I have had my 2026 CX5 for two months with no issues till today. I think I might have found an issue that needs a fix. I was in an area where cell service was bad for a while and when I left the SOS started dinging and communication was lost and never came back on when getting back to good cell service. So when I got home I went into settings privacy/data communications and disabled it and wait a minute then turned it back on and I had service again. It seems if you lose cell service for any length of time it has trouble reconnecting. I have the latest firmware for the car. Have submitted this issue to Mazda!

Surprised my wife with a CX-90 for our anniversary (we have our first baby on the way).

Zoom zoom.

Now that the CX-6e and CX-5 is out there what do you think comes next?

CX-30e or a new small car? Or the 3e reveal?

We know that the hybrid CX-5 engine is for next year, but I am sure they will bring a new model to the car shows in January. The Mazda 3 upgrade is very long in the tooth so that is a likely candidate. I am sure the US and EU tariffs changed their earlier plans on electrification, but looking at the current palette a CX-30e based on the SL05 would be a logical step. There were also rumors that the Mazda 3 will be based on the Deepal L06.

So what are your guesses?

My NZ-spec 2017 CX-9 Limited has lost the left halo (both park light and DRL). The indicator and low beam on that side are fine, and so is the right halo. Fuses are shared, so it's the LED board inside the headlight. Mazda only sells the full unit (TK59-51-040) at around $1,900.
I found one used in NZ and it sold before I got to it. The other option is Get Electronic in Christchurch, who repair the board, but there's a $575 fee even if it can't be fixed. I've got about three weeks for the WoF recheck.
Has anyone had one of these repaired, or found a used one?

We’ve had our 2026 CX-70 PHEV for about 2 months now and just completed a 4-day trip on which we took it from 900 miles to 2,500. (Managed to get over 1,000 before buying gas for the first time, though.) The trip involved driving a mix of interstate and secondary roads from Pennsylvania to Georgia (Go see the Georgia Aquarium (largest in the Western Hemisphere) if you never have!). Traffic conditions ranged from no visible cars to Atlanta rush hour.

A few observations:

1. Fuel economy: 27.9 for the whole trip. I was able to recharge one night on 120V, which got the battery back to about 80%. At the beginning of the trip, I tried setting charge to 50% and keeping Charge Mode on in order to save up EV time for stop and go side streets, but this seemed to reduce the frequency with which the car shut off the engine and went into EV mode for long hill descents on the interstate. Probably still the best strategy for shorter highway runs or maybe crossing Iowa, but not for 11 hours of Appalachian hills.

2. Comfort was great. So much more space than our Audi Q5. Three adults and a tall 9yo had plenty of room and we didn’t have to carefully Tetris the luggage. The ride was very comfortable and the car has a surprisingly tight turning radius for such a large vehicle. Small complaints: There’s no coin holder and there’s a lot of real estate between the front seats that could be used for a small tray, rather than outward-sloping faux carbon fiber. Also, I'd love to be able to plug a phone in to the front USB-C outlets to charge without it being forced to try and connect to the car.

3. Radar Cruise and Lane Keep Assist are real helps, once you learn to work within their limits. I would use both systems when either on open road or in crawling traffic. With the cruise, my only real complaint is that, when you change lanes to pass, or the car in front of you does so, it SLAMS on the gas and drops several gears to get back up to the set speed. I wish I could set this to be more gradual. With the LKA, I found that it struggled with long shadows, patched surfaces, and tighter turns, even on 70mph highways. I also found that it rode concerningly far to the right when in the left lane. Ultimately, I stopped using it at all in crowded conditions where we were at full speed, as its attempts to bring the car back to what it thought was the center, meant that I was fighting it to stay a safe distance from tractor trailers, rather than keeping a safe, straight line. That said, both of these products are very helpful on long, monotonous drives and lifesaving in stop-and-go traffic jams. They reduce fatigue and let you pay more attention to traffic and signage around you.

Overall, a positive experience for our first outing with the new car. While we’re not getting quite the battery ranges that I’d hoped for, it’s still living up to the goal of not using any gas day-to-day and being a comfortable family hauler for long road trips.

