Selling this engine for someone who had it built by a shop a number of years ago. They didnt get around to completing the build because life took over, but now they are in the hospital and need the money so im trying to help them out. The engines completely fresh and never been started. Crank turns smoothly.

Unfortunately they dont remember everything about the build and when I contacted the shop they dont keep invoices back that far. but here are the details we can prove:

Chevy 454 bored out to 460, 2 bolt main

9.5 compression ratio

PRW 1.7 aluminum roller rockers 7/16" studs

Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum heads (6045 oval port, 110cc, 2.19/1.88)

KB 203.030 Performance Pistons

Rotating assembly balanced

Performance cam (took off the timing chain gear and wasnt able to see the part number on the front of the cam and not sure im up for pulling the cam back with my limited mechanical skills to get the part number on the other end)

What can be causing this, it seems like it's not getting enough fuel at acceleration or the air to fuel mixture is not correct. Please forgive my ignorance. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Had a machine shop do my Honda b20b block decked bored .5mm and align-honed, got the block back and noticed this in cylinder 3. It’s rough, finger nail does catch. But it doesn’t go through the sleeve. Any machinist that can give me input. All motor.

I know its TTY but come on, really. Can I not just tighten this mf down and call it a day? The crank is keyed so the pulley isnt going anywhere. Edit: okay ill stop being lazy and go buy one.

Recently started my turbo 3sge for the first time, and was running pretty well for a base tune, a little rough and the afr was jumping around a little but otherwise wasn’t too bad. Had to pull the head for a separate reason, but I noticed cylinder 2 had excessive carbon build up compared to the other cylinders which looked relatively clean with no carbon at all.

Can anyone help me pinpoint what might be the cause of this? The cylinder walls looked alright, a couple of very fine vertical markings but nothing that catches your nail. Spark plugs have all been gapped correctly and the tip looked fine, but the base was covered in soot. Haven’t done a compression test yet but I don’t think that would be a cause, only other thing I can think of is it’s either cause of the injector for cylinder 2 might be faulty or possibly because it just needs to be tuned properly.

***Photo for reference is posted. I did clean the cylinder before taking it so it was worse than what’s in the photo.

Thanks in advance for any advice

2014 STI in Ontario Canada

Second owner

mods are COBB DOWNPIPE - CATTED W/ GESI CONVERTER, INVIDIA Q300 STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST, COBB SF INTAKE with box, AEM 340LPH, open source tune on a dyno with dyno sheet in pictures

Currently rebuilding my own EJ257 from ringland failure that caused me to deal with uncle Rodney.
I pulled out what I thought was a factory size piston but it was a 99.75mm piston out of a 100mm bore and my ring gap from the old ring was at 0.30mm.

Pressure test from 2 years ago were at 150 psi with only with cylinder at 145 psi.

A general question on how cooked am I? Ideas? General humor and some degeneracy is welcomed granted something helpful is said afterwards.

And has anyone ever come across this act of blasphemy when rebuilding before since my tuner did say it looks like my block was apart before.

Sr20det vtc

scoring on one of my camshaft journals as well as the camshaft and on the cam cap

On the journal it only goes as far as the blue drawing but I can ever so slightly catch it with my fingernail on all and it doesn’t feel necessarily smooth when putting my finger over it

Can I just send it or do I need to do something with my head

Any help is greatly appreciated

Building a somewhat budget motor for 66 mustang coupe with wc t5. Likely a good weather daily so reliability is a concern. My goal is 250/270 rwhp or about 300 at crank. I was planning on using a 2000 explorer 5.0, swapping in a mild cam(maybe even stock ho mustang cam) and some budget aluminum heads and calling it a day, but there is quite a bit more that goes into deciding then I expected.Afr 185s kill low end? 2.02 valves cause interference? Flo teks junk? I understand this is mostly googleable and apologies if this is common knowledge. I have been researching but value individual opinions on this. Thank you!

tldr
reliable 300 hp on a roller 302 mild cam, good heads at or under $1.4k

Hi all, I have a new Comp Cams 280H Magnum camshaft with some DLC lifters that I will be breaking in in my 350 SBC. The sheet I got from them states that the spring pressures during break-in should not exceed 110-120 lbs. on the seat and 260-270 lbs. open. The springs on my new Flotek 102-505 heads are 120 lbs. on the seat and 290 lbs. open, so I'm not sure it's a good idea to use these even though they're only 10-30 lbs. above what Comp Cams recommends. Also, these are single springs (just a damper in the center), so I can't remove any outer one. Would it be possible to use the stock springs and retainers from my old 462624 heads (from a 1980 Z28)? The stock spring diameter is about 0.200" smaller than the Flotek springs, install height is about the same I believe. Not sure what the exact pressures are. If not, what springs should I get for break-in? Thanks

Snout is stamped 55404 4.500 194E. The mallory is worth a little, but assuming it doesn't have any damage, would this be worth anything?

