I have a garage door opener plugged into an outlet on the ceiling of the garage. However, the outlet is one of four outlets on the circuit, and they’re all controlled by a switch at the start of the circuit run. Garage ceiling lights are plugged into the other outlets…

So the garage opener only works when the switch is on, but that means all the garage lights have to be on for the garage opener to work. You can see how this creates issues since if I come home late at night, all garage lights need to be on all night. I would love for the garage opener and lightbulb on it to be able to operate without switch control and without other lights being on.

Thanks.

So i recently moved in and looked under my electric stove top. What's with this cord? I haven't turned it on yet and i don't want to blow up.

So we just had a man in to fix the thermostat/diagnose heating system issues. He spent a long time on the phone getting a tutorial on how to replace a thermostat, then left us with the accompanying image and said 'We cant do anything else'. £269/hr by the way.

My instinctive response is that this is utterly unacceptable but I am British and he was twice my size so I couldn't confront the man on the spot and meekly let him leave with his money.

I installed a non-neutral dimmer switch in a switch loop circuit the only way I could get it to function as before. There is a light switch at the top of the stairs that also control these lights. Can anyone explain if this is correct or not? I don’t understand how it’s functioning properly. The white wire is HOT, the red wire is HOT regardless of the switch up the stairs is on or off, and the black wire was NOT HOT. As of right now the black is wired to common, the white and red wires are landed to brass screws labeled YL. The instructions for the dimmer do not have any situation of wiring similar to this. If I wire it according to the manual if the upstairs switch is off the downstairs dimmer doesn’t work, if the switch is on and dimmer will function. Ground is wire nutted in the box. This is an Eaton LD06P slide dimmer. Thanks!

I’m having a very strange electrical issue in my house and would appreciate any advice from people who have experienced something similar.

Here is what happens:

I have an LG OLED TV and a PS5.

When I try to connect certain 5-meter HDMI 1.4 cables to either the TV or the PS5, the main breaker trips. It can happen as soon as I insert just one end of the HDMI cable into either device, even if the devices are switched off but still plugged into the mains.

I tried two different 5-meter HDMI cables, and both caused the same issue.

A 3-meter HDMI cable works without any problems.
Something similar happened when I connected an 20 meter Ethernet cable to a powered TP-Link switch that was already connected to my MikroTik router. The main breaker tripped. Again, a 3 meter ethernet cable works without any problems.

The breaker has to be reset manually, and the entire house loses power when it trips.

The electrical installation has had the required inspections. I contacted my electricity distributor, but they told me to call an electrician. I’ve also contacted several private electricians, but none of them could suggest what might be causing this.

I haven’t deliberately reproduced the fault since, and I don’t want to keep testing it because I’m concerned there could be a potentially dangerous electrical issue.

What could cause a breaker to trip simply when connecting HDMI or Ethernet cables?

Could this be related to a grounding/earthing problem, a voltage difference between devices, a faulty power supply, or something else?

Has anyone experienced something similar and found the actual cause and solution?

Any suggestions on what a qualified electrician should measure or investigate would be greatly appreciated.

I recently replaced the ceiling fan in my living room. It was an old fan controlled by two switches, one for the fan and one for the light. The new fan only needs one switch and comes with a remote. I flipped the unused switch to off and removed it capping the wires as instructed. However, I recently discovered a rarely used outlet doesn't have power going to it because it was actually powered by the switch. What are the steps for getting power to that outlet, and do I have to install the switch back?

Had to remove drywall in our basement and this was what was behind it. We have kids that are old enough to know not to touch these wires but you g enough that it still worries me. Of course top priority is to make sure it is safe. Wondering what you experts would recommend in terms of getting this to a better place? Thank you very much for any advice!

Moving subpanel out of a closet and onto an adjacent wall as part of a (1960s condo) new owner's inspection report. New panel triggers modern code compliance here.

DW/Disp are on a 3-wire cable, and both are hardwired installations. They should have combo AF/GF breakers, but also should have the handles tied. However, there is no 2-pole combo breaker made.

