Print test of Raven from Stellar Blade for Neko Figurines3D.

Resin is Anycubic Craftsmen grey and printed on the Uniformation Gk2

For the dspiae one im not talking about the red one, but the grey upgraded version.

From what I see the hozu has a shorter stroke (and is adjustable) vs the dspiae, but the longer stroke of the dspiae may make it easier to sand seams that I join with resin?

Though I'm going to have to do a lot of support mark sanding on some figures, so the hozu might be better?

Looking for some opinions on the 2

Does anyone know a slicer that can be used offline?

The problem is, our printer (Phrozen Mega 8K V2) and computer are on different subnets but in the same network due to the security reasons. This network is not connected to internet.

ChituManager auto-discover feature does not work between subnets. I need to enter the IP address manually but there is no way in ChituManager.

LycheeSlicer needs log-in which we cannot because of no internet connection.

Does anyone know a slicer (or any version of Chitubox or Lychee) which we can use offline and enter the printer IP address manually for network sending?

Forgot to mention, USB stick is also not allowed.

Whenever I clean my vat, I always wipe down the LCD screen with a micro fiber towel and a tad bit of alcohol sprayed onto the towel (not sprayed onto the screen — not sure if that matters).

But anyways, there's some noticeable hairline scratches when viewing the screen with my headlamp but without it, you really can't even see it.

Wondering if this is nothing to worry about or should I start looking into getting a new LCD screen soon?

I’ve designed an entire platoon of American soldiers in Vietnam using ZBrush from the digital render to the 3D-printed and painted miniature. What do you think?

Every year I make some fun little coins for the local High School Marching band. This time around I am seeing this weird layer shifting about half way up the coin. I have printed this three times now tweaking little things here and there.

I Printed these each on a different spot on the plate and changed the angle each time. They printed with the edge hanging from supports on the plate and the lines you see would be horizontal when being printed.

After the first fail, I cleaned everything, re created the slice using Chitubox and still had the lines. After the second, I cleaned and re lubed the main screw, tweaked the stl in Fusion, and re created the slice again. Still no good!

I am printing with a Mars 3 Pro that I have run maybe 200ish prints through. Elegoo Black resin is used here in my normal climate controlled and vented room... This has to be something stupid right? Any ideas?

Hello! So I've started having this problem.

I've not done anything different to usual just sliced the pre supported files (known good and used many time files), exported to UV tools and changed rest time before cure to 30s for first 20 layers. I've gotten the exact same failure pattern twice in a row. Printing temp between 21-27 degrees c

Any ideas?

It almost looks sticky. Is this normal?

sorry if this is not the right place to post this but my FEP broke and resin got cured directly onto the screen. is there a way to remove the cured resin without scraping up the screen or needing to replace it?

I just picked up a halot 1 second hand and i cant seem to get it to work. When i do a clean test the light comes on but not very bright. I notice the lcd looks damaged. Do i need to replace it?

Hey all, have been using Elegoo's ABS-like 2.0 with me Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra for a while through the Lychee slicer to a moderate level of success. Someone told me the Sunlu ABS-like was also really good at a better price point. I've been running the boxes of calibration but I don't think I know enough about 3D printing to get this any better. I'm including an Imgur gallery with a picture of the most recent print and the settings I'm currently using: https://imgur.com/a/ZKRrrqA

I started using the imported Sunlu ABS-like settings imported through Lychee. I've since tried:

• Reducing the exposure time, from 2.7 to 2.4,
• Added a 1 second delay on Wait Before Print and Wait After Print
• Reduced the exposure time and transition layer count
• Changed layer thickness from 50um to 30um
• Leveled the printing plate

You'll see in the pictures of the calibration print that it looks mostly okay, but the fine details are getting lost. The small stepping look devoid of any and all details. The lettering looks okayish, not bad if you squint your eyes. If anyone more knowledgeable could help, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Hi

I'm having issues with my elegoo Saturn 4 ultra. I have tested many different resins and still get the same issue. The top most layers trap small bubbles, wich makes further polishing extremely difficult. Is there anybody who knows the root of this issue?

Release film is rated for 30,000 layers but I hit 278 hours with 110,473 layers and 13.8L of resin before my first code 301 Model detachment. About 95% of my prints at 30um

Other then a couple of failed prints while I was dialing in the sunlu 14k ABS Like resin it’s been as good as my Heygears RS Turbo.