Hello im rebuilding my engine and im putting sealed power e920x rings in it and i need to know witch grit of ball hone i need to buy, everything i haven't really found anything with others using them. I asked this question on summit and someone said I want a 240. If I ask Google it goes back and fourth on 240 or 320. Its a 4in bore.

I'm at the edge of what I know trying to build a small block ford. I have an F-303 cam matched to gt-40 p heads and the piston to valve clearance (0.065) is just below what I can find is "the minimum" (0.08). is it close enough to just run with? Should I buy thicker head gaskets to force the clearance and lose some compression? Any advice appreciated.

Picked this head up for cheap. It has been sitting for a bit and has some surface rust on the valve guides and valves. Is there any way to clean this off? Should I completely disassemble the head or can I soak it in something?

Do these bearings look like I should send them or not? They are ACL race series bearings, the engine had clearances checked by a race machine shop, and I plastigauged to double check. I used Lucas assembly lube instead of the lubriplate I normally use - it made the crank difficult to turn, and then after sitting, impossible. Took me two tries to figure out that it was the lube that was getting sticky. It appears that during two assemblies the black coating was removed by the super sticky shearing of the Lucas lube. The crank spins now with lubriplate - but do I need to buy new bearings or are these ok? The black lines / removal of material is not scoring that I can tell - i cannot feel anything on the bearing and it sort of looks like the black coating was just not worn off there. The crank was never rotated dry and was turned using a 10” wrench - it was very stiff after sitting so I assume that is when this happened.

Currently in the middle of an engine build out of the vehicle, probably wont make it back into the 4runner before winter hits. What can I do to ensure the engine is well lubed through the winter before installing it in the spring? Coat every moving part in assembly grease? Wait to pull the pin on the belt tensioner/ install belt later so it doesnt deform and cams are under tension? What else can I do to make sure initial start up sequence is good to go after the 5vzfe been sitting for awhile?

Machine shop messed up my previous block while honing. Decided to do my research and give it a try myself, happy with results.

On an old BMW M30 with 200k + miles.. Used diesel for lubricant in a garden spray jug from harbor freight, and a lisle stone hone attached to harbor freight drill.

This was the worst cylinder in terms of wear and honing needed to get imperfections out, and im sitting right at 0.1mm piston to wall clearance, which im happy with for a DIY job using junkyard parts for a weekend back road driver thatll be driven very hard. The rest even better, in the 0.8mm - 0.9mm range.

So I rebuilt my engine and then once I got it in and started it sat for another 3 months due to transmission issues and all together the car has been sitting for about a year with a full tank and when I parked it after a short test drive it had white smoke coming from the exhaust and I was wondering if this is normal for a while after a rebuild or maybe it’s from the fuel sitting soo long? Or is it something going wrong? If anyone could help that would be great thank you

I had this project car out for a few months. Thought I covered it properly but it turns out cylinder 3 looks like this. Do I just get a new block at this point?

Checking the oil pump, replacing the seals and getting the timing cover fitted. The engine rebuild continues...

Took the oil pan off my '95 M3 and noticed a few cracks on the bottom. They don't seem to go all the way through, and I don't think there was any oil leaking from them, although it's hard to say since there were definitely other oil leaks that made it hard to tell for sure. I was gonna take it to get a baffle welded in - should I have the cracks welded, run as-is, or get a new pan?

I have an 05 Silverado, 4x4, basic truck… I want to put a cam, maybe turbo maybe not. Really don’t know past a cam. I’ve changed a transmission in this so I have my old one I could potentially beef up and throw back in if need be. My question/questions is where do I start to know what I need to upgrade? I don’t even know what questions to ask. So once I throw a cam in it what else? Never built an engine so don’t know where to start or what to ask. I want this truck to sound good and be pretty fast/ put me back in my seat. Any advice or videos to help me know more on engine building in general as well is appreciated!