I just got this by email from openwakeword.com. This is a major problem for me. Edit: and so this could be a solution.

————-
Dear openWakeWord community,
A short update on something I have been working on for the past weeks: a new generation of the training pipeline, V5, is now live for every new wake word.

What changed
After the model is trained, we run it against thousands of hours or all sorts of sounds and find all moments that creates false activations for this specific model, We then fine tune the model to add robustness were it was weak. In the training page you will see this step as "Improving robustness against false activations".

The results
We tested it on three wake words with 45.6 hours of real-world audio the models had never heard (far-field meeting recordings and public-domain films, clean and with room/device simulation). Same detection rate, 82 % fewer false activations:

Hi everyone, I’m the developer, so full disclosure up front.

NetMon monitors the devices on your home network (NAS, cameras, router, IoT gear) and alerts you on Telegram, email or ntfy as soon as one stops responding. The probe runs as a Home Assistant add-on, so if HA already runs on a Pi or a mini PC you don’t need extra hardware.

It works with a small online server that stores the results, shows a status page and sends the alerts. Because the server sits outside your home, you still get notified if HA, the router or the whole line goes down.

It’s in beta, so expect rough edges. I host the server, and there are paid tiers (with a limited founder tier) for people who don’t want to run their own.

Add-on and info:

https://netmonhome.net/

https://github.com/ba1090/netmon-homeassistant

I’d love your feedback:

1. Would you want device status exposed as entities or sensors in HA?
2. What would you monitor beyond ping?
3. Any problems installing the add-on?

Thank you!

Andrea

Mac users with an M series CPU have the option of loading iOS / iPadOS Apps on their Macs, I use it for several apps I find handy to be there, including the HA Companion App. I recently noticed that while the App recognizes it's the Companion App, it doesn't have the Companion App Settings section that allows you to turn on Kiosk mode. I assume maybe there are some iOS/iPadOS calls that the emulation doesn't support, but is it possibly just something few people would use and not worth the time? Anyone else tried to use this?

Hi everyone,

I have been running Home Assistant on an Intel Compute Stick STCK1A32WFCL for more than 3 years now and it has been working fine. I always had plans to get a Home Assistant Green but due to the price I kept postponing it.

I am from India, and with the current exchange rates import restrictions and other issues with ordering from certain websites and countries the price of HA Green has now gone above Rs. 23k. Earlier it was around Rs. 11k before the RAM crisis.

Currently I am again looking for a replacement for my current device. I am considering these options:

• Raspberry Pi 5 Model B 4GB - around Rs. 13k
• Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 4GB - around Rs. 10k
• Home Assistant Green - Rs. 23k+

I am also interested in using an M.2 HAT with the Pi 5 to take advantage of its PCIe interface and run HA from an SSD instead of an SD card. My main concern is SD card corruption in the long run as I really don't want to go through the pain of setting up Home Assistant all over again.

For those of you running HA on a Raspberry Pi I would like to know a few things:

1. How has your experience been with the Pi 4 or Pi 5 running Home Assistant?
2. Is the Pi 5 worth the extra Rs. 3k over the Pi 4, especially if I plan to use an M.2 HAT and SSD?
3. Would you recommend going with a Raspberry Pi setup over HA Green at these prices?
4. Should I wait for HA Green prices to come down, or is it unlikely to happen anytime soon?
5. For fellow users from India, is there any reliable place to buy HA Green at a reasonable price?

I know there are other options like mini PCs, but I would prefer something low-power and compact for running HA 24/7.

Would appreciate your suggestions and experiences. Thanks.

Demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWd3CM_M17k

I'm Xus, the developer. Altillo is a free, MIT-licensed macOS app that lives in the notch (or a virtual island on displays without one). Home arrived in 0.11.0 and is included in the current 0.12.0 release. It's a beta section that talks directly to Home Assistant on your network. No account, no Altillo server, no analytics. macOS 26+ only. It's an independent project, not affiliated with Home Assistant.

What works today: lights (click to toggle, drag to dim, tiles glow in the bulb's colour), switches, fans (on/off), covers with position, scenes and scripts, a sensor row, rooms from your areas, and a doorbell peek with a camera snapshot. It finds your instance on the network and signs in with Home Assistant's own login page (OAuth + PKCE); the resulting long-lived token stays in the macOS Keychain. Plain http only on the LAN; remote needs https.

