Context, my ps5 hdmi port is broken, I already paid a technician 79$ to fix it about 2 weeks ago, he tested it very shortly because he was abt to go on vacation for a week, and it worked. Went back home and it didn't. Long story short, when I told him it didn't work, he said he'll fix it for free, however now, he said that the difficulty of the repair is too hard, and that he won't be able to do it, so my question is really just for a qualified technician who has done these repairs before, is this really that hard? A new ps5 locally is about 1000$+ 😔 (The technician is not held accountable for the problem because I had an acquaintance with little to no experience with PS5 repairs DIY the thing beforehand. He said he did PC motherboard repairs and he'll give it a shot.)

On my 3DS XL, the speaker ribbon cable was damaged, so I replaced it. Now, when I turn the console on, the blue LED lights up for 3 seconds, the speakers make a "pop" sound, and it shuts off abruptly.

I suspect the soldering might have been done poorly. Any advice?

PS5 Slim CFI-2015

For those of you guys who’ve had this issue, where do you start to troubleshoot the problem. Google searches comes back with psu/fuse problems, but also could be anything.

Ive taken it apart at the motherboard looks fine as there are no obvious shorts. Now im looking around with a multimeter on common spots that others have mentioned like F7001/2 fuses.

The console isnt dusty/dirty and the liquid metal doesn’t have a dry spot. Doesn’t boot enough to get into safe mode.

Not sure about committing to buying another psu for this ps5 yet, as Im still trying to diagnose the problem.

Does anyone have the specifics of the speaker bracket for the limited edition consoles? Got a weird refurb in front of me. Done by MS. Special edition board (no buzzer speaker), with custom boot sounds. I installed a buzzer, but they sound terrible. Swapped it out for a header and an 8ohm 1watt speaker, but now I have no mount for it. Sure, hot glue works, but I've got a 3d printer. I can just print a bracket. Does anyone have one they can measure out to be recreated in openscad, or have a stl of the bracket? I looked pretty thoroughly online and couldn't find anything. Not even the brackets for sale.

Kind of odd to get a silent special edition board in a regular balck shell, but I do know it CAN happen.

Hi All...

Got a faulty Ps5 Which gives the PS5 Logo then goes black sometimes goes until the intro screen, gives the intro music and stays responsive.

First I thought it was just the encoder, tried a different known working encoder, same result.

Checked all filter caps, decoupling caps along hdmi and apu traces, hdmi diode values look fine.

it will stay on the safe boot controller prompt screen for as long as it wants. But when inside the safe mode it will give maybe 5 - 10 seconds before going black.

Also when updating the firmware from the it stayed until completion and did restart, only to go black after the logo with white light.

kind of clueless here and now I think it has something to do with the APU.. maybe a reflow will fix the issue????

Hello,

Right now I’m trying to repair this ps2 slim 90000 series to see if I can get it to work again, but when I turn on the console it shows no sign of life other than the green power light. No video signal, audio, no fan spin, and the disc drive doesn’t even spin up. Also if I press and hold down the power button to turn it off, it remains green and I have to unplug the power cord to turn off the console.

I have opened up the console and was testing around and found the Chip called FP6135518G-08148431-B and It was scorching hot when I touch it. I’m very new to repair but I’m assuming this chip is shorted and needs to be replaced but I cannot find any information on this chip anywhere. Unfortunately this series of the ps2 slim is the only one that does not have the service manual on the internet, so I’m wondering if anyone knows anything about this chip and if it is possible to buy this chip anywhere or is the only way to get this chip is getting an donor board.

Thank you!

Did I damaged the inductors? I was trying very gently to pry the metal shield to get to the heatsinks.

So my GameBoy fell off of my desk yesterday. It still runs just fine, the tape stayed connected, but the plastic shell snapped at the hinge and I have to be very delicate with it. I know this is kind of on the boring side of console repair, but I must ask nonetheless: is this a problem that superglue or some other adhesive can solve? I know next to nothing about fixing things, I’m so sorry.

Hello everyone,

I am in need of some advice or opinion. I got a „broken“ PS5 off a friend for free and am now getting to repairing it. The only broken part is the hdmi port. But if it were this simple then i wouldn’t be posting here. The issue is that someone tried to fix it themselves and ruined the mainboard through that (see pictures). They did say that they got it to show display initially and thought they would make the port a little cleaner and accidentally burned through the board. Is this repairable? If i were to get this repaired by shop how much am i looking at (in € Germany)?
I can’t get any better close up pictures without the quality going worse.

