Hi everyone. I was hoping someone could give me some advice on the Toyota 4Runner gas power vs. Hybrid. I'm leaning towards this vehicle entering the new year but want to make sure I'm making a smart decision.

I live in a small town, and my daily commute is about 20–30 minutes each way to work just outside the city, including some highway driving. The primary purpose of this vehicle would be to handle snowy road conditions, which typically last about 3–4 months out of the year. I’d also like to use it for occasional off-roading on sand and dirt (I go to the woods often to camp, fish, and hunt), as well as long-distance trips to the beach.

Do you guys think my 4runner is toast?

Hit a deer and swerved slightly off-road where i hit an old telephone pole stump followed by a metal mail box. No airbags went off radiator and engine is fine. The wheel split in half (I have never seen that before). Not a good start to the week😕

My 2016 4Runner SR5 needs a motor. Trying to decide if I should replace it with the same 1GR-FE or if there is something better that y’all would recommend I look into.

2022 4Runner Sr5. We purchased new in SFL.
I’ve noticed this over the last few months. The ppf on the hood is the only one doing this. Anybody have any recommendations?

What’s the advantage of a limited vs other 4Runners?

Anyone using a front hitch mounted bike rack on their 5th gen? Sag/nosedive noticed?

Hi!, I need help I have a 1999 toyota 4runner that pass wont smog test California obd2 scan saying CAT not ready, (Smog specialist saying "runing too rich" NO check engine light after we replace o2 sensor (front) and obd2 scan saying CAT not ready, we already replace front oxygen "OEM", MAF sensor "OEM", pcf valve replace, fuel pressur regulator replace, oem injector, no vaccum leak, 02 sensor in the back OEM (not making them anymore) but before I replace the whole CAT, my timing belt was replace on 158982 miles (my car has now 238529) could that be the problem? I've spent 1700 + labor on this car; what could be the culprit?

Took it to the dealer. Looks like a rodent chewed through #3 injector terminal. $789 to fix. I drove to the dealer on it. I don’t think that was a good idea.

Love taking this thing places, makes for a great picture!

I picked up a low-mileage '24 a few weeks ago, and could kick myself for not buying one sooner, especially when I consider the years of early morning, white-knuckle driving to trailheads in a crossover.

The photo was taken at Cabresto Lake, near Red River, NM.

2019 premium with 41k. Traded "down" from a 2024 Tahoe RST.

2016 trail edition with kdss. Looking to lift a bit.

Unit will be stock with no added weight other than some gear at times in the back. 90% in town 10% off road, bush roads. It has kdss. I'm also in Canada so availability of things or prices are different that USA.

Front: would like it to ride semi soft, firmer than stock but don't want it to feel very stiff.

Bilstein 5100+ome 2883 for a ~2 inch lift? Appears like 2884 gives a 3 inch lift? Would run me about $770+tax.

Bilstein 5100+ dobinson springs? About $900

Bilstein 6112 kit with springs $1120

Rear: 5100 shocks for sure then the springs.... was looking at the bilstein b12 springs. The 1" lift is hard to find, special order. The 1.5-2" I can get, I read most find it's closer to 2" with no weight.

Theoretically if I do 2 inch front and 2 rear then I guess I'm factory for "rake". 2.5 front would make it slightly more level.

Let me know your guys thoughts!. Looking to lift the rig a bit in a sorta budget friendly way. Starting to settle on some setups, 2-2.5" front and depending on rear springs, 1-2 inches.

What is the best way to repair these scratches? Is there a recommended product or should I try and replace the entire piece?

Hey all, today I tackled my bad front wheel bearing. Got a Koyo bearing along with new seals and got it done in about 4 hours.

Welp, went for a test drive and have a definitive whirring noise that seems to pick up around 35 and can be alleviated by unloading that side by turning the steering wheel to the right.

I followed a YouTube video pretty carefully and made sure to support the inner race while pressing in the new one. I triple checked my axle nut is torqued correctly. Pulled the wheel and didn’t see anything obvious that would be rubbing. Everything appeared to be where it should.

My best guess at this point is one of the seals is maybe rubbing on something but I’m a little terrified something went wrong when pressing in the bearing.

I know it’s a long shot but anyone have some ideas of what a good next step is? My only guess is maybe the CV axle?

It’s a 2012 with about 175,000 miles.