tl;dr

Updated for 2025, old guide is here. This one will be shorter!

If you're looking to buy your first cue, or your first 'serious' cue, this info will help.
If you're not patient and just want a tl;dr, or brand recommendations (not in any order):

$~50ish: Imperial, Valhalla
$100ish: Action, Players, Schmelke, McDermott Lucky, Viking
$200-$300: Cuetec Avid, Players PureX, Rhino Nebula
$300+: Cuetec Cynergy, Predator, Mezz, Jacoby, Pechauer, Lucasi, Meucci

This list reflects my own biases mixed with some common recommendations on reddit. But there's plenty of other good brands, and each one has a range of products. There's $200 Viking cues and $2000 Viking cues. I list them in certain price brackets because I think, at that price, they're good bang for your buck.

"Performance"

Performance is mostly about the player. There's not a lot of 'technology' in a cue... it's a stiff rod with no moving parts. It mostly just needs to stay straight, feel ok, and not fall apart. Still, there are some things to consider. Most of the R&D for cues goes into the shaft - the skinny half of the stick. Specifically, manufacturers use different materials and build methods, to reduce deflection.

Deflection

'Deflection' describes what happens when you hit a cue ball with left or right english (sidespin).

What happens when your cue ball hits another ball on the left? That 2nd ball goes to the right. The same thing happens if your stick's tip hits the left side of the cue ball. The cue ball goes to the right... it "deflects" off-course from where you aimed. So you have to adjust your aim to compensate for that.

How far off-course? That depends on the shaft. In this pic the dashed line is where you'd go with no english, the solid black line is where the cue ball might go with a low deflection shaft (about 3-4 inches off course). The red line is where the cue ball goes with a standard, solid maple shaft (about 5-6 inches off). Here's a typical real world shot where this matters. The black line is where I'd aim with an LD shaft. The red line is where I'd aim with a higher deflection shaft. IMO, having to make the big adjustment shown by the red line, looks unnatural and makes using english harder.

For that reason, my main consideration is whether the cue has a shaft with low deflection. Unfortunately, those shafts cost more. If you can't afford it, don't worry about it, standard shafts are fine. World championships have been won with standard shafts.

Bottom line - if you buy an LD shaft, what you're buying is just a different line of aim for shots with sidespin. This line of aim might make sidespin shots feel easier. Any other benefits or drawbacks you hear are mostly myths... they don't give you better spin, or cue ball control, or more draw, or whatever. Anything you can do with them, you could also do with a standard shaft. They just change where you aim shots with sidespin.

Build quality

Common build quality issues include: the cue arriving warped, or gradually warping over time, the tip falling off, the joint not quite screwing tight, the joint unscrewing by itself, and the ferrule (white thing just below the tip) cracking. You can avoid these by just buying reputable brands, or from good dealers who offer a warranty. I like Seybert's, Ozone Billiards, Omega Billiards, and Pooldawg. Like other products, you usually get what you pay for.

There's also some differences in 'feel' with cheaper cues. For example, the shaft might be coated with a sticky clearcoat that doesn't slide smoothly through the hands. They may have excessive vibration, or a weird sound. The joint may not be exactly flush, or the grip is a cheap material that collects sweat. It helps to try before you buy. I don't recommend a cue segmented into more than 2 pieces, or one that has a screw-on tip, or anything below $50.

If you decide to go with a low deflection shaft, you also want to consider how the shaft is built. In a nutshell, low deflection = less mass at the end (the last 8 inches). To make shafts have less mass, they make them skinnier (like 11.75mm instead of 13mm at the tip), and hollow out the core of the shaft. They may optionally fill it with foam so it doesn't feel hollow, and splice together multiple pieces of wood to ensure it stays straight. They can also make shafts out of carbon fiber.

There's no law preventing manufacturers calling their shaft low deflection, even if it isn't, so be wary of any shaft that says it's LD, but is made from a single solid piece of hard-rock maple. Look for something that's been hollowed near the end, or made of CF.

Carbon Fiber

Carbon Fiber (CF) is strong, stiff, and very light. The lightness makes it a good material for a shaft, and many people like the stiffness. But you can get very low deflection with either wood of CF. CF is also nice because it's less likely to warp, ding, or crack. But any shaft can last 20 years if you're careful with it. Note: don't confuse carbon fiber shafts with cheap materials like graphite or fiberglass. If a shaft says it's made of some ambiguous 'fiber composite' and the cue is less than $250, the shaft is probably not carbon fiber. A typical name-brand carbon fiber shaft is $400-$600. The cheapest that I know of are Rhino, at $200. Don't worry about getting a carbon fiber butt... they exist, but there's no advantage to it.

