Hi all! New to this community. Seasoned traveler (45M, swedish, traveled a lot for business, solo and in groups).
I am on a sabbatical leave, meaning I have some precious free time where I can discover parts of the world on my own while my "travel friends" are still working.
I had never been to Portugal -- so why not try Lisbon? Saw that you encouraged trip reports, and felt this could be a way for me to store some of my memories and see what other solo travelers think!
Wed 14th -> Tue 20th of October, no detailed plan.
Budget (using USD for convenience)
I had initially budgeted $1.5k, 50% for flights and accomodation, 50% for everything else. I like food/drinks, so expected to splurge. Ended up spending $2k, a bit above budget but mainly due to souvenir buys and extra drinks at nice cocktail bars.... no regrets!
Actual spend:
Flights: $400 with from CPH to LIS with 1 extra stop in FRA (Lufthansa) on the way out and ZRH (Swissair) on the way home. Decent price since I booked it all the week before.
Accomodation: $400, guest house accomodation in Alcantara.
Transportation: $100 inc trains back in CPH and train trips to Cascais and Sintra, plus some amount of metro/bus hopping and a few Ubers.
Food: $400, restaurants and cafes, no meals at the guest house (except some Lidl snacks...)
Other: $700, museum entrance fees, beers, wine, drinks, city tourist tax, souvenirs, other purchases and misc fun stuff.
Trip Length
6 nights. This was more than enough and gave space for relaxation and taking things at a calm pace, the accomodation was cheap enough that an extra night or two wasn't bad.
Destinations
Lisbon, with day trips to Sintra and Cascais.
Accommodation
Guest house "C&O Guest House Lisbon" in Alcantara, with a nice private room and shared bathrooms (two bathrooms for five rooms). Good amenities, nice shared kitchen, and the location was convenient -- not in the city central, but really close to transportation (buses and trams) to get into the city center and to Belem, and close to two train stations (Alcantara-Mar and Alcantara-Terra) to get to both Cascais and Sintra respectively. Would absolutely stay in the same area again.
Warning! Quite noisy due to proximity to traffic. This was a little issue the very first night, hard to sleep with not enough sound isolation. However for all nights except the first, I slept like a baby anyway.
Activities / daily fun
I didn't really plan this trip in detail, just saw the weather forecast -- the winter half year is dreadful in Sweden, and the weather in Lisbon looked excellent. Happily, this was true! I enjoyed blue skies and +25 degrees celsius (and more!) every single day, exactly what I was looking for as a relaxing escape.
I like exploring the town in my own pace using local transportation (buses, trams, metro, local/regional trains) -- went fine in Lisbon. Well, fine since I wasn't in any kind of rush. Almost 100% of the buses were delayed, but it seemed kind of normal, so I just went with it.
Wednesday: After being one hour behind schedule at check-in (see "what went wrong"), I started wandering in the immediate surroundings of Alcantara, hunting for some food. I decided to splurge on seafood, and found a great restaurant not too far from my place (Orla Marisqueria) that served me an excellent starter of tuna followed by mains of lobster/prawns in a rice dish. Not sure how to explain it, but it was a great mid/high-end fish and shellfish start to the trip, exactly what I was looking for. I grabbed a gin drink at a nearby place before bed time as I usually do on my first day, again at a very cozy and comfortable little hideaway bar.
Thursday: Sintra. Easy train trip from Alcantara, and a gorgeous day. Already from the start I could see why Sintra is recommended, a beautiful town littered with sights, both green sites and historical buildings. Went to the palace building and the Biester Palace (not many people there compared to the main sites but a great place!), and had the best octopus that I have had for a long long time -- as well as famous Queijada de Sintra, another of those pastrys but local to Sintra (pastel de neta is the famous one that you will find everywhere in Lisbon). A great day! Time flies and at night I found a nice midrange little mom-n-pop restaurant in Alcantara and had sausages and one of the hundreds of bacalhau variants, really good and I feel asleep easily after this day.
Friday: Full focus on the city center. Lavish breakfast at some cafe place in Baixa de Lisboa. You will find such places pretty much everywhere, I just did some searches and walked around until I found something nice. Climbed up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge, recommended! I was early so no lines, when I left an hour or two later the lines were sprawling. Got lost and had fun navigating mainly Alfama, having some nice time in the sun at the different sightseeing spots that are littered around town. Had another bacalhau variant for lunch and a nice craft beer in the afternoon in the sun. Quick crash back at the guest house before the evening, where I went wine-bar-hopping (excellent wine and tapas, especially the ham and cheese!), ended up at a really nice cocktail bar in the Bairro Alto area ("The royal vessel"), stumbled along to other bars in the area ("Black Sheep Lisboa") where there were a ton of happy people (and dogs!) having fun in outdoors in the square. There are many nice squares full of life in Lisbon.
Saturday: Took an uber home. Woke up with a hangover but no matter. Went to Cascais, there was some kind of Iron Man competition going on in town (full of people and great vibes overall!). The beach was lovely and there were lots of great things to see in Cascais as well. Easy to just walk in whatever direction and find things popping up along the way. Went to see the art district and the "Boca de inferno". Another lovely sunny day and the hangover subsided quickly. For the evening, yet another food-and-bar-hopping round in the city center, now with focus on first the food market "Timeout market", then Bairro Alto, jumping between different cocktail bars to find new people to talk to. It went fine and I had a great saturday, full of life. Special shoutouts to the owner of a wine bar that I unfortunately forgot the name of, but... If you go to Lisbon, you will find stuff to do at night!
