My journey to avoid liquid dyeing these things continues.Â
I decided to get a little scientific about it to zero in on a good irrigation process for tight folds. I love the color effects I get with irrigation (see slide [2] - what I call the âjuicyâ effect) - but in my early testing of the method I wasnât able to consistently get good saturation - especially for tightly-tied shirts.Â
Enter my kenney irrigation experiment. I tied up four shirts and worked with two variables: temperature (165F vs 115F) and soda ash timing (immediate to dissolve the dye vs. water first, soda ash after 15mins). I mixed my soda ash 1:4 by volume with water. I sprayed my water and soda ash solution on to the shirts with regular cheap spray bottles.Â
RESULTS
Irrigating with water before applying soda ash is the unequivocal winner. Temperature variation had less of an effect. Maybe this is basic knowledge for many of you - but I am new and had to find this out for myself. This backs up what I already knew about why we ice dye and liquid dye - you need water to carry the dye into tight folds before fixing it. Without that initial flow, the dye is still on the surface when the soda ash hits, and generally it stays there. More on that after my shirt-by-shirt breakdown.Â
Shirt 1: Rainbow. 165F, water first. Process: dye powder -> water -> flip -> dye powder -> water. Wait 15 mins. Hot soda ash -> flip -> soda ash.Â
I love this thing. Juicy and beautiful. Weâre talking Gauguin colors. Makes me want to try 50 slightly different rainbows with this exact method.
Shirt 2: Moss Green/Avocado/Mushroom. 115F, water first. Same process as above, but I let my water and solution cool to around 115 before applying. More like âwarm water irrigation.â
Thereâs a lot I like about this one, but itâs not perfect. I think my front center tie (half-assed mandala) and my color choices could have been better. I was expecting Shiitake mushroom to bloom into more shades - at this temperature, it did not. But as far as saturation and texture, I think this shows that Warm Water Irrigation is a great option.
Shirt 3: Daffodil/Bluebird/Turq. 165F, immediate soda ash. So the process was powder -> soda ash -> flip -> powder -> soda ash.
When I was pouring the soda ash, it looked like I was getting good penetration. I wasnât. Alas for my thicker sections.Â
Even though thereâs a lot of white space, the parts that came out came out nicely. Something about the texture on the front gives me more of an authentic Kenney feeling than anything else in this batch. Again, more on that later. All of that said, I think this was the least successful overall.Â
Shirt 4: Scarlet/Daffodil/Peach/Terracotta. 115F, immediate soda ash. Similar white space issue to shirt #3, though less extreme. Whiteâs a color. And again, what came out came out well.Â
CONCLUSION & EXTRAPOLATION
Both of the immediate soda ash shirts, while lacking something in saturation, have that deep, layered, vastly complicated characteristic that you see in Mr. Kenneyâs actual work - what I call the âexoskeletonâ texture. Here is my theory on why that is, and how I plan to use that knowledge to make my âsuccessfulâ shirts even more righteous:Â
My theory (fairly sure of this from observing this test) is that the exoskeleton texture comes from thick dye getting fixed right on the surface of the tied shirt. The dye powder/hot soda ash combo produce a thick paste that canât really soak into the nubs. It stays on the surface, fixes there, and creates the whole image you see on the shirt. The result is a really interesting visualization of surface area vs. interior area, and a stark relief of the string. Itâs quite cool.Â
So - hereâs how I plan to combine the strengths of both approaches to establish a no-liquid-dye full kenney method. A juicy-exoskeleton synthesis, if you will.
- Hot or warm water irrigate, water first. Apply powder dye to one side, irrigate, flip, apply and irrigate again. Stagger color placement between the two sides for more detail.Â
- After 15 minutes, apply more dye powder (darker colors, probably) and immediately hit with hot soda ash solution. This will create that thick paste that fixes right on the surface.Â
Alternatively I might try mixing up some thick & concentrated dark colored dye and squirting it on right before soda ash application. But that wouldnât be a liquid-dye free method, would it?Â
So what we would have (if this works) is essentially the full pariah method, except you donât need to go through the sweaty, hardware-intensive process of measuring and blending a bunch of concentrated chem water dyes. I live in a small apartment so this is important for me. All you need is powder dye, water, soda ash solution, and one table's worth of space. You mix everything directly on the shirt. What a world!
A final note on this method vs. my previous trial of ice-dyeing kenneys. Ice dyeing gave me amazing subtle gradients and variety that didnât show up at all in my irrigation tests. When all is said and done, I might end up preferring the ice. We shall see.Â
Much love. More soon.Â