From Season 2 Ep 1

I bought it for 30€ + free Hoya skylight filter and the original leather case. Che camera it seem well maintained all the speed works fine the rings on the lens are smooth , I only changed the lighting seal and I’m waiting to buy some rollers, any tips for starting? I’ve been doing some light digital photography with my phone and some point and shots digital camera and I’ve some basic knowledge about iso shutter speed exposure ecc so this is also my first true camera

After shooting with my mamiya 7 I really want to try a range finder for 35. Obviously my mind immediately goes to a Leica but Jesus Christ so expensive. I was looking at the Nikon sp as an alternative. Any recs? My other more affordable dream camera while not a tangerine is the Nikon f3 for waist level viewing. Do I just get that instead? Too many things to buy not enough money

Im looking at buying a Praktica MTL3 second hand for around 70 CAD. Description says the following:

PRAKTICA MTL3 from 1978

c/w Pentacon auto 50 mm /f 1.8 Lens

New Light Seals

New Light meter Battery

Hard Shell Case

If I get this camera it will be my introduction into 35mm film photography, after having shot digital for around 2 years. Im just wondering if this is a good deal, if there is anything I need to know about the camera, whether or not this would be good for a beginner, and what I should be checking when I meet up with the seller. Thanks everyone!

I would like to start this off by stating that this is not a post attacking a single person. This is a rant / warning that I hope will reach most people looking into Instant backs for medium format cameras / Instax backs.

"The ol' JollyScam" as people here have rightfully started to refer to it as, is a company that started off making DIY pinhole and toy cameras and attempted to branch off into Instax backs for MF film cameras over a year ago. I've been an unfortunate passenger on this journey only since March 2026, when I ordered a back for my Bronica SQ-A.

TLDR : JollyLook has been taking people's pre-order money for over a year now, with no real product updates, constant delays of the estimated shipping window, and dodging refund requests while disabling reviews after a wave of 1-star. This is most likely only incompetence and not an outright scam, but do not buy from them without being aware of this pattern. Buy at your own risk !

Edit 28/10 : it has come to my attention that backers of the original 2017 kickstarted have still not received their cameras… 6 years later, a few kickstarters, and 6 pre-order rounds of new products and they still haven’t fully completed their first campaign…

My order, a timeline :

14th of March 2026 : I placed my order for the JollyLook Instax back for Bronica SQ-A, with an estimated shipping window of May 2026 at the time. I pressed the buy button, and forgot about it for the better part of 2026.

18th of August 2026 : I remembered about this order randomly. It had completely slipped my mind as I had not received a single communication from JollyLook, neither for my order or for advertising of any sort. We are now 157 days since the order date, and a good 3 months after the original shipping estimate. I sent an email asking for a prompt refund as I had lost trust in the company. The same day, Kate from the JollyLook team replied apologizing for the delay and lack of communication, and "forwarded my request to the team responsible for processing refunds". To which I followed up by thanking them for the swift reply and good conclusion. Conclusion ? Well, not really...

27th of October 2026 : I had, once again, forgotten to check up on JollyLook's promise in a while (you'll see a pattern here, and we'll circle back to it later). I went to check the current estimated shipping window for the Instax back, saw that they had been delayed once again to November 2026 and decided to go look if more people had shared their experiences with the company. A reddit comment about issues getting a refund prompted me to go check my bank statements to see if the refund had actually been issued, and I wasn't very surprised to find out that it hadn't. We are 70 days since their promise of a refund, 227 days since my order was placed, and nearly 6 months after the original shipping estimate. At this point my tone changed and I emailed them firmly asking for my money back. This is unfortunately an ongoing story, so I will be coming back to update this post when relevant to maybe guide people who are stuck in this situation.

The JollyScam reputation, and why it's mostly deserved :

Through my research, I have found a few testimonies, reviews, and opinions from customers of JollyLook but never a single thread compiling this information and helping people decide whether to order or not from them. This is what this section will be, with my personal research and some numbers to put things in perspective.

