I was traveling on this old single lane highway and ended up using my lights to spot for wildlife standing on the sides of the road. Almost had a moose total my car last year, so after that I realized I needed better visibility in the woods. I turned the lights on and off a couple times in this video to try and show the difference. (Mods, my passenger took this video. I wasn’t filming and driving.)

Been having rubbing issues with new upper control arms, and Google AI is 100% positive these struts were installed on the wrong sides by the previous owner. You can even see a small green paint mark on the very top hat in the first photo. Google AI thinks this needs to be facing inward, not out. It also looks like the rubber seal isn’t seated correctly in the second pic. 2003 SR5 4.0 4x4 with rough country N3 3inch lift. Thanks!

I think it's coming from below the shifter and cup holder area.

I have a 2007 Toyota 4Runner, and I'm having a strange issue with the rear hatch not opening. Hoping someone here has experienced something similar before I start replacing parts.

Here's what's happening:

• The rear hatch won't open when the engine is off. Pressing the release button does absolutely nothing — no clicking or motor noise.
• If I start the engine, lower the rear window, and then raise it completely, the hatch will open.
• Once I get the hatch working, I can open and close it repeatedly without having to cycle the window again, as long as the engine is running.
• If I turn the engine off, the hatch stops opening.
• With the engine off but the ignition ON, all the power windows work normally, including the rear window, but the hatch still won't open.
• I tried removing and reinstalling the circuit breaker, but that didn't resolve anything.
• I also replaced the vehicle's battery about three months ago.

Has anyone experienced this?

Appreciate any insight!

I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner SR5. While trying to remove the rear wiper arm, I pulled on it and noticed a gap between the rear glass and the body.
The window still closes normally and appears properly aligned, but I’m worried I may have damaged a seal, trim, or mounting point.
Is this usually an easy fix, or could it be serious? Has anyone experienced this before?

I’ve own an ‘07 SR5 with 220k on it and have owned it since it was new. Always Toyota serviced. LOVE this vehicle but it’s starting to show signs that it needs an overhaul. A number of smaller issues, little rust on the frame ( not the main reason for this post), cracked rear bumper, etc. anyone know of a place to get it overhauled/rebuilt? I live in WI but would take it anywhere for the right rebuild……

Finally got it “done”. Still need to clean up the wiring for the license plate light and may possibly change the latch. But for now I’m able to drive it around. Seems solid and was fun to build. Now onto a roof rack.

I just bought a 09 4Runner v6 2wd from a buddy who didn’t use it anymore. It’s got 234k miles and it’s super clean underneath and all that.

The transmission feels funny at times, sometimes if I take my foot off the gas and go over a speed bump, then reapply pressure to the accelerator, the car will rev for a second maybe and then find a gear it feels like. Also, it just feels a little laggy and like it doesn’t like low gears, it almost pulls back sometimes.

Wondering if you guys have any thoughts or suggestions on ways to move forward to check if it needs to be rebuilt or if there are other less major things to look at or get checked that might help this issue.

Thanks a million

Would these work on a 2004 4Runner has anyone done this before I’m worried about rubbing and the general offset

Tire size: The 2023 TRD Off-Road normally comes with 265/70R17 tires. Those are slightly larger than the original 265/65R17 tires on some 2004 4Runn

Was under my truck and found black, flung-looking grease splattered across the frame/crossmember right around the [front/rear] driveshaft. Pics attached.

Truck: 2005 4Runner V8 (2UZ), ~223k miles, 3" OME lift, Icon UCAs, 285/70R17s.

What I'm seeing:

• Grease spray pattern on the frame and the rubber fittings next to the shaft, looks like it's been thrown off while spinning
• A rusty ring on the shaft right at the slip yoke / boot area (pic 3)
• U-joint next to it has a zerk; not sure when it was last greased

What I haven't noticed: no clunks, vibrations, or noises that I can tell (edit if wrong).

Questions:

1. Is this normal grease fling from an over-greased slip yoke/U-joint, or does it look like a torn boot or failing seal?
2. Is the rust ring anything to worry about?
3. Clean it up and monitor, or replace something now? Planning more off-road trips so I'd rather catch it early.

Thanks in advance!

Tried to replace front struts today, it was a total shit show. First off the bottom strut bolt was basically stuck after I removed the nut I couldn’t get the bolt to move at all it was in the same position it started in from the beginning. I removed the LCA bolts to give more room but still it would not budge at all. I wanted to keep working on it but I was running out of time and didn’t want to do something that would make it un-drivable, it’s my only vehicle.

And to add more headache, the sway bar end link got stripped where the Allen wrench is supposed to go fortunately I was able to get it back on but I just ran into these two issues I couldn’t overcome.

Have you all dealt with these before?

2004 Toyota 4Runner sorry if this is a dumb question but I noticed on the dipstick it said cool and hot so I assumed if I check it with my car is cool and it’s in between those lines then I’m good same with if I check in a hot but after looking more into it, I have to have my car running for a bit and then check it if it’s on cool that means I need to add more and I want it to be on hot. apparently even if my car’s been sitting for a while it’s still gonna be on hot cause the pan full so what is the real way to check it or what do you guys do again sorry if it’s a stupid question, but I’m new to all this

Would buying these cheap replacements on eBay be a bad idea?

Just picked up my first 4th gen 4 Runner yesterday.

05 Limited 220k miles, 4WD. 2.5" ToyTec rear springs, w/ Radflo shocks/coilovers in front. Stance is perfect to me, already sent off an inquiry to Radflo to get a full shock rebuild set up.

Changed oil in engine, transfer case, both diffs, and greased everything. Ordered transmission filter this morning, and a Inner CV boot that is ripped. Other than that its clean.

One of the POs did LEDs in the gauge cluster / hvac controls and the Speedo quits working intermittently... pulling that out after i type this to see if i find a crappy solder joint.

Picking up some BFG KO3s today..

thoughts? what else am i missing?

And it said they would fit. The plug in connector is wrong. My connector goes to rear latch unlatch button and license plate lights. So I cut the connector off and ran the wire wires inside. Cut the old ones off and used a 3 spot wago for hot and ground (low volt). Wires were barely long enough but they work great super bright. The old ones were fogged up and the bulb housing stopped working with the led bulbs.

My 2006 V8 now has 164K miles. I’m the original owner.

While installing the new tires and replacing the brake pads, my mechanic found the right rear caliper seized. The left is working fine, but given the truck is 20 years old, I’m considering replacing both.
Looking at OEM calipers ([47730-35170](tel:47730-35170) and [47750-35170](tel:47750-35170)), approximately $191 each.

Would appreciate some advice. Do the OEM assemblies include everything needed, or should I order additional hardware? Should I replace the brake hoses or rotors at the same time?
Anything else I should consider?

Planning to keep her another even if we have the LC as the daily driver, so I’d rather get it done properly now.
As usual, thanks in advance.

Recently had my tires rotated after 15k miles and noticed fios after. What can be causing this? Uneven tread wear?

2006 sport v6 for reference

Basically, the title.

Almost at 380k. Been a hell of a car. Probably my favorite car to drive in the snow and is also the perfect daily. Anyone out there with a 400k or more?

1st 5 mods I should consider. Also, it's not rusted but it does have some paint issues. I plant to offroad a bit. Do wraps stand up to that?

Mostly I'm just saying hello since I just joined the group.