Lived in the same Bangkok condo for four years. The landlord's AC was a non-inverter from way back, probably older than me, and it worked but ate the electricity bill. In July I negotiated to swap it, picked a Comfee Gusto 1.5HP split off Shopee because the stock was in Bangkok and the install slot was reasonable. The landlord agreed in exchange for extending the lease.
First real test of the inverter was the bill that landed in September. 2,620 THB versus 3,900ish same time last year, same room, roughly same usage pattern. But the new residential tariff kicked in in August so the two savings got mixed together. Can't fully separate what's the new unit versus the new 3 baht tier but I'd guess maybe 60/40.
What I actually notice day to day. The cycling is almost invisible compared to the old one. Previous unit was clearly audible going on and off, especially at night. This one you kind of forget is running until it's not. Air feels less dried-out too, which I didn't expect to care about but do.

Will see what October looks like once that bill comes.

Does anyone know of a simple calculator or app for laying out sheet metal transitions?
Ideally, I’d like to enter the dimensions of both ends, the rise, and any offsets, and have it automatically generate a complete cut list with all the measurements needed to lay out and fabricate the transition.
I’m looking for something straightforward that doesn’t require AutoCAD or expensive fabrication software. Just enter the dimensions and get a printable layout or cut list.

Does something like this already exist, or should I look into building a simple app?

Would anyone be interested if lidar could be utilized for all the measurements and generate a cut list?

If you know of anything, please post it here.

I moved into an old house and renovated it last year. The house has two AC units. Unfortunately, on one side, the filter was not properly in place and I later learned the evaporator coil was covered in drywall and paint. (The return vent for this AC is also next to the kitchen, where there was a lot of cabinet and countertop work).

That side of the house didn't cool as well as the other side (which has a different AC unit). And I worried about breathing in drywall and dust all the time. I talked to an AC guy about it he said he couldn't clean it with a no-rinse spray, but he could try removing it and cleaning. However, he wasn't sure if he could get all the drywall and paint off. He also offered to replace it (which cost more of course). Another AC guy came and also quoted cleaning (for a lot more) or replacing (for the same price).

After many months, I finally decided to replace it. The installer got a new evaporator coil. He told me after he installed it that he sprayed Biofresh (although not entirely sure where).

Well it's definitely cooling better now. But I've also noticed that when this AC is running, on this side of the house, my nose feels irritated. Initially my eyes and throat did too but that seems to have gone away.

Is this normal? The AC guy said he hasn't heard of a reaction like that to a new coil or biofresh before. Nobody else in my house notices anything different (except the better cooling). My daughter, who is normally as sensitive as I am, said her nose feels normal and she doesn't feel anything.

I figure this may be a new coil thing, or maybe the biofresh, and that it'll dissipate soon. I've been running it with the windows open a fair amount over the weekend which seems to help. It's definitely less irritating that it was a few days ago. Is this just a new coil off-gassing or something that dissipates as it gets used? I guess it's also possible that this kicked up some dust or something and that got somewhere into the air flow.

Hey everyone,

I have a newer inverter Hisense AC and noticed that the vertical position 1 is a bit high than what it seems it could be (that it could be blowing even lower directly to the ground). It’s the same in app or via remote and somehow I managed to set it a bit lower accidentally once (like a starting position) but never again. Does anyone have any tips for this?

What could be the issue of this rattling noise? The company that installed the unit says it’s within spec and refuses to do any work. It is a 2 year old Lennox, I don’t know if it was doing it since day 1 of the install because I just moved in recently. This is not even my unit- it is coming from the neighbor.

The HVAC tech shows up with a decimal meter which registers 72dB and says there is nothing he can do.

Any ideas from the pros?

This is my old AC indoor unit on my parents house, I have this AC for very long time. I'm always cleaning and service routinely on every three months. it doesn't have the problem until one week ago it suddenly make this constant and sometime rhythmic noise. the blades on the roller fan are completely intact and fine. from what I can hear, the sound is coming right in the center of evaporator. I did pull out the fan like 3 times to make sure it is not my evaporator, and indeed, when I turned the AC On without fan, it doesn't make the sound... I think the problem is the airflow that causes this ticking sound... but not so sure, because the fan didn't make any contact with anything. and from what I can see, the fan is wobbly on the motor side, or on the right side where it is more prominent. so probably this subtle wobble causing this sound? I applied new grease for the rubber bearing, but I don't know what causing this noise. maybe somebody in here have this experience before. it is bugging me out because the noise is there but I don't know where it comes from...

