I used to own the DECO V1 and I was fascinated with that pedal. If you look back in my post history, there are a few different demo posts involving the DECO V1. I started playing in stereo mode and the V1 was suddenly less useful. The stereo input jumper is inside the pedal on the V1. Eventually, I traded it.

The Strymon DECO V2 has a few big improvements over the V1. A stereo/mono input switch is on the outside of the pedal now. There is a tone knob for the saturation side and a second “cassette” voice that sounds even better than the classic DECO saturation sound.

The modulation side of the pedal is the same as before. You control random modulation with the wobble knob. The lag knob controls delay on the modulated signal. You can get all kinds of cool sounds like slap back, phaser, flanger, and chorus. My favorite way to use it is blend at full, Lag at 0, and wobble all the way up. That’s my favorite lo fi vibrato sound.

If you use midi, the V2 does that. I don’t use midi, so I can’t comment on that part. I was a little disappointed when I realized there was only one input. The midi/expression jack makes it too crowded for another input jack. A TRS cable is needed for stereo input. At least I don’t have to open the pedal up anymore to switch to stereo.

The original DECO is one of my favorite pedals. People often call it a Swiss Army knife type pedal, and I agree with that. Especially with the Cassette voice. It has more gain than the classic sound.

I like to keep this pedal at the end of my chain right before delays if I’m using the saturation side mainly. If I use it for lo fi vibrato, I’ll run the EQD Arrows or a Dyna Comp in front of the DECO. If you add the saturation side after fuzz, that’s good times too. One of my favorite sounds is Ibanez Soundtank Chorus > Tumnus > Honey pot fuzz > DECO. It sounds heavy as fuck.

Do you have this pedal or have questions about it? Let me know and thank you for reading. (My bookshelf is now arranged by hard covers > paperbacks in the order they were written for the most part)

I've been using imperial pedal for few months. Great pedal!

Never paid attention before but after seeing some images and videos online, I've realized that mine's has different foot switch form factor. It is smaller and rounder. Thus I can't put any plastic foot switch cover on top.

Anyone's looks like this?

I’m constantly experimenting and am open to any helpful suggestions.

I recently converted to the GT-1000CORE for my live unit, and wanted to protect the knobs from any chance of being kicked or damaged. So I tried my hand at designing a guard for them. I used Tinkercad for the model and Creality Print to slice, and printed on my son's Creality Ender-3 V3 SE printer. I left the tops open so you could still make adjustments in a pinch, but I mount mine with velcro so it's removeable...probably could have thought that through a bit more lol. Cheers all!

Boss GT-1000CORE Control Guard (Free)

Looking to build myself a pedalboard and need an overdrive pedal.(and a distortion coming on top of that). I have a PRS swamp ash studio 2012 guitar and a Laney cub12r. Usually play blues rock stuff.I need a pedal duo or possibly a dual pedal that can get me from clean to crunch tone that I can dial the tone down and get a clean tone again.

I can say that crunch tone is probably more important than the distortion tone for me as it is what i use most of the time. It needs to be a tone that when I strum a chord softly it still gives me that chord sounds without muddying it to much but when i play single notes with hardpicking sounds almost like a distortion.

And a 2nd drive that can get me the Gary Moore kind of tone. I'm thinking about getting a blues driver into OD-1/SD-1. I'm open to more ideas that you can give me. I'm in turkey so it is hard for me to get boutique kind of pedals so pls nothing too hard to find.

Do please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thx a lot!!

Between Alexander Rewind and History Lesson Vol 3, which one would you go for and why? Has anyone here tried both and prefer one or the other? How do they compare sonically?

With a little od / boost on tap for mediocre solos etc.

Was going to get a helix stadium or something to have a convenient all in one, but I’m going to try working with what I’ve got here. And still no screens :)

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Hey everyone,

After nearly a year of layout adjustments, wiring trials, and 8 months of heavy testing, I’m finally at a point where I feel this board is 100% complete. It has been absolutely flawless for me in practice.

The goal here was to build a bulletproof, high-gain, dual-amp rig that uses an outboard preamp pedal as my primary dirty channel, while completely isolating my time-based/modulation effects and splitting my outputs to multiple destinations with zero phase or ground loop issues.

