Just joined! Been looking at this car for 3 years and finally purchased one.

STICK SHIFT!!! Still trying to wrap my head around manual, so any and all tips are welcome!

Edit: Just reached my first 100 miles in the car! My commute is 25mi there and back, so this car will definitely pick up some miles quick‼️

This is my beautiful, green mazda 3 sedan. This model doesn't get enough appreciation. In my opinion it is one of the nicest looking sedans on the market, you just need to give it a little love.

ps - not visually done with my car yet, if requested, I will update about how it looks in the future

#Mazda3SedanAppreciation

I bought a brand new in 2013. The only issues I ever experienced with it abs module, and overheating issues with the hoses and now I am experiencing some sun damaged paint I only put on it 150,000 km

Does it not come with wireless Apple CarPlay because it’s the S? Which, yes, believe me I was well aware it was barebones base model. I just wanted cloth seats and none of the other model 3’s (at least at the dealership) had cloth seats, my car was totaled with the balance still on my credit (insurance dragging their feet on payoff & get a rental for less than a week with a total loss) , so this was the best option. I love the Mazda 3 and previously has a 2.5 S Carbon Edition w/ Red Interior but the leather was too hot for where I live (now) and the AWD was getting terrible MPG.

I know I can buy a wireless adaptive plug in device if it DOESN’T have wireless CarPlay.. though, I haven’t set up the car because I’m tired. I worked all day, insurance is no fun to work with.. Google is hardly help with this question

Does the 2026 Mazda 3 S have Wireless CarPlay or did I really just buy a complete downgrade 🤦‍♀️ I figured a 2026 wireless would be standard.. (my fault for assuming if it doesn’t)

I bought a brand new in 2013. The only issues I ever experienced with it radius, module, and overheating issues with the hoses and now I am experiencing some damaged paint I only put on it 150,000 km

Took this during replacement of valve cover gasket, trying to solve Misfire in cylinder 3. Overall it doesn’t look bad except that oil leak to the cylinder 3, right? (Or I am too optimistic?)
Mazda 3 (2013), SkyActiv, 2.0L, hatchback, 151k miles.

Not ready (and can’t afford haha) to say “goodbye”.

Changed gasket already, spark plugs, ignition coil #3, cleaned MAF, replaced air filter. Praying for bad wire rather than something worse.

Any time the topic of start/stop came up irl it was always how bad it is and how it feels. Even people with newer cars. But I have to say on my 2026 Mazda 3 I'm quite happy with it, despite it being the 1st car with the feature I drove.

I don't feel it lagging on stop lights and I've picked up on exactly when the engine will turn back on. Which I gathered is the most common one, with battery health being a second but with the hybrid battery powering it I feel like it's probably fine for the actual battery(?).

Is start/stop really that bad nowadays as it was before? And if so, why?

Hello all

I have messed up. I have a 2015 mazda 3 sedan mk3, they are cloth seats with no heated seats or power seats. I realised that the 2015 model has the wiring for it in the car. So I decided to buy a set of leather ones.

Here is where I messed up. I picked up a set of nearly perfect leather seats. They are really nice black leather with black stitching, they even came with the higher trim door cards too to match. But little did i know that the 2017 had a facelift. Now I am stuck with these seats, I spoke to one of my mates who is a mechanic and he said he can just wire them in as the cables are all there. He is a mechanic and has done this before with a golf but there was a lot more out there about the pinout for it.

Where I am stuck is the pinout, I have tried to find anything online but no luck. Please if anyone knows which wire is which that would be a god send.

I bought a 2025 Premium Plus Mazda 3 turbo in April of 2025. I traded in my 2016 Golf R toward it, and as much as I love this car, it took some work to get it to perform close to what I had gotten used to. I added wider wheels as well as 245/18 tires (put snows on the OEM wheels), sway bars, and a JB4 tuner. The one change I made (that I love but don't dare use this winter) was a set of Corksport "Not-So-Low" lowering springs - see photo.

I made an appointment for a bunch of routine maintenance stuff, and against what my heart says, I followed my head and had my mechanic swap the old springs back in. The Corksport springs are a definite improvement over the original springs from a handling perspective, but I am nearly certain the OEM lower lip will not make it through a Vermont winter. I had the springs installed last May and loved the car all summer. But I can't keep them. They need to be on a car that doesn't deal with the roads and snow that we get up here. If there is no better suggestion for a used parts forum from anyone here I'll put them on ebay, but figured I'd ask here first. Is there a site where idiots like me realize their mistakes and try to sell nearly new parts they should not have bought in the first place?