Looking for a decent priced ps5 to jailbreak and came across this one on marketplace. I have dealt with soldering, Liquid Metal etc but this one is a bit new to me. Any tips/suggestions?

PS5 shuts down completely during PS5 games, usually after 5–10 minutes. PS4 games work normally.

UART log

18:13:38 | 80060000 | Main SoC GFX VRM power failure
18:13:38 | B0088108
18:13:38 | C0020303 | Repeated 15 times
18:13:39 | 80000001 | Temperature sensor read failed (FFFF)
18:13:44 | 808B00FF
18:13:58 | 80000009 | Unexpected power loss

Temperature at the time of shutdown:

SoC: 60.06°C (0x3C10)
ENV: 28.44°C (0x1C70)

How can I identify the exact problem? There is no noticeable short around mosfets. I have a thermal camera, but I am hesitant to power on and play games without cooling the surface of the ram and mosfet chips…

Please share your ideas and tips :)

You know how the 3ds SD cards usually click up and down? Well this one is stuck lowered and I have no clue what to do to get it out. Frankly I’m scared of damaging the system SD card reader.
((It’s an SD card adapter because I use a Micro SD card with it))

This has been happening ever since I replaced the digitizer on my DSI XL, the bottom screen would have its brightness cycle constantly even if I don't do anything. Any advice on what could be causing this?

ETA: I noticed that it seems to be happening more frequently when I have a protective case on, so that hopefully narrows down the possible causes

Hey everyone, hoping someone with Jasper board experience can point me in the right direction.

What I’ve done so far

My Jasper Xbox 360 threw RRoD with error code 0022. After I stripped it down to rework the thermal paste I received error 0022, and once I opened the console back up I found a surface‑mount resistor knocked off near the GPU. I scavenged a replacement resistor from an Xbox 360 Slim board and soldered it into place.

After reassembly I’m still getting consistent error 0022, and it occasionally boots to error 0020 — the 0020 fault only pops up rarely. I’ve carefully gone over the whole board with magnification and can’t find any other missing passive components, lifted pads or obvious broken traces anywhere else.

this white PS2 slim I just purchased has a minor, but very interesting issue that I’ve never seen in my life. The piano chord sound on startup is missing, but the atmospheric wooshing noises are present, and there appear to be white lines in the Browser for like a second or so. More concerning is that when I put in an FMCB card and try to load up any homebrew applications (ULaunchElf, OPL) it just stays on a black screen, and I’m not sure if it’s connected to any of these issues too. Games load up fine though without any issues. I already tried changing the video settings, using different AV cables, and cleaning the AV port itself.

Hey everyone, I’m the person behind Mod Axis, a small British brand focused on Xbox Series X|S controller repair kits.

I’ve been taking controllers apart myself and putting together a kit of replacement exterior parts and tools for DIY repairs. The photos show the updated kit, alongside a controller I dismantled to demonstrate what’s underneath the shell.

The kit includes a connected LB/RB bumper assembly, LT and RT triggers, two plastic replacement thumb sticks, a D-pad, a sync plate, two screwdrivers, a pry tool and 16 spare screws.

Just to be clear, the dismantled controller and its shells are for demonstration and aren’t included. The thumb sticks are plastic caps, not electronic joystick modules, so this isn’t a kit for repairing electronic stick drift.

I’m also working on captioned, step-by-step YouTube guides showing the disassembly process and how to fit replacement parts.

Full disclosure: I sell these kits, so this is my own product, not an independent recommendation. I’d genuinely appreciate feedback from people who repair their controllers: what would make a kit like this more useful, and which repair would you want a guide for first?

Thanks for taking a look!

https://modaxisrepairkits.myshopify.com/

I’m having an issue with a PS4 that won’t update its firmware; it shows error code SU42118-6. This error is typically caused by fuses F6201 or F6202, but those fuses are fine.

After looking into it further, I’ve been told that this error can also be caused by fuse F5001. I’ve been searching the board, but I can’t identify which one it is usually, fuses have a letter marking to identify them. I’ve attached an image; could someone point out which one it is?

have had this ds for 11 years and a couple years ago it stopped turning on at first the screen would flash with a pop and now nothing unless its plugged in. (couldn’t figure out how to add more videos but nothing happens when its not plugged in) it has all my old save data from when i was a kid so would love to get it up and running again.