Not yet: climate, locks, alarm, garage door control, media players, live camera, multiple servers, iPhone. Apple Home on the Mac only through Shortcuts, and that's still "coming soon".

The video uses the app's demo home; the doorbell picture is an illustration.

Download: https://altillo.app/ Code: https://github.com/XusBadia/altillo

I'd like to hear where discovery or sign-in fails (reverse proxies, custom ports, self-signed certs) and which entities look wrong.

I wanted to do a little update on my vibration sensor monitored mouse traps.

For those who asked, the 3D print files for the sensors is now on Makerworld. Enjoy!

Download here

I could not be more happy with this setup. I legit feel like I'm living in the future 😁

I updated the automation to a single automation that covers as many sensor traps as I deploy - and when it fires, I get full information on which trap, where, and when.

I also added an actual mouse kill counter that gets auto incremented and I can adjust if a trap goes off without a mouse.

Probably the best change now is an arming switch for each trap on the dashboard. When a trap is disarmed, motion does not set it off. This allows me to set and clean the traps without notification and kill counter bombing. I put the traps in place. Hit the arm button. Good to go.

I'll probably get roasted for this in this subreddit but I've been running Home Assistant and HomeKit side by side for years and wanted one place to see and control everything, laid out where it actually is in my house. So I built Home.io.

It puts your devices on a 3D model of your house. Lights glow in the rooms they're in, doors and locks show if they're open, sensors show their readings, and you tap anything to control it. There's also a flat 2D plan view and a regular dashboard if you'd rather have tiles.

How it works with HA:

- Connects straight to your HA server over the WebSocket API with a long-lived token. Nothing to install on HA, no HACS, no add-on

- Pulls in your areas as rooms, so devices land in the right rooms on their own

- Lights (color and warmth), switches, fans with speeds, climate, locks, covers and garage doors, cameras, media players, scenes, and sensors (temperature, humidity, motion, occupancy, doors, leak, smoke, CO, battery)

- Appliances like washers, dryers, dishwashers and ovens show what they're doing and the time left

- Energy from your Energy dashboard, by room, with solar, gas and water

- History charts from your recorder

- If you also use Apple Home, it merges both into one house with no duplicates. No HomeKit bridge needed.

The wall tablet part is what I use most. Mine is an old 6th gen iPad on the wall. When nobody's using it the whole house fills the screen with the time, weather and what's playing, and it wakes up when you walk up to it. It can also report itself to HA as an occupancy sensor, so you can use it in automations. If you leave it in wall mode, your iPhone can reach HA from anywhere through your own iCloud, without exposing HA to the internet.

For the model, you can draw your floor plan in the app, scan it with LiDAR, trace a photo of your plans, or import a 3D model (USDZ/OBJ). What worked best for me was giving Claude my floor plan and having it build the model in Blender, then importing it.

Version 1.0.1 is out now. A Mac version is in review with Apple, and the next update adds Celsius, who's home from your HA person entities, a forecast line, a "show just lights/climate/security" filter on the house, and better handling of imported models.

The catch: it's Apple only (iPhone, iPad, Mac), so it's no help if you're on Android. It's free to start (one floor plan of your own, control of everything, a dashboard and schedules), and Pro is a one-time $7.99. No subscription, and it collects no personal data.

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/home-io/id6823824273

Happy to answer questions, and tell me what's broken or what you'd want it to do.

Setup

• HAOS 18.3 on a wired Pi 4, Core 2026.9.4, Matter Server app 9.2.0. Same problems back when HA was a VM on a Mac mini.
• Thread border routers: a HomePod mini and an Apple TV 4K. Channel 25. No other border routers.
• 8 IKEA Matter devices: 3 BILRESA scroll wheels (fw 1.9.15), 3 TIMMERFLOTTE temp/humidity sensors (1.0.21), 2 GRILLPLATS plugs (1.4.6, these act as Thread routers).
• LAN: ISP router plus a Deco mesh.

Symptom

The sleepy devices (the wheels and the sensors) go unavailable and stay that way for hours. Restarting the Matter Server app brings them back, sometimes for only 20 minutes. Today one wheel came back after every restart and died again almost exactly 20 minutes later, all day.

The device is alive the whole time. It answers ping6 on its Thread address while matter.js says it's unresponsive.

