Title: Need help duplicating a rare metal key — can’t find a replacement anywhere (NYC)

I have an original metal key that I’m trying to duplicate, but I’ve been having trouble finding a replacement or a compatible key blank.
I’m based in NYC and looking for someone who specializes in rare or unusual key duplication.
I’m also considering custom metal fabrication or metal 3D printing if traditional duplication isn’t possible.
Has anyone dealt with something similar? Are there any locksmiths, machine shops, or fabrication services you’d recommend?

Any advice would be appreciated!

I lost both keys to my 2024 Honda CB300R. I have the actual factory key code from the original dealer purchase paperwork.

​I started calling local automotive locksmiths thinking this would be a five minute job. Every single one has some variation of the line we cut 99 percent of keys on the market on their site or on the phone. Yet across eight different locksmiths, every single one hit a brick wall on this bike.

​One looked up the code and told me his software returned four different possible cuts and that he would need me to unbolt and bring in my ignition and seat locks to decode them by hand. Another told me he had the laser wave blank on his truck but his machine could not originate that cut from a code. Even dedicated online motorcycle code cutters told me they cannot do this key.

​What makes these newer Honda wave keys such an outlier for locksmiths?

​Is the code series not published in standard software databases like InstaCode? Do common CNC key machines not have the specific clamping jaws or cut profiles for this bike?

​Just genuinely curious from a locksmith perspective why having the exact manufacturer key code and the exact blank in hand still makes this key part of the rare 1 percent nobody can touch.

Greetings,

(context)
I have a car, & I have two keys.

~ Key 1 (Black primary) ~
Drivers door - yes
Passenger door - yes
Ignition - yes (starts car)
Trunk - no (will not turn)

~ Key 2 (maroon secondary unused)
Drivers door - yes
Passenger door - yes
Ignition - yes (starts car)
Trunk - no (Hard to go in all the way. Will not turn)

I assumed the maroon key won't go in due to lock being worn or dirty, as it'll work in all other locks.

~ Repair attempt ~
So I removed the lock, it was pretty filthy (see pic). I put it in a tin of isopropyl Alcohol & put into an ultrasonic cleaner. When I retrieved the lock, two pins+springs came out, so I put them aside. The lock wasn't fully clean so I removed the other wafers & put them in order & cleaned the rest of the lock.
Once clean & dried, I dusted the parts with some graphite, & reassembled. Lock won't turn. Some of the wafers seem to stick higher. Thinking it might be the two that fell out, I swapped them around, still no luck.

Not sure what's going on. We haven't opened the trunk in years (with the key), always with the electronic release near the drivers knee, but I'm pretty sure I recall using it in the past, so unless someone has attempted to do something with the lock & didnt put the wafers back, I don't know.

Q: If I removed the wafers, all of them. How easy is it to determine which wafer belongs to which key notch?

I don't know what else to try besides go to the local locksmith & ask, but hopefully I can determine the issue without having to spend $$$ on a locksmith.

Hello. Iam designing a safe for myself . And there are not many lock options in my area to buy from . I got this one but i dont hknow how its fitted in a safe door. Like there is nokey hole in back side. So how do i fit it any ideas or demo videos to look at. Or image of it fitted inside safe door. Thanks

Ho acquistato un nuki smart lock e giusto il momento di ricaricarlo , non ne vuole sapere. Qualcuno ha riscontrato lo spessore problema? Come ha risotto. Grazie

My security screen door is missing a lock and door knob. After doing some research, I believe it uses a mortise lock so I went ahead and bought what I thought would work on ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/137802231391). However, the side plate that holds the lock is too long for my security door and the plate that covers the knob also is too long. Do anyone know the specific type of mortise lock or any lock set that would work on my security door?

Any help is greatly apprecicated

I think I know the answer to this, but I just created a Manual system in HPC Masterking that I designed myself because it was too many tiers and direct changes to do in List mode.

Despite being many tiers, it's on the smaller side (less than 50 cores), so I'm fairly confident I avoided any phantom/ghost keys, but is there a way for Masterking to flag any in a Manual project? I'm fairly new to the program.

Got a customer that brought in this cam lock, he's looking for something to fit his existing cam. The core has a larger double D shape to it. Tried looking under CCL and Chicago for some but unable to find anything myself. No one in my shop has any ideas either. Uses a AP1 keyway

After running my own mobile (mostly) commercial locksmith business for a little over a decade, I’m taking a break from it and making the transition to an institutional locksmith position at a large university.

I’m excited for the change but curious to hear from anyone who’s made a similar move or currently works in higher education.

What should I expect, what are the biggest adjustments, and is there anything you wish you knew before starting?

Any tips, advice, or insight would be greatly appreciated!

Recently I’ve been having my room get invaded and getting judged for my room while I’m not home so I am deciding to buy a lock for my door that allows me to lock it from the outside that way I can lock my door when I’m leaving for work, and only have a code to lock it. I’m looking for something that can’t just be unscrewed and taken off and something that doesn’t require a key because I’m worried the person invading my room will just buy an identical key to get in anyway. Something that would be easy to install would be preferably as I’m not used to handy work