I recently got a Brother sewing machine after using one at the local library for a bit. My mom taught me the basics years ago and I made simple things like a drawstring pouch, and worked up to a quilt using my mom's old machine (finished by hand during lockdown).

But I finally got a (basic) pattern and finished a slightly more advanced project! It's a small backpack. I'm happy with how it turned out and also see all the imperfections lol! Just wanted to share.

Pattern from DLVP Patterns I used a slightly stretchy denim and vinyl and a heavy cotton fabric for the lining. I had some trouble with the interfacing but got that sorted out with some reddit help.

I recently recreated the tennis dress Nike designed for Roland Garros this year. Earlier in the year, I had drafted a recreation of the Kamperett Anemoia dress, which was quite difficult/time consuming. When I saw the Nike dresses, I figured I could pretty easily adapt those pattern pieces to the athletic fabric, and make a new dress. I had also patterned the lycra (shorts and tank combo) for a different athletic dress, so I had these on hand already.

The outer dress is three pattern pieces adapting a princess seam repeated twice for the front. The back pieces are almost the same, but they scoop back much more (are lower). The stretch fabric really limits how much you must change. There is a godet between each pattern piece (10 total). Each of the seams of the outer dress are french-seamed, as the fabric is transparent. In the Nike dresses, they look to be flat felled seams, but this seemed possibly tricky to avoid the fabric bunching even slightly.

I forgot to add fabric information - I believe the outer fabric for both are "athletic mesh," and the inner fabric is lycra. The Kamperett dress recreation is 100% silk. This video was helpful inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eya-Eux6KUo

The inner part of the dress is a tank-top and shorts sewn together. The top is two pattern pieces, and the shorts are three. One piece for each leg, a small triangle for the bum area, and a pocket. I designed the shorts based on a pair of biker shorts I had and liked.

I've now made two of these dresses, and they are serving me well!

It's fun to see how different patterns can be altered in small ways, used on alternate fabrics, and have such distinct end products. A wedding guest dress and a tennis dress!

I’m a contestant in a local sewing competition, Project Runway style. Our prompt for the unconventional materials week was to create a costume using non traditional sewing materials. I cut down the maiden grass seed heads from our yard, sewed it onto some old craft paper I had saved, and secured the reverse side with brown duct tape. The head dress was constructed out of cardboard, an egg carton, and more maiden grass. The grass got progressively fluffier throughout the week and o really loved the texture it gave!

Handmade squid kitty from Coraline stuffed animal/bag charm for my niece as a Christmas present. Made with recycled materials.I made the pattern myself and cut everything and every stitch is hand sewn! Some progress pictures ✨

How I made my pattern: i sketched it out on a thicker paper and then I cut it and traced the pattern onto my fabric.

Fabric: lavender velvet and blush velvet. Embroidery thread and an o ring

Top is before bottom is after! My first time installing a zipper. Super proud!

I found these wool blanket scraps at a local thrift store. Any idea how these could be used? According to store owner, family member’s grandmother had them stored and never did anything with them.

While I technically have made garments before, this is the first time in nearly 20 years I’ve made anything to wear and decided to draft this here tomato costume for Halloween after struggling to find one to buy.

My partner is going as Denethor from Return of the King. IYKYK.

Got my machine serviced a few months ago after decades of disuse, got her all tuned up, and have been taking classes.

The front and back are just two ovals and two tapered 6” gussets with a neckline. Cut a 5” slit in the back I taught myself how to sew a continuous placket on (she’s ugly, but she’s finished, lol). Sort of free formed the collar, then taught myself how to make bias tape to finish the neckline. After realizing that bias tape really does mean you have to cut it on the bias (lol), I decided to buy bias tape for the hem. We won’t talk about how that went, just don’t look too close.

Hook and eye in the back because I misread my collar measurement by a bit. I still put a button in the spot where the collar gaps just for fun (yes, it is a tomato button).

I used only quilting cotton, thick fusible interfacing for the body, and thin for the collar. I thought about lining it and decided there were already enough new lessons in this project, lol.

Okay so as the jeans are currently, they sag a lot at the front which makes my tummy look bigger than it actually is and the fabric has weird bunching.

A belt doesn't really fix the problem, as the fabric just bunches even worse.