What the log shows, every time

Subscription successful « @1:19 ... interval: 15m timeout: 15m 38s (about 15 min later the device sends its periodic report, which arrives fine) InteractionMessenger @1:19 Error sending success after final data report chunk [peer-unresponsive] Peer is no longer responding to active session (timed out after 1m 2s) ClientSubscription Failed to establish subscription to @1:19, retry in 17.6s: [peer-unresponsive] IpServiceStatus @1:19 Resolving (address is unreachable) Node @1:19 offline grace period expired, marking unavailable

So device to HA works (the report arrives), but HA to device fails (our ack never lands). After that, matter.js never gets the node back on its own. Only a restart does.

Already tried

• Linux installs a two-nexthop route to the Thread prefix (both Apple BRs advertise it), so I pin it. First the whole prefix through one BR, now a /128 per sleepy device. That cut missed acks a lot in August, but not to zero.
• Matter server resync / ICD resync: helps after a single missed ack, does nothing once a node is stuck.
• Scheduled Matter Server restarts: 30-40 min of relief each. Restarting too often made things worse.
• Unplugged both IKEA plugs to rule them out as bad routers: no change.
• Re-commissioned a wheel: no lasting change.
• RF looks fine: LQI 3, strong RSSI to each device's parent.
• Moved HA from the VM to the Pi: no change.
• The Deco mesh drops every LAN device for 1-5 min around 02:00 every night. That reliably kills all the sleepy devices until the next restart.
• Zigbee isn't an option for the wheels: from what I've read, BILRESA loses the scroll function under ZHA/Z2M.

What I found since

matterjs-server issue #1098 shows the exact same error with BILRESA buttons behind 4 Apple border routers and a Nest Hub, at about 19 errors an hour. The reporter moved all 20 devices to a single OpenThread border router (EFR32MG24 RCP) without re-pairing them, and the errors dropped to zero. The maintainer's take is that this is Thread delivery through the Apple/Google border routers, not matter.js. That points me at a dedicated OTBR.

One more data point from tonight. The dying wheel's Thread parent is near the Apple TV, but my route pin sent HA's traffic to it through the HomePod. I added a /128 route to it through the Apple TV and restarted the Matter Server. It got past the first 15-min report for the first time today, while two devices still routed through the HomePod dropped again. So far that's one cycle.

Questions

1. Has anyone moved IKEA Matter devices off Apple border routers onto their own OTBR (ZBT-1/ZBT-2, or an SLZB in Thread mode)? Did the drops stop for good?
2. Did you keep the OTBR as a separate Thread network from Apple's, or join it to Apple's network? Joining seems to bring the Apple routers back into the path.
3. Did you move the devices without re-pairing, or factory reset and re-commission?
4. Anyone running Apple-only border routers with sleepy IKEA devices that are stable for weeks? What's different about your setup?

Thanks!

Sorry for such a nube question here...but trying to get my arms / head around how this works between the two...had an existing HomeKit ecoysystem...expanding / moving into Home Assistant. Is there a way to move my entire current HomeKit ecosystem into Home Assistant as is, or do you have to add each individual device into Home Assistant by the 1's OR is there an "integration" function within Home Assistant that will do this in mass? And vice versa...once I have everything in Home Assistant can I also sync back those devices to HomeKit without living in a duplication hell. Thanks in advance...appreciate this community!

I've been building out my Home Assistant setup for years, and it finally reached a point where I’d like to share how I built it. The most important difference to other setups is that while as much as possible is using YAML configuration over UI, no YAML is written by hand. Everything is defined in Python through a framework I built (PyConf), which compiles down to ~457,000 lines of generated YAML from about 63,000 lines of Python.

The framework is what makes it fun to work on. The house is defined as a hierarchy of areas (rooms, porches, garages, plus an accessory dwelling unit), each knowing its lights, locks, cameras, thermostats, and media players. Devices are typed objects: adding one to an area registers all of its entities automatically. Devices and entities carry semantic tags, so a magnet sensor registered as an exterior door becomes a security device that shows up on the security dashboard and triggers door-open alerts, while lights tagged 'accent' stay out of occupancy automations. Behavior lives in self-contained “apps” with their own configurable inputs, so you can tune things from the UI without touching code. Dashboards are generated from the same model: 13 of them, including one per wall-mounted tablet, each automatically showing the views for the devices in its room.

