Hey guys,

So I'm picking up a manual 84' 2+0 next weekend to use as a donor car for a manual swap on my 88' 2+2, I have a feeling I'm going to need to buy a new drive shaft due to my Z being a 2+2 (any suggestions/recommendations for one would be greatly appreciated) but would I need to buy a new diff to or should my current one be fine?

Also, will I need to swap my E.C.U. out with the 84's or will my 88's Auto E.C.U. be fine? I've heard a lot of mixed opinions on the topic online and wanted to know if anyone had any personal experience with it

One more question, will the transmission bolts from the manual bolt up to my auto or are they too short?

Thanks!

Howdy all. I'm finally at a point in my life where I'm planning on my getting a project, and I've been very interested in the 300z. My 03 civic is pretty much a project but usually always daily-able, but looking for something with a little more fun.

Been tracking this 85 300z for a while and its got me thinking, how much would it cost to get it running and get the interior into okay shape? I'm not talking showcase worty, just something I would be happy to take to work now and again. I would do all, if not most of the work myself, and I'm already budgeting for at home engine swap. How good is parts availability for these beautys? How much for everything for the engine bay other than the cost of an Ebay engine? What about seats?

I purchased a 1996 300zx recently with an extremely loose shifter. I since replaced the shifter bushing with brass and ensured to not over tighten the shifter bushing bolt. Although since replacing the shifter bushing, it seems that it struggles going into gear. (Moving forward, clutch in, shift from 1st to 2nd sometimes grinds or just isn't smooth and same from 2nd into 1st) Planning on doing a full transmission fluid flush with Redline MT-90 but wondering why this would be the case? The transmission was buttery smooth with the floppy shifter.

EDIT: Was meant to post a video but it posted as a picture.

I am hoping some folks will provide their opinion on this car and whether $6,900 is a fair price, and if not, what you think it should be?

I’m at a loss trying to diagnose this I’ve checked the belts and they all seem fine but I’m wondering if it could possibly be alternator related because it gets worse the more of a load there is. Maybe water pump to but I’m out of ideas. Any advice would help:)

Do I need a tune if I deleted egr and carbon canister my car stuck in to open loop drive

I purchased my first 1990 300zx Z32 NA automatic. Are there any Z32 owners in the Baltimore, Maryland area? I would like to meet up to compare cars.

There's a few things I would like to change on my car like the exhaust and would like to see what you've done.

Here's a few pics of mine.

I currently have the pcv ports plugged and have the exhaust valve covers vented to atmosphere. I dont like the bit of oil on my garage floor so going with catch cans. I will connect both valve cover exhausts with a T-fitting to the IN of the can, but should I vent back into the intake or use a catch can that has a filter to vent to outside? What are the pros and cons of each?

Anyone in Eastern North Carolina by chance?

Hey guys I need some help diagnosing my car and finding out what's wrong with it.

I bought a 1990 300zx 2+0 "project", at first when I would crank the car it sounded like it wanted to start vut the starter would grind. So I replaced the starter, and it stopped grinding but wouldn't start the car still and would give me the 'pop' sound of the relay. So I replaced the starter relay, and now i get a few cranks sometimes and then it'll give me a pop again. Im going to replace the battery and check for compression, and spark tomorrow. Could anyone tell me anything else to try? I would really apprdciate it, I included a video of me trying to start the car, in this video you domt hear it wanting to go but it does after a few times I just don't wanna mess up my flywheel

My 87 Na2t 💙

What are the steps to installing the cam and crank seals? Do I need to spray things down and clean once I remove the old seals? What about installation? Dry or is there some lube I should use?

I am having this weird issue with my shifter. I have a Z1 premium shortshifter installed. I replaced the shifter knob and now the shifter is making contact with the drive shaft. I have no idea how changing the knob is now causing that. I was having a tough time with the knob and the shifter itself was turning so I had to put some glue in it to try to keep it still. I even added spacers to the plate over the shifter and still makes contacts sometimes. Anyone experience this?

Hi all. I'll start by saying I'm not all that well versed in car-talk, so please bare with me.

I recently had this car taken into the shop where they repaired the alignment and struts, so quite a bit of work has been done to the car recently (maybe something got dislodged?)

Now, my Z has the pictured issues, where the fuel meter, MPH, tachometer, and temperature gauge needles simply do not brighten as they used to. Also potentially relevant, my interior right turn signal light does not turn on either (though it works on the outside).

The second image, is simply showing everything else is working order, and the third image I included is a partial shot of how the needles previously appeared.

Also, the light control rheostat does currently work at brightening and dimming the dashboard, though I'm not sure whether this is also supposed to effect the lighting of the needles, as it currently does not.

Any advice appreciated, thanks for reading.

My 300zx has this god awful shake to it and all my tires have been mounted and balanced. Not entirely sure what could be causing it and hoping someone can give me a general idea as to what it may be. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but this is my daily so I'd like to get some insight before something catastrophic possibly happens

so my cylinder 3 injector decided it was done functioning properly, now ive got a misfire and absolutely no where near me has a injector for it. what other cars would have one thats interchangeable? thank ya in advance.

Need help I installing the radio on a 84 z31.the Datsun still has the factory wiring behind the radio it had been spliced into poorly.i removed the aftermarket wiring.purchased the metra 70-1763 adapter.but that adapter doesn’t fit the factory connector

Hello!

If any of you saw my last post I did manage to figure out what all the connectors are and one of then seems to be a connector for my Idle-Up Solenoid, the only replacement cables I have been able to find are from Z1 Motorsport and they appear to be out of stock

Does anyone if the Idle-Up Solenoid is needed?

(Photos for reference!)

Hello,

A few days ago my 88' NA caught fire and I'm currently in the process of replacing the parts and rewiring the harness

I have 2 connectors that I am at a total loss for what they are and I was hoping somebody here might be able to identify them

Thank you!

I got a clunk/click+friction sound that seems to happen with suspension load like small bumps etc so most of the road where I live, sounds maybe like a loose control arm, a bolt knocking around in it's socket and I think there's a bit of a grind while turning right, so loading the front left once again.

Nothing seems loose when I check, wheels don't move up, down or sideways, and I checked every bolt I've touched. It's fine if it's stationary.

Lately I had the power steering rack bushings replaced, I changed the front shocks, had a bit of a problem with steering shaft rubbing the headers I made.

Control arm? Bushing? Would that move around only with the forces of driving? And cause some kind of grinding sound? And be undetectable by the small forces I can apply to it while it's jacked up?

*edit* it must have been a rock lodged in there somewhere

My 1991 n/a auto only starts when i am bypassing the relay. Any known issues that may cause it? I was thinking maybe a bad inhibitor switch or something.

Thanks

Hello! I recently was trying to get my vtc sprockets torqued because of oil leak and pretty sure didn't torque to spec when I did the 120k. Anyways one half of the engine sprockets spun to TDC and when I originally tried to torqued the VTC sprocket the engine wasn't in TDC center I was just past TDC by 8 teeth. How would get the engine to TDC? I'm a bit spooked to manually move the other sprockets to TDC without breaking anything. Thank you for any input