I've made a couple of apps to solve my own problems and wanting to see if they're of use to others (yes, I wish to experiment on you and see if I've made something useful to the world).

In my specific case it was solving issues with a Panasonic SoundSlayer - a perfect piece of hardware to add Atmos to my desk setup - and riddled with annoying shortcomings, when connected to a PC (oddly its entire positioning). Should work with anything that supports CEC volume levels as 0-100.

The problem I've been solving:
1) If your monitor/TV doesn't support ARC, and you want to connect something capable of decoding Atmos or DTS to your PC, you need to connect your audio system to your PC with HDMI.

2) If your sound decoder is limited in resolution/bitrate (i.e. older HDMI standard), you can't plug your screen/monitor into it - so you end up with two connections to your GPU. One HDMI just for sound, and one HDMI/DP to connect the screen. This works - but..

3) The Sound decoder may appear as a phantom monitor - and windows will randomly move apps to it, where you can't see them.

4) Your PC has likely no CEC built in - so you're reliant on Windows controls for volume set to the audio output as a PCM stream (which is OK) - but moment you stream Atmos, windows just sends the audio stream directly to your sound system and things like volume control have to be operated directly on the audio device.
e.g. I'd switch to Netflix, Atmos would kick in, I'd be deafened by the volume and be scrabbling to find the volume buttons on the soundbar or its remote. Then when I stopped Netflix, I'd then have to put the volume back up on the soundbar.

Fuelled by annoyance and AI allowing me to code beyond my natural abilities - I've created a pair of apps to completely solve these problems. The latter of which give be the actual experience I'd wanted out of the box (if Panasonic, Microsoft & Nvidia had all got together than done things properly).

Your Options:
(both very similar lightweight c# tray apps)

https://github.com/goldcd/NOTM (Not on this Monitor)

• No hardware requirements
• Allows you to blacklist your sound device as a display. Anything that anything tries to put onto it in any way will be pushed back to your primary, real, display. No workarounds/hacks - just stops anything trying to use it as a monitor

• Audio keep-alive. If your sound device 'sleeps' and takes a few seconds to startup/handshake on new audio playback, this stops it happening. Sound just 'always works'

  https://github.com/goldcd/BarControl

• All the features of NOTM (simplified a bit) - but with added CEC controls/integration

• Needs Pulse-Eight CEC injector (here or here) and for you to install the USB driver

• This lets your PC control the sound (as well as CEC allows)

• Manual controls to turn sound system on/off and adjust volume

• CEC doesn't support absolute volume adjustment, so app reads current volume from device and user requested volume, and sends vol up/down signals to align them in a little loop (I'm just mentioning this to explain why there's a small lag)

• Automatic settings to turn sound on/off with PC waking, sleeping, starting, shutting down etc.

• Atmos volume proxy. When app detects that an exclusive mode Atmos stream is playing, it hijacks the ineffective windows volume controls, and redirects them to control the sound device via CEC. Adjusts levels so hopefully you don't notice the switch. Then when the audio stream stops, restores back to how it was before.

Sorry for the spam - but for once, I think I've made something useful there were no good previous solutions for. I want to show off my babies to the world to be adored.

I think I've run out of features and bugs - but would be more than happy for any suggestions.

Hey everyone!

I have a Blackview MP100 mini PC that I'm trying to find a worthwhile use for. Instead of selling it or using it as yet another server, I'm considering turning it into a powerful living-room entertainment system.

My hardware:

- AMD Ryzen 7 5825U (8 cores / 16 threads)

- 32 GB dual-channel DDR4 RAM

- 1 TB M.2 SSD

- 1 TB HDD

- Integrated AMD Radeon graphics

My original idea was to build my own Android TV box, essentially something with the convenience of an Apple TV or Fire TV Stick, but with much more processing power, storage and flexibility.

However, I have some very specific requirements:

1. Full Android TV / Google TV support

Ideally, I want a proper Android TV experience with Google services, the Play Store, regular updates and full compatibility with official streaming apps such as Netflix, Prime Video and YouTube.

I don't want an unofficial Android build that looks like Android TV but lacks device certification, Widevine L1, HD/4K playback or compatibility with certain apps.

Does a realistic solution like this even exist for a generic AMD x86-64 PC?

1. Everything must be controllable with a remote

This is extremely important to me. I want to use the system entirely from the couch, without ever being forced to connect a mouse and keyboard just to install system updates, update drivers, change settings or manage applications.

