I had an s55 W220 before it’s crazy only a 11 year difference can make!

I drove a 2026 GLC recently and really liked it. The braking system felt so smooth, the interior was beautiful, and most importantly of all for me, the parking and driver's assistance was good. I liked that it showed me an arial view of the car when I was reversing and stuff, very useful for parallel parking.

However, my dad's GLB 250 doesn't have that, so I'm worried if I get a car of my own that will be on the cheaper side, it won't either. I actually don't really enjoy driving the GLB. Not sure exactly why, but it feels kind of heavy and hard to steer + brake. The seats are also a bit hard. Would this be a possibility for the car I get too? I know my dad's is also on the older and cheaper side of Mercedes cars.

My budget is only 15k, and I've found quite a few C-Class sedans from 2017 for around that price. Would that be okay? Comfort while driving is a pretty big factor for me. I also don't want it to be too outdated in terms of appearance and technology. Would prefer a smaller car over big SUVs.

Why do these key fob batteries typically only last a few months?

I have two 2011 GL550's each with 2 key fobs. The batteries in all of the remotes have terribly short lifespans. Is there something about the age of the key fob that could be shortening their life?

Hi,

Can anyone help me regarding some trim removal on my 2018 C-Class coupé? I'm wanting to replace the window switch unit, but in order to do so, I need to remove the plastic cover.

All online guides relate to the saloon version. On the coupé version, which end is held in by the clip that can't be popped open? (Marked in green)

I'm not keen on prying open the wrong end and breaking the fixture.

Thanks

I've been car hunting for a while now, and my final two choices came down to the C43 AMG and E450 Coupe, mainly because they share the same engine, upon other things, but anyways I am leaning toward the E450 for a balance of performance, style, and better value for the money.

Anyways, this car is at a nearby Mercedes-Benz dealer w/ a good amount of installed packages including AMG Night Package, AIR BODY CONTROL, and Burmester Sound System.

Asking price is $32,997 and OTD ~$36,835. It is CPO and relatively low mileage. However, on the dealer website, car does show minor paint scuffs/scratches and tiny dent (looks like it), on the two "bulges" of the rear license plate.

I've looked at comparable E450 Coupes on the market, and this seems like a really competitive price, especially considering the CPO warranty, low mileage, and options. Too good to be true?

Does this seem like a genuinely good deal, is there something I am overlooking? Is it possible to negotiate the price down given cosmetic defects?

Would appreciate any input from current or previous E450 owners!

Six months with my new Mercedes, and nearly three months in the shop. Constant problems, no manufacturer support, no buyback. I've had to hire a lawyer. Extremely disappointed in Mercedes-Benz.

Hi everyone,

I have a 1997 Mercedes-Benz E240 with a 2.4L V6 engine (M112), and I'm trying to identify a ticking noise.

The engine is quiet immediately after a cold start, but after about 3–5 minutes, a faint, rapid, rhythmic ticking noise begins.

Some additional details:

• The engine runs smoothly and idles normally.
• The ticking is very faint and noticeable mainly when listening closely.
• I drove over 200 km, including some hard driving, and the noise did not get noticeably louder.
• The oil level has remained stable.
• The engine oil and filter were old and dirty.
• Someone suggested it might be piston noise, but no proper diagnostic tests have been performed.

I'm wondering whether this could be injector ticking, a hydraulic lifter/valvetrain noise, the EVAP purge valve, or possibly a piston or wrist-pin issue.

Has anyone experienced something similar on the Mercedes M112 V6? Based on the video, what would you suspect first, and what would you check before considering internal engine damage?

I've attached a video of the noise. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!

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Mercedes-AMG GT Black Series

Born for the track, built for passion

720 HP | Pure AMG performance

I just picked up my car after the shop replaced the transmission valve body to fix a “Reversing not possible—service required” warning. On my way home, the same warning popped up again.
It happened while I was in Drive, and the car briefly lost power. The warning went away, and it seems to be driving normally again.
The shop says they scanned it with Mercedes-specific diagnostic equipment and road-tested it. When they checked it again, they told me no codes came up.
Has anyone experienced this after a valve body replacement? I’ve read about ABS/wheel-speed sensors causing similar symptoms, but I don’t have a confirmed sensor fault. Could that explain it, or what else should the shop be checking?
I’ve spent almost $8,000 on recent repairs and want to understand what testing should be done before replacing anything else.

Anyone installed a carbon wheel on the EQE AMG?

What I'm referring to is the 2005-2008(W164)
Mercedes ML320CDI and the 2006-2010(7L
Facelift) VW Touareg 3.OTDI, both automatic and 4x4 obviously. Here's my concern:

I need a car for towing, and I'm in the Balkans where accessibility and parts are best for German cars, but if you guys have any other suggestions around the same price range I would consider anything.

I'm having a hard time choosing between these 2 cars, so I would appreciate help with advice and first hand experience with reliability, capability etc.

Hello, it is time to change my car. Now I own a Mercedes w211 2.2 diesel. I am thinking about switching to w212 or w205 2.0 diesel. I like the looks of w205 and the back, but I Fear that I might feel the switch from e class to c class. But on the other hand, c class is smaller and better to park in cities. Although I rarely had a problem with that, but sometimes if happens in tight spaces. Anyone had these 2 cars and have any opinions on that?