Most people mentioning JollyLook online, aside from posts about their pinhole cameras (which do exist), are talking about the shipping dates that keep moving. Most report ordering an Instax back, tolerating the delayed shipping for a few months or forgetting about it, asking for a refund once enough was enough, and not always getting said refund.

If you remember my timeline with them, this happens to match what everyone else has experienced. And I would theorize that the lack of direct push-communications is not an accident. Some customers complained that by the time they gave up on Jolly and wanted a refund, JollyLook either ghosted them or denied them, while their banks decline the dispute because the charge was too long ago. The lack of communication seems to benefit JollyLook because people cannot dispute the charge once they give up. It could also be beneficial to them if they simply do not have the cash reserves to refund many customers since if people forget they ordered the product, they won't be asking for a refund.

Now, this is all just user feedback, and we are on reddit, so we cannot take everything written here at face value... Unless it comes straight from that company! To make this post a little more tangible, I will try my best to collect a timeline of JollyLook's promises since launch :

• a year ago : They affirmed in this post that "January isn't a guess, it's based on parts already in production." while talking about the RB67 backs.
• November 2025 : This archive of the progress page shows estimated shipping dates for the RB, SQ, and ETR backs respectively at November, December, and early December (2025). The ETR backs are noted here as "Final tests completed" which implies the next step is production and shipping.
• 9 months ago (Jan/Feb 2026) : JollyLook officials say in this post that the RB67 and ETRS backs should start shipping "3 to 4 weeks from now". So roughly in march 2026.
• 9 months ago again : JollyLook says about the Bronica SQ backs, in this post, that "This project is not being scrapped. It is in production right now. Bodies are being printed*, and assembly is next.*". So 9 months ago bodies were being printed.
• Dead silence since then, at least publicly. Their progress website is still being updated, but nothing more than a few words and no images (Please point out other big promises I may have missed in the replies). It is notable however that they have removed the ability to make reviews on their product after being bombarded by 1-star reviews complaining of the issues discussed here.

What to make of this timeline ? Well JollyLook made promises and defended themselves in this very subreddit until 9 months ago. None of these promises have ever been fulfilled. Not a single one of the RB67 backs that were supposed to ship "3 to 4 weeks from now" back in February has reached a customer (feel free to correct me on this if anyone can find a reliable source, but even JollyLook doesn't claim to have delivered any). We have heard many promises and many excuses, some of them valid, but no results. Their words say "We are not a scam, this is not vaporware" but their actions (and history) do not prove their legitimacy.

Scam ? ... or incompetence ?

This is the part where I will make my stance and the goal of this post very clear because I wish to avoid entering defamation territory.

There are reports of customers asking for a refund and receiving it. There are also reports of customers being ignored when asking for a refund, or being told that the refund will have to wait as all the company's cash reserves have been invested in the production of the pre-ordered items. I personally fit in the category where my request was slightly dodged by accepting it but never processing it.

All of the signs here seem to point to one conclusion in my eyes : JollyLook is ran by people who do not understand marketing, engineering, business, or all of the above. They took pre-orders while having no real idea of how to bring the products to market, made idealistic promises, and they now lack the cash to refund the unhappy customers.

All of the excuses they lay out are very fair and regular things that can happen when trying to create a product from nothing. And so I cannot outright blame them or accuse them of scamming people.

The problem with them is that they cannot, for the life of them, stop making promises that they cannot keep. People do not want to see a shipping date get pushed back by a month every month. They want a proper post, telling them what's new (good and bad), and a realistic conservative shipping estimate. I mean this is business / PR 101, if you think you can ship by July : you announce august or even September. If it's ready by July, then it's an early delivery and you get happy customers. With the current process they use, it will always look like a scam.

To make a sidenote about something they said 9 months ago ("Why keep posting everywhere that we are scammers ?") : If it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, people will call it a duck, or a scam in this situation.

I get their frustration at being called a scam by everyone online for the last year but they need to take a step back, look at the full picture, and adopt changes. The company used to just make pinhole cameras and Instax development units, which shipped and were actual products, so they are able to actually ship products to customers (mostly, look into their kickstarter history here ti see what I mean).

