects and with the walls down I can run my own 240 for a power upgrade.

Table saws I'm looking at are the sawstop 3HP, Harvey, Laguna, Grizzly, and Hammer. Laguna and Hammer are basically out at this point from bad CS to way too much in freight costs. I like the idea of a slider because I do work a lot with plywood (and honestly I hate track saws), but wouldn't matter as much if I made the move to mostly hardwood. A combo of sawstop and the slider was another option but when I saw it in person I was not impressed at all. Saw was fine but the slider had play in it and seemed not that great.

A nice jointer would be a great addition as mine has kind of sucked and came out of square all the time. It could also alleviate planer jigs for flattening and TS fence jigs to get a glue edge. Usually only have an hour or so outside of weekends to work on things so being able to get milled wood quickly is a huge bonus. Been looking mostly at the Grizzly jointers and a Oliver 10045 planer. The Hammer 10" combo was/still is in the running, but again, shipping it is a lot and I like to have the option of a longer bed, which it doesn't have.

My outfeed / CNC area is basically already planned out but I'm feeling a big mixture of reviews and decision paralysis when it comes to the tools. I'll more than likely just get Ryobi cordless again. They served me well and also use their outdoor stuff a lot, no complaints and lasted 8ish years.

I don't necessarily build any one thing in particular. I reno, build instead of buy when I can, make projects I see online that I like, gift to friends and sell some other stuff. I have been getting more into tables, which was okay? Flattening was a pain on the slabs. I think going forward I may be more inclined to find rough milled 8/4 and do it that way instead. Honestly everything over a contractor saw is overkill, but this is my space and hobby and I like working with good tools that are accurate.

Price wise - 4k for the TS, 1.5-2k for a 8" jointer, 1k for the planer is where I am looking. My Lowrider is going to be re-printed and my table is being upgraded but I already factored that into costs. Dust Collection wise I'll be doing roughly the same as before with a cyclone and a 1.5-2HP wall mounted unit + filter.

Hi all- Infinity Tools has a nice looking lil router sled with adjustable-angle fence. I’d love to utilize the plunger/scale plates that it has for adjust the angle on various jigs. Anyone have any idea where I can source similar hardware to build my own sleds and jigs? Googling has not turned up much other than the plunger/indexing pins that would be used on such plates. I’ve also found the angle plates used for things like milling, but those are way too heavy for most sleds and jigs.

I am a beginner with limited space and tools. I do mostly home projects and some carving. I own hand planes, a circular saw, speed square, compound miter saw and sanders (random orbit, & belt). I may do one or two projects like this in a year.

My next project will be a flat file cabinet from plywood. I have built some drawers for storage in my garage, but the drawer bottoms were just glued/screwed on the bottom. For this project I would like the drawer bottoms in slots, and the drawer slides recessed in dados. That may require more precision than I can execute right now, hence my post.

With 5 drawers of 2 or 3 inches high, I will need likely some jigs and/or new tools to execute the project.

Option 1 is buy nothing and use my long level is a straight edge for my full sized circ saw, hope the clamps are tight, and cut straight. Use this setup to also hog out the dados, and clean up w router plane and chisel. It seems like too many cuts to pray they all come out correctly.

I could get a Bora edge clamp or the Kreg Rip-Cut jig (limited to 24") to make the process more repeatable. Other thoughts to get a sheet down to size?

For the drawer bottom slots, I could also use the rip-cut jig and saw, or edge clamp and buy a palm router. As the drawers will be only 2 or 3" high (16" deep, 22" wide), I was thinking of executing the bottom slot cuts with the saw before the dimensional cuts - does that make sense? But with the router I could use the edge guide and not worry so much about how to execute a saw cut on small piece.

Lastly, I could avoid the drawer slot, and just glue 1/4" ply bottom to the drawers and it will get covered by the drawer face, and add a few inches to the total height. <shrug>

<Update> Yes I should have said I have no room for a table saw at all (not even to store it). When I need to I get a couple of saw horses out (these are custom w 2x6 flat tops), and cut on those in the driveway.