Whose ready to see some of the fun setting about 16 months after the accident did

Hi everyone.

2.2L, 1994 Reg cab 108 wb.

Looking for clarity on part numbers for the front pipe for my truck.

I think I'm looking for AP Exhaust 38891. Is there one by Walker?

Located in Canada.

Anyone have a recommendation for parts?

Picked up this 2000 S10 ZR2 not to long ago but noticed on the passenger side the bed sits further back from the cab than the driver side. The key is snug and won’t push in anymore on the drivers side but on the passenger side I’ve got room to move side to side. Is the bed just loose and crooked or is my frame cooked.

Topless s10. Has a cage underneath the tarp/cover but yeah pretty crazy to see it cut up as a convertible.

Over the last few months I've replaced all the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and ICM. It's been running pretty well for the last couple of weeks but on my drive home tonight i got a P0305 halfway home. Ended up driving the rest of the way with no issues and assumed it was going to be something with the gas cap. But no it was a cylinder 5 misfire. I've had mis fires on 1 and 5 before which is why i replaced what i mentioned earlier, but i cant believe the spark plug or wire would already be damaged again. And the distributor cap and rotor are only 2 months old. What else could be causing a misfire? Could it have been a random misfire that fixed itself and that's why it still drove home and idled fine?

Its 2 am here so it's too dark to actually check anything tonight but i will in the morning. I also cleared the code so we'll see if it pops up again.

2003 4.3l s10 rwd

The title says it all lol help please 2002 Chevy S10 2.2L

After replacing the intake gasket on my 98 S10 4.3L 4x4, I put it back together and fired it up, but the belt was squealing very badly. I torqued the A/C and alternator brackets, and since I found the tensioner was a little worn, I replaced it and installed a new serpentine belt. While the belt was off, I spun all of the pulleys and did not hear any grinding, as they spun freely. It fixed the issue immediately, but the next morning on a cold start, it started squealing again; it stopped after 30 seconds, and that happened every morning. When it was happening, I noticed my volt gauge was at 12V, and the squealing stopped after the volt gauge read 14V, so I was thinking the alternator was running at max output to charge the battery. Since the battery tested bad a few years ago and was 6 years old, I went ahead and got a new one, and seeing that a group 75 and 78 were the same price, I bought the larger battery and installed it. I also threw in a new alternator because Fuck it, I thought that would fix it; however, it now squeals sometimes on a cold start, and if I bring the engine up to about 2,500 RPM, the squeal stops. Before I touched the intake gaskets, the belt would squeal on a cold start with the A/C on, but if I turned it off and then back on, it always went away. Have any of you dealt with this before? I am kind of puzzled now.

Anyone know a better replacement for this spring clip? Mine is fucked and i don’t want to buy a whole
New actuator for just the clip

2002 2.2L, crank but now start. Will fire with a shot of starting fluid or spray of gas into intake, but won’t stay running.

I suspect the fuel pump. Fuse is good relay is good. Haven’t been able to check for power at pump yet. Anything that I could look into before having to take the bed off?

For context, the truck has been sitting in a tree row for about 4-5 years.

Here's a quick before and after, the day I got it and now that it's done cosmetically.

I have a 99s10 v6 with the oem spider injectors, recently been having some starting issues and one of the things ive narrowed it down to is the injectors, i have 60-66 psi of fuel pressure and it runs on starter fluid, i bought a set of noid lights to test to make sure the injectors are getting power, my question is how do I test the harness with the noid lights, do I have to tear into the throttle body and intake manifold or is there a easier to access plug?

Does anybody know a better clip or even a replacement for the clip that holds the cable inside the vacuum actuator under the battery tray? My clip is fugged up and i can get it to hold onto the tip of the cable. It’s a shitty design to begin with it’s just wire wrapped around it so even if there’s a better replacement I’m down! Any help would be great thanks

My truck is a 1984 2.8L, I went ahead and re did the vacuum lines after installing the Weber conversion kit, and wanted to find replacement inlets, claps, inserts or whatever the plastic piece is called to connect these lines back to the air cleaner but Havnt had any luck so I’m asking the internet for a miracle 🙏

Also, I know it’s not necessary I’m just deep down the rabbit hole and don’t want to turn around now 😂

I made a previous post called “ HELP WITH DOOR PINS” & another one called “HELP WITH DOOR PINS 2”.

i finally got the pins in, but the door is still saggy, doesn’t line up with the door latch.
what’s the problem? & how do i fix it?

Hi so i am trying to remove the front diff and i obviously need to remove the shift cable that connects from the front diff to the actuator under the battery tray. I cannot seem to disconnect the cable at the differential side… I’ve read you pull that plastic triangle back far enough to fit your finger in there and release some sort of clip but no luck for me. Any help?

The after shot of the powder coating in did on the fenders and brakes.

Ok so i need some help and some advice on how I would be able to take off these transmission oil cooler lines off my transmission on my 1989 S10 Tahoe v6 4.3L. It's a really tight space so I wanted to try and take off the front of the exhaust pipe to get more clearance. The O2 sensor gets in the way but its pretty much welded on the damn pipe because of how old it is. I tried disconnecting it from the connector but the connector is in such a tight space I can't disconnect it. How would I go about this to get enough clearance space to disconnect the line???

I'll provide some picture below.

Hello everyone,

I know this is a S10 subreddit, but I need help on my 1999 Oldsmobile Bravada.

I’ve been trying to diagnose it for the past week, got left stranded 2 hours away home and had it towed. Classic Crank, no start. I’ve tested Fuel pressure, Spider Injector Pulse. Both passed with the fuel pressure being at 60 psi when priming, I commanded the Spider Injector to pulse with my scan tool and checked each and all injected fuel. RPM shows in the gauge, so I don’t suspect the CKP sensor. So it’s not a fuel issue.

So now I tested spark, and didn’t get any spark from the ignition coil. I tested the ignition control module harness for power when the key is on and I did register power. So I’m stuck

I would appreciate any kind of help as I don’t know where to go from now!

Are there decent instructions out there how to replace the antenna on the S10?

I can easily remove the physical mount, but I hear you need to essentially take the whole dash off to unplug the existing antenna from the back of the radio and getting the new antenna through the firewall involves quite a bit of disassembly?

How hard is the heater core to replace in a 1995 S10 with 4.3? Don’t have any heat but it’s not leaking in the floor nor has it been bypassed. Any suggestions or recommendations would help.
Thanks.

2003 2.2 automatic not running