That Deep Crystal Blue just hits different when cleaned up 😎

'14 Touring w/ Tech

168k miles

Just a nice side profile pic of my 21 Mazda 6 Touring. Will be paid off as of this friday. Just under 49k miles on her.

Asking $9500 (6800 USD) Cad has 190k km (118k miles) on it.

Car looks great has minor scratches on the bumper that all

(sound on)

Title says it. I'm a Mazda tech, almost master. Bought it at 280k, against most people's advice. Did a trans flush at 285k also against advice. Have since done the second trans flush since ownership, no issues. Only CEL is for catalyst inefficiency and I'm not replacing it for $700 unless it starts to get clogged. Have hit into the 40mpgs for mileage several times and usually average about 36-38. Have done plugs, 3 coils, battery, control arms, belts, resealed timing cover and oil pan, and flushed coolant and brake fluid. Has new front tires, new front brakes and rear brakes at about 70%. Ask me anything else you may want to know. This car will definitely hit 500k and plan on taking it higher. Putting about 1k - 1500 miles per week doing medical drug deliveries and regular commuting.

i think it looks way cleaner, thoughts?

I have a 2017 Mazda 6 Atenza Wagon with the Bose amp installed. I have purchased an aftermarket head unit and wiring harness to put it all together.

Head unit - Pioneer DMH-A5650BT
ASMZ7C Steering wheel control interface to suit Mazda
Aerpro APP8PIO8 App8 secondary iso harness to suit pioneer av headunits 16 pin

I have connected all the cables that I can (correctly I believe) and can turn on the head unit and connect it to my phone.

There are RCA jacks in the back of the head unit to connect to the speakers but nothing to connect to the car. I believe it requires another adaptor, AI seems to think it's an Aerpro APP7240 but that doesn't exist anymore.

I still have 3 wires coming from the car that aren't plugged in, 1 blue cable (GPS), 1 green and grey cable (I believe this is sound to connect to the amp?) And a white 4 pin cable.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vHgJHmKrNx8oEod46

Anyone have any ideas to help me get this installed?

What engine oil should I be using? I've been through nany garages and they all suck ass, so I think I will bite the bullet and so stuff on my own. Does anyone knows for sure what oils I need? I mean both the type and brand for engine, transmission (manual) and break fluid...also maybe coolant. I know my car has been with 5w30 for some time now, it has 243k km at the moment. I wanna do quality stuff but I have all mixed up information everywhere. Thanks.

Hi everyone,
I'm trying to install a Bluetooth kit into my 2003
Mazda 6 with the stock Matsushita head unit (CR-YM427K).

The idea was to use a kit that plugs into the back and works alongside the cassette player.
However, the Bluetooth box won't turn on at all, even when I insert a cassette and the tape mechanism physically plays.

I measured the pins (red and black) on the connector leading from the head unit to the Bluetooth module with a multitester, and it's only showing around 3 volts, which obviously isn't enough to power the device.
• Has anyone dealt with this specific head unit?
• Is the CD changer / external port unpowered by default on this early model, or am I missing something simple?
• Do I need to tap into the main 12V ignition/ constant power wire behind the radio instead, or is there a trick to wake this port up?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I've attached photos of the setup.

My unit doesnt have a cd player, just a cassette.

Hey, recently I got into an accidentwith my 2017 a/t 2.5l sedan mazda 6, bent my strut assembly and now I'm looking into buying a used replacement part but can't find any solid info whether a diesel/wagon strut is the same as in my car. Would appreciate some info on this topic. Posting a pic of the accident and some used struts I found for sale.

Hello im looking for a pinout for this connector going to the small display on top

i found this on the web https://pinoutguide.com/visual/gen/Mazda_CR-LM4282KA.jpg but it doesnt seem right. why is there a Left/Right signal input? it makes no sense.

also, is there a way to mimic the non existing MD/Tape drive so i can input a external audio signal from a android dash for example? i dont want to go the fm-transmitter route.

ive tried one of those a-sure 6+128gb headunits, but its full of failures. terrible interface and apps.

the adapterplate hazard-lights button doesnt even toggle, i have to hold it

and it failed within a week (only outputs static loud noise on radio/bt/music player)

so i want to keep the original radio but feed it audio externally on that unused button.

For my ‘21 Mazda6 Grand Touring. No i-ELOOP and no i-Stop.

Bought pre owned last March from a non-Mazda dealer and had a cheap 1-year O’Reilly’s battery that’s wet, not AGM.

I’ve been reading conflicting information online that AGM battery could be better, but also that AGM won’t be as efficient since there is no ability to register the different battery for charging system to treat it differently and would charge like it’s a wet battery. Also reading conflicting information on heat effect on batteries. On one hand read that AGM may be more resilient to heat, then read it may be more sensitive to heat. I know the engine bay runs hot, and I see heat waves flowing out on the hot days we’ve seen in SoCal. But we also have the heat sleeve.

I’m looking at Costco batteries and seems like the Walmart Everstart AGM is also very well rated, but AGMs are about $55 more.

Am I overthinking this? Would moving to AGM really be better?