Ideally, everything should be accessible through a proper 10-foot TV interface, including system settings and updates.

1. I want to make full use of the hardware

Since this is essentially a fairly powerful mini PC, I'd love to go beyond basic streaming. Some possibilities I've considered are:

- A proper media center with Jellyfin and local media playback

- Retro gaming and emulation

- Installing and running PC games locally through Steam

- Android apps alongside native Linux applications

- Other useful living-room features I haven't thought of yet

I'm open to Linux-based HTPC distributions, Android-based systems, hybrid setups or completely different ideas.

The important thing is that the result should feel like a polished, high-end entertainment device, not like a cheap Android TV box or a desktop PC awkwardly connected to a television.

What would you do with this hardware? Is there a maintained, actively developed project that can realistically achieve this, or would I be better off using the mini PC for something else entirely?

I'd especially appreciate recommendations based on actual experience with streaming DRM, remote-control support, system updates and long-term maintenance.

Thanks!

I'm looking as the pile of gadgets for my HTPC setup, Hue sync box, switch, roku HD, and HD Homerun, and I'm wondering if you've found a good way of organizing these things besides just stacking them. Anyone have something they like for this? Seems like a little vertical organizer could work okay.

Processing img j9g02tvtqjxh1...

I have a new build of an older Dell Optiplex 7050 with a i5, with Intel GPU 630, HDHomerun Flex 4k, running MPC -HC with K-Lite codec pack with AC4 and an Onkyo 5.1 AVR.

How do I get the computer to output in bitstream so my AVR can provide 5.1? If running HDHR player it is only putting out PCM stereo and not AC4 5.1 or AC3 5.1. I have a few 5.1 FLAC videos on DTS that are putting out 5.1 but the HDHR player, MPC-HC, and JellyFin are only putting out PCM Stereo.

Are there sound settings in the Windows or K-Lite codec I need to set to provide a bitstream so the AVR will play 5.1?

The same files played through my Android STB that has HEVC/AC4 and Eac3 play the bitstream to the AVR in 5.1 without issue.

Yes the TV settings are set to bitstream and not PCM.

Anyone else using an old Microsoft Media Center remote? Anyone actually able to get learning mode to work? Having to use another remote to change the volume isn’t a deal breaker, but not having to do that would certainly be nice.

For everyone running a 250W HDPLEX GaN PSU, and for those who are tired of being limited to low-profile CPU coolers with low TDP capabilities just to keep their builds compact, I've recently picked up a project I've been working on over the past year!

I'm currently refining the design with the goal of publishing it on MakerWorld. The case has already been printed several times, but I've made some additional changes to improve it further. For now, here are some renders of the updated design. I'll also include a few pictures of the original version I built for myself, featuring a magnetic monitor mount, as well as a more recent print before the latest round of changes.

I genuinely think this could be one of the best cases out there when it comes to balancing airflow and compactness. It supports low-profile GPUs only, but accommodates CPU coolers up to 69 mm tall, which is considerably more than many other compact SFF cases in this size category. And the best part? It's barely over 5 litres (5.14L, to be precise haha).

Cooling options are pretty interesting, too. With a standard dual-slot low-profile GPU, such as an RTX 4060 LP or 5060 LP, there's room for:

• 2 × 80 mm fans at the front
• 1 × 80 mm fan on top
• 2 × 40 mm fans on top

These configurations use slim fans rather than standard 25 mm-thick ones.

If you're planning to use the case with an iGPU build instead, like I'm currently doing with my 8700G, you can even install two standard 80 × 25 mm fans at the bottom in place of the GPU.

I've also put a lot of thought into keeping the overall design as clean as possible. The feet use hidden magnets, so they can be removed whenever needed without leaving visible magnets on the outside. There are no visible screws or unnecessary holes on the exterior, apart from a single screw on the side panel. Everything else relies on sliding and interlocking mechanisms.

The fans are mounted on removable, thin brackets that slide into dedicated slots on the front, top and bottom panels, just like a picture in a frame. This keeps them securely in place without leaving any fan mounting screws visible from the outside.

The side panel slides off and is secured to the front panel with just a single screw as I mentioned before. The front panel itself also slides into place, making disassembly straightforward.

I'm still working on the final details, but I'm looking forward to sharing the finished project with you all!

