This is my progress since April 2026 to now (Oct 2026, for those visiting this page in the future). I got pretty much all the exterior stuff done and the stuff I want to do is pretty much just the final 5% (Reliability upgrades, minor cosmetic defects, and other stuff that isn’t hindering the reliability or function of my S2000). Honestly I need to figure out how to defeat the 180kph electronic speed limiter as this is a Japanese market S2000…

What I have done cosmetically:

- Mugen Style Hardtop

- AP2 LED headlight upgrade

- BC Racing Coilovers

- Greddy Lip and cooling plate

- Ceramic Tint

- RPF1’s (powdercoated)

I’m making this write up because I’ve been chasing this issue for 10 months. Before I stored the car for the winter I experienced the engine bogging WOT and it didnt get resolved till I changed a bunch of parts in April. Drove it well the entire summer but it was running with a p0171 code the whole time. Then in the last week of September the bog came back.

Main symptom: Under hard acceleration (past ~25% throttle), engine bogs/sputters, RPM won't climb and drops, sounds like it's drowning with a deep growl. Able to let the rpm climb to 4k light progressive throttle.

History:
Started with the engine bogging under load, P0171 + misfires on cyl 2, 3, 4. Found oil in those plug wells in December.
Replaced: plugs, coil packs, valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, fuel pump, strainer. Cleaned MAP sensor, cleaned IACV. Found/reconnected some disconnected hoses off the main breather (car ran fine for a while after all that in April.)

P0171 and pending P0411 have persisted for ~5 months since, despite everything above.
Idle relearn procedure fixed a separate idle hesitation issue.

Current fuel trim data (OBD reader):
STFT: +30–45% typically
LTFT: pinned at +19.5%, unchanged for 5 months
Under throttle: STFT drops to 0%, stays at 0% through deceleration (expected, open loop/DFC)
MAP at idle: 3.7 psi, MAP when engine off: 14.7psi.

Did a smoke test for leaks and found a leak at the IACV and a very minor leak at the TPS. I’ve replaced the IACV, and while it brought down the stft a bit it’s still high and the bog is still present. I’ve seen others have a similar issue but all threads point to something very minor or the thread is silent without a solution. Last thing on my list is to get a fuel pressure reading and to clean the injectors. If that doesn’t work I’ll need to hang my jersey up. Wondering if anyone else has ever experienced this as well.

Does anyone have the said exhausted with specifically a 70mm HFC? I currently have a Tanabe medallion but I’ve seen a sound clip of the remark single with a stock exhaust and it sounds nice and there’s one for sale near me. I currently have a berk HFC and was wondering what the exhaust would sound like? Thanks if you’re able to share

Drove M4 to local Subaru lot to check out heavily discounted BRZ tS (my last thread mentioned it). Salesman opened with "I used to work at a BMW/Honda dealership." Make small talk, tell him I'm looking for midweek canyon carver.

He looks at BMW, looks at me, and said "I've worked at dealerships and auctions a long time. I've driven everything from shit boxes to exotic V12s. And I know people. I don't think this tS will make you happy. I don't even think it's Subaru's most fun car, the turbo WRX is, but that's many steps down from your M4. I'll even cut to the chase and tell you this tS can be yours for less than what we paid (end of month, 2027 in). But I don't think you'll be happy."

I ask "if you had to pay for your own car to have a lot of fun on our local canyons what would you get?"

"Have you ever heard of a Honda S2000?"

I laugh telling him of the S2000 rabbit hole I'm in. His coworker had a red S2000 in back.

"We had a 5000 mile S2000 traded in by an elderly couple last year. It sold same day. My advice to you is find exactly what you want, BE PATIENT, don't over pay and keep it forever."

We did take the tS for a quick test drive. Nice enough car.

On the way home I saw my third S2000 ever in town. Yellow. It's a sign, ha!

Props to the original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/S2000/comments/1x9h5kr/fyi/

I became obsessed with finding some other options for the trunk. Here are my experiences:

1. Kobalt CASESTACK Slim Tool Box $29 on sale

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-KB-CaseStack-Small-Storage-Box/5016629287

Similar dimensions to the DeWalt. Fits fine, wish it were wider and a bit shorter so it doesn't poke up. Would be good for Suzuka Blue, Laguna Pearl, Apex blue.

1. Rigid Pro Gear System Gen 2.0 (small/modular) $34 on sale

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Pro-Gear-System-Gen-2-0-Stackable-Durable-Compact-Power-Tool-Box-With-Secure-Hang-Mounts-254069/320483553

Fits better. Rigid version of the DeWally and Cobalt. A little wider and shorter. It has removable separators inside and a small storage box.

