Sound started earlier today. Not sure as to what it would be. Sounds kinda similar to when my timing chain was slapping my valve cover but I had my vvt redone around 10k miles ago.

I have had this car for a little over a year now and have been dealing with suspension noise the whole time. Everything about this car is great but the suspension is louder than the exhaust. The noise is mostly in the rear and sounds like each bump is 5x bigger than it really is. It is like a “clunk clunk” sound over bumps especially at low speed. I have replaced the shocks(Koni orange), the end links, rear sway bar bushing, and strut mounts with almost no help. I am thinking about throwing it on BC Coilovers to help the build and the suspension but don’t wanna drop all that money for no fix. I know this is a common problem on these cars and am wondering what you think it is? I can answer any questions to help solve it. Would love to get this fixed and make the car feel new again!

I'm making this post to announce that we currently have a large supply of fuel pump internals in stock and ready to ship!

If you’ve been thinking about picking up a set, now is a great time to do so. Whether you’re looking for a gift for the enthusiast in your life or getting a head start on your next project before spring, we’ve got you covered.

Don't forget to use Code: CorkSportRocks! to receive a FREE E85 Safe HPFP O-Ring Rebuild Kit too!

1. Add HPFP to your cart, then...
2. Add a HPFP O-ring kit to your order #Gen-6-998-10, then...
3. Add Code: CorkSportRocks! at checkout!

With Autotech rumored to be out of stock, demand for our fuel pump internals is picking up. Don’t wait until the last minute or risk missing out! Grab a set while we still have plenty in stock and get a head start on your next build.

ABS. TCS, Brake, PS, TPMS all lit up. No power steering, tpms flashing, no speedo.

EPS & U2023 Code.

Did the module shit the bed? Advice?

Hi, I want to get my boyfriend a blow off valve for christmas for his 2010 mps, it’s stage 1 with a aftermarket cold air intake pushing 300bhp

however, i don’t want to get anything bad or something that won’t fit because i’ll be spending £200+

His car already had a turbo pshhhh, just not extremely loud. the turbo is the heart of the car and i know he wants one.

just looking for some advise!!

current ideas on my list i have : GFB Respons TMS
, Turbosmart Kompact Dual Port

any guidance will be appreciated :’)

TLDR: How long can I carefully drive a speed 3 when the vvt actuator needs replacing if at all?

Have recently acquired a speed 3 (or mps 3 here in Aus) and have been making my way through maintenance and such when I realised I had a rattle coming from the timing chain area on a cold start - so I pulled the valve cover and I've got the dreaded chain marks in the cover.

As I'm in Aus, vvt kits from corksport or edge autosport are both very expensive and take time to get here, and this speed 3 is currently my only car.

Two questions, first being can I drive my speed 3 and keep it say under 3000rpm to stay out of any vvt and stay out of boost?

Second question, for any Aus mps owners or anyone else that knows, is there any good place to source a vvt kit from in Australia or just bite the bullet and get one from the US?

(Yes it's a dumb question to ask if I can drive a car when it may jump timing but here we are)

Further info- the car is completely stock, has had a timing chain done at 195k (currently 225) but otherwise I believe has never had vvt or really any other major engine components replaced (turbo, etc)

On one hand, the ms3 especially the 2nd gen is my all time dream car and on the other, i still want a reliable daily whicu is where the base comes in. I've been looking at listings for both and i have the budget. The main ms3 listing ive been looking at seems to be decent and its been modded before as most other listings are and I wanna know if it would have any major problems based on the mod list shown below.

Cylinder head has been rebuilt with new valves, springs seals etc. New mazda timing components

3" jbr intake and boost tubes

Autotech hpfp

Catless downpipe fully straight piped

Egr and vtcs deleted

New Chris ward rebuilt turbo and injectors

Mac 3 port boost controller

Balance chaft delete with Bob speed oil pan baffle, new rod bearings installed when there

New tires, brakes, front control arms and swaybar links, new raceland coilovers.

New clutch

Tuned by freektune

Theres also what seems to be an unmolested 1st gen with 194k km (120k miles) but yeah main point is idk if these cars would be good enough to use as commuters or should i just go for a base model instead.

Edit: this would also be my first car purchase

I have a 2010 speed 3 that I just put an engine in and now I am getting a cam position sensor code and not building pressure at the HPFP, the ECU is commanding around 1000kpa but I am only getting 100ish, I should add that I rebuilt the HPFP with corksport internals, the cam position sensor code is causing it to not command spark and I have swapped the sensor with the old one and nothing changed. This is my first engine swap and I will admit im a little in over my head so any help would be appreciated.

Wanted to go a different route with my 2010 Mazdaspeed3 instead of the usual CorkSport, ETS, Cobb, or CP-E setup.
Ended up importing this Odula TMIC straight from Osaka, Japan 🇯🇵. I know Odula is more popular in the Japanese Axela scene, but I rarely see anyone running their parts here in the States.
Planning to compare against the stock TMIC and see how it performs.
Anybody here ever run Odula parts on their Speed3? Curious to hear your experiences!

