Hello thanks for helping in advance, how come on one side of right front tire, I see those small slits, but on the left side of front tire, those small slits are non existent?

I'm aware I need camber adjustments and will get that done soon, but in the meanwhile can these tires last 3 more track days?

Thanks once again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PM9r0BL6Esw

Great way to end the year with a lap record and class win for Sport 3. Little different of a set up than my normal FK8. That being said the co-driven FL5 was a beast. Car took p1 and p3 for sport 3. Codriving was a bit of a challenge, we only had one group between our run groups (4 and 6) leaving us very little time to swap wheels and cool the car, that being said the FL5 performed great. Mostly identical set up to my car, Tuned, PRL inlet and same rear sway. The owner was able to pack both sets of track wheels and drive all the way from PA to Texas.

Eagles Canyon is a hell of a track, I wish i had some more time in the seat as there is a ton of time left on the table. Clockwise I was able to find pace a bit quicker, that being said I'm looking forward to another chance to go back

So here’s the deal - I have BMW F82CS, equipped with the BBK from M2 Competition (2NH option). This summer I installed Pagid Rsl29s with proper high temp brake fluid. First two track days I was very happy with the performance of the brakes (the track is very heavy on the brakes with a couple of long straights). First time I found the performance inadequate strangely was on a mountain run. It was a very long run through the Carpathians (Transalpina) - the pedal was very firm but I found the inital bite and general stopping power somewhat lacking. Then on my next few trackdays I found the brake performance fine on the first two fast laps but after 3-4 laps I found very inconsistent stopping power and very poor initial bite. At no point I had soft brake pedal - I step on the brake pedal with all my weight (so to speak) but the brakes take a second to start biting. After a cooldown lap generally the brakes are ok again. So my question is - could this be brake fade due to pads overheating or something else (knockback?, but as I said I ve never had soft pedal feel). The pad thickness currently is maybe 1-2mm more than the backing plate if it matters.

Hi there

I'm driving a light low power fwd car and mostly was using ferodo ds uno.

But this time I decided to try ds 3.12 and I was shocked how they eat the brake discs like a chocolate.

They have shaved off about 0.7mm of brake discs out of 2mm available with just 2mm of pads.

For comparison I could use 2 full sets (about 10mm each) of ds uno that have eaten just 1mm of the discs.

The brake discs for my car are very cheap and much cheaper than the pads but still I didn't expect that I have to change them so often now.

Does anyone have the same experience?

On my last session of the year, I set a new PB at Thunderbolt in my GR86. Beat my previous by 0.26 seconds. Performance wise, the car is stock other than camber plates, stock size Kumho V730s, and AP Racing front calipers with Ferodo pads all around.

For context: this is the event & group with Open Passing, but the org rules explicitly make the slower cars "help" faster cars with facilitating the pass.

This local Miata crew had a different idea as they were basically wheel-to-wheel, shutting down any reasonable passing attempt.

Really nice day at Jzilla Exofest at AMP 10/25/26. Had a couple of laps I feel great about. What do I work on next?

Stock suspension, 225/45/17 Hankook R-S4s with about 45 heat cycles on them. I was running 30-35 minute sessions all weekend and the car just kept getting faster.

I can definitely use more camber and will be setting up suspension this winter, but after a full first season of HPDEs, I'm really impressed with this platform.

…a new track that will serve as a sister track for or local high-performance car clubs or track day groups.

Hey everyone,

One of the most common questions I get when people see my 2023 718 Cayman GT4 setup is: *"Did going full monoball ruin the car on the street?"*

I still drive my GT4 ~70 miles each way across I-70 / US-36 out to High Plains Raceway here in Colorado, plus weekend canyon runs in the foothills. Over the past two seasons (61 sessions and 519 timed CAN telemetry laps), I dropped my lap times from a 2:16.78 baseline down to a 1:59.67 PB.

Here is an honest breakdown of what the full spherical bearing conversion actually changed on the road versus on track:

### 1. The Setup (Installed by Honest Assembly in Denver, CO)

* **Front:** Tarett Monoball Camber Plates + Tarett 991 GT3/RSR Control Arm Ends + LCA Shims + Tarett Caster-Adjustable Thrust Arm Bushings.

* **Rear:** Tarett Rear Toe Control Arms with Bump-Steer Kit & Locking Plates.

* **Sway Bars:** Tarett Adjustable Drop Links (Front & Rear, zeroed preload during corner balance).

* **Wheels & Tires:** 19x9.0" / 19x11.0" Apex VS-5RE forged wheels on 265/35R19 & 295/30R19 Vitour Tempesta P1s (30.5F / 31.0R PSI hot target).

### 2. Street & Highway Manners (NVH Reality Check)

* **Ride Harshness:** Surprisingly, replacing the rubber bushings with spherical bearings didn't make the vertical ride stiffer—because spherical bearings actually have *less* stiction/binding than twisted rubber bushings, the PASM dampers move more freely over small highway expansion joints.

* **Noise:** You do get a faint metallic "tick" or clunk over sharp low-speed driveway aprons or parking lot speed bumps, and slightly more road texture transmitted through the steering column on coarse concrete. At 75 mph on the highway, wind and tire roar from the 200TW tires completely drown out any suspension noise.

### 3. Why the Caster Bushings Are Mandatory for 265 Front Tires

* If you step up to a 19x9.0" wheel with a wide 265/35R19 front tire and just stack shims in the lower control arms for camber, it pushes the lower ball joint outward and swings the tire rearward into the front fender liner vents under steering lock.

* Dialing in camber from the top via camber plates and using the **Tarett caster-adjustable thrust arm bushings** to pull the front wheel center slightly forward (~9.0°+ caster) gave me 100% rub-free clearance even at 1.54G peak compression in the HPR Corkscrew.

