guying selling LE109 floors. asking $290 would like to negotiate for $230

https://hifi-wiki.com/index.php/Canton_LE_109

I have KEF Q55 which are nice and are my first step into "hi fi" I had other shitty sattelite speakers but these KEF were a revelation. I know theyre not wow level but for me it was like a right hook getting in this world. I hadnt realised it would be night and day and this is like level one on the scale

down the rabbit hole. ive purchased a 2nd AVR and want a next step up at a very budget level price wise with better audio then the Q55

the Q55 im wanting to use for tv use and the canton LE109 for pc's

do they have a distinct sound like some brands have?

seller doesnt have anything to test with. sold most of his things. he said I can take and if they dont work can return but im wondering before buying how are cantons in general? do they sell crap line vs high end?

for instance wharfedale have the atlantic and valdus which look impressive but not great. so curious

any feedback appreciated

Welp, to end off the trilogy of upgrading my mic from the razer siren v3 mini (sorry bud you gotta go), I have officially knocked down my list to two options after finding them on ebay for a decent price. The hyper X quadcast 2s and the shure mv7. Now I just need to know which is better and is the most reliable. Any thoughts?

I would like to implement a whole home audio system in an upcoming house remodel, but I have limited experience with full on audio systems and want to make sure I'm thinking through this the correct way.

I would like to have 6 audio zones (living room, kitchen/dining room, 2x bedrooms, basement, and outdoor deck/patio area) with independent audio to each. The audio sources include a healthy mix of different devices including computers, Bluetooth receivers, potentially a TV, broadcast radio receiver, and others. I plan to utilize a mixer to take in these inputs and provide individually mixed outputs for the audio zones, currently looking at the Behringer XR18 and its 6 aux output capability.

I am thinking of using ceiling speakers with each zone having 1-4 depending on size. My thought is likely 1 speaker in the bedrooms, 2 in the living room, 2-3 in the kitchen/dining room, and 3-4 in the basement. The outdoor deck/patio is covered so I am thinking ceiling speakers as well but would want something made for outdoor/wet environments. Due to size of the space and how it is used there would probably be 4 speakers, with potentially a 5th in an adjacent indoor room. With this configuration I will likely plan for a switch to disconnect/turn off the outdoor audio but keep the indoor room operating for year-round and nighttime use.

I will have a network rack in the basement and would like to have the audio distribution equipment located there with only single cables running to the audio zones. I hope to avoid needing to run power separately to the speaker locations. The project can be thought of as pretty much a clean sheet with little in the way of wiring limitations, but I am planning on centralizing equipment network-wise with UPS backup which would make sense to apply to the audio system as well.

I work in two way radio communications and we sometimes use 70V audio systems to distribute audio from a base station radio throughout buildings. I have so far been basing my design off these concepts since it is a similar use case, but am struggling with amplifier choice. All of the multi-zone amplifiers I have found so far appear to be a single audio stream with the ability to apply different volumes across the zones. The only amplifiers that I have found that may possibly handle separate streams are extremely expensive commercial ones made for very large buildings. Since I am planning on handling the source selection and audio mixing separately, I really only need amplification for the speakers. I have also looked into separate single channel amplifiers but have not been successful in finding a basic amplifier for reasonable cost that scales across 6 zones.

I see a lot of people recommending Sonos or other similar streaming oriented audio systems. I've looked at these only briefly so forgive me if I missed something, but I'm not sure these would even work for me. As I alluded to above, streaming may be one audio source input to the system but by no means the primary use case.

I am open to suggestions. Again, I have limited experience with audio systems and may be going down a completely wrong path. I am by no means dead set on a 70V system it is just what I am most familiar with from some work experience, and another non-constant voltage design may be more appropriate. I am also not opposed to wireless but would like to have hard mounted components, not speaker modules strewn about on dressers/tables/shelves and do not want to deal with batteries. I am also not opposed to network based devices, however I would want that communication to stay within my LAN and not rely on outside services or proprietary phone apps to function. Ideally, integration into Home Assistant in some way for control would also be preferred.

TLDR:
Looking for recommendations to implement zoned whole home audio system:

• 6 zones with independent mixed audio streams. 1 zone primarily outdoor with indoor component, want to turn off outdoor portion when not in use.
• Each zone has 1-5 speakers depending on size/use/location.
• Planned multiple audio sources and types that can be mixed for individual zone outputs.
• Hard mounted speakers, likely ceiling mount. Prefer no portable type speakers.
• Prefer to power from central location, avoid dealing with batteries.
• Any network use should stay local within LAN and not rely on outside services/cloud.
• Home Assistant integration for control of source selection/audio mixing/volume per zone.

Appreciate any input.