If you're interested in my crazy projects, feel free to follow me on MakerWorld: scala3dprints

I just got an elitdesk g3 mini which I intend to use as a media center. I plan on running KDE big screen or some alternative so I want to be able to use the HDMI CEC capabilities. This mini PC comes with 2 display port outputs and no HDMI output, does anyone know how I can get HDMI CEC capabilities on this?

Hello!

I'm thinking about using a PC as my living room media/gaming PC. I'm a Linux user, and I'm wondering what y'all use for a media PC.

Do y'all simply use GNOME/KDE with a wireless kbd/touchpad combo? or are there ways to navigate with an xbox controller or universal TV remote? Is it easy to launch a game from Steam when you want to?

Hi,

My sony a90j's hdmi 3 (set up enhanced with dolby vision) is connected to my Marantz SR8015 for audio earc connection. The hdmi 4 port is connected to pS5 (set up as enhanced hdmi with vrr). I want to connect my old pc to use as htpc and for occasional gaming. I've connected the pc to the 8K port on marantz and set up the 8K port as 8K enhanced. However, I can only get 4k@60Hz this way. My understanding is that setting up hdmi with dolby vision on a90j limits it to 4k@60Hz. I'm looking at the best way to get 4k@120Hz from PC.

Option 1- Change the hdmi 3 from dolby vision to vrr. This should allow me to get 4k@120Hz. Would there be any sound/visual penalty? I've a nvidia shield connected to my marantz as well. The PS 5 is connected directly to hdmi port on TV.

OPtion 2- Buy hdmi 2.1 splitter to connect to HDMI 4 port on the TV (vrr enabled) and connect both the PS5 and PC to the splitter. Would I lose Dolby vision on pc gaming this way?

What would you choose? Any suggestions appreciated.

PS- PC specs- AMD 5900x cpu, asus b550 mb, nvidia 3080ti gpu, 64gb ram

HDMI 2.1 cables for connections, supporting up to 8K@60Hz

I noticed that when I change playback speed to any other range than 0.98-1.03x (in this range it looks to me like it doesn't stutter), the video stutters every second or so (consistently). Here are some findings:

• long-term "issue" on older versions and the latest build
• happens only with MPC Video Renderer or MadVR; Enhanced Video Renderer isn't affected
• desktop hardware (AMD Ryzen 5xxxx, Nvidia RTX 5xxx)
• 23.976FPS or 59.940FPS content
• I completely reset the settings, but it didn't help.

In case it happens, this is the info tab from MPC-VR settings:

Windows 10 22H2
DirectX 11
Graphics adapter: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 (10DE:2B85) (610.62)
VideoProcessor  : D3D11, RateConversion_0
DeinterlaceTech.: none
Reference Frames: Past 0, Future 0
Display: LG TV SSCR2 3840x2160 120.000 Hz Primary windowed
  Color: RGB 8-bit HDR10: Off

Has anyone had any issue with it or knows what could be the cause or any recommendation on what to try to change?

I have been looking for a while for a setup on my tv, as i was not very satisfied with using tv apps for plex/youtube etc.
I have seen this project a few months ago to reimplement plasma bigscreen (it used to be a project a few years ago already but got abandonded I think) and it has officially been released with KDE 6.7. So i set up an old laptop with Fedora KDE and installed it and its running great so far. VacuumTube allows adblock and sponsorblock as well. I installed a few apps, the interface can be used with controllers or KDE Connect.

https://plasma-bigscreen.org/de/

So if anyone else is looking for an easy HTPC setup, check it out.

I also found an XMB repo, though I havent checked it out, but I loved the XMB on the PS3. Anyone have experience with this? altough it seems the last commit is 3 months ago.

https://github.com/FrancescoPnr-dev/xmb-bigscreen

Would it be possible to use android as an htpc considering that android can have dp alt mode to transfer 4k 60 with hdr10 (no 10+ or dv) for content to a display/tv?

Widewine I'm not sure about but should be better than windows or linux.

It also is gonna be much more powerful than normal streaming boxes.

Downsides:

Support is unknown rn as its ive not tried any phone with a cable to check

Will need to do smth about the battery part but shouldnt be that big of a problem if its always on charge with limit set and/or bypass charging.

How viable is it?

Hi, I’d like to share my experience.

I’ve always wanted a powerful but silent gaming HTPC connected to the 77" OLED TV in my living room.