Shaft diameter

The diameter is the thickness of the shaft at the tip. When people talk about tip diameter, they really mean shaft diameter. It matters because one of the major ways to reduce deflection, is to just make shaft skinnier near the tip. This also affects how a stick feels sliding through your hands... a skinny shaft might feel more precise, like you're hitting a very specific part of the cue ball. And you may feel you see the cue ball a little more clearly. It's easier to form a closed bridge around it. On the other hand, it may feel a bit thin or flimsy compared to traditional 13mm shafts. People will tell you a 13mm is more 'forgiving' but no stick will turn your misses into makes. I think lower deflection makes learning the game easier, so I recommend something skinnier if it's in the budget.

A standard cue shaft is 13mm, like a house cue.
12.5mm is a popular size for cues that have reduced deflection, but want to feel 'solid'.
11.75 is a common size for very low deflection shafts.
Anything outside of these ranges is uncommon, and not recommended for a first cue.

Taper

Taper is how rapidly the cue transitions from fat (near the joint), to skinny (near the tip). In pool there's two flavors - conical and pro. A conical taper gets skinnier gradually and consistently, like the shaft is a long skinny cone. A pro taper gets skinnier more rapidly, reaching its narrowest diameter maybe 2/3rds of the way down the shaft, and then stays skinny from that point, all the way to the tip. Most pool shafts are pro taper, as this ensures the shaft doesn't get "fatter" as you pull it back, it stays the same.

Tip

All cues come with a tip installed. Don't get a cue with a screw-on tip, they're trash. Tips come in typically 3 flavors... soft, medium, hard. These labels are subjective and vary between manufacturers. One brand's "medium" might be harder than someone else's "hard". Softer tips mushroom (which can be fixed with the right tools) but are easier to shape and scuff. Harder tips are less likely to mushroom but harder to scuff. Some people will tell you softer tips give you extra spin, or makes shots more forgiving or whatever... these are myths. When in doubt, go with medium. You don't need to worry about size, it's standardized. Recommended tip brands include Kamui, Moori, Tiger, and How, but everyone has their favorite. I wouldn't overthink it.

Break cues and jump cues often come with a special super hard phenolic tip, so it can transfer a bit more energy to the cue ball. You don't want a phenolic tip otherwise.

Joint

There's different types but honestly, you'll never miss a ball because of the joint. As long as it screws together tightly, and stays together, it's fine. If you buy a shaft separately from the butt, you need to make sure the pin type matches. Some joints are more common "standards" like Uniloc, 5/16x18, or 3/8x10. Others are more proprietary and only fit stuff from the same manufacturer.

Butt

Play-wise, the butt is basically just a handle for the shaft. But it's also where you have most of a cue's decoration, and has a big impact on how "nice" the cue looks (and also on the price). High end cues have butts made with one or more nicer types of wood, plus inlaid decorations made of wood or more exotic materials like ebony, ivory, mother-of-pearl, turquoise, gold, silver, etc. Low end cues have very minimal decoration (like a solid single color of stained wood) and don't have inlays, or only very simple ones. Some feature printed graphics. In lower-end cues, these graphics try to "fake" looking like a nicer cue by simulating those inlays I mentioned. Otherhave some illustration or design... a rose, skulls, playing cards, etc.

Wrap

The butt may or may not have a wrap. If it does, common materials include leather, rubber, or irish linen. Irish linen is very popular, it looks like speckled string that's been wrapped around the butt hundreds of times. The wrap is a matter of preference - a cue shouldn't really be in danger of flying out of your hand when you shoot, so mostly this serves as a sweat absorber and a decorative element. You just want to make sure it feels good. If at all possible, try a wrap before you buy, because it's not that easy to remove or replace.

Weight

19 ounces is the default, standard weight. A few people prefer 18. Anything lower is a bit weird but not completely unheard-of. Many people like slightly heavier cues in the 20 or 21 ounce range... the theory is that the added weight keeps the cue from wobbling as much when you swing it. If you happen to be unusually big and tall, you might prefer the added weight and also some added length via an extension. I wouldn't get anything outside the 18-21 range as your first cue. You're not locked into the weight you buy, there's a hollow area in the butt of every cue where a long fat screw called a weight bolt is screwed in. By changing the bolt, you can change the cue's weight.