Very nice!

Hey everyone I'm a noob at printer repairs however I've just changed my printers motor and lead screw, but I'm unsure exactly where to grease it up, do you put the grease in specific areas then move the build plates up and down or do you cover the entire screw ?

Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16k

Elegoo Resin

Elegoo Matrix (Slicer)

Stock film then replaced w/Elegoo PFA Release Film 2.0

I've been looking around before asking but I'm fairly new to the hobby and still don't quite understand it. The film was replaced literally last night and this was the first print. This happened with the previous film when it failed terribly due to a rip in the first film. Again, this is the print after the teared film.

I let the Elegoo Matrix software do the auto supports which hasn't let me down before. Usually, it would be too many but never has been not enough.

This IS the first model I ripped from model's resource to print. Was it an error within the model itself? It was taken through blender and everything...

This and the other model that was printed along side this one have been the only failures like this. Again, this is the 2nd print after the troubleshooting that I know.

Also the prints have been slightly elevated off the build plate. If you look at the bottom of the print, there's a curve there. Easiest removal from the build plate I've had, but I know its a problem. This only happened on the first batch of prints so far with the new film installed.

Valerie "V" Cyberpunk 2077

**Updated video w/out extra effects: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DfBGBmagTbY/

Printed on GK3 Ultra and Saturn 4

Painted by me:
https://paynestreamstudios.com
https://www.instagram.com/paynestream_studios/

Model by Bulkamancer

Scale: 1/8

Dimensions (W x D x H): 122 x 98 x 252 mm

Model by Bulkamancer Sculpts

Artist: Polina Shaman

Music: Cyberpunk 2077 Soundtrack by Marcin Przybyłowicz, P. T. Adamczyk, Paul Leonard-Morgan

Test print of Teresa (Claymore) created by Bulkamancer Sculpts. Sculpted by Alex Gray.

Printed on Anycubic Photon P1 & ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (21 pieces, 388 ml).

Hi!
This is my 2nd attempt to print this model (you can download it here: ⚔ War Sphinx・Free STL File for 3D printing・Cults), and it broke in very similar way. For the first time i thought that temperature was an issue, but i tried again with enclouser for my printer, and it happen again, in nearly same moment. I fear to try it another time, i don't want to waste resin. Lychee slicer says model has some errors that couldn't be fixed.
For now i think the problem might be a suction between large, flat area of model and FEP foil, so my idea is to rotate model slightly in 2 axis (as you can see on screen), to reduce the area printed on the same time. On previous attempts, i tried to print it standing normally. What do you think - it is worth a try, or problem lie somwhere else? Or maybe some good soul can check this model on different slicer?

"I’ve been having real issues with my Elegoo Saturn 3 lately. It started when I tried to print a rather large bust with a new FEP that I had installed. The print failed twice in a row, roughly around the same layer. I ended up re-orienting the pieces on the build plate, thinking it may have been due to suction or that the orientation was causing the issue. Each time it failed around that same layer, that layer would be stuck to the FEP.
I ended up changing the FEP again. After re-orienting the model and trying for a third time, it failed again by sticking to the FEP. Also, there are these long blank spots in the print, like cracks or splits along the layers.
I gave up on that print, changed the FEP for a third time, and tried to print something from ZZ Studios, which was pre-supported. The first of two build plates printed all the way through, but I still got delamination layers where it looks like there is a split on the model.
I changed the FEP for a fourth time, made sure the FEP was tightened properly and seated all the way down into the vat, and made sure the vat was properly secured. I strained my resin to catch any cured pieces that may have made it back into my bottle, and I leveled my build plate properly. This time it got much further, but on the second build plate for the ZZ Studios print, I still got layer delamination with splits on the model.
I’m at a loss; I don’t know what’s going on. My printer worked fine up until I changed the FEP for the first time. I had never changed the FEP before that, so I imagine it must have something to do with it. However, I consider myself pretty competent, and replacing it doesn't seem like a hard task, so I’m not sure what could possibly be wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated."