Here is the exact breakdown of how this monster is wired up:

1. The Front End & Dynamics Loop (SaturnWorks 3-Loop)

• Input: Guitar runs straight into a Boss TU-3 Tuner -> DigiTech Drop -> the guitar section of an ISP Decimator G-String.

• From the Decimator, it goes into SaturnWorks 3-Loop Switcher to manage the front-of-amp shaping dynamics:

• Loop 1: Empress Compressor

• Loop 2: Boss BP-1W Booster/Preamp

• Loop 3: Keeley Noble Screamer

1. The High-Gain Preamp & Gate Stage (4-Cable Clamping)

• The output of the 3-Loop switcher feeds directly into the main input of a Diezel Zerrer, which acts as the core preamp and distortion engine of the rig.

• To keep the high-gain completely silent, the FX Out of the Diezel Zerrer routes back into the Decimator G-String's Gate section, clamping down hard on any residual preamp hiss before sending a pristine signal down the line.

• The gated output then goes into an Empress ParaEQ w/ Boost for final master tonal sculpting.

1. The Wet & Modulation Loop (SaturnWorks 5-Loop)

• From the ParaEQ, the signal hits a SaturnWorks 5-Loop Switcher which houses all time-based and modulation engines to keep them completely isolated when not in use:

• Loop 1: Boss BF-2 Flanger

• Loop 2: Eventide ModFactor

• Loop 3: Seymour Duncan Andromeda Delay

• Loop 4: EHX Cathedral Stereo Reverb

• Loop 5: Zoom MS-70CDR / MS-50G (for wild card utility/ambient patches)

1. The 3-Way Output Split (The Wall of Sound)

• The final output of the 5-Loop switcher goes into a Fortin Spliff (3-Way Splitter) to drive three independent destinations simultaneously:

• Out 1: Feeds a Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier power section.

• Out 2: Pushes into an EVH 5150 III EL34.

• Out 3: Routes directly into a GFI Cabzeus (Cab Sim), which feeds a Walrus Canvas DI/LI for a direct line straight to the studio interface or front-of-house.

It took an incredible amount of planning to balance two independent loop switchers, a 4-cable gate method, and a 3-way output split without creating a nightmare of phase cancellations or ground loops—but it has been rock solid and completely quiet.

I've attached the hero shot, a rig context photo, and the full graphic signal flow diagram I built to keep track of the routing.

Would love to hear your thoughts! Is anyone else running a complex multi-amp split layout or relying on a dedicated preamp pedal

My board has been pretty stable the last few years, but working on a new record prompted some changes.

Signal flow:
Tele/Strat/Meteora into > Dream Reaper > Timmy > Brothers AM > VSXO > Comp JR > out to volume pedal > MD200 > Tap Delay > MOOD > DD500 > Blue Sky > and out to one of my traynors or DRRI

I’m really digging how easy/quick it is to dial in sounds with this board. I added the MD200 so that I could stop swapping mod pedals in and out, and for my fairly basic needs it’s been fantastic.

Title says it. I’ve got a large collection, but have never really messed with octave effects besides fuzz. Thoughts on POG vs Boss Octave vs 🤷🏻‍♂️?

Ideally I would use this for ambient or shoegaze - OR - to give singer/songwriter acoustic guitar a little extra heft live.

What should I check out?

Got a decent deal on this, came with everything like new and it's in great shape. Been loving playing around with it!

My simple setup. Crybaby, Strobostomp, Plumes, Milkman, Dleuxe61, Element. The Darkglass Element lets me play through my FRFR or headphones and play along with anything Bluetooth.

Tried looking at local listings and the price is all over the place. Buying new would cost an extra penny I’d imagine with shipping/ duties etc.

I've been building my pedalboard recently and have been fortunate enough to get my hands on these pedals. The SD-1 and Big Muff are new, while the rest are pre-owned pedals I found on Adverts.

I used to play a bit back in uni, and after years away, I recently got my first electric guitar (Harley Benton Les Paul nothing crazy). I don't have much soloing experience yet, so the Loop Station has been a game changer for me. Here's a short demo: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7pVkHAE7rmsx3yda6

I originally planned to have five pedals on the board. The Dynamic Wah wasn't part of the plan, but I picked it up today after finding a deal that was hard to say no to! I wasn't sure what to expect but oh boy, it is a new way to think about music for me.