It is developed like software, because it is: 5,400+ automated tests across 374 test files, a six-stage pre-commit pipeline (ruff, usort, black, flake8, YAML regeneration, mypy), validation that catches duplicate automation IDs and missing actions before deploy, and git-based deploys with automatic rollback if validation or reload fails. I started this long before the AI revolution, but it turns out that this is what makes AI based development much easier and more robust. Using this model, it is trivial to ensure that when I add a device, I do it in one place. It’ll automatically show up on all dashboards where it needs to show up, without me or AI having to remember to update all the configs.

Scale: 1,000+ connected devices across 83 areas, 120+ ESPHome devices, 33 cameras, 40+ manufacturers.

A few of my favorite automations:

• Bed weight sensors detect who is in bed; getting up at night lights dim WLED floor strips so you can see without waking anyone or bumping into things.
• Two CPAP machines on smart plugs: when power draw crosses a threshold, the house goes into night mode.
• The dishwasher's status shows in the under-cabinet toekick lights: red = dirty, yellow = running, green = clean.
• Temperature and humidity sensors in the fridges, so a failing fridge gets noticed before the food does.
• Opening a window pauses heating/cooling, closing it resumes, including a sliding door and motorized window that aren't smart out of the box, driven by a Raspberry Pi with an SDR replaying RF remote commands over MQTT.
• Garage bays on ratgdo smart openers, with WLED bay lighting that follows the door state and controllers that shut down if they overheat.
• A medication reminder that starts polite at 9 AM and gets progressively less polite through the day, with NFC tags and notification buttons to mark pills taken.
• Five BambuLab 3D printers reporting completion and failure individually, so you know exactly which one needs attention.
• A 4-level alert system (Clear/Info/Warning/Severe) with per-person subscriptions, rate limiting, and actionable buttons, so a garage door alert comes with a 'Close it' button.

Self-healing is built in: tablets that lose connection get navigated back home, stale backups trigger alerts, and anything unavailable for 24+ hours gets flagged. WLED controllers and Inovelli light switches are automatically provisioned, so config drift is fixed quickly, usually without anyone noticing. My Zigbee network used to need daily restarts; since I moved to the ZBT-2 coordinator it has been flawless, so the auto-recovery I built for it mostly sits idle now, which is the best possible outcome for a self-healing system.

The house also has voice satellites that pause media in the room when they activate, and six dogs tracked three ways: BLE room triangulation, GPS collars, and AirTags for when one hides under furniture.

Happy to answer questions or go deeper on any piece, especially the Python-first config side.

Built this over a few days after seeing the Microducks and Reachy Mini.

Satellite: Rooted 2nd Gen Echo Dot using EchoMuse, added to HA as an ESPHome voice satellite. The wake word runs on the Dot.

Pipeline: Whisper + Piper, plus a custom conversation agent that calls a small bridge on my PC

Brains: A bridge sends each question to Claude or a local Qwen 35B model, and I can switch by voice

Local model: Qwen3.6 35B-A3B (IQ4_XS) on llama-server, 12GB GPU with the experts split between VRAM and RAM, ~50 t/s

Agent mode: It can open a browser, play music, control my TV and PC, and I can also text it on Telegram

Face: A spare phone shows a Rive avatar that reacts to the satellite state (listening, thinking, responding)

I recently discovered that it is possible to "change mode" on the newer IKEA KAJPLATS Matter-over-Thread light bulbs. This was a major source of happiness for me as I thought that the cheap zigbee solution was over and was already considering starting to switch to Philips Hue (which is 2x to 3x the price, yikes!).
TLDR: you reset the light (turn on and off 6 times), wait 5 seconds, and then you turn on and off 12 or 15 times (12 for "white" bulbs and 15 for "filament/incandescent" lights). I did it using a short script:

alias: Reset light
sequence:
  - variables:
      switch: switch.livingroom_relay_left
  - repeat:
    count: 6
    sequence:
      - action: switch.turn_off
        target:
          entity_id: '{{ switch }}'
      - delay:
          hours: 0
          minutes: 0
          seconds: 1
          milliseconds: 200
      - action: switch.turn_on
        target:
          entity_id: '{{ switch }}'
      - delay:
          hours: 0
          minutes: 0
          seconds: 1
          milliseconds: 600
  - delay:
      hours: 0
      minutes: 0
      seconds: 5
      milliseconds: 0
  - repeat:
      count: 15
      sequence:
        - action: switch.turn_off
          target:
            entity_id: '{{ switch }}'
        - delay:
            hours: 0
            minutes: 0
            seconds: 1
            milliseconds: 200
        - action: switch.turn_on
          target:
            entity_id: '{{ switch }}'
        - delay:
            hours: 0
            minutes: 0
            seconds: 1
            milliseconds: 600
mode: single

