Just to show better the final assembly of my 2.1 system

Now I got the right Taramps power supply. Night and day difference as now there is no fan noise at all and no sign of 60hz humming.

I also added spring terminal blocks so I can easily adjust the speaker wires without tools.

Like I mentioned in the original post, I made new RCA cables. The box with two potentiometers is just that, potentiometers so I can change the volume of the subwoofer and stereo channels independently. But the volume of the entire setup I control in my mixing console.

I found this wood board mounting very interesting. The components stay accessible, get plenty of airflow, but still are very well secured, and the 3D printed feet are wide enough so it can't tip over.

Another difference from the original post is the subwoofer. The Bomber Slim TKL 10" I moved to my living room, and got this small 8" Bomber B-One. Not as powerful but because the size of its enclosure I can leave it on the same shelf, which is better for organization and for the sound inside the room.

The 3D printed parts you can find on my Printables page, all free to download, copy, share, modify.

On the Printables page you also see the mounting for an ATX PSU to do a similar setup.

I'm on my fourth serious Dayton speaker build, and each one is getting better.

FIRST BUILD: Ambitious 3-way, 2nd order crossing a sealed (1.8 ft3) RSS315HF-8 below 200hz, handing to two RS100-4's (in series), and an RST28F-4. Mid crossover is invisible to the ear or the mic, very smooth. Woofer cross benefited from downgrading to a single inductor and letting it support under the RS100 a little more.
This speaker took some tuning (variable l-pads then fixed) and a TON of mic time, and swapping some parts until everything measured about even. I think I cycled out a bad iron core coil in there somewhere. But, anyways, NOW they are a really crisp, detailed, "flat" monitor with bass extension down into the single digits comfortably, and a true nearfield f3 below 20hz. These are amazing to listen to critically, but get tiring for TV duty with all those spoken voices coming from all those aluminum cones. Low 80's efficiency.

SECOND BUILD: was a subwoofer to go with these low-extension monsters. Because while they were musically amazing (bring me that 1812 canon fire!) they do need some SPL to go with their tight and fast service. So the second build was a 4' (net) cabinet housing an SPA500 amp, an RSS390HF-4 woofer, and an RSS460-PR radiator. That monster presents bass in whatever manner one might prefer. Tight and thundering, loose and window shaking, or just barely civilized and rocking properly as it should when you have a 15" and 18" cone hanging out in the center of your living room.

THIRD BUILD: The first speakers still didn't do midrange spoken word great. And that subwoofer needed a companion, so I build two ~18l boxes ported for 45hz and filled with an RS180P-8 and a DC28F-8 with a 4th order crossover on each driver. These sound a little bright (my initially calculated lpads were too much, so I cut them out and haven't re-engineered them) but with YPAO calming them down, they blend with that big woofer real nice ("Large" mode and "extra bass" on, sub firing 180-out-of-phase). Now I've got a system that does almost everything I need. It sounds good for sports, And it can be straight up abusive with the SPL below 80hz. And it makes the plants shake amusingly if they have a branch too close to the RS180P's port. Problem with these is the brightness. I might calm them down, I might just replace them with a fifth build (planning hard on a design to replicate the Hitachi HSA4121 - a great sounding speaker!) (but today I might do two drive 12's instead of one 12 and one PR).

But anyways, FOURTH BUILD: is well underway. Two simple, plain, passive subwoofers. RSS314HO-4's in 1.4 ft3 boxes. These will allow me to solve a few problems in the living room including r/TVTooHigh, the giant 4' 15+18 sub is a big contributor to making the tv too high, so these little passive friends will have to take over. They'll be driven by an A400 amp fed by the LFE out on my AVR. (sidenote, the SLOW ASS turn-on speed of the SPA500 is annoying as hell. Worst thing about 2nd build) (that and the fact that it will xmax the radiator unless you trim down 18hz by like -8db)

Hopefully any minor difference in SPL is made up for by the low-end extension (I know they won't go as low as the HF-8, but hopefully close) and being a smooth match for the RS180P mains. And allowing my TV to come down several feet.