Equipment: Maono PD400X (XLR), Maonocaster E2

I had an issue one time where my microphone stopped recording. The PD400X is connected to the Maonocaster E2 via XLR cable. So, I troubleshooted by turning on 48V and the dynamic mic turned on for a moment before getting weaker until it was choppy. I then turned off the 48V and unplugged/plugged the PD400X back in the interface and it seems to be working just fine now.

My question is would turning on the phantom power on the audio interface a couple of times while it's connected to the PD400X potentially did any damage? What are your thoughts?

I appreciate that this is probably a really dumb question, but the reason behind it is slightly unusual.

I have a video that I made where I am testing a window and showing to the viewer that it doesn’t work. It was captured in a really (REALLY) old house.

You can hear me breathing but then there is a weird voice that can be heard. A voice that sounds nothing like me at all. The odd part is, I was in this old house on my own.

Was it a ghost? Or was it me? People who have listened tend to fall on one side or the other, depending on how woo woo they are. I’m trying to put a bit of science / technology behind it.

Unfortunately I am basically a digi-twat, so need your help. Can it be done and how?

Thanks!

Hi! Based on Philippines here. Looking for a good starting mic thats alright for streaming and for when I use it during meetings. Right now my pick is Fifine AM8 but i want to explore more options🙏

I would prefer it if it has really good noise cancellation since I'm sharing a room with another person and the distance between us just around 3-4ft (i'm dorming so we're packed lol). My budget is $100 and would like it if its available here in Phil!

Trying to get this Astatic D104 microphone to work with my computer. I'm using a 4pin to 3.5mm TRRS adaptor so I can connect it to my desktop.

Problems:

- Volume is too soft.

- When the Push-to-Talk button is not pressed, there is a loud constant hum.

Here's what I have tried:

- Placed the battery inside the base

- Turned the volume knob to the highest

- Turned the input level to the highest for my microphone in system settings

Do you think it's the adaptor's problem? When I got this microphone the seller said it's been tested and working. I'm asking the adaptor seller to see if there's any solutions. Please let me know if you have any ideas. It'd be cool to get this microphone working to be used as a desktop microphone.

Google Drive link to audio test

https://youtu.be/zTTMN3xTKzw

Excuse me if this is the wrong sub; r/fieldrecording doesn't approve links and I think showing the sample will be helpful. 

The Zoom, when recording with its own microphone, never makes this sound (however, I got it specifically to plug external microphones into). There are two DJI Mic 3 transmitters wirelessly connected with their receiver, which is plugged into the Zoom's 3.5 mm input. The internal recordings of the transmitters of the same session have no buzz; it's only on the Zoom.

I wear the microphones on my clothes and walk outside. I start in my room, go on a quiet street, then a busier street, but the sound is there in all scenarios. 

Auto-gain vs. manual, and battery vs. power supply; on all these modes the buzz is still there. The only thing is it seems to happen more at the beginning of a long take than throughout it (but it still happens in small amounts throughout), and it is usually panned more towards the left-ear (which is Transmitter #1's sound), although in rare occurrences it swishes towards the right ear.

I will be grateful for responses.

By the way, would you recommend any other gear instead of the Zoom H1n, for what I want to do? It is to have a backup in case my DJI Transmitter internal recordings don't work, but I found I really liked the sound of the Zoom too, and if this buzzing sound didn't happen I would want to use the Zoom's recording. 

I have an ancient set of Mission bookshelf speakers. They came with an equally old Dennon stereo from 30+ years ago. The only readable info is:

- Enclosure type: 2-way reflex

- recommend amp power: 25-75 W/ch

- nominal impedance: 8 Ohms

My sound card is built-in to my motherboard. It is listed as Realtek ALC1220-VB HD Audio.

What amp or amp-plus-what would I need to use these with my PC.? If it matters I'm running Linux Mint.

Cheers

Hey everyone! I'm looking for some advice on whether upgrading my audio mixer would actually make a noticeable difference in my microphone's sound quality.

My current setup is:

• Microphone: Shure SM7B
• Gain booster: TritonAudio FetHead, to provide additional clean gain
• Audio mixer: MaonoCaster G1 Neo (a cheap mixer I chose partly because it provides phantom power for the Shure SM7B)

I've been wondering whether upgrading to a higher-quality audio interface or mixer would give me a noticeable improvement in sound quality, such as a cleaner signal, less background noise, or better overall audio.

I know the SM7B is a relatively gain-hungry microphone, which is why I use the FetHead. I don't know if that is the best for the mic, I know there is also the Cloudlifter CL-1 Mic Activator but am unsure if it is worth the while compared to the fethead.

I'd appreciate recommendations for upgrades that are genuinely worth the money, especially for streaming and gaming, rather than spending more just for the sake of having expensive gear.

the beat is from youtube and doesn’t sound too bad but i feel like the vocals sound awful and i can’t figure out why. i’m using a sm57 to record into an audiobox presonus 22vsl. should probably also mention i am recording about 6 inches away from the mic but have tried at many different distances with same outcome.

