Ive been working on this build around a window using billy bookcases. On either side of the window are the full sized bookcases, with doors on the bottom ( currently removed in the photos). On either side of those, I have cut down the half size book cases to fit. I had originally thought to have the bookcase to the ceiling but was thwarted by the air-conditioning unit. In my planning I have not come up with anything to resolve this and thought I would just use the shelf closest to the ceiling to place books and decorative items. However, I thought to check here to see if anyone had come up against something similar, or had any ideas. Note that the current placement allowed enough space for the unit to be opened and cleaned. I am currently painting g the shelving unit as you can see in the photos.

i picked up a gently used right sided bekant desk recently and i’m trying to think of ways to protect the surface from scratches/wear and tear. i’ve wanted one of these desks since the pandemic and it’s perfect for my work from home set up. the finish on it isn’t as durable as some of the other pieces i’ve had. due to the odd shape, i’m not sure what to use.

thanks!

I cobbled this 220x60cm desk from a number of second hand Micke desks.

Sourced from kerbside cleanups and the IKEA used goods section, it required three desks to create two complete frames.

The table top is a pre oiled timber panel from the local hardware shop.

The frames were joined and reinforced with some extra pine timber. The tabletop is held in place with steel brackets with oversized holes to allow for movement in the wood.

I bought few EKET units and had an issue, cause small EKET drawers were very difficult to open while the wide ones were so easy to open I could accidentally open them with just a light touch.

I decided to get rid of the push to open mechanism and use my own handles.

Getting rid of the mechanism in case of small EKET was easy, cause there is a plastic piece at the end with 2 small tabs, that latch onto the rail. I tried gently pulling them, but ended up breaking the plastic. Anyways, I didn't plan on going back to the old way of opening them.

The wide one was a bit trickier. The whole clicking mechanism is held in place using 2 metal tabs and a rivet. Luckily those tabs could easily be bent and when applied a bit more force, the rivet was broken without need for any tool.

Lastly I designed and 3D printed the handles. I used some double sided tape to keep them in place. It works and looks very nice!

I uploaded the model to MakerWorld too, so if anyone wants it, I can drop the link in the comments.

I have a "nook" in my utility room that I would like to add two PAX units to emulate a built-in. I would use this for storing hanging clothes, sports equipment, bulk goods, etc. The space is 71" wide, 29" deep and 115" high. The ceiling is crazy high - so even with 93" PAX, I have quite a bit of room. I would like to add something below the PAX units for additional storage, especially if I can get something that can accommodate larger items like gym bags and bulk shopping items. Drawers or baskets if I can't find a way to do drawers. Any ideas of what could be used for this or how you would plan it if this was yours?

My plan was to do a 39" and a 29" pax next to each other, add whatever filler I need to make it look built in, but to have these on top of another structure and then trim to the ceiling. I don't want to add cabinets on top of PAX as they're far less accessible. Thoughts are greatly appreciated!

I'd like additional shelving between each tier. Any tips on how to achieve this neatly?

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Does that already count as a hack? I made some feet-inserts for the larger Samla boxes so they can be stacked on top of two smaller ones. The feet are differently sized for each single variant, I just have ones for the 22 litre version so far.
Edit: Uploaded the files to printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1892997-ikea-samla-feet
A source file to edit with solidcraft is included.

I’m planning built-in Pax wardrobes and want to paint the doors and add custom moulding.

I’m willing to buy a good sprayer and do the prep properly: scuff sanding, bonding primer, filling and caulking the moulding seams, and several thin coats.

My worry is the finish. Everything on YouTube and Instagram looks flawless, but you can’t see or feel a surface through a screen up close.

For those who’ve actually done this:

• Up close and to the touch, how does your result compare to a factory-lacquered door? Any orange peel, dust nibs, visible seams where the moulding meets the door, or texture differences on the edges?
• Durability after a year or more: any chipping on edges, around handles, or where the doors get grabbed?
• What sprayer, primer and paint did you use, and what would you do differently?
• Close-up photos taken at a low angle with light raking across the surface would be hugely appreciated. That’s what shows the real finish.