Just in case anyone is qurious. I just bought a 60w output power bank. A small 2×20w Bluetooth amplifier and a usb-c converter to plug into the amplifier. It works great! Stable power up to about 50w. Just make sure the converter has the amplifiers rated voltage.

I wish I had pictures, but im currently abroad.

Just thought ill share this with the community.

Like any good audiophile , once I had something perfect, I decided to make it even more complicated. 

When adding a preamp into my system, I have created a hum and I’m not sure if it’s from the preamp itself or some sort of ground loop and how to fix it.

So here are the facts in my normal solid state chain, which is a turntable > zphono stage > Parasound new classic 200 pre > Parasound 2125 > klipsch rp8000f all solid state it’s pretty much dead quite 

when adding in now a muzishare integrated tube amp that go to some heresy speakers via the fixed output it sounds spectacular ! But I do have a low hum now. 

now, removing the Parasound pre amp and connecting strait from the phono stage to the tube amp is also dead silent so it’s not the new muzishare tube amp. 

anyway, I removed all components one by one and no improvement. In fact when I had the pre amp off with nothing connected (except the fixed output) it still was there and when I disconnected the power cable from the pre amp, it resolved

so…….

1. is this some sort of ground loop? Everything is going into the power conditioner 

Or

2) have I just reached the max with this pre amp. Again when it’s all solid state it’s perfect quite and that’s with a phono stage and moving coil cartridge so it’s a good pre amp I love it. but if anything was going to test its build I’d be adding in tube amp.

*** you may be asking why I even want the preamp involved at all, and it’s because it has a sub-out with the musoshare does not, and also allows for some more inputs.

Hi everyone!

I hope I'm posting this in the right place. If not, please let me know and I'll move it.

I'm currently building my first DIY sound system for dub, reggae and techno, and I'm looking for advice on choosing a suitable subwoofer driver.

My budget for the driver is under €150, and I'm happy to buy second-hand if I can find something in good condition. Ideally, I'm looking for a decent mid-range professional driver with good punch, solid output and a sound that works well for both techno and dub.

Some drivers I've been considering are:

• B&C 18PS76 – if I can find one second-hand within budget.
• Electro-Voice EVX-180B – another possible used 18-inch option.
• Fane Sovereign 15-600 LF – a possible new 15-inch alternative.
• B&C 18TBX100 – another driver I've looked at, although I'm not sure I can find one within my budget.

I'm not set on any particular model, so I'd really appreciate other suggestions.

I'm planning to build the cabinet myself using 15 mm exotic plywood that I can get for free. I'd like to base the design on a proven, well-documented enclosure plan rather than designing everything from scratch. I'm particularly interested in something efficient, punchy, reasonably compact and visually appealing, inspired by professional sound systems such as Funktion-One.

This is my first build, so I'd appreciate advice on:

• Which driver offers the best performance for the money.
• Which drivers are suitable for a bass-reflex enclosure.
• Any proven cabinet designs or plans you would recommend.
• Whether a 15-inch or 18-inch driver would make more sense for my budget and intended use.

I'll be choosing a new amplifier as well, so the system can be matched properly.

Thanks a lot for your help and recommendations!

hey whats up diyaudio if you're familiar with rootlessjamesdsp check out the new fork of rootlessjamesdsp which has new speed/timeshifting of your live audio stream, as well as bpm detection, bpm targeting speedshifting match, pitchshifters, a compressor, a recorder, piano input for pitchshifter semitone intervals, and reordering of effects in the signal chain. the android apks are on the page so you can download the one appropriate for yo phone and install it via the normal methods

Hello everyone,

Im currently having a pretty decent 5.1 System and finally am going to start the journey of selling all of it. The only 2 items that might stay are the receiver with following data:

