Got a customer that brought in this cam lock, he's looking for something to fit his existing cam. The core has a larger double D shape to it. Tried looking under CCL and Chicago for some but unable to find anything myself. No one in my shop has any ideas either. Uses a AP1 keyway

Recently I’ve been having my room get invaded and getting judged for my room while I’m not home so I am deciding to buy a lock for my door that allows me to lock it from the outside that way I can lock my door when I’m leaving for work, and only have a code to lock it. I’m looking for something that can’t just be unscrewed and taken off and something that doesn’t require a key because I’m worried the person invading my room will just buy an identical key to get in anyway. Something that would be easy to install would be preferably as I’m not used to handy work

Does anybody have the depth and spacing data for the Yale Y32A / X6 profile? Or do you know of any good resources to find out this data? It’s the 1 star 6 pin cylinders they make.

I know I could manually impression but it’d be much more convenient if I could plug the data into my Xhorse machine and originate keys that way. (This profile isn’t in their database from what I can tell)

Feel free to dm me if so. I know it’s not the best to have it be public lol.

Greetings,

(context)
I have a car, & I have two keys.

~ Key 1 (Black primary) ~
Drivers door - yes
Passenger door - yes
Ignition - yes (starts car)
Trunk - no (will not turn)

~ Key 2 (maroon secondary unused)
Drivers door - yes
Passenger door - yes
Ignition - yes (starts car)
Trunk - no (Hard to go in all the way. Will not turn)

I assumed the maroon key won't go in due to lock being worn or dirty, as it'll work in all other locks.

~ Repair attempt ~
So I removed the lock, it was pretty filthy (see pic). I put it in a tin of isopropyl Alcohol & put into an ultrasonic cleaner. When I retrieved the lock, two pins+springs came out, so I put them aside. The lock wasn't fully clean so I removed the other wafers & put them in order & cleaned the rest of the lock.
Once clean & dried, I dusted the parts with some graphite, & reassembled. Lock won't turn. Some of the wafers seem to stick higher. Thinking it might be the two that fell out, I swapped them around, still no luck.

Not sure what's going on. We haven't opened the trunk in years (with the key), always with the electronic release near the drivers knee, but I'm pretty sure I recall using it in the past, so unless someone has attempted to do something with the lock & didnt put the wafers back, I don't know.

Q: If I removed the wafers, all of them. How easy is it to determine which wafer belongs to which key notch?

I don't know what else to try besides go to the local locksmith & ask, but hopefully I can determine the issue without having to spend $$$ on a locksmith.

Hello. Iam designing a safe for myself . And there are not many lock options in my area to buy from . I got this one but i dont hknow how its fitted in a safe door. Like there is nokey hole in back side. So how do i fit it any ideas or demo videos to look at. Or image of it fitted inside safe door. Thanks

I have a lock I lost the key for and am trying to get open to replace. Every locksmith I’ve contacted has been unable to help and I’ve tried various skeleton keys to no avail. Any idea?

My security screen door is missing a lock and door knob. After doing some research, I believe it uses a mortise lock so I went ahead and bought what I thought would work on ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/137802231391). However, the side plate that holds the lock is too long for my security door and the plate that covers the knob also is too long. Do anyone know the specific type of mortise lock or any lock set that would work on my security door?

Title: Need help duplicating a rare metal key — can’t find a replacement anywhere (NYC)

I have an original metal key that I’m trying to duplicate, but I’ve been having trouble finding a replacement or a compatible key blank.
I’m based in NYC and looking for someone who specializes in rare or unusual key duplication.
I’m also considering custom metal fabrication or metal 3D printing if traditional duplication isn’t possible.
Has anyone dealt with something similar? Are there any locksmiths, machine shops, or fabrication services you’d recommend?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Ho acquistato un nuki smart lock e giusto il momento di ricaricarlo , non ne vuole sapere. Qualcuno ha riscontrato lo spessore problema? Come ha risotto. Grazie

I lost both keys to my 2024 Honda CB300R. I have the actual factory key code from the original dealer purchase paperwork.

​I started calling local automotive locksmiths thinking this would be a five minute job. Every single one has some variation of the line we cut 99 percent of keys on the market on their site or on the phone. Yet across eight different locksmiths, every single one hit a brick wall on this bike.

​One looked up the code and told me his software returned four different possible cuts and that he would need me to unbolt and bring in my ignition and seat locks to decode them by hand. Another told me he had the laser wave blank on his truck but his machine could not originate that cut from a code. Even dedicated online motorcycle code cutters told me they cannot do this key.

​What makes these newer Honda wave keys such an outlier for locksmiths?

​Is the code series not published in standard software databases like InstaCode? Do common CNC key machines not have the specific clamping jaws or cut profiles for this bike?

​Just genuinely curious from a locksmith perspective why having the exact manufacturer key code and the exact blank in hand still makes this key part of the rare 1 percent nobody can touch.

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

After running my own mobile (mostly) commercial locksmith business for a little over a decade, I’m taking a break from it and making the transition to an institutional locksmith position at a large university.

I’m excited for the change but curious to hear from anyone who’s made a similar move or currently works in higher education.