How can I fix this problem? I've already put two darts on the rear. I didn't realize how much they would stretch as I wore them, and I should have bought a smaller size but they were over $100 and I just can't afford another pair rn.

I’ve been sewing on and off since 2009, mostly making simple unlined knit dresses or pajamas. This project is my most challenging yet, and I’m very proud of it. I chose the Closet Core Patterns Kelly Anorak because it’s a popular pattern with plenty of resources available. I initially planned to make it for myself in green British Millerain Waxed Cotton, interlined with recycled wool, and lined in silk twill. However, I knew the cost would be much higher than buying the Barbour jacket I wanted, so I decided to test it on cheap fabric from a bargain bin. My 10-year-old daughter had outgrown her fall jacket, so I bought what I thought was basic 10oz. cotton canvas from an online retailer, which turned out to be LL Bean deadstock with a DWR finish. She chose the color and lining fabric, a cotton/viscose blend, which isn’t interlined for warmth since she prefers layering a sweatshirt or sweater on cold days.
The trickiest part was getting that tiny sleeve onto my machine arm so it would attach to the body. I also had a bit of trouble with the flat felled seam on the second sleeve seams. The sleeve was just too small, and the fabric was too thick, so I only managed to do the flat felled sleeve on the most noticeable one.
It took me about 10 days to complete, and sourcing all the notions was a bit difficult, but I feel ready to make it for myself now. I sewed her a women’s size “0” and didn’t shorten it because she’s tall and thin, so she’ll likely grow taller before wider, allowing her to wear the jacket for a couple of years.

Made my first pair of overalls!

I bought a pair at a market in France and absolutely loved them, but after wearing them throughout my pregnancy, the seams started coming apart. So I took them apart and used them as a pattern.

So pleased with how they turned out! Just sad that I have to wait until next summer to wear them 🥲

Second picture is the type of waist I’d like to create. There is no zipper on this dress but I intend to add one after I create the waist. Any tips or thoughts?

100% cotton fabric using Spaghetti Western Henrietta Skirt pattern

This is a super quick and easy sew, the size chart was spot on and its easy to make simple changes and hacks.

I added interest by cutting the yoke fabric running side ways instead of up and down like the rest and I think its so fun.

Im wearing it with the yoke to the front/back but in all their images its usually on the sides, I just like it better my way.

Ill definitely be making this again and trying a few hacks

Does anyone here know what specific type of needle this is (see photos of both the needle alone and the card it was on), or any search terms I could use to find another? I'm desperate because I love it, and if I ever should lose it, I don't even know what to call it to try to find another.

It's a large, thick, curved needle, dual-end-point. It doesn't have quite an even curved perfect C-shape, either; rather, it is almost a J-shape, with one side being ever so slightly less curved than the other. The hole is moved up the shaft a bit and recessed along the one end, which is a bit thicker than the opposite point.

It was in a vintage, guessing 1950s-ish set of Singer hand-sewing needles left to me by my grandmother years ago (who famously hated sewing, lol). In the card that thankfully was included, it is stated as simply "Curved Needle - for repairing upholstery in chairs, car seats, mattresses, etc.", as stated on the card. But if I search for a curved needle, I get the ones you would expect: Single point, hole at the end of the shaft, just a standard c-chaped sewing needle. If I search dual-end-point or dual-pointed curved needle, I get the huge right-angle ones used for knitting. If I search dual-pointed curved upholstery needle, I just get the regular, SINGLE point c-shaped curved needles.

Please, does anyone know what the exact name of this type of needle is? Do they even make them anymore? I've never seen anything like it, and I hate to think it is solely a relic of a single run of 1950s hand sewing needles Singer made once upon a time. Thank you in advance for any insight! ❤️

I have a lovely old quilt top that I got from a thrift store. I want to turn it into a quilt coat - if you were me, would you quilt the whole thing first and then cut out the pattern pieces, or cut pattern pieces from the top, batting, and backing fabric, and then quilt the panels?