Conclusion :

The company has a shady past, with subpar PR management and an awful track record for fulfilling orders on time. The products seem to be real as they used to post pictures of the early RB back prototypes and videos of other Instax backs in working order. So if you still wish to pre-order (or back the company, if we call it what it is) despite these warnings, just keep in mind you may wait a year or more before receiving what you paid for.

A final word for the [u/Jollylook](u/Jollylook) team : Take the harsh feedback from users as a testament that people WANT this product. They want it so they get mad when they think they're being scammed. They want their money back because they want to invest in another project making a similar product. The market is here, and your product has its place in it, you just have to bring it there without losing all your customers in the meantime.

Hi everyone - I recently swapped out my old P&S for a Contax T2 to have something more compact with a higher quality lens. I'm still a budding photographer with a lot to learn, but I've been so disappointed roll after roll with how the shots are turning out with this camera. I have no expectation for the camera to do all the work or perform miracles with it being from the 90s. Just looking to get some advice or input here.

AF Issues: I knew from pre-purchase reviews that the AF can be clunky, but I've been shocked at how often it misses in a roll. I've always followed the rule of half pressing and recomposing prior to shooting. However, that doesn't seem to help much with making sure that my subjects stay in focus, even if they're smack dab in the middle of the AF eye. Am I missing something here, or is it really that bad? Reference the shots labeled 1, 2, 5 (blurred face for privacy; however, you can still see how out of focus it is from the sweatshirt), and 6 in the bottom right corner.

• A funny thing that I've noticed is that the AF has FAR more hits with B&W film over color. The photos seem infinitely sharper, the subjects tend to always be in focus, and the exposure is much better.

Exposure: I feel like a lot of my shots end up having exposure issues where I lose a lot of detail or end up with washed out colors. A lot of reviews mentioned softer shots with the T2. What I'm getting back regularly seem too soft and off-color from what my previous P&S or Canon AE-1 would've produced. Reference the shots labeled 3 and 4.

Film = Portra 400 & TMAX 400.

Thoughts?

I spoke with a few people at film stores in Tokyo that recommended selling the T2 for a Yashica/Kyocera T4/T5 for a better P&S still with a Zeiss lens. If anyone owns a T4/T5, would love to get your opinion.

I'm new to this and got back my first photos from developing only to realize the film was never exposed at all. Im thinking i might have been dumb and fidgeted on all the knobs and buttons on the camera and I might have turned this rewind switch. Would this have maybe loosened the film, making the advancement lever not actually advancing the roll? I hope you understand my question, English is not my first language

Shot on pentax MX 50mm f/1.7

As the title says pretty much! I've been thinking about starting to develop my own film recently literally the next day, a post came up on my local buy nothing group about a whole box of old darkroom equipment. I've never responded to a post so quickly!

However I'm a bit unprepared as I haven't had a chance to do any research yet about equipment, set up etc. From a quick search, the only one here that I can see discussed in more recent video guides is the Paterson tank, the others I haven't seen discussed much. Is this because they're just very old, and in that case are they very outdated?

Essentially I just wanted to see if anyone has any advice on which of these development tasks to keep, and any experience using any of them!

I shoot both 35mm and 120mm, b&w and colour

Thanks

Hey everyone,

I’ve been shooting with a Zenit 122 paired with an MC Helios-44M-5 lens, using Fujifilm C200. I recently got some results back, and I feel like my photos just aren't as sharp as they should be. They seem a bit soft overall.

I know the Helios 44M-5 has that vintage Soviet character and can be naturally soft when shot wide open, but I’m trying to figure out if this level of softness is normal for this combo.

Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be a focusing screen calibration issue on the Zenit, mirror slap, a scanning issue from the lab, or simply the limitation of the lens itself?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/2003299-REG/harman_technology_1182744_griffin_200_color_negative.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/2003300-REG/harman_technology_1182766_griffin_200_color_negative.html

Hi all, with the Nikon F3, in terms of flash mounts, what are my options? I tried bidding on a Nikon AS-4 on eBay and lost unfortunately, so I know AS-4 is an option, what else? As they're seemingly quite hard to find in the UK...

