This is a kyt1000a-261 that i just replaced a burned out compressor on. A bit newish to ice machines but according to the manual, the pressures looked good while in the freeze cycle. Im noticing in the photo that the middle of the evap, its not freezing like the top and bottom is and theres a sharp fall off between where the ice is freezing well and where its freezing poorly. My guess is plate separation? All other components are working too.

I got two of the attached model serial unit coolers running off one dtav40 intermatic and a ranco with one llsv. Basically I wired em in parallel. I knew dtfd wouldn't be independent. meaning I knew when cooler a was ready for coolin even if cooler b wasnt, it was gonna go. We came to conclusion, since it worked with other system in this cooler ( 2 condensers, 4 unit coolers, 2 intermatics, 2 rancos, 2 llsvs (1 respectively)) One side works great one cooler is frosting up and I believe evap sh is ok 8 when i started this system up few weeks ago. I got call today that one cooler iced up, it sure was. I believe this timing is my culprit. All heaters amping correct it cycels out of defrost same exact time as cooler a. Leading to my conclusion. Question is am I right, whats the fix lol. Thanks for any input

I have 6 freezer evaps of this style, and they are all having this same issue.

After defrost, ice collects from crossbars that go from the front to the back of the coils. Based on these pictures, do you think increasing the drip time and fan delay will resolve this?

Without using a water hose to occasionally assist the defrost, ice will fill the entire drain pan over the span of several months. Yes, the pan and coils get sufficiently heated during hot gas.

I'd felt like both were plenty of time already, but the drip timer is set to 5 minutes, and the fan delay is another 5 minutes.

Made a beer chiller out of an old condensing unit headed for scrap. R134a shooting for coil temp of -1°C. Got it to 150psi highside 24psi low side right where I want to be.

I have a submersible pump agitating the water always. Unit is wired into a contactor with a421 temp controller cycling off at 2°C and back on at 5°C. High side is 1/4 tubing and low side is 3/8.

I built a suction accumulator and wrapped my liquid line around 4times it to act as a SLHX. It’ll Boil off the liquid returning from evap and sub cool my liquid even further. liquid coming back to the accumulator you can see through a sight glass which is cool.

Ball valves to isolate and remove evap so I can use my cooler still.

Got my water down to freezing temps in 20mins

I'm working on a walk-in freezer running on R404A that's taking way too long to reach its target temperature of −18°C (0°F).

At first, I noticed an uneven frost pattern on the evaporator. Some circuits were frosting up while others weren't. I suspected oil might be trapped in the evaporator, so I added some refrigerant hoping to improve circulation, but it didn't help. The freezer actually started losing temperature.

When I inspected the evaporator more closely, I found traces of oil and discovered a refrigerant leak at the service valve. I replaced the Schrader valve core and added refrigerant and oil, but the system was still cooling very slowly.

Since the evaporator seemed to be underfed, I started opening up the TXV in ¼-turn increments, eventually reaching ¾ of a turn from its original setting. I noticed the suction pressure increased and the frost pattern across the evaporator became more even. The suction line running back to the compressor also started frosting up, so I had to readjust the valve to avoid possible liquid floodback.

I also checked the superheat with my temperature probe placed next to the TXV sensing bulb. With 35 psi measured at the evaporator outlet, I calculated around 6.7 K of superheat. However, using the 25 psi reading taken at the condensing unit, the calculated superheat was around 12.8 K.

Eventually, I replaced the Danfoss TXV and installed a No. 06 orifice, which was sized and recommended by a Danfoss distributor based on the system specifications.

My latest readings are 26 psi on the low side and 197 psi on the high side, with an evaporating temperature of −21.8°C (−7.2°F). The freezer was at −6.4°C (20.5°F) when I took those readings.

Despite everything I've done, the freezer is still taking too long to pull down to temperature.

What else would you guys recommend checking to figure out what's causing this?

Low charge scotsman hid312 lol barely makes any actual ice but customer hasn’t removed it after over a year of it not preforming 💀

I may be choosing between two offers and would appreciate your input!

Option 1: First-year 313A apprentice with UA787. (Competitive and coveted position)
Option 2: Heating Serviceperson with a local school board ($38/hr, excellent job security and consistent hours).

Both offer pensions and benefits. The school board pays more initially and I’d be apprenticed to a G1 (no 313a potential) but the 787 route likely has greater long-term earning potential and trade advancement.

I’m 30, got my G2 last year, and made UA787’s Ready-to-Hire List while working in residential/light commercial HVAC.

Which would you choose and why?

I’m ten seconds away from accepting a position in a company that primarily does industrial and process refrigeration. I’ve never worked on this stuff and am coming off almost 9 years of exclusively hvac service. I have some background in restaurant refer.

I have to decide between a position with Daikin Applied, which would give me more access to more advanced hvac equipment or a lateral shift into ammonia etc. I’m leaning towards the refer job because of pay scale and i think the work may be interesting or a good thing to have under my belt.

I have strong diagnostic skills, which is what they need. I can’t really make a wrong decision, but wondering if this is the right one. Any thoughts from you guys?

Hey, guys! I have put in about 21 years so far, and I am now just venturing into more and more licenses. I have 6 so far. How difficult was the Mass RT? Any tips or ideas to focus on? There's a Ton of material to cover. Thanks in advance!