I initially chose a SilverStone GD11, but temperature-wise it was a disaster with my hardware. My GPU, an ASUS RTX 4080 SUPER Noctua Edition, was noisy as hell under load, and the whole case became incredibly hot to the touch. Even my Ryzen 9950X3D was running quite hot.

I eventually realized that the GD11 simply wasn’t big enough to keep such a powerful system cool and quiet.

I started looking for another horizontal case that would fit the available space, but without much success. In the end, the only realistic option was to use a standard mid-tower case horizontally.

After several days of research, I ended up choosing the Fractal Design Epoch - and I couldn’t be happier with the result!

Thanks to the extra internal space and much better airflow, my system no longer overheats and I can barely hear the fans spinning, even while gaming. The difference compared to the GD11 is huge.

On top of that, the Epoch looks really good when placed horizontally and fits surprisingly well with the rest of my hi-fi/home theater equipment.

For anyone trying to build a powerful, quiet gaming PC for the living room, using a good mid-tower horizontally might be a much better solution than trying to squeeze high-end hardware into a traditional HTPC case.

Can someone helps me to find tutorial or something fo my case

I have minisforum x1 late 255 (ryzen with 780m) and I want to use it for windows TV and some games

How I can do this and what I need to buy or install on pc

I want to control minisforum by tv remote

ty

I thought I'd share this because I've seen quite a few people solve similar problems by buying HDMI EDID emulators, and this is worth trying first.

My setup is a 3-display PC, with one display being my home cinema setup:

PC → Yamaha RX-A3060 AVR → Sony Bravia A90J TV

The other two are normal PC monitors.

The problem

With the AVR and TV switched off, my main PC monitor would occasionally blink/black out for a second.

Windows was effectively seeing the TV disappear and reappear on the HDMI connection. Turning the TV on stopped the blinking completely.

What fixed it for me

First, make sure the AVR has HDMI Standby/Pass Through enabled, so the HDMI connection can pass through while the AVR is in standby.

I also use direct/pass-through video on the AVR rather than having the AVR process the picture.

Then check the TV for settings that keep its control/network hardware active while the screen itself is off.

On my Sony Bravia A90J, I have:

Remote Start: On (Powered by Apps)
Simple IP Control: On

The important change for me appears to have been Simple IP Control.

With the TV switched off normally and the AVR in standby, Windows now continues to see the Sony TV correctly and the random monitor blinking has stopped.

If you have another TV brand

The exact names will obviously be different, but look for settings such as:

• IP Control
• Network Standby
• Remote Start
• Quick Start
• Network Control
• Always-on network / standby control

The idea is to stop the TV going into such a deep standby state that its HDMI presence/EDID keeps disappearing and reappearing.

This may increase standby power slightly, but it's a very easy thing to test before spending money on EDID emulators or HDMI hardware.

Hopefully this helps someone with a similar HTPC + AVR + multi-monitor setup.

My recent build, first pc build in nearly 20 years thinking about it. Due to sony's questionable decisions I made the move to pc and steam gaming. Been on playstation since the ps3, they aren't getting anymore of my money.

Knowing i wanted AMD for steam compatibility it made it 50% less work to catch up on current tech.

9600x cpu

9060xt 16gb gpu

Asrock matx steel legend board

32gb ram

Wd black 2tb nvme i took from my ps5 saving some cash.

Really like the corsair psu with the individual braided cables, makes them very flexible for routing.

Originally wanted the fractal ridge case, but no stock, plus the additional mini itx tax, the Silverstone is probably the better option. Plenty of space and better cooling.

I want a media player that pulls meta data for local files and has a UI like netflix or HBO max, a modern UI. I just hooked my PC up to my TV to play games and I figured I might as well use it for movies too. I've been looking but all the ones I find are for streaming and I want one for files that are stored on the machine. Currently I use an android box that has Nova on it.

hi I want to change my graphic from 1080ti to arc b580 because 1080ti hdmi 2.0 port can't output 10 bit full RGB 60hz . my question is in htpc wiki there is no suggestion for tone mapping and upscaling regarding arc b580 is it means it doesn't support madvr tone mapping or is it weak for that work?

in general is it a good choice for htpc?

my current build is

cpu 12700k

mb msi edge WiFi ddr4

ram 16 GB ddr4

graphic gigabyte 1080 ti OC gaming

display benq w5800 projector