Here is a short demo of the Wah, and other pedals. Recorded in garageband: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dP1wGjf8GvPRqeUT8

I'd love to hear your thoughts and any feedback you might have!

I posted this board a few weeks ago praising the Deco and La Brea.

After a few weeks I’ve decided that I don’t actually like what they did to my tone and I think I was trying to convince myself that they were what I needed. Luckily I bought them on Amazon so they’ve all been returned. The La Brea did have a certain thing I liked about a saturation overdrive, but with my ES335 it sounded too “honkish and dark”.

I replaced the Deco with the Zio, the La Brea and Sunset with the JHS AT, and the UA Enigmatic with the TC Combo 65.

I know the Zio is a totally different thing but I really like what it does to my overdrive pedals and my tone. Plus it was the $99 Stupid Deal of the Day last week.

The Enigmatic got too overwhelming dialing in a good tone and I actually like the sound of the Combo 65 and the straight forward settings over the Dream 65. I was also talking myself into being a Dumble guy when I’m really just a Fender guy.

I was buying expensive pedals and convincing myself they were the end all be all, when really I needed to step back and simplify my board. Plus getting my $1000 back was nice too!

Just that little bit of warble really brings the room together, hot damn. Obviously I will also put it in momentary mode at high settings to mess with my bandmates but for now it's staying on.

I honestly think guitarists sometimes spend too much time chasing the next exciting pedal and not enough time figuring out what their board actually needs.

A limited-edition Tube Screamer with a cool design is fun to own, and finding the perfect low-gain overdrive can make a huge difference to your tone. But something as unglamorous as a reliable remote switch can improve your setup just as much, especially if it makes switching sounds easier during a live set.

I'm a big believer in getting the fundamentals right before buying more gear. A good overdrive that works across multiple guitars and amps is often more useful than a boutique pedal that only sounds right in one particular setup. And practical accessories can solve problems you didn't even realize were making your rig harder to use.

There's nothing wrong with collecting pedals for fun, of course. But the best pedalboard isn't the one with the most expensive or unusual pedals. It's the one that lets you get the sounds you want without fighting your own setup.

I'd rather have a simple, reliable board that works perfectly for my playing than a collection of hyped pedals that rarely leave the shelf.

What's the least flashy piece of gear on your board that you genuinely wouldn't want to play without?

Best Marshall in a box I've ever had!

Basically i have a modelling amp, with 2 amp models that are clean and rest being distorted. However for sone of the music i play it's just not distorted enough, but the clean models wouldn't work for that type of music either. My current idea(if i do buy a distortion pedal) is to just decrease gain on the ampwhile having the pedal active.

This gig board has been through quite a few adjustments since I last checked in, so here’s the rundown…

Signal chain: Korg Pitch Black Mini Tuner > Crybaby Wah > EHX Q-Tron+ > (fx loop send) MXR Poly Blue Octave (fx loop return) > Mosky King Rat > MXR Sugar Drive > Boss GE-7 > MXR Phase 95 > Boss CH-1 > Boss FV-50 > JHS Flight Delay > Walrus Audio Fundamental Reverb > EHX Pulsar

This is the first time I’ve ever used the fx loop on the Q-Tron+ and it has unlocked some absolute fire for me. I always struggled with how the octave pedal was impacting the dynamics of the envelope filter and struggled to dial it in, and now the Q Tron stays responsive while still giving me they sweet bass synth-esque funk.

I still need to spend more time with the Mosky King Rat + Sugar Drive combo to dial in my distortion lead tones. I also need to find out how to craft deep rhythm chug tones with it. I feel like I need a noise gate after the Sugar Drive but am currently out of space. Open to recommendations.

The Phase 95 is the least used pedal on the board right now, may eventually swap it out for a flange or similar modulation pedal. May also just remove it entirely as my power supply (VooDoo Labs Pedal Power 3) is currently too crowded to hold the two ports required to run 24v power to the Q-Tron, so I need a separate power supply cord for that pedal at the moment.

CH-1 is old reliable. Best Chorus pedal I’ve ever owned.

I have wanted a volume pedal for a long time for ghostly swells during ambient jams, and the FV-50 is simple, durable, and low impedance/passive so no power requirements necessary.