I have a virtual boy I am trying to repair. The console originally had a display issue which was remedied by soldering in replacement eye patch ribbon cables. Worked great and was played for maybe 30 minutes a couple times. After being brought home, it stopped working during a game and never turned back on. The console's small DC power board has a red light when turned on and the speakers make a quiet pop sound when the console is turned off. No other sounds come from the console and no light from the displays. I checked voltages on each of the cable connectors from the main board (although I don't know the correct voltages) and they all appear to be present. What could possibly be be the cause?

Update:

I ordered a whole replacement virtual boy of eBay. I swapped every pcb board and it worked normally again. Foolishly, I started swapping out the pcb boards that I recapped. Now I'm back to having no power or signs of life again no matter the combination of parts. I think I narrowed it down to specifically the servo pcb being the culprit that killed something some where.

Any one else run into anything similar? Any advice?

Hi all

I had an NESRGB (v4) installed in my Sharp Twin Famicom by a modder late last year. When it came back, the RGB picture had faint horizontal bands that pulse in time with the game music. They're most obvious on flat colours (the sky in SMB 1-1 is a good example), and they show up on both my RetroTink 4K and a CRT.

At first the audio was carried through the same DIN socket as the video (PC Engine-style pinout), so we assumed it was audio crosstalk. I'd already tried the correct 7.6V power supply and a few others, so I sent it back. Earlier this year the modder rewired it to the Neo Geo pinout, with the audio taken from the Twin's own audio output to a separate 3.5mm jack, and I bought a Retro Gaming Cables Neo Geo AES stereo SCART to match. The bands were still there.

So I've opened it up myself. The RGB comes out through the Twin's original rear RF-converter socket, with sync from CS#. Here's what I've checked:

- With the audio lead unplugged, the bands are still there

- The console's original composite output, with the NESRGB switched off, is completely clean

- The old tracks to the rear socket have been cut properly: no continuity from either RCA socket to any socket pin

- Adding a ground wire from the NESRGB straight to the socket's mounting lug made no difference

- Moving the RGB wires around made no difference

- Adding an extra ground path to the TV with an RCA lead made no difference

So the music is getting into the RGB somewhere inside the console, but I've run out of things I can test with a multimeter. Has anyone seen this on an NESRGB install, Twin or otherwise? I'm considering recapping the power/AV board or getting it scoped, but I'd love to hear if there's a known fix.

YouTube video of the issue here: https://youtube.com/shorts/oGwUGTMHy6Q?is=u_gOq7Cnl5FHGZSi

Hi all. After 1 year of not using it, i tried to turn it on, wanted to gift it to my little cousin.

It wouldn’t power on with the button or the controller. Only way to turn it on is by putting a disc in. And when it does turn on it just stays in safe mode, and remains there no matter which option i pick.

What i tried so far:

• all the Safe Mode options; they all return to Safe Mode.

• Reinstalled system software 13.52 via USB (both the 480 MB update file and the 1.1 GB reinstallation file). Installation completes, but the console reboots straight into Safe Mode.

• Tested two different HDDs, including one confirmed to be working (from a pc)

• Without the HDD, I get error CE-34335-8.

• No indicator light comes on, even when the console is running. The eject button works.

Any ideas what could be causing this? Could it be a SATA connector, a motherboard issue? Really no clue.

Thank you all.

I have a ps2 slim that is not reading games. I replaced the laser with a replacement I bought off ebay from a seller ive purchased from before but its still not working. Ive also checked the solder blob on the side. Thats fine.

Update: I used my multimeter and saw that the values for the potentiometers were lower than what this model required. I saw that the cd has to be around 500 to 900 ohms while the DVD should be 900 to 1200 ohms. I corrected both of them and its still not reading the games.

Compré una psvita usada y el botón R no responde bien, abrí la consola y me encontre que tenia como un cable delgado de cobre conectado con el gatillo R, creo que es una "reparacion" o intento de esta, pero no se que hacer con ese cable ni como reparar el botón R... ayuda porfavor

This is my first time repairing my controller, I replaced the joystick and towards the end the soldering iron wasn't getting hot enough to do it cleanly.