Looking for a decent priced ps5 to jailbreak and came across this one on marketplace. I have dealt with soldering, Liquid Metal etc but this one is a bit new to me. Any tips/suggestions?

I have a ps2 slim that is not reading games. I replaced the laser with a replacement I bought off ebay from a seller ive purchased from before but its still not working. Ive also checked the solder blob on the side. Thats fine.

Update: I used my multimeter and saw that the values for the potentiometers were lower than what this model required. I saw that the cd has to be around 500 to 900 ohms while the DVD should be 900 to 1200 ohms. I corrected both of them and its still not reading the games.

Context, my ps5 hdmi port is broken, I already paid a technician 79$ to fix it about 2 weeks ago, he tested it very shortly because he was abt to go on vacation for a week, and it worked. Went back home and it didn't. Long story short, when I told him it didn't work, he said he'll fix it for free, however now, he said that the difficulty of the repair is too hard, and that he won't be able to do it, so my question is really just for a qualified technician who has done these repairs before, is this really that hard? A new ps5 locally is about 1000$+ 😔 (The technician is not held accountable for the problem because I had an acquaintance with little to no experience with PS5 repairs DIY the thing beforehand. He said he did PC motherboard repairs and he'll give it a shot.)

Compré una psvita usada y el botón R no responde bien, abrí la consola y me encontre que tenia como un cable delgado de cobre conectado con el gatillo R, creo que es una "reparacion" o intento de esta, pero no se que hacer con ese cable ni como reparar el botón R... ayuda porfavor

Hello everyone,

I am in need of some advice or opinion. I got a „broken“ PS5 off a friend for free and am now getting to repairing it. The only broken part is the hdmi port. But if it were this simple then i wouldn’t be posting here. The issue is that someone tried to fix it themselves and ruined the mainboard through that (see pictures). They did say that they got it to show display initially and thought they would make the port a little cleaner and accidentally burned through the board. Is this repairable? If i were to get this repaired by shop how much am i looking at (in € Germany)?
I can’t get any better close up pictures without the quality going worse.

After my previous post where I finally put my DS Lite back together after 10+ years of sitting in pieces, I discovered, to no great surprise, that the aftermarket battery I had in it was shot, and I'd lost the proprietary charger...

I was hesitant to go and buy yet another aftermarket battery specifically made for the console as there's just no reputable sources to buy them from. They all massively exaggerate their capacity to a comical level, and have likely been sitting on a shelf for years.

So I set out to find a generic replacement battery that would fit inside the battery compartment of the DS Lite. After measuring up the compartment and using a bit of AI help, I found that the 703048 cell will fit the best. It's a hair thicker than the stock battery, and it's not quite as wide as the compartment, but it works great!

For links to the parts I used, I wrote a blog post: https://elvinhome.io/blog/articles-3/modding-the-2006-ds-lite-into-2026-35

This is my first time repairing my controller, I replaced the joystick and towards the end the soldering iron wasn't getting hot enough to do it cleanly.

Did I damaged the inductors? I was trying very gently to pry the metal shield to get to the heatsinks.

Hey everyone, I’m the person behind Mod Axis, a small British brand focused on Xbox Series X|S controller repair kits.

I’ve been taking controllers apart myself and putting together a kit of replacement exterior parts and tools for DIY repairs. The photos show the updated kit, alongside a controller I dismantled to demonstrate what’s underneath the shell.

The kit includes a connected LB/RB bumper assembly, LT and RT triggers, two plastic replacement thumb sticks, a D-pad, a sync plate, two screwdrivers, a pry tool and 16 spare screws.

Just to be clear, the dismantled controller and its shells are for demonstration and aren’t included. The thumb sticks are plastic caps, not electronic joystick modules, so this isn’t a kit for repairing electronic stick drift.

I’m also working on captioned, step-by-step YouTube guides showing the disassembly process and how to fit replacement parts.

Full disclosure: I sell these kits, so this is my own product, not an independent recommendation. I’d genuinely appreciate feedback from people who repair their controllers: what would make a kit like this more useful, and which repair would you want a guide for first?

Thanks for taking a look!

https://modaxisrepairkits.myshopify.com/

I’m having an issue with a PS4 that won’t update its firmware; it shows error code SU42118-6. This error is typically caused by fuses F6201 or F6202, but those fuses are fine.

After looking into it further, I’ve been told that this error can also be caused by fuse F5001. I’ve been searching the board, but I can’t identify which one it is usually, fuses have a letter marking to identify them. I’ve attached an image; could someone point out which one it is?

So my GameBoy fell off of my desk yesterday. It still runs just fine, the tape stayed connected, but the plastic shell snapped at the hinge and I have to be very delicate with it. I know this is kind of on the boring side of console repair, but I must ask nonetheless: is this a problem that superglue or some other adhesive can solve? I know next to nothing about fixing things, I’m so sorry.

Hi All...

Got a faulty Ps5 Which gives the PS5 Logo then goes black sometimes goes until the intro screen, gives the intro music and stays responsive.

First I thought it was just the encoder, tried a different known working encoder, same result.

Checked all filter caps, decoupling caps along hdmi and apu traces, hdmi diode values look fine.

it will stay on the safe boot controller prompt screen for as long as it wants. But when inside the safe mode it will give maybe 5 - 10 seconds before going black.

Also when updating the firmware from the it stayed until completion and did restart, only to go black after the logo with white light.

kind of clueless here and now I think it has something to do with the APU.. maybe a reflow will fix the issue????

this white PS2 slim I just purchased has a minor, but very interesting issue that I’ve never seen in my life. The piano chord sound on startup is missing, but the atmospheric wooshing noises are present, and there appear to be white lines in the Browser for like a second or so. More concerning is that when I put in an FMCB card and try to load up any homebrew applications (ULaunchElf, OPL) it just stays on a black screen, and I’m not sure if it’s connected to any of these issues too. Games load up fine though without any issues. I already tried changing the video settings, using different AV cables, and cleaning the AV port itself.

You know how the 3ds SD cards usually click up and down? Well this one is stuck lowered and I have no clue what to do to get it out. Frankly I’m scared of damaging the system SD card reader.
((It’s an SD card adapter because I use a Micro SD card with it))