If the honest answer is “you’ll get 90% there but never factory level,” I want to hear that too, along with whether ordering custom painted fronts would be the smarter move.

I'm shopping for wardrobes and I'm contemplating getting a good old Pax. However, I'm not super happy with the lighting choices from Ikea after seeing premium wardrobes with such nice vertical full-height led strips. Did anyone manage to hack something like that in their Pax? Thanks!

I wanted to mount the Varmblixt vertically to see more of the shape, and rather than put a hole in the wall I thought one of the shelves in this Kallax unit could work.

I used just the front panel from the door kit, combined with 4 6”x8” shelf brackets from Home Depot with #7 1/2” screws. The brackets are the only thing holding this in place by tension against the top and bottom of the shelves.

It’s not a perfect flush fit but for my purposes it looks pretty good. You could definitely custom cut some wood or another substrate to fill the gaps better but this was very easy and took like 10 minutes to make. Also I opted not to run the cord through the door since it’s not super visible but I’m sure you could drill a hole for cable pass through.

I want to add hairpin legs to a Moppe to make a small cabinet. But the supplied screws are too long for the depth of the base. Any suggestions?

I thought about superglue. Or wood glue plus very short screws. Nothing very heavy will go in the drawers and I have the option of fixing it to the wall it will stand against.

Has anyone tried to modify one of these doors to add a glass panel in the center? I’m trying to put together a kitchen cabinet and want the glass paneling but need it to fit a 24x40 cabinet and they don’t make the 12x40 doors with glass. I know it’s fiberboard core so a bit nervous about trying to do it

I took the red IKEA KORTLINJE alarm clock (42×9 LED matrix, VK1640 drivers) and replaced the stock MCU path with a Seeed XIAO ESP32-C6.

What it does now:

• Wi-Fi setup hotspot + web UI (`ikea-pixel-clock.local`)
• NTP time, 2 alarms, weather, brightness / night mode
• Draw your own 42×9 patterns, marquee text, animations
• Small pixel games on the original panel

Hardware notes that bit me: had to remove SMD resistors for the LED data/clk lines, and swap D44 for a 1N5408 to stop flicker (driver ~4.6V vs ESP 3.3V signals).

Bilingual build guide + firmware: https://github.com/kobebeefg/ikea-clock-lab

Happy to answer wiring / board questions.

Hey everyone! Thank you for all of your tips and tricks on painting Ikea furniture. I am thinking about building a besta cabinet for my records, adding some round legs, and topping it with a marble slab. I have seen some really great tips on painting the laminate, but I'm very scared about the time it takes and then it chipping. For those of you that have painted laminate Ikea furniture before, how is your furniture holding up?

Which hinge can I use to install a wooden drawer to the bottom of Ikea Pax?

Can I use Ikea Utrusta (805.248.82) hinges?

Or do I have to use Hettich ET 582-72134 hinges?

Do I have to use same hinge for all? Can I swap only the bottom hinges?

There’re a lot of pax hacks out there with skirting/baseboard under and painted to look built in. Just posting this in case anyone’s interested in a different approach.

Still needs more oil and some handles!

It’s not that shiny in real life, the oils still wet and my camera is picking up the reflections

I'm always trying to create storage solutions for my oversized art books! Put three IKEA RÅGGBERG shelves together for shoe and book storage in our entryway and added a custom cushion from Etsy. Super simple.

Links for anyone interested:

• IKEA RÅGGBERG: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/raggberg-bench-with-shoe-storage-pine-50611159/
• Custom cushion from Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/4449683913/custom-corduroy-bench-cushion-high?sr_prefetch=1&pf_from=shop_home&ref=shop_home_active_5&pro=1&frs=1&sts=1&logging_key=c4e78917d53f670317237789c5017ba8ca5aa06b%3A4449683913

I noticed many projects dedicated to the SKÅDIS panel, and that piqued my curiosity.

