Recently moved and got a new panel installed. Licenced and insured electrician, well reviewed and a someone who's known in the neighborhood.

He asked me if I wanted to get a permit, and said whatever I felt comfortable with he would do.

I was ill-advised and was told by my father it was pointless for a permit. I've come to find out I should have just gone with it.

My question is, would this be an issue if I ever plan to sell years down the road?

House built in 60s.

Montgomery county, OH

Edit: Thanks to everyone who commented!

Was cleaning the machine shop and found this under a cart. Not and electrical guy but something seems off...

I'm no electrician but I can change an outlet or a switch out. I feel like the answer to this is "yes, obviously, why are you even asking?" but it's better to ask stupid questions than have stupid outcomes I think in case I'm overlooking something.

My garage has about a dozen light sockets on the ceiling. I want an extension cord reel up there and there's no plug. Is there any reason I can't just replace one of the light sockets with a cord reel?

Obviously it would be on the same circuit as the lights, but They're all LEDs that don't draw a lot of power, and having it controlled by the light switch is probably a good thing since I like to unplug everything when not in use just to be safe.

Anything I should be aware of before trying this?

I was tasked with repairing my household's washing machine and I kept getting the same error despite replacing a sensor and splicing in a new plug(? I don't even know the right terms...). is there any hope of cleaning this off enough for a splice?

Going from 100 amp to 200 amp. The written details covers a new meter base, a new 40 space panel, the permit, and the inspection. It doesn't say anything about the utility side.

Does that sound in range, or should I get another recommendation?

I(27) have been working for a electrical contractor for 2 years doing only commercial work and 2 years of doing residential for another electrical contractor, both of these companies laid me off because of “lack of work” 1 week after I asked them if the can sponsor me through the SDOL to get my journeyman card. At this point I just feel like I will never be able to get my journeyman card and eventually my license and yes I have tried joining the union for more than 4 years through the lottery. Anyways if anyone is locked for an electrician or helper or knows someone please hit me up because I’m about to give up

After living here for 10 years, I finally got the old FPE main panel replaced. Electrician was licensed and had grey hair, the city signed off on it, how big of a deal is the overhang?

I’m close to graduation HS and want to do an electrical apprenticeship but I’m unsure where to look and what to do

Hi guys, my bathroom is right upstairs to the smoke alarm and my washing machine leaked and water went into the drain and is coming out of the smoke alarm. This has happened once before. Last time i had to get an electrician to fix it and it cost around 302aud. I just wanted to ask if this is hardwired or battery powered and is it safe to let it air dry or is it an urgent issue. Would i be able to fix it myself or should i call an electrician?

Can I buy adapters similar to that pictured in the UK? I could only find US ones. Any advice would be appreciated.

Lets say the requirements are a split lighting and power chassis with their meters. Total is 60 way. Can you get away with a 600mm wide board if the poles are 60 ? Or does it need to be 1200mm wide board ?

Can NHP, Hager and Schnider can do it ?

My aunt's stucco house has exterior light wires coming through holes drilled in the wall. No boxes (second pic).

So I broke out the stucco, installed a pancake box (first pic). Since there was less than an inch of hot wire left, I also spliced in new Romex.

Because her stucco was 3/4 inch, I used the only 3/4 inch box I could find: the orbit 3.5 inch, 3/4 deep. I removed the clamps& put in an Arlington button.

Which means I used a 5 cu box for wires that need at least 6. I feel like the biggest idiot.

Do I need to redo this? If I get a light with a large empty space for the connections, is it ok?

This is only the first of 6. For the next 5, I assume I should upgrade to a 4 inch pancake box? Since I can't find a 4 in diameter, 3/4 deep box, what's the best way to prop the 1/2 inch box? Just some washers?

I'm kicking myself.

My apartment has an indoor electric panel that looks like it’s literally 50 years old. The owner just has the outdoor unit replaced but the panel in the closet is still original I think. The research I’ve done online has me worried that it’s a fire hazard. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Edit - to say I’ve been here for 7 years

Hello all,

I am new to the sub, I have a GFCI outlet on the exterior of my house that keeps tripping, I reset the GFCI then it will work for the night then keeps tripping after working the whole night. Downstream of the GFCI is a regular outlet, that I have disconnected. The only thing plugged into the GFCI outlet is outdoor Govee lights. Any ideas what could be causing this to constantly trip?

I appreciate your help!

Two extra things on my meter base, first is between the meter and the can... I think this may be a suppressor but the ones I have seen before are thicker? second is mounted under the can... I have never seen this before. What are these extra things?

Our insurance sent a letter this month: replace the fuse box or the policy doesn't renew. 60 amp, original as far as we know, 1912 house in tower grove south. So much for the someday list.

Two electricians have quoted it so far and they came in $1800 apart. Worse, they gave opposite answers on whether the drop from the pole has to move too, which sounds like the difference between a one-day job and the city getting involved. Same house, same box, two completely different jobs apparently.

If you've had them do a panel upgrade, what did it run you, and did the price hold once they opened the wall?

The fabricators didn’t leave me with a rectangular opening, so a simple box extender won’t work. How would you deal with the front of the current box sitting 2” behind the surface of this backsplash?

I am running 4 new LED high hats from my center ceiling fixture (daisy chain) so had to replace my old 14.5 cu in octagon fan box with a 21.5 cu in box due to the additional cable (one in, one out, switch loop run and now the high hat feed). no problem in general and I found it easiest on the new box to have one cable per knockout to get the new box in and not destroy the wiring or ceiling. I used two nm connectors on the sides and two plastic connectors on the top. the old wiring (1980) is kind of snug, so due to the slight difference in cable path from old box to new, the two cables coming in the top through the plastic connectors have the sheath stop just short of the connector (buts right up to it). I know I need 1/4" of sheath through the connector but it's just not there. Would you cut a new hole in the sheet rock and try to unstaple the cable to possibly find a little more slack? I'm not sure I can get any additional but could try. I also dont't want to make a full mess and keep cutting more access ports into the ceiling if I don't have to of course. Other than that small aspect, the wiring is quite nice in my new ceiling box; the added size is perfect and everything is tidy. What would you suggest?

Hey ya'll, I don't know crap about this stuff. We're doing a panel upgrade from 100AMP to 200AMP for our 1921 home. I already knew that all the electrical upgrades were probably done by someone's proverbial "uncle" since there were no city permits or inspections on record for the entire history of the house. Today, the electricians discovered this when they began work. I'm not questioning the electrician's judgment. I'm just genuinely curious -- how dangerous is all this?

Need to replace these lightbulbs because they are all shot. Have no idea where to start