Sunday: Another uber home and a good nights sleep. Belem time, more sights and pastries and sun and horse shows and monuments etc. Had lovely sardines and chicken as tapas in the evening in the city center -- less alcohol this time!
Monday: A more calm and relaxing day. Started with enjoying another full cafe breakfast, then went to the Gulbenkian museum, as many other places are closed on Mondays. I recommend it, had a good time both with the historical exhibits as well as the modern parts. A nice pizza for lunch and then the usual couple of "break beers" while exploring the city from north to south along the Avenue da Liberdade via the big park close to the museum. Very relaxing! In the evening spent my time at LX Factory, a hipstery, artsy part with many little shops and restaurants of a slightly more local/alternative style. It was very good, not too touristy, has perhaps become slightly gentrified compared to what I would imagine it was at the start, but for me it was great. Had a good time, spent some money, found nice food, and so on.
Tuesday: Check-out day. I had an afternoon flight so had time for just one more destination. Decided to go to the Parque das Nacoes, just a few stops from the airport so very convenient as a last stop. There is a very nice park lined with restaurants here, which was perfect for me -- and you could see an infrastructure highlight from here, the longest bridge in the EU -- The vasco da gama bridge. I ended up having a nice full shellfish platter to end my trip with a splurge, before heading back to the airport to go home...
What Went Right
As mentioned the climate/weather was superb. I could not be more happy with the way things turned out. The public transportation system was easy to use, just "zapping" with the Navegante card was enough for all journeys. And one of my primary goals, finding great seafood -- accomplished! It was easy to find excellent restaurants with fish and/or shellfish, all of which was really really good. My secondary goal when city-hopping is to find great cocktail bars -- this mission was also accomplished! One of the friendly bartenders upon hearing of my quest told me "oh you like cocktail bars? here are six more recommendations to go to!" which is exactly what I like to hear, so I did not run out of places to get drinks at all.
People are friendly and sociable, one common theme when it comes to solo traveling is how to handle restaurants and bars when you go by yourself. I found this worked without any problems at all in Lisbon! I typically eat early in Sweden so I have a habit of going out to restaurants on solo travels when they open, and I then find that you get really good attentive service and can have a nice relaxed conversation with both the staff and with other "early birds". I did the same one night at a wine bar, and ended up having really long conversations with both the owner and the other guests and learnt a lot about portugues wines and wine culture (I am not a wine expert, more of a beer and gin drinker).
The sights are extraordinary, as with many historical city centers there is more than enough to see. Highlights were Castelo de Sao Jorge, all of Alfama (easy to get lost and have a good time just wandering the streets), the cathedral, the different "Miradouros" dotted around the place, and just the general cozy feeling of it all.
What Went Wrong
On arrival, I noticed that the metro was closed due to a strike. Oh well, no big deal, can just take a taxi or an Uber right? Wrong! The queues were enormous and ride-hailing was stuck, so I went by the normal buses instead, which of course were packed due to the strike situation. I had planned to use normal public transport anyway but wasn't really prepared to do it on day one while tired after the flights, especially since I had booked an appointment for the guest house -- but my host was friendly and accommodating even though the change of plans and delays due to slow baggage handling etc meant I was late by an hour. This is the usual advice -- add some buffers to your travel plans in case things are not optimal when you arrive.
Some of the places in Sintra and Belem require time-slotted reservations. I knew about it before, but I did not act on it and just went to Sintra without reservations. I had a great time there anyway but I noticed on the ticket pages that the convenient time slots were all sold out. No matter, there is much to see even outside the main sights, and I left feeling more than happy with my day trip. I might very well be back in the future and then I know to make a couple of reservations a day or two in advance! So there are one or two sights that remain for a follow-up trip, good motivation to come back!
Recommendations
Just walking around and taking in the historical significance and culture is a must. Talking to the friendly people with an open mind is great. The fish and shellfish is excellent if you look for good places! I would definitely prioritize "middle/high end" places for food, and focus on local food with seafood focus rather than international food and so on. Had lovely Iberico ham as well at one of the wine tasting places! Oh yes, the good little bars and wine bars and cocktail places were really nice, and the town is full of life on fri/sat.
Of course the pastries are a must to try as well. And there are so many not-to-miss-sights in both Lisbon proper and in Sintra -- there are more things to see than you can manage even if you have a full week.
Final Verdict
Easily worth the trip. Many things were as expected (I have been to Spain, Italy, France, Greece before and Portugal is in some sense not wildly off in vibe from some of the places I have been to before), but overall a delightful, relaxing trip! Not too expensive, just the right amount of chaos, but civilized and friendly.
Thanks all and I have enjoyed catching up and reading other posts in this community. Look forward to more inspiration for future trips.
Anything else that should be part of this trip report? All feedback is appreciated.
Let me know what I missed or what I "did wrong" if you are from Portugal/Lisbon! I would love to come back.