On closer inspection, designing a fastening system robust enough to last over time represents a real technical challenge, especially without support (yes, purists are unbearable!).

I wanted to create a reusable module on the panel. This module serves as storage for tools and equipment, or to display decorative objects, plants, small collectibles…

Its distinctive feature lies in its front face: a textured, undulating, and highly detailed shell. Arranged in a staggered pattern, it reveals its full potential. Procedural texturing in Blender with a checkerboard pattern (workflow: surface subdivision, displacement (20 million triangles), decimation, and STL export).

Technical specifications:

2 parts to print in total: the module (which includes the hooks on the right) and the fastener (on the left)

Print both parts without supports

• Internal dimensions: width 15.7 cm × variable depth from 3.8 to 7.8 cm × height 6.6 cm (the front panel is corrugated, so the depth varies from one end to the other)
• External dimensions: width 17.4 cm × maximum depth 8.5 cm × height 6.9 cm
• Module wall thickness: 3.5 mm (texture not included)

https://www.printables.com/model/1867626-textured-finish-module-for-skadis-panels-no-suppor

Any suggestion hot to make an ikea Askholmen foldable?
The diagunal pieces are screw in place, but I assume if they were swinging, I could pull it off.
Then I need some sort of lock?

Any idea?

https://www.ikea.com/jp/en/p/askholmen-table-outdoor-dark-brown-10535681/

Looking to lower a sektion kitchen cabinet with drawers to fit under a window, end up a bit over 1" off the floor. Any issues with this, risk of drawers hitting the floor? Thanks

I have 2 Nammaro armchairs (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/naemmaroe-armchair-outdoor-light-brown-stained-froesoen-duvholmen-beige-s29610265/#content) and I find the back to be both too hard, and slightly too far from the front of the chair.

I've tried using the seat cushion as a back cushion, which works but looks a little silly.

Has anyone found a cushion that fits this size well? (IKEA or otherwise)? None of the other outdoor cushions are an obvious match for the size.

Thanks!

I already made a Hemnes modification shelf a few years ago.

Now i was in big need for more shelves.

And i wanted it to go from floor to roof.

So with some moldings and paint im happy with the result .

I'm owned by 2 cats, and I've recently moved to a new apartment.
There wasn't enough space, and I didn't want to have their litter's in my bathroom anymore so I searched online. I've seen a lot of genius hacks, so I came up with a refined version of it, trying to learn from the mistakes, yet making some others. It's inevitable

I've used BESTÅ 120 with two doors, one litter box per compartment, and a 22 cm (8.7 in) round hole in each side panel.

The scary part was the cut. The panels are two thin skins over a paper honeycomb, with a solid band about 45 mm wide along the edges. Stay at least 5 cm from every edge and you only cut honeycomb, so the edge comes out even!

What worked for me:

• Bosch circle-cutting guide on the jigsaw and a T 101 BIF laminate blade, cutting from the outside face: no chipping. Both holes took about an hour and a quarter.
• Silicone pushed into the hollow edge, then a self-adhesive rubber U trim. Cut the trim about 5 mm short: it expands in the heat.
• Rubber U-profile to finish the cuts
• Silicone in every inside joint and in the shelf-pin holes, so pee can’t reach the cardboard.
• Anchored to the wall.

If anybody wants to re-do that, I wrote it all up as a step-by-step PDF, with the measurements and the mistakes I made: https://edgardomaxia.com/guides/besta-cat-litter-cabinet-guide.pdf

I'm doing a wraparound library. I took out all my baseboards bc I was planning to build bases that I could attach to my studs to protect my floating laminate.

The rest of my home has 5.5 inch baseboards. I originally started building 2x4 bases but that would make the baseboards 7.5 inches if I matched my wall to the bookcase fronts.

I could switch to 2x2s to get something more congruent.

Or do you think it would look okay to have higher fronts on the bookcases that wouldn't match lower baseboards.

Would love to see examples of baseboards on other projects.