I really hope that someone has an answer for this, do we need to carry out pressure vessel inspections on air cooled industrial chillers (200 kW to 800 kW) on their evaporators, liquid, and oil seperators? Mainly for refrigerants R134a and R32 it really doesnt make sense to me to inspect those vessels, the work that we need to do to degass the units or open vapor sealed insulations to inspect them really doesnt make sense to me, and the AS standards are not very clear on this, whats everyones experience regarding these topics in Australia

I am working on a Manitowoc UYF 0240 which I suspect is losing its nickel finish. It makes ice per the Manitowoc published specifications and slab weight is also within specs. At 1:22 into harvest the right side of ice slab releases while it sticks or hangs on the far left side and sometimes the slab will drop at 2:30 or machine stops on bin full and slab slides off.

Dose it look like the Evap losing the plating or am I missing something?

Anybody know the tech level password off the top of your head?

Curious to see the setups/ how well they work.
Was thinking of plugging it into an m18 top-off for even more accessibility.

You guys were helpful last time. I appreciate that a lot. Next problem 😂

I am leak testing some units & have come across these readings. Are they indicators of a possible leak ? Area is near the front of the Compressor, opposite end of the crankcase & away from the pistons. I forgot the name of that area, if you can help me identify the name of that component it would be helpful as well. Thank you guys for your help as always !

How many hours are you guys doing right now? Past month I’m getting 15-22 hours. Small shop in Ohio, about 10 technicians & we’re all in the same boat.

Is this normal, or is this an issue with my contractor? I didn’t even make enough money over the summer to justify this. I barely even went over 40 hours in the summer, if at all. 1st year here

Hey have an under counter cooler that randomly fails.

I will be there and the pressures are good, and it hits the temp.

4 hours after I left the unit hit 72°. I am never there at this time

Any idea what it could be. Recently replaced the condenser motor and fan blade because the bearing ain't and that fan blade was bent.

I’ve bought a ton of tools over the past 6 years. I’m still looking for any and all usable tools that maybe your day to day or a random helper that gets you out of a snag in a pinch. Any and all suggestions for any new tools is appreciated. I do refrigeration, light industrial/ heavy commercial.

Im installing a walk in cooler freezer combo box
The freezer has a floor but the cooler floor is set on uneven tile, cooler shares a wall with the freezer

I have about a 5/8” gap from the bottom of my walk in cooler wall to the floor, can I shim the screed this high?

I was thinking about putting some pressure treated
1x4s under and securing it to the floor then laying my screed ontop. Not sure if this will work.

I was then going to lay some diamond plating over the wood inside the box to cover the gap with butyl behind.

My boss sent our junior most tech (<1 year) out to a DAIKIN shipping container. It’s about 2 hours away and I’m heading out for a second look. I’ve repaired CARRIER and KLINGE but not touched a DAIKIN. According to my tech, the service ports are automotive. Clip on style. I have the carrier adapters for my gauges but not automotive. Are the Daikins really automotive hookups? Thanks. Heading to RSD now.

Preface: mods I do apologize if this violates post rules, however hvac deleted my post and no luck in others suited to home items. Fit and function all the same as if I was working on a prep table so please permit some slack.

I'm a resi/light commercial guy and do some reefer work from time to time, though typically on equipment with parts I can source.

I have a personal GE from '91 that has served me quite well over the last 15 years since acquiring it at GoodWill for $25. The start relay has finally failed. I want to replace this with either the best modern upgrade or a same spec replacement.

I've replaced start relays before, but they were all easily cross-referenced at UR. I can't even particularly find a datasheet on this exact one to then match to a newer version.

I'm slightly adverse to using a 3in1 from supco as it has a start capacitor in it and if they are anything like supco hard-starts, I do not want a start cap stuck in circuit because their product failed.

I found supco PRO81 option, which visualy seems right to me, but it seems no supply houses stock it and has been superceded to the 3in1.

Current information known:

R12 1/12hp 10.9A LRA 110V

(when I look up the model it says 1/10hp, but the fridge dataplate says 1/12hp. No evidence of compressor replacement.)

What component(s) would you use to keep the compressor running as long as she can?

I've been working as an hvac technician for a few years now and I still catch myself doing superheat math on the back of my hand or in the notes app. I know most gauges and digital manifolds do it for you but not everyone has the fancy ones, especially apprentices and guys just starting out as an hvac installer.

curious what the refrigeration technician and air conditioning technician crowd here actually rely on. Do you trust a phone calculator or do you only believe what the manifold tells you? And if you do use something on your phone, what makes it worth keeping around?

Tengo un problema, compré un Testo 552i hace 3 meses y recién en estos días lo empecé a usar.

Primero lo probé al hacer vacío directo y a una instalación de split y funcionó perfecto, sin embargo lo conecte al manifold de manera incorrecta (izquierda: UE, Medio: vacío, derecha: manifold) y tuve que cortar vacío.

Luego las mediciones (al ponerlo de manera correcta) solo llegaban a 2000 micrones y no lograban bajar (el mismo equipo donde en 25 min llegué a 500 micrones).

Por último hoy, ya no registra nada. Solo muestra eso.

Ya limpie la camara con alcohol isopropílico (sacándome el oring y el depresor con cuidado) pero sigue igual.

¿Que puede ser? ¿Puede ser el aceite de la bomba de vacío? Noto que tira mucho vapor y está amarillo.

Estoy bastante perdido en este tema, agradecería cualquier consejo.

Edit: Es la bomba de vacio, esta abierto por algun lado. El vacuometro funciona perfecto, se hizo la prueba con otro equipo y no hubo ningun problema.