What should I expect, what are the biggest adjustments, and is there anything you wish you knew before starting?

Any tips, advice, or insight would be greatly appreciated!

Any help is greatly apprecicated

I think I know the answer to this, but I just created a Manual system in HPC Masterking that I designed myself because it was too many tiers and direct changes to do in List mode.

Despite being many tiers, it's on the smaller side (less than 50 cores), so I'm fairly confident I avoided any phantom/ghost keys, but is there a way for Masterking to flag any in a Manual project? I'm fairly new to the program.

Just moved in to a new home and need to rekey all the locks. How do I find a replacement cylinder for this? I tried googling it but couldn’t figure it out

I’m trying to replace the deadbolt in my metal entry door. It is not mortised in any way, and this is what is currently in there. I’ve tried image searching and every term I can think of. What should I be searching for? Current one is made by Schlage if that helps. Thanks.

Hey team, this has been an issue for a bit, but after mucking about with my front door I'm feeling a bit more confident at tackling my bedroom door, it's just a spring latch but the spring seems to be broken/not working, just wondering if anyone could help guide a bit in getting it fixed.

As seen in the video, the plastic circle with a square insert is supposed to retract the latch, but clearly doesn't have any tension to do so. I'm pretty good with breaking apart and putting stuff back together but would like some guidance. Thanks team!

(Also, excuse the fingernails, I just did a dirty wash on a helldivers B-01 Tactical Armour cosplay and the wash managed to get in my gloves 😔)

95% of the locks I interact with are Kwikset or Defiant. The most basic key on earth. I am wasting a ton of time driving to various hardware/key cutting shops and would really like the ability to copy basic house keys while I am on the road or in the office. Is there a basic setup you would recommend?

Preferably something with a motor that I can program and let it get to work while I am free to do other tasks.

Previous locksmith did not finish rekey and left w parts. Does anyone know where we can get a Schlage keyed gate switch like in the picture. Metro wants $750 bucks for replacement. I have keyed dozens of these but don’t have any extra parts. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Even the smart pro is removing some models it could previously do. The boss has procrastinated and now may be forced to do it lol.

Can anyone tell me if this lock is obstructed? The local locksmith is telling me that the brass tube in there is supposed to swing out of the way when the key hits it. All it does is prevent the key blank from entering. It almost looks like it was soldered in place, but it could just be marks from keys being blocked by it. This is the type of lock that uses ball bearings atop the pins...Any information is much appreciated thanks!

I am a locksmith apprentice in California. Our company has an old hpc machine and it's depth is off, after servicing didn't work the company decided it's better to buy a new machine. We're specifically looking for something that cuts Sargent, Yale, Corbin, kaba peaks. Things of that nature. We have a few blue punches that cut schlage and even small format. I called one locksmith and he recommended the ITL 950cm. Was just curious what other locksmiths think. Thanks everyone!!!!

My grandfather recently passed away and left behind his locksmith workshop.

I’m currently going through everything and found a large collection of unused key blanks, as well as various key-cutting machines and other locksmith equipment.

He was actively working as a locksmith until around 2014–2016, so most of these key blanks are likely over 10 years old, possibly even older.

There are blanks for both car keys and regular door locks. Some of the brands I’ve found include JMA, Errebi, Orion, and Silca.

I’m not a locksmith myself, so I have no idea whether any of this still has value or if there’s even a market for these older key blanks.

Would it be worth trying to sell everything, either individually or as a bulk lot? Or would I be better off just selling it all for scrap metal?

I’d really appreciate any advice on what I should look out for, whether some of these blanks might be rare or valuable, and where I could potentially sell them.
Thanks in advance for any help!

A little update on my old Baldwin mortise lock, and unfortunately I’ve run into another problem.

When I went to the locksmith to buy a replacement spindle, I mentioned that the cylinders were difficult to screw into the lock body and that I had to use tools to get them in. They offered to re-tap the threads, so I brought the lock back today to have that done.

After re-tapping, the locksmith told me that the threads on my original cylinders were damaged, which was why they wouldn’t screw in properly. They recommended replacing the cylinders, but they only had one replacement available in a brass/gold finish.

Since one of my original cylinders could still be screwed in by hand, I decided to replace just the exterior cylinder and keep the original Baldwin cylinder on the inside.
The replacement cylinder isn’t a Baldwin. The locksmith said Baldwin cylinders are much more expensive. The new cylinder is also longer than the original, so they gave me a spacer ring to make up the difference.

When I got home and tried to install everything, I ran into two problems:
The spacer ring seems too large and doesn’t fit properly around the threaded portion of the new cylinder. I ended up leaving it off, but without it, the new cylinder screws in too far and leaves insufficient room for the interior cylinder.
The original interior cylinder now won’t screw in at all, even though it was possible to install it before the re-tapping.

I’m not sure what my best next step should be.
Should I just replace both cylinders with aftermarket ones? Is there a significant difference in quality or durability between original Baldwin cylinders and generic replacements?
I’d prefer to keep as much of the original hardware as possible, but I also want everything to fit and function properly.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!