I emailed the senior inspector at the AHJ, but they haven't answered. As far as life safety, should I prioritize the GFCI protection and install a 2-pole GF breaker, skipping the AF function? What would the inspector most likely want to see here? Don't want to fail inspection, and can't return a $150 breaker.

To be clear, the realtor says there is no budget to run new cables.

I apologize for the poor photo. Is there a way to retroactively add a more weatherproof bubble cover to this exterior outlet without replacing the entire outlet? Everything I look at looks like an entire swap.

I’d like to plug something in for permanent use, but know this style isn’t great for long term.

My other options are swap the outlet or run electric into the garage.

I was tasked with repairing my household's washing machine and I kept getting the same error despite replacing a sensor and splicing in a new plug(? I don't even know the right terms...). is there any hope of cleaning this off enough for a splice?

I’m close to graduation HS and want to do an electrical apprenticeship but I’m unsure where to look and what to do

Hi guys, my bathroom is right upstairs to the smoke alarm and my washing machine leaked and water went into the drain and is coming out of the smoke alarm. This has happened once before. Last time i had to get an electrician to fix it and it cost around 302aud. I just wanted to ask if this is hardwired or battery powered and is it safe to let it air dry or is it an urgent issue. Would i be able to fix it myself or should i call an electrician?

I'm no electrician but I can change an outlet or a switch out. I feel like the answer to this is "yes, obviously, why are you even asking?" but it's better to ask stupid questions than have stupid outcomes I think in case I'm overlooking something.

My garage has about a dozen light sockets on the ceiling. I want an extension cord reel up there and there's no plug. Is there any reason I can't just replace one of the light sockets with a cord reel?

Obviously it would be on the same circuit as the lights, but They're all LEDs that don't draw a lot of power, and having it controlled by the light switch is probably a good thing since I like to unplug everything when not in use just to be safe.

Anything I should be aware of before trying this?

Can I buy adapters similar to that pictured in the UK? I could only find US ones. Any advice would be appreciated.

Our insurance sent a letter this month: replace the fuse box or the policy doesn't renew. 60 amp, original as far as we know, 1912 house in tower grove south. So much for the someday list.

Two electricians have quoted it so far and they came in $1800 apart. Worse, they gave opposite answers on whether the drop from the pole has to move too, which sounds like the difference between a one-day job and the city getting involved. Same house, same box, two completely different jobs apparently.

If you've had them do a panel upgrade, what did it run you, and did the price hold once they opened the wall?

Lets say the requirements are a split lighting and power chassis with their meters. Total is 60 way. Can you get away with a 600mm wide board if the poles are 60 ? Or does it need to be 1200mm wide board ?

Can NHP, Hager and Schnider can do it ?

Going from 100 amp to 200 amp. The written details covers a new meter base, a new 40 space panel, the permit, and the inspection. It doesn't say anything about the utility side.

Does that sound in range, or should I get another recommendation?

I tried searching and couldn't find this specific case. I'm wondering why the electrician who wired up my load center decided to skip a spot at the bottom right. My energy monitor is lopsided right now, but nobody used the washer/dryer/range/furnace, or really much of the kitchen today, which would balance things out. The bottom right breaker is for lights in the garage (and porch light and garage door opener), so in a normal family home, I wouldn't imagine it would make or break the balance.

I'm not going to move the breaker or stress out about it. I've just been curious. I'm happy to provide more info if needed. Thanks!

My aunt's stucco house has exterior light wires coming through holes drilled in the wall. No boxes (second pic).

So I broke out the stucco, installed a pancake box (first pic). Since there was less than an inch of hot wire left, I also spliced in new Romex.

Because her stucco was 3/4 inch, I used the only 3/4 inch box I could find: the orbit 3.5 inch, 3/4 deep. I removed the clamps& put in an Arlington button.

Which means I used a 5 cu box for wires that need at least 6. I feel like the biggest idiot.

Do I need to redo this? If I get a light with a large empty space for the connections, is it ok?

This is only the first of 6. For the next 5, I assume I should upgrade to a 4 inch pancake box? Since I can't find a 4 in diameter, 3/4 deep box, what's the best way to prop the 1/2 inch box? Just some washers?

I'm kicking myself.