With CS Not-So-Low springs

Hey guys I’ve never owned a Mazda and am not well versed on them but I’ve been reading about the Mazda 3s and finding nothing but good things! There is a 2016 Mazda 3 I hatchback 6 speed sitting on a car lot near me for 10500 it’s had 4 owners and it’s sitting at 106k miles is this a decent deal and what should I look for/ test during the test drive?

Im a newly qualified driver in London (UK) and my Mazda3 is getting delivered on Friday (2020 GT Sport Skyactiv-G 2L).

Traffic is quite heavy here. When I test-drove it it was mainly on 40-60mph roads due to the location. I remember loving how stable it felt on roundabouts and bends (way better than the Yaris I learned in). I didnt really get to experience London-style stop-and-go traffic in it though.

Does the fake hybrid thing actually make it take off and creep forward more seamlessly than a regular pure petrol engine?

Recently got on a 2019 Preferred Mazda 3 hatchback (90,000 miles), and I am only familiar with driving Volkswagens. When I’m driving my car hitting 60 to 65 mph, there starts being an oscillating noise that I can’t quite figure out. I’ve brought it to a Mazda, i’ve also brought it back to the dealership I’ve purchased it at. There has been multiple test drives on the vehicle and they can’t find anything wrong with it! Wondering if this is just how the car sounds, or if there genuinely might be something wrong with it.

It seems like it might just be the sound when the car is changing gear? but it dosent effect the driving at all.

and maybe the new tire tread has to wear down a little bit, or it could be just wind noise? My thought was maybe the transmission fluid needed to be changed, but I believe that was done already?

Any ideas?

I’m also not trying to will a problem into existence, if this if just how it is then i’m okay with it!

I have an unprogrammed CX-5 key that I want programmed to my 3 at some point, as I do not have a spare.

Could the lift gate button on the fob be used for an aftermarket remote starter or be made to do something else? Or would it just be useless no matter what, considering we do not have power liftgates.

Spoke to a reputable shop nearby and they told me they couldn't do that but I was curious if anyone else has had luck or has heard of something similar?

I'm fine with the button being useless, got the key as a cheap spare anyway.

Hey guys my grill on my car looks super faded almost gray. What do you guys recommend? Painting it or swapping it out?

Is it easy to replace for those who have done it?

Just looking to see what size I need. 2.5 NA 2021

So I have been having a reoccurring issues with my Mazda 3 from end of 2019 (early gen 4). It lights up b1b40 and b1b42 (front two left parking sensors). The sensors work fine and error shows up after starting in both ACC and when cranking. The mechanic has measures and updates the parking module (twice..) and recently the battery was showing very high current so he changed the battery. This did not help,it threw the code again after half an hour after a short stop at a shop and restarting it (code does not appear while driving). When I came home I noticed a bit of soot residue all around the slot in the hood. I'm worried the alternator might overcharge the system? The dealer (who is supposed to pay this under warranty) suggest it is the side mirror which took a hot a couple of months before the error occurred, in which case the tep would be on me. I'm just checking if someone experienced these issues with the parking sensors fault reoccurring. Previously it had the TCU changed, which I suspect could also have been fried by the alternator system.

Am I crazy here? Is it the side mirror? All functions work on the mirror (adjust and heat). Could it be the alternator overcharging the system?

I just got hit by a car on the rear side of my mazda 3 and the towing truck loaded the vehicle without depressing the brake pedal so one of the back wheels was stocked, i had to change the Break Actuator that costed me like $260, just had to replace that and the brake pedal button worked normal again.

It’s a 2026 I got in February with 24k km on it. It was ceramic coated by the dealer and has a handful of small chips on the front and is pretty dirty too.

Is it still OK let alone recommended to get PPF at this point on the front? Wondering if it’s too late to save it from getting peppered.

Anyone also deal with significant road rash on the hood? I always avoid driving behind trucks and such, but it seems like it’s inevitable. Never had road rash to this extent before.

Hello,

My power steering fluid level Is lower that the MIN indicator so I want to topping up with the fluid attached on the picture. I just want to know if this is compatible.

I checked the manual and specifications also asked CHAT GPT.

Is there a place where I can get the ATF MIII or MV in the uk?