My 2017 LT crapped out on me today. In less than one mile of driving, steering went from normal to "hmm, I don't remember that buzz" to "weird, the steering feels a little grabby" and finally to CRUNCHING GRINDING sounds from the steering rack area. The wheel felt very grabby, and then physically jammed during a turn.

Backing off a few degrees let me resume turning that direction, but now if I turn back and forth a few times, it will jam up within a few attempts.

Searching my symptoms, I'm getting mostly irrelevant "probably strut tower bearings" and "bad tie rods, bro" info. Didn't find any videos about Gen2 steering rack replacement.

Looks like it's a SEVEN HOUR job to replace the steering rack. Has anyone else done it themselves? Any tips/tricks/gotchas?

(I'm aware that it will need dealer-level programming of the new rack, has many torque-to-yield fasteners that must be replaced, and will need an alignment. Was able to determine that the recommended $100+ cradle alignment pin "tools" are 20mm diameter and 250mm long not including the knurled handles.)

So I brought my 2019 Volt into the dealership because I was getting a check engine light & a charging warning preventing me from charging. I checked the hybrid cooling reservoir & it was low though I had all three cooling systems serviced only 5 months ago. The service writer told me the EV mechanic found no leaks & said the reservoir sensor was bad, with the theory that there might have been evaporation. This seems doubtful to me. So close to $300 for the analysis, but supposedly didn’t do a leak down test. Thoughts?

Also was quoted a bill of over a grand to replace the sensor that is integrated w the reservoir. Seems really steep! Any work arounds for this?

Hey everyone. 2012 owner here. I’m curious what everyone is running their tire pressure at for best efficiency.. anyone care to share what they think the best practice is?

2017 Volt. 65,191 mi.
BECM replaced once in 2021, likely with same part that still had failure issues.
Died on highway again in Oct '26 and Mar '26, exact same symptoms each time - loss of propulsion, 0 mi range despite full charge, shift to park. Mar '26 dealership charged the 12V that had died b/c I couldn't shut the car off, couldn't reproduce BECM codes, cleared codes got it going and refused to even document that the car had died on the highway w/ all symptoms of BECM failure.

Now, Oct '26, another dealership has had the car for 3 wks for the same issue happening again. They are also unable to pull BECM codes so want to replace the whole hybrid battery pack, despite my having no loss of range. Corporate and executive customer care just go along with dealership. I have yet to be given access to speak with an actual person with technical knowledge who has worked on the car or receive an adequate explanation for why they ruled out BECM. P0AFA, P1E00 codes pulled. Battery tested at 381 V.

Of the 6 years I have owned it has spend 105 days in the shop over the course of 7 visits at 3 different dealerships, mostly for warrantied repairs, that I had to fight for appropriate coverage of every time. I love the car when it is working, but the failure rate and the part time job of making Chevy honor their warranties is not working.

Anyone want to buy this car to work on (in WA) or have any good ideas for how to get the dealership to diagnose BECM without the specific BECM codes?

I'm on Oahu, and I can't seem to get my Volt serviced. The car is bricked and won't move due to high voltage electrical system issue. It's a '17 Premier, so my guess is BECM, but my OBDII reader could only read engine codes, not high voltage system codes, so I'm not certain.

I called all 3 Oahu dealers (Servco, Cutter, and JN) for a service appointment. The soonest that could accept me was Cutter, it was a month out. Waited a month and got the car towed in. It's been with them a week and they haven't even run a diagnostic to determine what's wrong, it's just sitting on the lot. I guess I could try to tow it again to a different dealer, and wait another 5-6 weeks for another appointment, but that seems silly. Cutter service rep just says they are very backed up on work for EV techs.

Any advice on what recourse I have? Is this something I should contact Chevy about? If so, what department? I would prefer to just have my working car because it only have 55k miles.

They are operational, but it sure sounds like most of the sound is coming from the dashboard speakers while the door speakers operate at half of the volume. Certainly not loud enough for me to hear sound coming from that area.

Assuming they were not changed (classic issue - some people replace the 2 ohms speakers with 4 ohms speakers), is this how all Volts with the Bose system sound or is there a potential issue with the door speakers (or its power distribution) in my vehicle?

I've already successfully replaced the rear brakes with the whole retracting sequence and what not. Anything special to know for the front brakes or is it just like on any other car?

I was going grocery shopping, and when I got back in my car, I got the Service message "Stabilitrak" and "Battery Charging Service", and whenever I try to push on the break, it pushes back against me and starts loudly clicking. Does anyone know what's happening?

First I wanted to say thank you so much to the folks who suggested I pursue a buyback on my Volt with the battery issues I've been having. It was hands down the best possible result and I think I might have the record now for highest amount received, as well as the largest disparity from first to final offer.