An extension does what it sounds like... extends the length of the cue. They're sold separately and not a common accesssory for a beginner to have, but if you feel like a normal cue is just too short, it's something to consider.

What should I spend? Is ____ worth it?

Most cues are sold with a "real price" and a "sucker price" - you'll often see a cue online showing it's been marked down by 50 or 100 bucks, but that isn't a 'special deal', the lower price is what the cue actually costs, and if you shop around you see that same number everywhere.

Example - a Cuetec Avid chroma:

Seybert's:
"Regular" price: $255
"Sale" price: $229

Pooldawg:
"Regular" price: $255
"Sale" price: $229

Omega Billiards:
"Regular" price: $255
"Sale" price: $229

Just make sure when you buy, that you aren't paying the sucker price, and don't expect to find too many killer deals unless you buy used... pool cues are one of those things that tend to go for the exact same price everywhere. Some sites offer more options to customize the cue in small ways. As for whether something is 'worth it', that always depends on your income. Roughly speaking, a dirt cheap starter cue is around $50 USD. But if you can hold out for $100 you might get something with OK build quality, a little color, or graphics. For $200, you get some nicer looking inlays and such, but not a low deflection shaft. Around $400-$500 you get cues with LD shafts, and maybe some nicer designs. Beyond $500, you're probably paying paying for the brand name, or for a custom cue that is made to your specs, or really nice inlay work.

How long should a cue last?

In theory, until you die. But wood is wood... it can get worn down or warp over time. Generally, most cues don't warp by themselves, they need to be mistreated... stored improperly, or put through lots of sudden temperature / humidity changes. If a cue arrives warped, or warps soon after you buy it, most reputable sites will replace it.

Tips are supposed to wear out and get replaced, like tires on a car. Maybe once a year or so. Your pool room should have someone who does tip changes... the cost varies but probably it will be more than $10 and less than $40.

What brands are good for a beginner?

Really, anything is fine if you're just starting out. Especially around the $100 bracket. You can just buy based on looks. Be aware that a famous player's name on a cue doesn't necessarily make it a top quality cue. You don't want to decide to buy a cue because it mentions Johnny Archer, the Black Widow, or Minnesota Fats. Commonly recommended starter sticks include Action, Players, Viking/Valhalla, and Schmelke. If I had to pick one specific make and model, I'd say get a Cuetec Avid.

At the more expensive end, if you get a cue with a low deflection shaft, you see lots of recommendations for Predator, Mezz, and Cuetec Cynergy.

Custom cues

"Custom cue" can mean either any cue that isn't mass-produced, or a cue that is literally made to your custom specifications. They tend to be more expensive, ranging from $400 at a minimum, to tens of thousands of dollars for the famous ones. Generally these come with standard shafts.

There's a certain cachet to owning a custom cue... you have a one-of-a-kind that plays exactly the way you want. It's a luxury and status symbol. Most beginners won't want to buy one as their first cue, you can play world-class pool with a $400 production cue, but it's something to keep in mind for later, when you know what you like and can afford something fancier. Be aware that many custom cuemakers are famously behind-schedule... it could take months, even years before your cue is finished.

Break and Jump Cues

Breaking puts a lot of stress on the tip, compacts it and makes it harder, and in rare cases may cause it to come off. So a lot of players prefer not to break with their playing cue. That means you can use a house cue or buy a specialized break cue. For a break cue, I don't consider it quite as important to worry about whether the shaft is low deflection or not. The LD ones are expensive, but generally you won't be using sidespin on the break, and if you do it accidentally... that's a skill issue.

My priority for a break cue would be to look for a good hard tip, and make sure you can try it before you buy. Since you'll be hitting hard with it, any weird vibration or 'feel' will be magnified, so make sure you like the feel.

There are also specialized cues made specifically for doing jump shots, the legal type where you spike downward on the cue ball and bounce it off the slate like a basketball. Jump cues are very short and light, with a super hard tip. Generally, I don't recommend buying cues to solve skill issues, but even with maximum skill, jump shots really need a jump cue. They make shots possible that are simply not viable with a full cue. I've used Predator Air, Cuetech Propel, and Hanshew jumpers. They're all excellent. Good ones tend to be expensive though. There are also hybrid break/jump combo cues. If you're buying one for league, make sure it's legal within the league rules.

Other Questions?