1. Rigid 10-Compartment Small Parts Organizer with Removable Bins $29 on sale

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Pro-Gear-System-Gen-2-0-Stackable-Durable-Weather-Resistant-10-Compartment-Small-Parts-Organizer-with-Removable-Bins-238093/305855062

My current favorite. It's the shortest of the three. Slightly sunk in. I really like the modular bins that you can arrange in whatever way you want. Planning on putting a tire inflator and jump starter.

Hey S2000 owners,

A turbo K24-swapped AP1 and a 767 whp AP2 are pretty different takes on an S2000. Seeing what owners have put into these cars is why we keep working on this.

I first shared the project here seven months ago. Thank you to everyone who checked it out and supported it early on. <3

The idea is still to give your car one page where the setup and its history stay together. You can document the exact parts and wheel fitment, tag mods in photos, and add updates as the build changes, without having to dig through old posts whenever someone asks what's been done.

There are now 40+ S2000s on there. Here are three of the craziest builds so far:

• Spork, Kirbee's 2000 AP1 with a turbo 2.4L K24A2, verified 452 whp and 125 documented mods, including GReddy x KW coilovers and Spoon Monoblock calipers.
• Java black pearl, Kevin's turbocharged 2004 AP2 with verified 767 whp and 36 documented mods, including a Full Race turbo kit and a Grannas Racing T56 transmission kit.
• War Machine, jin N's 2002 AP1, combining lowrider, import and motorsport influences, with 27 documented mods including a Garrett G30-900, Öhlins DFV suspension and Endless TAKUMI EDITION brakes.

Stock cars and ongoing projects are welcome too. It's free to make a build page, and the app is live on iOS and Android. We're still working on it every day.

What would make a build page more useful for your S2000?

Dropped my oil pan and found this at the bottom of it . Does anyone possibly have an idea what this part is?

So I posted yesterday about a s2k I was interested in purchasing. Here are the compression test numbers. They’re consistent but I was thinking maybe a bit low? I’m not sure if the shop tested it while engine was warm. But I did test drive the car and it seemed like vtec kicked in normally, felt like my other S did. Lmk please, TIA

found it in the wild,but idk what is the bodykit

AP2 with 31k miles. Just had all fluids changed: Oil, trans, diff, brake, clutch, coolant + new Brembo rotors. I’ve owned a lot of faster cars, but few compare. What a great car….

Almost two months with my first S2K! 2006 Silverstone — picked it up at 49K, now at 50,800 miles and counting!🏁

I picked up an 05 AP2 a couple months ago and I'm looking for a shop in or around NYC that actually knows these cars. I'm based in Queens but happy to drive a bit for the right place.

I know about Billman out on Long Island, but from what I've heard he's pretty booked up and tough to get into, so I'm hoping to find some other options too.

Mainly looking for someone I can trust for general maintenance and inspections, and possibly some light work down the line. Not looking to have major work done, just general upkeep here and there.

Any recommendations (or places to avoid) would be appreciated!

My bosses car and mine. If any of you are in the time attack world you might be familiar with his shop on the banner.

2007 Honda S2000

I came across this S for sale. He was asking 18k, got him agreed for 15.6k. Clean title , 122k. Southern car no rust. Just needs a bit cosmetic fixes. Is this a good deal?

Also anyone recognize the brand of the soft top? He says it was recently replaced, but it feels very cheap.

I have a budget of about $20,000. what mileage/condition should I expect from that price range?

After being under my car this morning, I noticed all this sludgy oil in the rear and I can’t figure out where it’s coming from or why. There was a small puddle of oil underneath as well. Anyone have an idea?

All in 24 hours, this is what happened:

1 - I got my hardtop installed with glass

2 - I met Yuki Tsunoda

3 - I got ceramic tint on all my windows

(Not for sale btw)

Hi all,

as the title suggests when I was servicing my rear differential, instead of loosening, I was tightening the drain plug, which sadly led to majority of the threads being stripped.

after doing some research into possible fixes, I noticed a time cert would be a quick and almost permanent way to recreate the original threads whilst having a stronger steel insert. Which allows me to use the OEM plug. This would cost me £300 for the kit and around 2 hours of my time to make sure it’s precise. Sadly I don’t have thread specialists near me.

my other method of fixing this was to buy a new OEM differential housing and remove my differential, take off the main housing and swap it with a new one, which has the original threads. this also costs around £330 but would probably take a few hours aswell but I’m also weary incase any of the bolts are ceased.

what do you guys think is best way to approach this.

many thanks

Anyone have a suggestion for a not oem belt? Thanks.