So I asked a few months ago what to do given my 2018 Volt had been in the shop since Mid July due to battery faults. Back in 2021 Chevy replaced one of the battery modules under warranty at 54450 miles. In July another module failed and they replaced that in August. Then a week later there was too much difference between the brand new module and the last original module and its been stuck at the dealer since. I had been in a hertz rental for the majority of that time following a brief stint in a dealer loaner.

My inital buyback offer came in the beginning of Sept at $1344.79 no where near something I was interested in, but they were using the current mileage of 138k as the basis for that offer. I gently pushed back (thanks Gemini for helping research and draft) saying California buyback statue said it was based on the first attempted repair not the current mileage. The next offer was close to 27k. I nearly cried.

I quickly accepted and they pushed me over to their repurchase coordinator. The repurchase coordinator initially dropped the offer down to 23k saying I needed to provide a statement from the original lienholder showing how much interest I paid which got me to the final numbers. $26,043.63. On a 2018 with 138k miles. Surrendered and check received October 16th (they apparently cut the check October 8th).

Some things that went well for me. I purchased new in California, and am currently in Colorado (a carb state). When I first had a problem, I got it fixed under warranty and kept that repair order. I had the evidence from y'all showing I should push for something. I honestly was expecting 10-12k, but sure enough.

One thing that nearly tripped me up, even though it was going to scrap (including that refurb battery module from August), they required I have the level 1 charge cord, which luckily I knew the location of, but had to bring it to the dealer the day of surrender. This was not in any of the docs I had been given before and I hadn't thought about it.

If you have any questions about the process I'm happy to answer within reason. Also during the wait I purchased a CPO Ioniq 5 and had it shipped to me from California.

Powered on. Normally it auto connects. The connection to the phone works, I can hear the connection (just charging)

What I've done so far:

Better /new cable.
Un-paired and re-paired it.
Cleared storage and cache on the phone for the AA app.
Set the USB to "File Transfer".
Restored the entertainment system to factory settings.
Smashed my face on the steering wheel.

Ideas? Thanks. Still want to put this car across the railroad tracks for the EGR problem.

Now its getting cold, the 12V can really struggle. My battery went completely dead somehow and couldn't open the trunk. Watch put for signs Intialising..., stabbility track, etc.

Also, it is better to keep booster cables elsewhere due to this. A booster to jump you battery is a really good idea too.

Best of luck ☘️

this was also a company by a slight shutter and a large amount of vibration as it started

**Last update - car is fixed**

So previous update was the solution. car is driving, no errors, and no draw. paid ~$2800 for car from auction, paid $2900 in repairs. not super happy about it but whats done is done.

**Update edit**

So the service rep told me the wrong part was initially replaced - it was the HBCM, not the BCM

BUT plot thickens: now they claim that this was damaged by upstream part HV charge control module
and they want $2900+labor for repair
AND the part is backordered for indeterminant ammount of time

I was annoyed: MOSTLY because their initial call stated "We found the cause, its X, cost is Y"
approved based on that - now they state WE LIED ITS Z AND ITS GUNNA COST 3X MORE + YOU STILL NEED TO PAY FOR PREVIOUS REPAIR BECAUSE WE DID IT EVEN THOUGH IT WASNT THE CAUSE.

needless to say I went and had a 'calm' conversation with them
Current status:
I found the part, locally, for WAY less then they were charging (new in box), and picked it up, and dropped said part off to dealer (they approved this)
they are waving labor on previous repair, as management agreed that if they claimed they found root cause, but then said that was not correct, then i was mislead. (if they found previous module was damaged, they should have verified that up-stream wasnt root cause, else i'd drive off and new part would fry before i left the lot)
They are only charging labor on new part install since i brought/found the part

side note: a GM field tech was onsite while iw as there and had a chance to look at vehicle, he verified the issue, and said root cause was either: lighting struck the car OR car was plugged in charging and something electrical surged at that location and fed into car.

regardless, i hope this will end the saga of the auction volt, and i can move on with my life. Should know more later today or tomorrow morning.

**end edit**

previous post was seeking help with some trouble codes/parasitic draw; so i opted to finally take it to dealer as they have better tools than I

Whelp; they called this morning
1: codes pointed to BCM2 module causing parasitic draw, i OK'd replacing the module

2: replaced module, programmed it, but now car wont start

3: put old module back, car starts, but then parasitic draw

They are now reaching out to GM directly for more insight. hopefully this wont turn into a massive EXPENSIVE issue

For reasons mysterious, sometime when put car in PARK and exit car with Audible playing, returning and starting car gets Audible notice “ go online.” But Audible IS online through Bluetooth, as far as I know. Only way to restart it is holding down phone disconnect on steering wheel long enough to get “ reset” screen. Even this confusing because instructions are either “dealer reset”or “restore factory setting. “ I do neither and info screen resets, Audible works. This “go online” non function happens only sometimes. Other times, as I put car in gear. Audible starts where it left off. Through all of this, “my Chevrolet” blue tooth app remains “ not connected.”