Don't be afraid to post if you have a question not covered here. If possible, try to hit with a cue in real life before ordering. In the lower price ranges, you're mostly just looking for a certain minimum level of quality... basically it should not fall apart, rattle, or feel weird. Once you reach that minimum level (which can be achieved for $100 or so) then the only other thing you'd pay for, performance wise, is a specialty LD shaft. For the most part, cues are priced so that you get what you pay for. Most of the online retailers I've worked with have been great when it comes to issuing refunds, and their pricing is all pretty similar across the board, but some of the best deals I've ever gotten have just been through friends at the pool hall.

We have a Pool Cue Buyer's Guide on the sidebar too, check it out. Also check out Dr. Dave's cue page.

In pool, it's hard to know what the "real" rules are, because there isn't just one set of real rules, even at the pro level.
So this will help you answer any rules questions, but first... you should decide which rules to use.

If you had to play with just one set of rules for pool in the USA, it should be WPA rules -
https://wpapool.com/rules/

The website has a bunch of links, but the one you want is the "Rules of Play" -
https://wpapool.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/2026.01.02-WPA-Rules.pdf

These are the rules that pros use (in most events). The other documents on that site, like "Rule Regulations" covers stuff that mostly only pros and referees need to worry about... things like dress codes, taking breaks in a match, using a shot clock, etc.

You may have also heard of BCA rules. WPA rules are 100% the same as BCA rules. WPA (World Pool Billiard Association) is the governing body for pool worldwide.
BCA (Billiards Congress of America) is the North American branch of WPA.

Where some people get confused is "BCAPL", BCA Player League.

BCAPL is an amateur league started by BCA, and now run by CSI. And there's a few minor differences in the rules. These changes are to make it more accessible to amateurs. For example, in BCA or WPA, if you foul on the break, the cue ball must be played from behind the line. In BCAPL, you get ball in hand anywhere on the table.

BCAPL rules: https://www.playcsipool.com/bcapl-rules.html

There are other popular leagues. APA is the largest league in North America, with several differences from WPA rules. So if you shoot with someone for the first time, you should ask what rules they use. They may only know APA rules, which can be found here: https://rules.poolplayers.com/

One more thing... some parts of the game are left up to whoever is running the tournament or league. For example, some tournaments or leagues may not allow jump cues even though they're legal in a WPA event. Each event will decide if they allow template racks, or where you're allowed to break from. Some long-running events have 'house rules'. For example, the Derby City Classic one pocket event says that if you elevate a cue to 45°, you will not be called for a double hit, while the onepocket.org "official" rules state that a double hit can be called even with elevation. Many bars have their own house rules.

It can be time consuming to scroll through some of these dense rulesbooks, so here's some quick FAQ-type info you can look up.

Racking

8-ball: eight in the middle, any stripe and any solid on the back corners. 
The one doesn't have to go up top. Alternating stripes and solids isn't necessary. 
In APA, the only requirement is 8-ball in the middle.

9-ball: 9 in the middle, 1 up top, the rest should be random.
10-ball: 10 in the middle, 1 up top. In WPA, the rest are random.  
In BCAPL, the 2 and 3 must go on the back corners.

In all games, pattern racking is not allowed.

Breaking

• Breaks can be legal or illegal, and that status is separate from any fouls you commit. It is possible, for example, to have a break that is legal, but still a foul. The reason for the whole legal/illegal thing boils down to whether you can be forced to break gain, or whether the opponent can take the break instead.

• For all rulesets, if you break too soft, or your cue ball was over the line, it's an illegal break. When a break is illegal, usually the balls are reracked and then broken again. For a break to be considered hard enough, at least 4 balls (not counting the cue ball) must touch a rail. In pro events, there may be additional requirements like the 3 point rule, or you have to satisfy a ref that you aren't deliberately soft breaking.

• In 9 and 10 ball, you must hit the head ball. In 8-ball, you can hit any ball. In APA 8-ball, you must hit the first or second rows.
If you fail to do that, it's not a foul, but it's considered an illegal break.

Scratch on the break, or CB jumped off the table -

WPA 8-ball: Behind the line  
BCAPL 8-ball: Ball in hand anywhere  
APA 8-ball: Behind the line  
9 ball and 10-ball, all formats: Ball in hand anywhere

Jumping a ball (not the CB) off the table -

WPA 8-ball: Foul, ball stays down, incoming player can play it from behind the line or rebreak  
BCAPL 8-ball: Foul, ball stays down, incoming player has ball in hand anywhere  
APA 8-ball: Foul, ball is spotted, incoming player plays behind the line. 
9 and 10 ball, any format: ball stays down, ball in hand anywhere. 9 / 10 are spotted.
Jumping the 8 off the table: WPA, BCAPL: spot it. APA: loss of game.