I got tired of grabbing my phone to dim the lights mid-movie, so I made an Android TV app. You pick one key on your remote, press it, and a Home Assistant panel slides in over any app: lights (brightness/colors), climate, scenes, locks, covers, cameras. Back closes it.

You can also link a doorbell button or sensor to a camera, so a small camera window pops up over your show when it fires.

Local only, no cloud, no ads, no analytics. Pairing is a QR code that opens your own HA login page, so 2FA works.

Google makes me run a closed test with 12+ people for 14 days before release, so I'm looking for testers with an Android TV / Google TV. Testers get Pro for free.

Join: https://play.google.com/apps/testing/com.aykutkorkut.flickbar (or email hello@haflickbar.com with your Google account and I'll add you)

More info: https://haflickbar.com

The camera picture in the screenshots is a sample image. Not affiliated with Home Assistant.

I have been planning to install a couple of those tablets/displays around my home, but other than being able to activate the alarm or turn things off when leaving, I cannot find a good reason for them.

Yes, they look nice, but they're completely useless. What's your take on this? Tell me why I'm wrong.

1. My phone is always in my hand, I can always check on things.
2. If I need a camera panel, that seems to be an OK reason, but which wall would be a good place to put it so I can always see things? Monitoring 6-7 cameras would surely require a large monitor to be visible from 10+ feet away. A small tablet is useless.
3. It's much more practical to switch my TV to the camera feed with the press of one button than to turn around and focus on a small tablet 12 feet away.
4. A nice display next to a bed or the sofa by the TV seems much more practical than a fancy tablet on the wall.
5. Why would I want to go to a wall tablet to change the music and control my Spotify?
6. Voice controls are mostly enough for anything i ever need.

I can confirm that I have two SLWF01 Pro’s running on two recently installed Senville SENA-09HF-IAA mini splits. No hardware modification required

I made this (with the help of AI, of course) to control my smart home from a small 3D model of my flat, and thought some of you might like it. Here’s what it does:

• Build your home in 3D in the browser. Trace rooms on a grid and drop furniture from a catalog, with a live 3D preview.
• Objects bound to real devices. Clicking a lamp toggles the real light. Lamps light the room and cast shadows, and the sun moves with the time of day.
• Auto-generated widgets. A side panel with a widget for each device, grouped by room.

Free, open source, installs through HACS: https://github.com/CarlesRojas/ha-diorama

Feedback welcome!

So yesterday i finished setting up my mounted tablet in the kitchen. It is connected to some bluetooth speakers and runs spotify. I can press play and pause via my dashboard. Now i wanted to also control the volume level, so i tried a script like this:

tablet_music_louder:

icon: mdi:volume-plus

sequence:

- action: notify.tablet

data:

message: command_volume_level

data:

media_stream: music_stream

command: >

{{ [

states('sensor.tablet_volume_level_music') | int(0) + 1,

state_attr('sensor.tablet_volume_level_music', 'max') | int(15)

] | min }}

mode: queued

max: 10

Basically: pick the current volume level off the "music stream" and add 1 to it. Obviously i have the same one, but with "substract 1" to lower the volume.

However.

Since the tablet is connected via bluetooth, the music volume is controlled by the "bluetooth volume". The script apparently only changes the media sound that comes from the tablet directly and does not affect the bluetooth volume at all and there is no "bluetooth_stream" or whatever to target instead.

Any ideas on how to either get those two volumes in synch, or just getting rid of the separate bluetooth volume? I tried disabling absolute volume but that changed nothing.