Does anyone understand what is happening? Why reconnection is haphazard? Why info disconnects with phone? What is solution apart from rebooting?

Does anyone know where I can find the part in these photos? I broke one and need a replacement. They hold my cargo net in place under the hatch in the far rear of my 2015.

Can anybody help me and just tell me if I can drive my car with these codes in definitely or is this one of those issues that's going to become a bigger problem down the road

Picked up a vanity today, tried my luck. Got it home no issues here is a reference pick. Also got a 24 inch diagonal cabinet with a 30 inch base sink cabinet after I dropped the vanity off )no pics)

i recently purchased a 2018 volt and this morning the bluetooth just suddenly stopped connecting. it shows in devices that i'm paired, my phone says i'm connected, but it says no media found and won't play through bluetooth. i've tried unpairing, disconnecting and reconnecting, etc. anyone have tips to fix this?

I think this fell out of my 2017 Volt interior? Car is running just fine like normal. I’m unsure. Can anyone identify what it is?

Thanks for any help !

Does anyone have an Idea how to replace this front fog light on my 2015 chevrolet volt?

Do I need to take off the whole bumper??

Also where should I get the parts at?

I’ve got a 2015 Volt, which I really like. I like the size & the pep. I’m going to have my daughter drive it and I’m going to get something new.

What’s a good next step after the Volt? Something similar in size, maybe full EV or hybrid plug-in. There are so many ugly sedans and SUV’s…

This community has been awesome to be a part of. I’m sure I’ve saved thousands on repairs by your DIY knowledge!

I think I may have found what the engine noise is, is that the serpentine belt? Seems like it may be damaged seeing how when it oscillates you can see different parts.

Someone correct me if I’m wrong though. Car is still able to drive mostly fine, but I’m sure driving it isn’t a good idea.

I have a 2013 Volt with a little over 100k miles on it. I got it from a salvage auction for very little and it's been working great for the last two years. It's ugly, I replaced the front bumper cover, the left rear quarter was damaged at some point, along with other minor damage, but it's been a great car nonetheless and owes me nothing. A full charge shows around 36 miles on average.

When I got the car, one of the trip meters hadn't been reset for about 60,000 miles and the mileage displayed on the trip meter was low, somewhere in the 20's. I assume that someone never plugged it in and ran it primarily as a gas car. My question is this, with more than half the miles on the car from gas, in general is that good or bad for the battery? Thanks!

Not trying to start a debate but stating the facts and my personal option and experience with this vehicle.
I owned mine first gen volt for 13 years and for first couple of years as it has low miles like 50k it served me well but as it got old, it started giving me issues.
I can name countless issues specially with the first gen.
Issues include suspension problems. Both axles gave up. Engine mounts damaged and not easy to replace.
Transmission issues even after changing oil.
Water leaking inside cabin passenger side footwell.
Propulsion reduced error—Dealer had to change part of the battery ($3200!repair bill)
Washer fluid sensor gave up.
Cluster died (common issue). Had to get a new cluster and program it. Posted a video on YouTube how I did it.
Rear camera screen resolution got worst to a point that it became pointless.
Got the famous light for “service high voltage charging system”. This is common and is caused by low coolant in reservoir or bad sensor (most common) or a major battery issue in some cases.
Also if coolant level is low that means it’s leaking inside the battery. There is a plug you can pull to check if it’s leaking inside..
Another error “Battery too cold to start” this can leave you stranded. This only came on for me in cold weather. In summer it was fine but in winter it came up every morning. No fix unless you take the battery down. This is caused by resistance and corrosion issues in HV battery.
Headlight becomes hazy (common for age).
Headlight bulb failure (had to replace bulbs every year).
The black roof become dull and even buffing won’t fix it. Must do clear coat.
Dash board and center console became sticky and melted.
I had made it to 160k miles but I tried to keep it clean and in good shape on things I had control and decided to list it for sale…for a long time with no takers even at 3k. I was getting ridiculous offers.
I got fed up and end up selling it eventually in As is condition with one offer.
This made me realize that I only had two happy days with this car. The day I bought it and the day I sold it.
Guys it’s old. Sell it now otherwise you will be junking it pretty soon.
Good luck!