Bought a used OEM passenger headlight for my 2010 tech pack, with HID and AFS. Both headlights have the same part number, BBM5-51-030. I figured it would be a straight swap.

The headlight and DRL work fine, but now the AFS light won’t stop blinking. It worked before the swap.

Pulled it back out and noticed the wiring is different. My original has five wires across the top of the plug that connects to the loom, while the replacement has four. The connector near the ballast is different too.

Am I missing something here? Can different versions have the same number molded into the housing? What should I be checking to make sure I get the right one?

I haven’t owned a speed 3 in years. Found some parts in storage. I tried giving them away on my local Mazdaspeed facebook group but it’s a dead group and no one wanted them. Send me a message proving that you are going to build an engine, send me a few bucks to cover shipping, and they are all free!

Crank bolt
Friction washers x3
OEM HPFP internals

(Photo for attention)

Howdy everyone I just figured I’d reach out and see if I could get some help. I’m in North East Texas and looking for a single 1st generation Speed3 wheel. One of mine has formed a small crack on the inside. I don’t have the money right now to get a new set of wheels but I’d like to avoid putting a random non matching 4th wheel on her.
Some of my other wheels aren’t in great shape either so I’m not looking for a perfect example, just one that’ll work. I also included my location because I’m more than happy to make a drive to pick one up off of anyone. I feel like this is a long shot but I figured I’d just ask cause my speed is such a fun car and I’m hoping I won’t have to shelve her for a bit till I can get a full set of new wheels.
Thanks for any info/help.

Hey guys, I’ve been wanting to upgrade my current daily (2010 Mazda 3 2L) to a gen 2 mazdaspeed3, and there’s one in my area that is finally close to my budget that I’m really considering, but I want to get more opinions since I’ve never driven or known anyone who owns one.

I would need it to be at least pretty reliable as my current car has been unbelievably reliable.

It’s a 2012 with 282,000 kms (175k miles), only 2 owners, both were families who just had long commutes. Never modded or tuned and clean title.
Catalytic converters and front suspension recently replaced.

The only negative (aside from mileage) is described verbatim as: “some sort of electrical gremlin, the cooling fan sometimes stays on after the car is shut off, I solved that with a little automatic kill switch. You lose all your radio stations but she won’t leave you stranded with a dead battery.”

Is this a common issue any of you have dealt with? And should I make the jump for 6000$ CAD?

TLDR
interested in unmolested 2012 Mazdaspeed3 with 282k kms, with a problem with the cooling fan staying on. How reliable can I expect it to be, and is it worth the buy, or stay away?

TIA

Yup, you read that right.
Working with my brother on re-assembling the engine to a crate engine he ordered and I cannot for the life of me figure out where these go. Tired of trying to have ChatGPT help me. Note, the engine block itself was never torn open, only all supporting components on the outside that attach to it.
Yes I am an idiot. I will say it for you.

Hi everyone!

I’m looking for advice on a clutch for my 2012 Mazdaspeed3 Tech Package (favorite car of all time).

The current clutch still works well but I feel it starting to slip. In addition, the throw-out bearing squeaks, so I’m trying to figure out whether I should replace just the bearing or do the clutch while the transmission is out. Something to note also is that this car is also not a daily driver.

Current setup:

BNR S1 turbo
Cobb Accessport V3
Cobb intake with Spectre filter
GrimmSpeed boost controller
Custom tune by Justin at Freektune
Single-exit cat-back exhaust
Aftermarket rear motor mount
Raceland Ultimo coilovers

I’m looking for a clutch that can reliably handle the car’s current power, but I don’t want an unnecessarily aggressive setup. Street drivability, reasonable pedal effort, longevity, and value are my biggest factors.

Any feedback / recommendations are highly appreciated!

Featuring my new (old) garage that I fucking hit yesterday 😞I just sat there for a minute contemplating life. But I’m happy to have it in a garage again. I have other paint correction to do, so it’s kinda whatever but still sucks

Gotta do a head gasket job due to an oil leak, but any upgrade I should make to the head itself. I’m also replacing all valve stem seals as well. It is a stock block. Or should I wait until it blows up to start putting money into the block and head thanks

I believe I finally figured out my issue after months 😂 All it took was a $60 smoke machine (I got tired of throwing parts at it 🤣).
Smoke is coming out right at the BOV connection. I have a Turbo XS blow-off valve that’s supposed to be “top of the line,” so I’m not sure if it’s even worth just swapping the spring or if I should replace the whole thing.
Do I need to replace the entire BOV, or can I get away with just the spring/seal? Anyone dealt with a leaking Turbo XS on a Speed3?

Is it okay to drop my ig? I'm almost at 1k followers; nullspeed3

Pics tomorrow but it was a 2007 black with the mazdaspeed CAI and exhaust system from Mazda.

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Looking for mazda homies! Drop a pic of your car + IG handle 👀

I’ll start. @kmps

like the title states looking for some help on fitting some wide tires on my 1st gen. Not looking to run it for “fitment” or stance life. Cars pushing about 600 wheel and 255s arnt cutting it in 1st-4th. Trying to fit 275s so if anyone has fit that please share wheel specs, Spacers, and if u needed extended studs.