Sound is worrying me. 2015 wrx.

Pic taken hours before the inevitable sticky tree secretion treatment …

Bought this car in 2016 with my hard earned money selling weed in high school, drove this car over 100,000 miles when i was done with it she needed a new clutch, blown head gaskets, low compression on cylinder 3(3rd engine), completely rotten frame underneath and strut towers.
Took it in the ditch going 65 around a mile long icy turn one time and slid sideways until i hit an approach. The 2nd engine like melted in on itself when i went between 100mph-130mph the entire (most) drive home 85/100 miles. Sold it with 325k miles on the clock for $1,000 when i was down bad on money. Good times.

Let me preface this question: I have a 2025 Outback wilderness, I bought it when my 2013 forester CVT shit the bed and I didn’t want to pay for a new CVT especially with oil consumption issues. I got the Outback cause I travel for work and needed the extra space for everything I need to live and it can haul my motorcycles. I love the wagon style.

I hate this CVT, it sucks all the fun out of Subarus and I miss the old stuff. I really want a manual. If Subaru would make a new hatch wrx I would eat the negative equity on this shitbox in a heartbeat. I know Subarus are like legos and a manual would have no issue bolting up to the FA24 but custom mounts and fab would need to be done.

With how many electronics are on these modern Subarus is it even theoretically possible to swap a TY75 into this thing or would the ecms and can protocols need to be reverse engineered?

I hate that the Outback wilderness is literally the perfect car for what I need but the CVT literally sucks so much donkey balls that it’s turned into me resenting this car completely. Thanks for reading and please let me know if it is even electronically possible to do a manual swap.

If any shop in the DFW/east Texas areas has even done this or would be willing to try doing this I would be open to communication as well.

Genuinely concerned, I couldn't miss a roo on the road and it went under my car, I only heard a slight knock but what I'm hoping is just water is dropping from my passenger side, is this something to be concerned about??

Does anyone know where I can get like a bag of p# 35057AE000 ? They sell them individually but I keep finding more places where I need them so I’m trying to figure out if I can buy a bag of them.

I’m looking for the cobb stage 2 93 ots map for my 2007 USDM WRX 5MT, AP3-SUB-002. DM please if you have!

I’ve seen stage 2 and stage2+ebcs, is the only difference between them is the ebcs?

My mod list to confirm compatibility:
Cobb SF intake
Cobb 3-port EBCS
Invidia n1 catback race exhaust
Invidia catted dp (need the tune to then install the dp)

Thanks!!!

Is there a way to safely tune and run 87 octane on a WRX? What would you have to do to pull this off? Just wondering Premium is like almost $7 a gallon right now.

I recently had the battery unplugged and next day a p0171 popped on my 2019 Wrx car drives and seems very normal only thing I found was a bit of corrosion on the maf harness
So far so good just wondering if anyone else felt with a similar issue. Thanks!!

went for a drive last night and CEL came on along with the cruise control light flashing on and off. Car drove just fine on the way home. scanned the car and got P0244. It said to replace the wastgate solenoid, but looks like this hose got chewed up. Could this be my problem? If so, anyone know the specific name of this hose? lmk! plz and thank you

Ok very specific issue for me in my 2014 STI, it started recently. I've only had my check engine light flicker on one time and it was only for like 2 brief seconds but basically the situation is this:

In any gear that isn't 4th I have good compression and throttle response. However, as of recently anytime I press the gas pedal kinda halfway in, in 4th gear, at 4k RPM, the car doesn't accelerate and my revs don't go up.

Now I have tried to replicate the check engine light but I could not do it and I also don't wanna blow an engine on purpose. I can kinda feel it though, when I hit 4K the car doesn't really move and the revs don't go up, I swear maybe even the car shudders a bit but this is definitely not normal, can't be.

I've heard misfires can be common especially with this engine but this is weird to me because so far I have consistently pinky felt that drop in power in 4th at 4K rpm with the pedal halfway down. I even tried flooring it in 4th from 3K to 6K rom and no issues.

Maybe there's just a drop in power at 4th that a tune could work out? Or is there a bigger issue here that needs to be addressed immediately?

Also: leak down and compression tests were well within margin of error as about 2 months ago.

Alao: for some reason, I was in the intelligent knob setting and when I got the CEL, the car switched itself to sport. Bad battery maybe?

TLDR: Potentially misfiring a cylinder specifically ONLY in 4th at 4K rpm with the pedal halfway to the floor. Got a CEL once, cannot replicate though. I stop trying to replicate it when I feel the car about to/is Potentially misfiring.

Previous owner had installed a Cobb flex fuel kit that is hooked up to a ibr flex fuel sensor.

I am thinking about getting tuned on atlas so I’m trying to figure out if I will be able to see the ethanol content reading?

I have a 2015 WRX with 104k miles. Oil change is coming up soon. Should I use OEM Subaru engine flush or Liqui Molly? Which one is better?

This is my first time tackling something like this, so I'd very much appreciate help.

My car (16 WRX Limited) has never had great battery life, but started dying every weekend of non use. Then it became an overnight thing. I'm trying to diagnose it with a Multimeter, and think I am seeing a 100ma draw (0.10 on the 10a setting). I've disconnected anything aftermarket, and saw no changes. I've also tested engine fuses with another Multimeter, and saw no draw. The only thing left are the big ones that I don't see a way to test.

Before I start pulling anything, I wanted to see if anybody had any insight/advice on where to look next.

Long story short, I purchased this bad girl for a pretty good price. She's got some cosmetic issues and a few mechanical. My plan was to fix her up somewhat quickly and have her as a mostly stock daily driver. But the dilemma I'm facing is that I'm starting to wonder if it's worth trying to do that, or sell it to someone for more than I bought it.

Car has just 138k miles on it and is an auto.

Heres the summary of her (known) problems below

Missing downpipe and midpipe (so no cats from there back.) Already purchased a very cheap catless full exhaust setup which I planned to just run with O2 spacers and a resistor for the up-pipe sensor because the kit came with a catless up pipe too.

Turbos exhaust turbine is chipped so will need a new turbo. Planned to purchase from A-Premium or whatever. Just a cheap like 250 buck turbo.

Misfiring bad due to P0340 code. Assuming belt is just a couple teeth off. Replaced sensor and it didn't help. Could be wiring harness too I guess. I'm just not sure if I want to tackle the timing belt myself. I hear its on the higher difficulty side of things and you can easily smoke your engine if you do something slightly wrong.

Also has the other codes shown in one of the attached photos. Any advice or suggestions would be sweet. I am not super knowledgeable at all when it comes to Subaru or any JDM cars as it is, so tips and tricks are cool.

Thanks so much, I'll try to respond quickly if anyone wants more info or anything.

I have a 04 wrx that’s been running a HKS bov for a good while and i’m starting to consider other suggestions for an alternative blow off valve or bypass valve. I am one for sound and sounding good when I’m driving by and I’ve looked at a few options and have ran several different other ones like GFB turbo, smart and Grimm speed and I am still on the top mount in a cooler as well, so just interested in seeing what other people have in my base my next decision on a new one of whatever sounds good and I’m open to both bypass and blow off valves :) video for sound clip my my scoobie

Is there a modest (V1, V2) rear spoiler that replaces the OEM lip on the 26 premium that actually fits onto the existing bolt holes? No adhesive please. I’ve looked everywhere including Subaru and everyone out there requires either gluing it on or drilling additional holes. Help or ideas please.