Hello everyone, first time posting on this sub.

Seen this old Bose Acoustic Wave 2 I had seen at a thrift store. I remember all the commercials on TV and ads in magazines years ago, but I never heard one in person, is it as great as they say? Or should I buy something else entirely new and save my cash on something much better.

I'm going to a conference in a few days time and I'd like to summarise what the speakers say. I can of course write notes down but I find it isn't quick/legible enough.

I've just bought a £30 digital recorder (COVVY). I know it's very cheap but has anyone had any experience with these? All I need is a recording good enough for AI to understand. I'll try not to be sitting at the back because I'd like to take some pics too.

There are no legal restrictions on recording speakers, for private use.

I bought a Rode shotgun mic for use with my Sony cinema cameras

Tell me why every time I use the Rode mics I get tons of static into my films

I also have a Sennheiser MKE 600

Tell me why when I use the Sennheiser I get crystal clear audio that can pick up whispers

The Rode ruined my film, I have tons of scenes with static audio and I used it to attach it to my gimbal for street scenes

I’m seriously upset and will never buy Rode again

Also I asked ChatGPT and it said Rode mics do not pair well with Sony internal amps, this is bullshit

So occasionally, a weird sound has been coming out of the left speaker of our turntable setup. Initially, we thought it was just the wind of the fan hitting the stylus, but we've ruled that out. I know the sound is isolated to the left speaker because it doesn't come out when we shift the balance to be pure right speaker, and it's a lot louder when the balance is shifted to the left.

We're tried fixing the wire by recutting it on both ends (both on the side of the speaker and the amplifier). We've also tried plugging it into a different socket.

Is the issue with the speaker itself? Anything else we need to rule out?

Hello! I have a speaker that is constantly making a low humming noise, and I'm wondering how to make it stop. I've tried attaching it to a power bar and tried a different outlet, neither of which helped.

Currently the speaker is:

- Plugged into the wall.

- Not connected to my record player or any other piece of equipment, and

- Switched off.

Yet the humming continues until I unplug it.

Any help is appreciated.

So I’m trying to use my headset for pc and ps5, the photos from left to right are the connectors for the headset, then the adapter to turn them in to one and finally the adapter to make them 3.5mm. The audio comes trough fine and the stereo function works great BUT when I try to use the mic attached to it i can’t get it to work, any ideas on what I’m doing wrong or how to fix?

Edit: to answer questions, the headset is a KORE KA-1 Aviation Headset for Pilots - 24dB NRR Passive Noise Reduction, Noise Canceling Mic, Gel Ear Seals, Mono/Stereo, AUX Input, GA Dual Plugs, my goal is to use it for either my pc OR ps5 and I really only need the mic for when I use it on the PS5

​

UPDATE:: I REALLY NEED AN AUDIO ENGINEER, AND POSSIBLY ONE WHOM ALSO HAS AUTISM, SENSORY NEEDS, OR JUST AN AUDIOPHILE

After reevaluating my original diagram, I think I can summarize the sound I am seeking a little better. I want both of these at the same time (when most headphones head in 1 direction or the other in unison) 1. Sounds directly in front and behind my ears to be close and warm which makes 8d audio feel truly immersive 2. But sounds farther away in my peripheral to be precise, articulate, and slightly flattened to reduce shrill/pitchy tones.

OP: I'm looking for a replacement to my headphones that I will serve me very well for a long time... but I’m struggling to describe what I want. I thought I understood terms like “immersive” and “accurate soundstage,” but trying headphones known for those qualities often gave me the opposite of what I expected.

I’m a music teacher, so I feel a little ridiculous struggling to explain this, but I know next to nothing about audio engineering.

I have autism and ADHD and rely on noise-cancelling headphones to get through the day. I listen to binaural beats, isochronic tones, meditation music, and hypnosis that combines them. Sensory language is the most accurate way I can explain what I need, so please bear with me.

I currently use Soundcore Space One Pro headphones, which have been one of the best sound matches I’ve found. I’m attaching my HearID profile and a drawing to help explain.

The sound I’m looking for

I want sound that feels slightly warm, full, and close, but wide from left to right. Imagine it extending sideways from my ears toward the walls of my room, while staying close in front and behind me.

I want to feel “nuzzled in,” without feeling claustrophobic.

I’ve described it as a “weighted blanket” of sound. Think of ASMR videos that give you intense tingles, but apply that feeling to music. I still want clarity, without shrillness or distracting bass vibration. BUT I desperately want that 8d immersion/bilateral feel.