Thank you for your help
I want to layout everything
Hopefully you can suggest a product that will work to bring in the mini split cold air

Bathroom 6 x 7 with a powerful exhaust heater system
Window with split doors 3 piece bathroom

Wall A contains doors
Wall B sink commode window
Wall c faces the doors
Wall D shower beside wall C but on Wall D are Open built in shelves beside wall a
Behind wall D on the sunroom side is an outlet

Intake unit can sit on the shelves in the bathroom or install on this wall. Shelves are 12” deep x 24” wide

Need an intake fan strong enough to pull cold air from the 20 ft long sunroom to the bathroom
Sunroom also has a 70 inch ceiling fan
Mini split sits directly across from the bathroom 20 feet away

Air intake fan will not be near water only possible dampness as the exhaust turns on with the light

Would like thermostat that will auto turn on and off as needed

Cannot run through ductwork. It will have to go through a wall and preferably plug in

Thank you for your help

Hi, our AC outdoor unit makes this sound sometimes for a few mins but sometimes a bit longer like an hour. I was a bit worried since it's a bit loud. I wanted to know if this is normal and if I should seek warranty since It's only been around 6 months since I bought it.

Model is 42CEP018308, I'm from the Philippines for reference. I hope someone can help. Thank you!

My bedroom is about 140 sqft, second floor, window faces west so it bakes all afternoon and is still hot at like 10pm. every BTU sizing chart says a 5,000 BTU unit covers "up to 150 sqft" but that clearly assumes a normal room, not an oven.

does afternoon sun + top floor change the sizing that much? for anyone with a similar room, did going bigger actually help, or does an oversized unit just short-cycle and leave the room clammy? trying to decide if I should spend more on a 6,000–8,000 or if that's wasted money.

also is an inverter actually worth it for a bedroom or is that mostly a noise thing. trying to stay under ~$300 if that matters.

Hi all. Bought a 20 year old home in North Queensland, basically every room has a wall hung air con. Lounge room has a LG S12AHP-NE6 that cools very well, however it seems like a thermostat mechanism is not working as expected. Even when set to 25c it never cycles/cuts out and just keeps pumping cold air even when the room is down to 18c. The original remote must have been lost long ago as it has a generic aftermarket remote. I read somewhere that some units rely on a sensor in the remote to gauge the temperate in the room and adjust their output accordingly. Is anyone familiar with this model, and can you confirm if the remote is where it would be sensing the room temp? If that is the case, I'm thinking $50 on a genuine LG remote might be a quick fix? Alternatively is it likely to be a thermistor or diode or something inside the unit? Thanks for your help.

I've concerted my Sencor MT1803CH cooling & heating into a dual hose, and currently testing it for heating in the winter.

As outside temp approaches 0°C, evaporator understandably collects a lot of ice, which I didn't know how I would get rid of.

Today the AC stopped suddenly, and started making a weird compressor sound without any fans running, and water started dripping out of the collection port. It appears to have reversed the cycle to defrost the evaporator. Then it just started running normally again.

Seems like the problem has solved itself.

Hello all!

I've recently been wanting to get a portable split-ac to make the climate-change induced Dutch summers more bearable. I'm renting so a built in one is sadly not an option.

I've got a 55 square meter house, altough Im thinking of mainly attending to the bedroom, which is about 13-14 square meters. As its the place I also work and study in most. I'm considering of what would be the best value out of possible devices. Currently I'm undecided on getting either of two options.

-option 1: Getting two caravan split acs of 3000 BTU (can get these for around 250-320 second hand with warranty)

-option 2: Getting one caravan split ac of 5000 BTU (can get these for around 450-500 second hand with warranty)

I guess what's got me on the fence is the fact that having two 3000 BTU ones would technically allow for the flexibility of placing one in the living room (approximately 20-25 square meters. Although I'm unsure of how often I'd bother doing that in practice. Additionally, if these caravan style split ACs are not worth the effort, or the larger 12000 BTU split models are more worth while, I'm all open to suggestions!

Lost wifi connection to my Friedrich AC unit via the FriedrichLink app. Called customer support and apparently the app is down, anyone else experiencing?

I hope this is the right place to ask this.

After discovering that one of our portable AC's tripped the breaker, we turned it off but left it plugged in (as the plug was behind some heavy furniture).

Our breaker tripped twice after that, even though the unit was completely off and nothing else was running.

Is having an off unit still plugged in somehow still tripping the breaker? I understand that having something plugged in does still have some small draw on electricity, but enough to trip a breaker?