Got this minolta for a steal but it seems to have a really small speck of fungus, is that even fungus or is that damage on the lens, anyway to fix this? Camera seems to be in great condition otherwise

I've owned nearly everything at one point or another. If you're looking for cameras that won't break the bank (i.e. not Leica, not Rollei, not Hassie, and not Mamiya 6/7) to use while wearing glasses, here is what I won currently. I *could* afford the expensive cameras, and I do still have an M5 kicking around, but I find I hesitate to take those valuable relics out in the field.

35mm Rangefinder Slot

Top Pick: Fujica V2 (45mm lens), second place: Olympus 35SP, and if wider is required, Canon VIL with finder set to the "35" position where magnification is 0.65x. Yes, the Minolta CLE, Leica CL, and the later Bessa cameras are all great with glasses. I have owned a broken copy of every one of those. Rangefinders are mostly older and not designed for eye relief. The V2 was a very expensive camera back in the day, and it shows in the viewfinder.

35mm Manual Focus SLR Slot

Nikon F3HP, second place, Canon New F1 with Speed Finder Fn, and in the bang-for-your-buck 3rd place, Canon AL-1. The F3HP wins because it is a normal form-factor, while the Canon has a much better view at the cost of size. Because of the contrast-detect focus confirmation in the AL-1, Canon shrunk the magnification slightly, making the eye relief very good. Just get a motor grip with it, the battery door sucks.

127 TLR (for lack of viable 35mm option):

Topcor Primo Jr. stands alone, with a custom Rick Oleson Brightscreen MPD. Shoot Reflx Lab Fortuna C200 ($11/roll) or Reflx Lab PAN 400 ($9/roll). The Primo Jr. gives you that F/2.8 lens to help with screen brightness.

120/220 Rangfinder

GW680iii is what I own, and it's 3rd place overall for glasses, with the GM670 being the best (better than Mamiya!) and GW670iii in 2nd place. Why do I own the 6x8? I like the 40mm focal equivalent on the 680 and I still have no issue using it with glasses. The GS645/GS645S are dying - the internal plastic is decomposing, so even though they're great for eye relief, I don't recommend them. None of the "50s folders" have good eye relief. The Konica Pearl IV is nice just like the Konica IIIA, but not good for glasses with that 1.0x magnification. Why are the Fujica 6x7 versions better? Simple, same viewfinder as the 6x9s, but they pull the frame lines inward. The wide GSW versions are worse for eye relief, as are the gen1/gen2 fixed lens versions.

120/220 SLR

Bronica ETRSi is what I own, and the Bronica SQ-AI is at least as good when both are fit with the AE Prism III and a Rick Oleson screen. They beat every Mamiya 645 body, even the newer ones that supposedly have a "high eyepoint" like the 645E. I still have a 645E in my "sell" pile. The Bronicas match the RZ and RB, and beat the Pentax 6x7 and 67. The Pentax 67ii wins against the Bronicas, by a hair, but I'd rather have the smaller frames and lighter setup of the Bronica. The S2A fit with an Oleson and 45-degree prism beats the ETRSi, but that's splitting hairs. My ETRSi is from 2002 and weighs much less than the bigger 6x7 and 6x6 options.

120/220 TLR

Mamiya C330 retrofit with Kiev 88 45-degree metered viewfinder via nylon-12 printed adapter. Again, Oleson screen (see the pattern?). I prefer 65mm for 6x6, so only this and the C220 series will do.

As far as autofocus SLRs, those are easy, just go ask AI. AI will literally tell you exact eye relief in mm of any AF SLR. I favor the Nikon F100 because it has 22mm eye relief. I share the 35D and 24-85D across the F3, F100, and Sony A7CII. Why the Sony? It has better performance with adapted AF-D lenses and it's a rangefinder style body. I find it stupid the way vendors still put the EVFs in the middle of cameras like a prism. The only modern lenses I own are a 28-200mm Tamron 28-200mm and a Samyang 14mm I use for astro.