JHS Flight Delay and Walrus Audio Fundamental are the newest pedals on the board. I was previously using an EQD Avalanche Run v2 to meet my delay and reverb needs. I love that pedal, and still own it and probably will forever, but it is more ambient than I need for my current jam band, and only has the massive cavernous plate reverb and digital delay effects.

The JHS Flight Delay is an early favorite. I bought Josh’s “everything you need in a delay pedal and nothing you don’t” pitch hook line and sinker and have had fun diving into the effects I can get out of this thing so far. The Fundamental Series from Walrus Audio is phenomenal for the price point and meets my more subtle ambient needs currently. I could see upgrading to a Hall Of Fame 2 or something similar eventually, but I mostly like my reverb for either massive ambient Hall/Plate moments or always on, low in the mix Spring sounds, and this pedal does both beautifully for a very affordable price.

The Pulsar is a beautiful simple tremolo pedal that has a wide range of uses in a compact package.

This board has been a labor of love for many years and it’s feeling in a very good spot right now! Open to suggestions for upgrades or replacements for the Phase 95. In the meantime, the pedal board is “complete” and for the first time I have enough pedals off the board for a whole second viable board if I wanted to. The never ending journey continues!

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10 years ago I posted my "minimal pedalboard" :)

After a lot of career developments, a divorce, a new wonderful partner, and a little bit of playing in between, I'm happy to show you the current state of the same budget pedalboard (still the same Gator with pre-applied velcro, but this time using a 1 SPOT Pro underneath, and a hidden USB hub for quick connection to PC and firmware updates.)

I feel this evolution represents my life: colorful and complete now - lifeless and empty then.

Path is impedance optimized for low noise. Sonicake VolWah > Yellow Comp > Blues Crab > JHS AT > Pure Sky > Ditto+ > HX Stomp with Logidy EPSi (using converted IRs of a Bricasti unit) in FX loop and Ampero footswitch for tuner and extra function access.

The footswitch covers for HX Stomp, Ditto + and EPSi are custom designed and 3D printed. I will be selling them soon. Please check out my Printables profile

I don't see many reviews for www.sweetfootpedals.com and less for their remote Mini 2 button switch for the Neo Ventilator 2.

So I wanted to leave this very positive review.

I just recieved my 2 button mini remote for Neo Ventilator 2.

Exactly what I was looking for. I haven't owned a whole lot of pedals as I'm a Keyboard player. I Thought this very affordable remote pedal would be a good idea, for a couple reasons. 1) I'm so in love with the Ventilator 2, that I wanted to go easy on the switches themselves, especially because sometimes I'm often seated, and hitting the fast/slow button super Often and at an Angle (due the the my foot position and the height of the Ventilator 2), which can't be great for the switches. 2) I wanted a smaller foot print under the left leg of my X style keyboard stand so my sustain pedal wouldn't be so far to the left. Well The Mini Remote is exactly what I needed. The Quiet, non-click Buttons work well. With the Mini remote as opposed to the Micro remote, there is enough room between the 2 buttons, (Stop and the Fast/Slow). I appreciate that it was very affordable and shipped quickly. I chose Red with aluminum instead of a graphic, to match my Nord, the pedal is all red and looks fantastic. It works perfectly with the Ventilator 2, with the remote setting at 7:00. I would highly recommend immediately getting 2 or 3 accessories... A) a short Stereo 1/4 inch TRS Cable, (a regular 1/4 inch mono guitar cable won't do it.) B) Some little silicone self adhesive Electronics anti-slip feet, as it's just the bare metal on the bottom. Anyway the pedal works exactly they way it's supposed to. Great Value, Great product. Extra Note: For the Ventilator 2, and Nord Stage 3, I purchased a high quality Y cable with One 1/8 inch Stereo Male plug split to two 1/4 inch male plugs, so I can use the Nord Aux input. My organ sounds are going thru output 3, unless I switch on the internal leslie effect button. This way all the sound is routed to outputs 1 and 2.

I got this Talkbox that I’ve Never used before and my band is planning to do a Song that Features a Part with it. My band practice setup is a Valeton GP5 (such a Great Tool , love it) straight into the PA and then to our in Ear System . My plan is to plug my Guitar into the modeler as usual , put the Talkbox after it , then into our Mixer and the mic cable into the mixer aswell of course. Is that the correct way ?