### 4. Rear Toe Locking Plates Under Threshold Braking

* On the stock rear eccentric bolts, hard threshold braking from 135 mph over bumpy pavement caused noticeable dynamic rear toe-out (that nervous "wiggle" on heavy brake application). The Tarett rear toe links with bump-steer locking plates completely cured that—the rear now stays dead straight at -1.27G deceleration and rotates predictably on a 10–15% trail-brake release.

Happy to share alignment numbers, tire pressure notes, or CAN telemetry traces for anyone debating monoballs or 19" track wheels on their 718!

Had the first track day in a ‘21 VW GTI running PS4S tires. I knew there wouldn’t be enough front camber as I’m on stock suspension, but I’m trying to figure out how far the tires possibly rolled over.

The brown color was pretty consistent across the entire sidewall prior to tracking just from new tires and then being dirty and me not fully cleaning them. After tracking there’s this pretty distinct line. These are the front tires, the rears are fine.

I don’t think the tires would’ve rolled over THAT far, especially considering the tire nibs are still there and you can still see the visible wear on the Michelin man rollover indicators. Any thoughts on this? Maybe the line where the brown is was from rollover on an out lap or something? Or maybe it was just some weird reaction with the heat.

For what it’s worth, I was targeting hot pressures of 32-34. Cold pressures were probably down in the upper 20s, maybe 26-28 or so.

Chalked before a session at Sonoma and fronts looked like this after 6 laps. Based on the rollover here, could I run a bit lower?

Had a bad experience with a ton of rollover and cording my tires so am approaching more carefully now but I feel like I’m running higher than I should be.

I only got two sessions because someone money shifted and got oil all over the track. New Pirelli slicks and I was babying them in Keyhole and Carousel, probably left close to a full second out there. I was also early braking into Turn 6 like a complete pansy. Had a blast though and I am getting confident with this car, it’s such a blast to drive. I cannot wait to be wheel to wheel in this thing next season.

Conditions at Mid-Ohio tomorrow afternoon look very favorable to lay down something fast, so I think now is a great time to throw on some fresh slicks. I have a major problem!

I made the mistake of not switching to my track pads before this weekend. Thankfully I was able to snag replacement rotors during the lunch break.

I'd like to do more with my daily sedan, get it out on track just to ensure it and I are a capable team. But it's a heavy luxury barge, I'm curious if there's anything I should consider that's different from more common lighter cars. More than just that everything is bigger and more expensive.

Edit: So what I'm hearing is put on a big brake kit.

Happen to smear my pads pretty badly on the front for a 2nd gen BRZ. I’m running XP10 front and XP8 rear.

Thinking for next season I’ll move up to XP12 and XP10, along with titanium shims for heat up front. Possibly even do the ansix cooler for brakes, but currently running the GT3 brake scoops.

Hot laps, hot weather, hot doggity dog

Hear me out..

Changed my oil yday in prep for a track day tomorrow. Also hit some exhaust manifold nuts/bolts with penetrating oil in preparation for an upcoming header install.

Took my car (nc miata) out for a short drive today, noticed some white smoke coming from the engine bay, immediately pulled over. All gauges normal, oil and coolant levels fine, no new codes thrown. Car drove fine.

Got home and jacked up the front, couldn’t identify any leaks, cleaned up some residual penetrating fluid. Still some tiny wisps of smoke coming from header/midpipe connection

Is it foolish to attribute the smoke to residual penetrating oil burning off and send it tomorrow? What would you do?

I’d like to save others time, money and frustration.

After lots of people in various subs saying good things about OpenTrack I went with them.

The main reason was they didn’t exploit you for car modifications.

What. A. Mistake.

The company seems staffed by ZERO humans. I called many, many times with a question after locking in my policy.

No one EVER answers the phone. Zero replies to my emails. They took my money and ghosted me.

Not like it was just a bad week for them (maybe on a team building retreat?). Nope. Over weeks and weeks. Zero response.

In the future I will use someone else because it’s a bad feeling when someone takes your money and goes dark.

Drive safe my friends.

Greetings! My name is Justin, and I have a wonderful project to share with you all.

What started out as a way to see how my story fits into the world of Time Attack grew into a project of where I have built an online space for fans of this sport to gather and share their passion. This is Yatabe Works, The Creative Motorsports Studio.

This has been demo'd privately, but now I'm sharing its existence with the public.

Nothing like what I've created exists to my knowledge, but my goal is for this to become the definitive site for fans of Time Attack to gather. Styled after one of my favorite video games, the site provides a dense experience meant to be sat with and explored. Aside from learning our story, I have attempted to capture the history of Time Attack on a global scale, as well as the history of companies that I will partner with. We have sponsored drivers such as Kunihiko Bando on his World Time Attack '26 Campaign, and partnered with Global Time Attack as our commitment supporting others remains among our top priorities.

Our demo car is an R33 Skyline, so you may notice more R33 content than usual. We also have a cute mascot named Scylla (pronounced 'Sai-Luh') who embodies the experiences of our story. You may notice that we have a shop that sells goods based on the Machines and Drivers you'll read about. All of the artwork is original and all proceeds help fund our racing efforts as well as taking care of our artists.

The Social features are lite, but functional. Users can make accounts, share and comment on photos. A discord server does exist, however it is still a work in progress. The desktop experience for Yatabe Works has been our main priority, with the mobile version receiving optimizations and design updates behind the scenes.

It should go without saying that this is a huge passion project, but this aims to be the ultimate resource for anyone who's curious about the sport. I am open to any feedback to make this experience better for everyone!

This site will see continuous updates as I progress down my path of racing, and I hope to this serves you well. See you on the track!

-Justin