Hi everyone, I am hearing this squealing sound when I turn the steering wheel. Anyone know what's causing this?

Thank you

Anyone use Prolube on the 6 for idle mild roughness

Mazda6, 2016

2.2 diesel

Standing at 90000 miles

Hello All. I have been a Mazda 3 owner of four different variations. I really like the body style of the 3rd generation Mazda 6, and am looking at a used 2014-2016 model. I want more space but my concern is that manual transmissions are very hard to find. I have only driven manual transmissions for several years now. How reliable are the automatic transmissions, and what should I look out for?

My Mazda 6 currently has the Halogen housing, I read somewhere that the Halogen housing and Led housing swap is pretty much just plug and play, so in theory I could buy these passenger and drivers side and get my mechanic to fit them and it shouldn't be too much drama?

I'm considering buying this 2018 Mazda 6 2.2 CD Revolution Plus automatic.

The car:

• 2018 Mazda 6 Revolution Plus
• 2.2 Skyactiv-D diesel, 175 hp
• Automatic gearbox
• Approximately 185,000 km
• Leather interior, LED lights, reversing camera and other equipment
• Asking price: approximately €10,000

I really like the design, equipment and price, but I'm concerned about the reputation of Mazda's 2.2 diesel engine. I plan to keep the car for several years and drive around 12,000–18,000 km annually.

I've read about DPF issues, oil dilution, injector seals, carbon buildup, timing-chain wear and potential oil-pressure problems. I understand that later models received revisions, but it's difficult to establish how much these improved reliability in practice.

These are my main questions:

Are the 2018 models actually more reliable than the 2013–2015 ones, or do they still have the same problems?

With 185,000 km on the clock, what would you be most worried about mechanically? Has anyone here had major engine problems with theirs?

Are there any common issues that might not show up during a normal pre-purchase inspection?

For those who’ve had problems with theirs, how much did the repairs actually cost?

Would you buy this particular car for around €10,000 if it checked out with a mechanic, or would you play it safe and go for a petrol Mazda 6 instead?

Thanks.

Hi all,

As the title says, every time I indicate to the right, use my hazards, unlock or lock the car (basically any time the right indicator lamp switches on) I get a beeping noise coming from the boot of my car, from the left hand side light assembly area. Cannot for the life of me figure out why it does it, was wondering if anybody else has had this issue before? Thanks

So the inner workings of cars never interested me much (aka I know nothing about cars) but this is one, I've heard some counter intuitive things around the Mazda6 sooo you know

It looks extra grey during the day when the sunlight hits it, making it hard to read what's on the screen.

Shop quoted me around 4.2-4.6k for a new engine (labor included). Paid 4.5k for this 2015 with 140k miles. Normally I wouldn't bother asking, but the biggest thing that's making me second guess if this might be a huge waste of money is that this isn't the first engine that's been replaced in this vehicle. The previous owner told me that the first owner had to replace the engine at 40k miles. So does anyone have any advice? I feel like if the vehicle is blowing up engines this often putting another one in feels pretty stupid. Any idea what could be causing it? Should I just try to sell it for parts and put that 5k towards another vehicle?

Edit:

Thank you all for the great responses and advice. I'm going to recheck to make sure I'm remembering correctly, but I'm pretty sure the shop that I had taken it to did say they would warranty the engine they put in it for like a year or 2 so I think I'm going to go with that route, save up during that year, and then sell it just so I don't live with the paranoia that it might kill a third. Realistically it should probably be fine, but I would be okay upgrading at that point just for the peace of mind.

Additionally I wanted to point out to people saying that obviously it makes more sense at this price point since it's going to be cheaper than a new car, you're absolutely right, but it's not like I couldn't put a few thousand towards a car as well as maybe getting a little bit for this one if I didn't decide to go through with the engine replacement. In my area I could get a pretty good used car for 6-8k. That being said, of course that's going to come down to my own personal preference on how bad I want to keep this car or spend more to get a "new" one.

Again thanks for the helpful perspectives and I will absolutely be calling around to some other shops to see if I can get a better deal on an engine/labor, but it seems like that's going to be the play for the time being. It also helps that I know for a fact by this time next year that I will be driving nowhere near as much as I am right now, so I could get something that doesn't have to be so good on gas and cheap to maintain without feeling bad. Not a whole lot out there that compares to a Mazda6 these days, so this car just fits my current needs so well it makes sense to use it for that warranty period at the very least. Much love to you all !

130kmiles on the clock. DPF has been changed, yearly services.

2-3 weeks ago the battery was dead. ( I've barely used it, only use it for long drives, so thought the age of the battery and weather change.)

Fitted new battery.

Car worked, moved it out of my garage so I could get my motorbike out. Left it there.

Went to it this morning to go for a long journey.

New car battery is completely flat again.

Got it started with a jump pack.

Car then cut out when idling, X3 I tried.

What's the issue? Alternator, I've read about the EGR may need resetting? I'm hoping it's neither of these...new battery shouldn't be flat after 2-3 weeks without a drive surely?

I got a battery charging kit and will try that tomorrow It's just raining a lot today...

Any advice will be appreciated, a bit broke ATM with my divorce.