I'm really of two minds.

quilting the whole thing:

• unused quilt portion can be turned into a pillow or something bc it's already quilted
• less hassle than quilting the individual pieces (just do simple quilting all over)
• more waste? batting scraps etc
• thicker seams

quilting the pattern pieces:

• conversely to above, easier than quilting the whole thing because you don't have to wrangle a whole quilt - smaller pieces
• more creative quilting opportunity, but also adding more complicated steps to the project
  

• can remove batting from the seam allowance (however this makes more complicated patterning)

  would love to hear how others would tackle this.

Hi! I’m a confident beginner getting back into garment sewing. I made a DIY body cast with plastic wrap and masking tape which I marked, cut off of me, and made into these pattern pieces.

To those with more experience, does this look so wonky that I shouldn’t move forward with making a muslin to alter?

I have scoliosis, so I expected my pattern to be asymmetrical. I also realize I might be getting ahead of myself with this project/it might be too advanced for my skills.

Hi all,
I’m looking for some waterproof plaid fabric to make a snow jacket, however I cannot find anything online that doesn’t involve temu or etsy. Does anyone know of any good fabric websites that specialise in outdoor wear ?

I’m based in Kelowna Canada

I made these 1940s boxer shorts from sewing pattern Simplicity 1960, Style 1 again, a second time as they were really great to sew and make up. The boxers have front pleats and a panel back with adjustable back strap. The waistband is quite deep with buttons at the front centre which at first I did struggle with the size as the button holes are quite small to sew.  As this was one of my beginner projects I followed the tutorial blog on https://vintagesewingpatterncompany.com/products/vintage-sewing-pattern-1940s-boxer-shorts-s1960, which shows a step by step how to sew the boxers.

The pattern is from Vintage Sewing Pattern Company. The fabric is a lightweight cotton viscose which doesn’t wrinkle and is comfortable to wear.  I’m making a tie to match the boxers so will update you with that

Just curious as I cannot find one anywhere, is there a sharps box for rotary blades (60 mm specifically) ?

So fyi I am using Gingerstudios pattern master program to try and auto draft as much as possible. It has an option for adding an underarm gusset and completely removing the cap ease. I REALLY hate easing in set in sleeves so if I can just add an underarm gusset (Which I think I want anyway) that would be a game changer.

I have two duvet covers that are 200x200cm each that I want to turn into curtains. They are both identical covers, as I purchased them with this project in mind. I have a sewing machine.

I’ve never made curtains, or even sewn much generally. I’m still pretty much a novice, but thought curtains couldn’t be too hard to try?

I only want to use half of each duvet cover - obviously they are two panels sewn together on 3 edges, with an open edge alone the bottom with buttons/press-studs. I like the design on the front side, but not the back side - so this is the fabric I want to use as curtains.

I would ideally like to buy some blackout thermal lining fabric and use eyelet tape (I have tape and eyelet covers already).

200x200cm is longer than my window. So I don’t need to add any extra length to them (such as a header), I might even have to make them shorter so they don’t hang over my radiator - and they are plenty wide enough to create a decent pleat/drape when hung.

Does anyone have an idea on how I can achieve this?

Hi!! Following a pattern for a halloween costume. I’d say I’m getting good at sewing, and I’ve been able to understand the rest of the instructions for the pattern, but the instructions for the shorts has confused me so much.

The tattered ends are supposed to be the leg holes, but I feel like the way the pattern wants me to sew the crotch, it’d be the opposite. Can someone please help?? I really wanted to get this done tonight but I’m struggling so much

I included a photo of what the shorts SHOULD look like, too, if that’ll help

For the dress I’m making my pattern wants me to completely line my main fabric pieces with medium to heavy weight interfacing along with lining the top half of my lining (waist up). Does this seem excessive at all? It’s just a strapless mini dress that does include some boning for structure but I’ve seen people say that it’s uncommon to line an entire shell with interfacing.

Also, I actually already started to apply the interfacing to my main fabric like the pattern told me to and ended up having to remove it because I couldn’t get it to stop rippling. I can’t find any specific advice on why this could be happening. Researching this is what led me to see people saying interfacing isn’t applied in large sections like how my pattern says.

1) Do I continue trying to figure out the interfacing for my main fabric or can I just apply it to the lining instead.

2) Why is my interfacing rippling so much? My fabric is light pink with a sheen so it shows imperfections in the interfacing terribly.

3) If the structure is in fact necessary, are there other ways to achieve this without interfacing specifically?