The tablet is a Samsung Tab A8 and the bluetooth speakers are Logitech Z207

Trying to get go2rtc set up in order to send pip pop ups to android tv from nest (wired 3rd gen doorbell and wired 3rd gen indoor cam). I have the cameras set up through the Google nest integration and they work/can display live footage. When I attempt to display that through pipup, I get a black screen. I read that streaming quality is much better/only possible(?) through go2rtc. I am able to add my nest information in the go2rtc UI and receive links for both cameras, but neither of the links do anything. Any help would be appreciated. Currently on OS version 18.3.

I'm trying to set up an automation for my third reality light and button.

I have one third reality color changing bulb and one Philips hue dimming bulb.

Right now my on/off automations work fine.

Single press - both lights, 100% brightness

Long press - both lights, 1% brightness

Double press - color changing bulb only, 100% brightness

Here's the problem. For the Double press, I want the color to be red for use at night. But the other presses, I want white.

How do I change the colors with my automations?

I can change it my manually through the app, but can't figure out the automation. AI isn't giving me useful answers.

Hi everyone!

I’m connecting an ESP32 to my AC, including a logic level converter to the data lines of communication. Melcloud still on CN110.

Now, I’m reading posts on the fact that the CN105 port may be not able to deliver enough mA.

Has anyone experienced troubles with this? Could a too high load (during wifi connection eg) damage some of the AC power circuit?

Anyone experienced damage to the AC board due to ESP32 connection?

Would really appreciate hearing your experiences!

MSZ-EF50VGKW

This "little" remote control opens and closes the rolling gate in front of our house, as well as the garage door, from a distance as I approach the property via internet.

Bonus features:
- the current charge level of our home solar battery (which helps me decide whether or not to plug in the car to charge)
- the arrival time of the next train at the nearby railway crossing (i.e., when the barriers will come down)
- button for our wallbox in the basement; unfortunately, it always defaults to a "neutral" state, but it needs to be set to "off" to schedule a delayed charging session via Home Assistant

The device consists of an ESP32 and a 2.8-inch ILI9341 touch display, housed in a small plastic box. The ESP32 connects to the car’s Wi-Fi network and our home’s Home Assistant server.

I recently set up Home Assistant on a Proxmox box and wanted my ruck stats on the desk dashboard next to my thermostat and drive health. So I built a proper integration instead of a pile of REST sensors.

What it does:

• UI setup: add the custom repo in HACS, install, Add Integration, paste a token. No YAML.
• Sensors for latest ruck (distance, duration, pace, pack weight, elevation, calories, steps, weather, avg HR), weekly and monthly distance, training load (fitness/fatigue/form), rank, and one sensor per active goal
• Bundled Lovelace card with the branding, compact and detailed layouts, and a visual editor where you check the metrics you want. It registers itself, so there’s no manual resource to add.
• Uses HA’s unit system and timezone automatically
• Re-auth flow if a token is revoked, plus a Repairs entry if your subscription lapses

Privacy/security:

• Read-only, scoped tokens generated in the app. Stored server-side only as hashes, max 5, and revoking one takes effect immediately.
• Route coordinates and per-second heart rate are deliberately not sent. A route usually starts at your house, and I didn’t want that sitting in your recorder history.
• Polls every 15 minutes

This is my first HA integration, and v0.1.0 just shipped. I’d like feedback from people who know HA better than I do. What would you want on the card?

I am trying to keep location turned off as much as possible these days. Obviously that means I can't determine location via wifi connection either. Is there any other way to infer that my phone is in the home zone without it?

I've installed a single SONOR TRV Gen 2 radiator thermostat on one radiator. And I'm really confused by what it's doing. It keeps turning the radiator off whilst the room is still cold or below the target temperature.

I was originally using Better Thermostat but removed that and I've just gone with SONOFF's own blueprint for an external sensor. I've got the custom quirk installed to get access to the various options as well.

The external temp switch is set to on and the external temp is perfectly mirroring that sensors temperature output value.

Target temp is set to 21°C, yet at various times it turns the radiator off at a lower temp. I've just been monitoring it this morning and it just turned the radiator off whilst the external temp was 19.8°C.

Device work mode: Manual
Fault status: Normal
HVAC action: Idle
Open window detected: Not detected

Why would it close the valve to idle if the external sensor temp is below the target value?

Heating on offset is -0.2°C
Local temp offset is 0.0°C

I'm clearly not understanding something but I would expect the valve to remain open (heating) until the external sensor reports a value above 21°C.

Any troubleshooting tips appreciated.