EDIT: I've turned off all of the warnings, except for things happening behind the car. The lane departure warning, though, does still come on when LKA is activated. I get unreasonably indignant about this. Why is the car warning me that it's going over the line, when it's its job to to not do so?! /s

EDIT 2: The long trip really did make me appreciate how all of the important controls are still buttons and knobs. You can go a whole trip without digging into a menu and that is how it should be. Climate controls are neatly laid out and easy to adjust. Mirrors, wipers, lights, everything, can be manipulated by feel, once you get the hang of them. Please, Mazda, keep it this way. We comparison shopped this against Volvo, Genesis, and Buick, among others, and one major point in Mazda's favor was the reduced reliance on screens.

Have had the 3 for a couple of years. Been enjoying it… decided to get the 90 too. Looking forward to seeing how it handles in the snow. Any experience?

I have mazda3 2017 currently on version 57

Title says it all.

Thank you for any help!

This is more of a ranting post because I have the worst luck. Somehow my transmission blew up in my 2019 Mazda 3 hatch AWD. I only have 71k miles on the car. Bought it certified pre-owned in 2022 for the warranty and it expired in back in May of this year. I absolutely love this car and I'm going to pay out of pocket to get it fixed at the dealership by a certified tech, but like damn what a freak incident and terrible timing. Just 5 months earlier it would have been covered.

Does Mazda corporate offer good faith fixes when the warranty expires because like damn this sucks.

After owning an Alfa 159 SW 1.9 16V for many years (12 years), I’m considering getting a 2019 Mazda CX-5 with 123,200 km on the odometer (verified via CarVertical; the service records all match up).

It’s almost fully loaded—featuring heated front and rear seats, a heated steering wheel, ventilated seats, matrix headlights, and plenty of other equipment.

My question is: is this 2.2 diesel engine really that bad, or have the engine-related issues largely been resolved in this model year?

Immediately upon purchase, I plan to change the oil in the engine, transmission, and differential (since it’s an AWD model). I’m also considering cleaning the intake system and inspecting—and likely replacing—the injector seals (washers).

My driving would be roughly a 50/50 split (city vs. open road), as I have a smaller vehicle specifically for city use.

For context, I racked up over 290,000 km on my Alfa, and it still has its original DPF and EGR system.

Plus, it comes in a gorgeous red color.

My sister just got a used 2009 Mazda 6 from a dealership. The key fob it came with didn't work (held together by scotch tape and a prayer). They chip key works, just not the fob/remote. We went to some mobile locksmithing company that was at Costco one week. They cut her a new key and programmed it. When it came to programming the fob, it wouldn't work. They tried for about 30min. The guy said maybe the fob was bad cause they sometimes are and ordered her a new one.

I found instructions for programming the fob online https://www.programyourremote.com/classified/2009-mazda-6-keyless-entry-remote-fob-smart-key-programming-instructions-listing-9201.aspx. These are the same steps the locksmith tried. I tried both the fob they gave her a couple weeks ago and this new one that just arrived in the mail. Neither will program. Once I get to step 4C on those instructions, the locks do cycle, indicating the car is entering programming mode, but once at step 5 (pressing the "unlock" button twice) on either fob does nothing.

Could it be something wrong with the keys? Interference from other devices? The receiver for the signal busted? I am at my wit's end.

Worth noting- I do still have the original OEM fob as well, but I cannot get it to work. There is a little red light that should come on when you press the button, but it will not light. I tried flipping the battery over, tried a new battery, nothing. I don't know if the prongs are in the right place or if a piece is missing. The setup with the prongs is different than the new fobs, so I can't be sure. I'll attach a picture in case anyone recognizes the setup and can chime in.

Our CX3 was serviced a couple of months ago and warning light reset. the tool light has come on twice in the last 2 days (i reset it yesterday) and it was back on this morning.

anyone have any ideas why this is happening and how to solve? thank you

Hey, if anyone knows the answer please let me know 🙏