Too often, I find sound that is precise but lacks body, or warm but muddy. Specifically:

- Headphones I tried for an “accurate soundstage” sounded too bright, hollow, or “pitchy” to me. It felt as though warmth had been sacrificed for precision.

- Others I tried for an “immersive” sound felt too warm, muddled, or hazy.

These are my experiences with the headphones I tried. I’m unsure whether I’m using those terms correctly.

What I noticed during HearID

Each of the six A/B comparisons seemed to change the sound in a different area around my head. The numbers in my drawing show where I perceived those changes. I don’t know what the app was technically changing, but here’s what I heard:

1. Chose A: Warm, close, and full. B sounded bright, hollow, and far away.

2. Chose B: Distant, airy, and precise. A sounded full but had an echo.

3. Chose A: Bright and open, although slightly hollow. B sounded close and muffled, making me feel boxed in.

4. Chose B: Wide and clear. A sounded close and muddled.

5. Chose B: Full, with an EDM feel. The best words I have for A are “stale” and “straight.”

6. Chose B: Full, with sound wrapping around my ears from front to back. A sounded faint and “pitchy.”

I’m keeping my sensory descriptions because I’d rather explain what I actually heard than replace them with technical terms that might be wrong.

What would you call this combination of qualities, and which headphones would you recommend trying? Am I mixing up tonal balance, soundstage, imaging, or something else? Knowing what language to look for in reviews would help.

My maximum budget is around $400.

Hello everyone,

I´m new into audio. I always just recorded one person so I had no problems. Now I have two persons in a dialogue with two mics.

I will have two audio tracks but the two microphones pick up what the other person says too. For example Person A talks and in the mic from the Person B you can hear Person A but 20-40% less dominant. I dont have a boom operator or can always turn down the other person. Do I need to cut out then the Person B mic ? My other following question is how do I do that if they interrupt themselves or talking both at the same time / laughing etc. Then I think its very hard to cut in between and turn off the other mic ?

Will this cause "long editing" for my understanding its like I cut a very long video twice. One time where I edit, cut etc. and the other time where I try to turn on and off the two mics ?

I would appreciate any help and answers.

I work with a client who has severe traumatic brain injury. He can no longer sing or swallow, but was a musician before his injury. He has a 20+ old MP3 file of terrible quality that he wants to publish. I found a few apps that will clean up some of the noise, but they don’t appear to be worth the cost. Does anyone have any suggestions? He doesn’t have the money to get the assistance of a sound engineer or anything, we just want the quality to be better enough for him to publish. This is also the only audio recording of his voice. I appreciate your suggestions!

For the last two months, my DynAudio monitors have been making this static/crackling noise.

This started happening after I moved into my new apartment. I switched around the XLR cables, updated my focusrite audio drivers and plugged my monitors in different outlets and nothing changed.

The only thing I can think of is that during transport, they may have been exposed to heat from direct sunlight at certain points while they were in the truck in transportation, as I didn’t the original box or a box big enough to pack it in. I packed it in a plastic container. Anyways, does anyone know the cause and is this repairable? What should I do? Thank you!

Hi there! I’m looking to extend how far away I can place my two Pioneer speakers from my TransAudio amp. I understand that the cords to the left and right speaker need to be equidistant regardless of the spacing of the speakers to avoid any sound delay.

My main question is, can I use this modern generic speaker cord or do I need something more specific? If this cord is okay, I imagine I’ll have to also buy some sort of “head” to connect the cord to the devices?

Thank you in advance for any help!!

There's nothing to go off besides, the brand and the cable, i know very little about speakers and was wondering if these are passive or active or other, and would like to know if I need an amp or something to plug into my pc

I'm just starting to freelance as a singer and I was advised to buy the ES602 speaker from DB Technologies (https://www.dbtechnologies.com/us/products/discontinued-products/es-602#overview) for budget-ish friendly but a good quality sound system with a Shure SM58 microphone to use with it.

It took ages for my package to arrive and my return deadline has already passed. I spent a lot of money on this system and now that I finally have it I have come to find out that there is no way for me to manipulate the sound at all from the speaker. I was under the impression when I bought this speaker that it was a monitor with built-in reverb options that I could control but it has no option whatsoever to play around with the sound. As you might know as a singer I heavily rely on the reverb option to make my voice sound good in different spaces and more musical when I sing and there's no way for me to use this sound system as a singer if I can't add any reverb whatsoever. I live in a place where fast shipping is not a thing and it is very difficult to return products that you buy overseas so there's no way for me to return this system unfortunately.

I'm looking for a solution as to how I can fix this problem of mine so that I can continue to work as a singer. Whether it be a different speaker that I could buy after selling this one or if there's an external option that I could connect to my speaker. Anything that I can do that won't break my bank and won't make this purchase a meaningless waste of my money. Please I'm desperate.