Winning on the break -

8 on the break: WPA, BCAPL: spot it, option to rebreak.  
APA: Instant win, unless you foul, then instant loss.  
9 on the break: Instant win, all formats.  
But, some tournaments may modify this and spot the 9 instead.  
10 on the break: Not a win, gets spotted.

Open table / choosing 8-ball groups

WPA and BCPL: table is always open after the break.   
Some pro events use "take what you make" rules.
APA: take what you make. If you make balls from both groups,   
the table is open, regardless of how many balls you made for each.  
So, if you make 2 stripes and one solid, you are not locked into stripes.

When the table is open, any combo is legal, like a stripe to a solid. But you can't use the 8 as the first ball in a combo. Hitting it early like that is a foul. You can legally do something like stripe - 8ball - solid.

Once you establish groups, it's a foul to shoot balls in the opponent's group.

APA has a special provision for accidentally doing this: the opponent must call the foul before you make your next shot. If they don't, and you make a legal shot, your inning continues. In theory, the opponent can allow you to several balls from their group, then inform you of the foul, but it's considered unsportsmanlike. However, once you make all the balls in a group and you're on the 8, you now take ownership of that group, and can legally pocket the 8 to win.

Calling Shots

You don't have to call "obvious" shots but the rules aren't always clear about what can be considered obvious. In WPA, they mention "banks, combinations, and similar shots" but don't spell out what 'similar shots' means. In BCAPL they spell them out: banks, caroms, kicks, kisses, or "rail contacts that are not incidental".

You only need to call which ball is going into which pocket. You don't need to call whether it touches a rail, or another ball, or any other details. If the right ball goes in the right pocket, you keep shooting. This means that occasionally, you can fluke a shot and continue shooting. For example, let's say you try to slam a shot into the corner, undercut it, and it flies around the table 4 rails before dropping into the same corner pocket. Since the intended ball went into the called pocket, you can keep shooting. This applies to 10-ball and straight pool too.

8-ball: Shots are called in WPA and BCAPL. Not required in APA.  
Calling the 8 however, IS required in APA.  
9-ball: no shot needs to be called, in any format, but some tournaments   
have a 'house rule' that the 9 must be called.  
10-ball: all balls must be called. In WPA, you cannot combo the 10 in early and win.  
It spots and you stay at the table.  
In BCAPL, you can combo it early and win. If you make a ball and call safe,  
 it's treated the same as making any uncalled shot.  
The opponent will come to the table with the option to shoot, or make you shoot again.

In one pocket you don't need to call anything. In banks, you need to call the ball and pocket every time no matter how obvious the bank, and the bank must go cleanly, a kiss off another ball is not allowed.

Early 8-ball, and other early balls

• Outside of the break, making the 8-ball early is an automatic loss in all formats.
• Making the 9-ball early is an automatic win, but some events require calling the pocket.
• Making an uncalled 10-ball early is not a foul, the ball is spotted.
In WPA you can't combo it to win, even if you call it. In BCAPL, you can.

10-ball - "passback" rules, and "Call-shot-call-safe"

In most modern 10-ball events, you only need to call your shot. You don't need to call safeties, since you can't make a ball and call safe. If you don't make your called shot, but make some other shot accidentally, it's treated like a push-out: the opponent can shoot from the current position, or force you to shoot. This applies to the 10-ball too... if you make it in the wrong pocket, it's spotted, and the incoming player has the option.

There's a variant of these rules called passback, or call-shot-call-safe. Under those rules, if you miss any shot, and the opponent doesn't like the leave, they can force you shoot again. To avoid this, you must explicitly call safety. If you played a shot, obvious or not, they can always pass the table back to you. These rules are uncommon.

Safeties and Push-outs

• Making a ball and calling safe is legal in WPA and BCAPL 8-ball. If you fail to say "safety" before the shot, and it could be considered an obvious shot (e.g. not a bank) you must keep shooting. In APA, you cannot make a ball and play safe. If any ball drops, you must keep shooting.

• Otherwise, if you're not planning to make a ball, calling safe is optional in all formats. APA encourages it to make scorekeeping easier.