Anyway, I just thought there might be some people out there that wear glasses and this may save them some time. Happy shooting!

Just found this online. Take this quiz on a computer because it uses a spreadsheet. Was eye opening for me. If anyone knows of something similar for B&W, let me know!

Found a box with lots of exposed films, black and white, colour negative and positive, even an IR-film. All shot by me in the 90s.

Since selling my darkroom equipment 20 years ago, just keeping a darkroom bag, a couple of developing tanks and other small stuff, I needed bew chemicals and started off.

Agfapan 100 and 200, Efkefilm 100 and 400 was the first. After developing one Agdafilm, I extended the developing time with 50%, using Adox FX39II, and the other films were developed almost 100% correct.

Yesterday I developed a Neopan 1600 Professional. Extended the time with 50% - total 9 minuts. After stopbath and fix, I was very disappointed - extremely underexposed. I could barely see that there was something on the film.

Just tried this film in the filmscanner, tweaking the results in Photoshop, but all seems lost.

Question: What time will you use when developing exposed "old" films? That Neopan 1600 - could high ISO films detoriate more than "normal" ISO films?

I bought an as-is Konica C35 and ran a roll of just purchased Kodak 200 through it to see what I was dealing with. All looked not too bad except for two frames, back to back.

The two frames in middle of these four have some sort of anomaly that did not show up again in the roll of 36. The photos posted are in order and taken maybe 10 minutes apart, from first to last.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Edit to add - i do understand it looks like light leaks, but why only on two back to back frames taken minutes apart. Edit to add model name.

I tried to use the search tool to find the answer before posting, but I may be using the wrong terminology as I didn't find the information I was looking for.

Essentially I'm looking to frame and hang some of my photos in lieu of store-bought wall art, but I really suck at photography right now and don't want to spend a premium on art that I'll eventually replace with better photos. I'm looking at MPix because I see that's routinely recommended here, and the price difference between photo prints and poster prints is significant. I'm looking at larger prints around 24x36.

Would it be a big mistake to go with poster prints to save some money?

Thanks in advance!

Which stock would you load into your point and shoot most often?

To preface; I may just lack creativity.

I’ve seen a lot of stuff recently about how you should be printing your photos and really getting the full experience, I finally printed one of my first rolls on some smaller 4” prints. To be frank I really enjoy the tangibility and the feeling of “completion” of the process.

With that in mind what do I do with them now? Do you folks just have print archives? Do you frame them? You make little post cards and give them away? The obvious answer is I should do what I want with them but what do the printing folks like to do with their prints?

TLDR: I printed my first roll, no idea what to do with them. What do you guys like to do with your prints?

Hey there hassi shooters ;)

I mainly shoot a Rolleiflex 2.8 that allows me to shoot handheld as low as 1/8s. Recently I often encountered situations where I would have benefitted from swapping lenses and since I always liked the 500 series I am considering getting into the system. My biggest concern is the mirror slab and whether or not I would be able to get tack sharp images around 1/30s since I often shoot in lower light situations at around f5.6 (pushing my film is already accounted for). A tripod is not an option for me.

hi, ive had this camera for a while i know that it works and that nothing happend to it, but i haven’t used it in a while and now it doesn’t seem to work anymore?? when i try to zoom in or change the flash this screen pops up and constantly flashes, also i dont have a roll in right now but when i try to press the picture button it makes a weird sound and the same screen starts flashing again:( idk what happened pls help:(

I just got two rolls of 500T developed at a local lab in Austin, TX that does ecn-2 development and these squiggly lines run the entire length of both rolls top to bottom. There is also what appears to be streaks running through several of the images, but not all. Does this have something to do with their remjet removal or developing? Or did I just find out why this particular film respooler was the cheapest?

Negatives and sprockets are included for added context, please don't roast me for the sprocket shots. Thanks any help or insight!