Printer Settings
Machine: ELEGOO Saturn 3
Resolution: 11520 × 5120 px
Build Size (X, Y, Z): 218.880 × 122.880 × 250.000 mm
Resin Profile
Resin Type / Name: normal / normal
Resin Density: 1.100 g/ml
Layer & Exposure Settings
Layer Height: 0.050 mm
Bottom Layer Count: 4
Exposure Time: 2.400 s
Bottom Exposure Time: 26.500 s
Transition Layer Count: 8
Transition Type: Linear
Transition Layer Interval Time Difference: 2.678 s
Wait / Rest Times
Waiting Mode During Printing: Resting time
Rest Time Before Lift: 0.000 s
Rest Time After Lift: 0.000 s
Rest Time After Retract: 0.500 s
Lift & Retract Distances (Two-Stage)
Bottom Lift Distance: 3.000 + 4.000 mm
Lifting Distance: 3.000 + 4.000 mm
Bottom Retract Distance: 5.500 + 1.500 mm
Retract Distance: 5.500 + 1.500 mm
Lift & Retract Speeds (Two-Stage)
Bottom Lift Speed: 65.000 + 180.000 mm/min
Lifting Speed: 65.000 + 180.000 mm/min
Bottom Retract Speed: 180.000 + 65.000 mm/min
Retract Speed: 180.000 + 65.000 mm/min

"I’ve been having real issues with my Elegoo Saturn 3 lately. It started when I tried to print a rather large bust with a new FEP that I had installed. The print failed twice in a row, roughly around the same layer. I ended up re-orienting the pieces on the build plate, thinking it may have been due to suction or that the orientation was causing the issue. Each time it failed around that same layer, that layer would be stuck to the FEP.
I ended up changing the FEP again. After re-orienting the model and trying for a third time, it failed again by sticking to the FEP. Also, there are these long blank spots in the print, like cracks or splits along the layers.
I gave up on that print, changed the FEP for a third time, and tried to print something from ZZ Studios, which was pre-supported. The first of two build plates printed all the way through, but I still got delamination layers where it looks like there is a split on the model.
I changed the FEP for a fourth time, made sure the FEP was tightened properly and seated all the way down into the vat, and made sure the vat was properly secured. I strained my resin to catch any cured pieces that may have made it back into my bottle, and I leveled my build plate properly. This time it got much further, but on the second build plate for the ZZ Studios print, I still got layer delamination with splits on the model.
I’m at a loss; I don’t know what’s going on. My printer worked fine up until I changed the FEP for the first time. I had never changed the FEP before that, so I imagine it must have something to do with it. However, I consider myself pretty competent, and replacing it doesn't seem like a hard task, so I’m not sure what could possibly be wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated."

Printer Settings
Machine: ELEGOO Saturn 3
Resolution: 11520 × 5120 px
Build Size (X, Y, Z): 218.880 × 122.880 × 250.000 mm
Resin Profile
Resin Type / Name: normal / normal
Resin Density: 1.100 g/ml
Layer & Exposure Settings
Layer Height: 0.050 mm
Bottom Layer Count: 4
Exposure Time: 2.400 s
Bottom Exposure Time: 26.500 s
Transition Layer Count: 8
Transition Type: Linear
Transition Layer Interval Time Difference: 2.678 s
Wait / Rest Times
Waiting Mode During Printing: Resting time
Rest Time Before Lift: 0.000 s
Rest Time After Lift: 0.000 s
Rest Time After Retract: 0.500 s
Lift & Retract Distances (Two-Stage)
Bottom Lift Distance: 3.000 + 4.000 mm
Lifting Distance: 3.000 + 4.000 mm
Bottom Retract Distance: 5.500 + 1.500 mm
Retract Distance: 5.500 + 1.500 mm
Lift & Retract Speeds (Two-Stage)
Bottom Lift Speed: 65.000 + 180.000 mm/min
Lifting Speed: 65.000 + 180.000 mm/min
Bottom Retract Speed: 180.000 + 65.000 mm/min
Retract Speed: 180.000 + 65.000 mm/min

My printer was working just fine. But 2 month ago it started to failed every print. The printer was not able to connect the support to the burnlayers or the support to the models (or leaved big scar when it does). So i tried to change the fep and resin, lower the speed, increased the offset and exposur time and test the lcd screen. But nothing worked, so i opened the printer. This is what i found, the resin is hard and sticky. Am i cooked ? Can i replace the motherboard ? Is it easy to found for the photon mono 4 ?

Printed in parts on my Mars 5 ultra and airbrushed.