• In WPA or BCAPL, both 9-ball and 10-ball, you can play a push-out after the break. You have to declare it, there's no such thing as an "obvious push-out". Any ball you pocket on a push-out, stays down, except the game-winning ball.

Accidental Touches

In WPA, touching any ball (with hand, hair, clothes, etc) is a foul. Playing this way is called "All ball fouls".
In BCAPL, it is "Cue ball fouls only", meaning it's NOT a foul to nudge one object ball, but is illegal to disturb the cue ball.

It's also a foul if you nudge multiple balls. In BCAPL, if a ball gets bumped, the opponent has the option to leave it in position or put it back. The shooter can't put it back unless his opponent gives permission. Also, it's a foul if you move just one ball, but that bump might change the outcome of the shot.

In APA, it's cue ball fouls only, and if you bump an object balls, they must go back to their original locations. There's no option to leave them there. This is still the case if multiple balls are moved. Also, if your cue ball settles where a bumped ball used to sit, the bumped ball is put back as close as possible to its original location, "in a fair manner".

Push Fouls

The meaning of "push shot" or "push foul" has effectively changed over time. Originally, it meant a shot where the the tip "rides" the cue ball for an extended period of time, pushing it along like a shopping cart. This kind of foul is very rare. In modern pool, 99% of the time, "push shot" is used to describe a double hit foul, in cases where the double hit happens too fast to see.

Double hits are always illegal, but different leagues and tournament will have different policies for enforcing the foul.

In WPA, and BCAPL - if two balls are frozen, you can shoot into the cueball and it's not considered a double hit, because both balls leave the tip simultaneously. But if there's any gap between them, it may be called a double hit. Additionally, if you hit the shot slowly, the tip may stay on the cue ball too long and you'll be called for the other kind of push foul. You can avoid this by "shooting away" from the object ball, meaning you cut the object ball sharply or "thin" it.

APA does not call push fouls when two balls are frozen, but doing it repeatedly may be considered unsportsmanlike.

Behind the Line vs. Ball in Hand

Generally, fouls are penalized with ball in hand anywhere on the table. Shooting from behind the line is a "bar rule", or oldschool rule from 50 years ago. There are exceptions though.

WPA, APA 8-ball: scratch or jumped ball on the break = behind the line.  
BCAPL 8-ball: fouling on the break = ball in hand anywhere.  
9 & 10 ball: ball in hand anywhere, always.  
1 pocket: behind the line, always.

When playing behind the line, only the base of the ball needs to be behind the line in most games.
But in one pocket, the whole cue ball must be behind the line, and any ball you shoot at must be fully past the line.

Jumping

In all games, it's illegal to jump by hitting super low and 'scooping' the cue ball up into the air.
If a game allows jumping, you have to strike downward on the cue ball at an angle, bouncing it off the surface like a basketball.
If a scoop jump happens accidentally, it's considered a miscue and is not a foul.

8-ball: Legal jumps are traditionally not allowed, but not banned in the rulebook.  
It's up to the organizer or league.  
In APA, jump cues are banned, so it must be done with a full cue.  
9-ball and 10-ball: Always allowed.  
1-pocket: full cue only, but most events ban them altogether.

Three foul rule

• In 9 and 10-ball, 3 consecutive fouls by the same player is loss of game.
• In one pocket, it's also a loss of game.
• APA 9-ball doesn't have this rule.
• 8-ball doesn't either, but some tournaments choose to add it.

In all games with a 3-foul rule, the player must be notified they're "on 2", before they commit the third foul. WPA specifies they must be notified as they come to the table. BCAPL doesn't say that, but does require that the opponent acknowledges the warning.

Five second rule

In all games, if a ball hangs on the edge of the pocket for more than 5 seconds, then drops, it gets put back where it was.
In APA the exact wording is "a few" seconds.

Stalemate

In all games, if neither player can advance the game, it's considered a stalemate and the balls are reracked, and the original breaker will break again.

• In WPA, if the ref decides the game is not progressing, he must warn players about a possible stalemate. Then, if they fail to advance the game after 3 full innings (3 turns from each player) then the stalemate is called. If the players agree, they can skip the 3 turns and go right to the re-break.

• In BCAPL, the ref doesn't have to warn players. If the game doesn't progress for 3 innings, it's considered a stalemate.

• In APA, players must agree to a stalemate regardless of how many turns pass without progress.