7.2-channel AV receiver

• Amplification: 7 channels, 100 W/ch (8 Ω, 20 Hz-20 kHz, 0.06% THD, 2 ch driven)
• Room correction: YPAO multipoint
• HDMI: 7 in / 1 out (eARC), HDCP 2.3
• Video: 4K/60 4:4:4 (18 Gbps); 4K/120 and 8K/60 pass-through listed as firmware update
• HDR: HDR10, HDR10+, Dolby Vision, HLG
• Audio formats: Dolby Atmos
• Other inputs: 1x optical, 1x coaxial, 4x analog (incl. phono MM), USB, Ethernet
• Outputs: 2x subwoofer pre-out, Zone 2 pre-out, 12 V trigger, headphone
• Wireless: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, AirPlay 2, MusicCast
• Standby power: 0.1 W
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 435 x 171 x 377 mm
• Weight: 9.8 kg

And the subwoofer with following Data:

• Design: bass reflex, direct radiator, 1-way
• Woofer: 1x 267 mm (10.5"), polypropylene
• Frequency range: 21 Hz (-3 dB) to 120 Hz (-3 dB); 140 Hz at -6 dB
• Max. power input: 200 W
• Latency: 5.8 ms (wired), 25.7 ms (wireless)
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 35.0 x 47.7 x 40.0 cm
• Weight: 19.5 kg

the receiver is a Yamaha rx-v6a and the subwoofer a Nubert nuSub XW-900 if that should be relevant.

I need to find out if it is worth it to keep these 2 items or sell them away also.

I want to end up with a good Stereo set or a 2.1 (would a bookshelf in a 2v1 make more sense than a floorstanding one if the subwoofer is going to do all the work?).

My budget will end up beeing up to 1000 euros per speaker.

Id love to hear what buildup makes most sense in the end if it is used for streaming and music in like 40 / 60 ratio. I dont mind losing surround at all, since i personally dont enjoy it as much as i used to, im enjoying music way more than streaming nowadays.

Also would love to hear any input that could help me on the way of my first diy setup.

I am not a craftmen myself, just a man starting to finally enjoy a few more hobbies since i´ve reached 40 years of age. I am lucky enough to have met someone that will end up building the speakers together with me aslong as i deliver the required materials, so i also gonna learn alot during the build.

Thanks alot for any input/help/ideas or even advice on what kind of homepage i could use for proper speaking plans and pieces.

I know this community can help me on my way, thanks alot for every input or just sharing thoughts.

Have a great day everyone.

Edit: Im from Europe, Germany, so shipping may cost too much in the end if from the us (20% worth of items = need to be paid for import tax)

I had a USB audio module from which I desorbed two 3-pin jack connectors (one for the microphone, one for audio). In place of the audio connector, I soldered on a 5-pin jack. I plugged the module into my laptop, started playing music, and connected my headphones—the music plays through them. The audio board has 3 pins: I connected one to the jack's ground (GND), one to the left channel, and one to the right channel. One of these pins—either the left or the right—outputs 1.4V.

When the headphones are unplugged, a multimeter shows continuity (it beeps) between the "left" and "left_out" points, and the same applies to the right channel; however, when the headphones are plugged in, there is no continuity. Next, I connected the `left_out` and `right_out` signals using resistors, resulting in a single output point. I soldered this point to the `A+` pin of a PAM8302A Class D mono amplifier, and connected the board's ground (GND) to the amplifier's `A-` pin. I also powered the amplifier with 5V (connected to its VCC and GND pins) and linked the amplifier's GND and `A-` pins together.

I also added speakers to the output.

I performed continuity checks: the headphone connections show continuity, as do the GND/VCC and GND/A- pairs. The VCC/GND pins receive 5V, and the `A+` pin shows 0.71V. I also turned the amplifier's gain control to the maximum (rotated clockwise).

However, when I unplug the headphones from the jack, there is no sound from the speakers—nothing plays

I am powering the amplifier from a battery (connecting 5V to VCC and GND), while the `A+` and the board's negative terminal are connected to the amplifier's `A-` pin.

Since the USB is connected to a laptop but the amplifier is powered by a battery—meaning they have different power sources—I connected the battery's GND to the amplifier's GND, and the audio board's GND to the amplifier's `A-` pin, effectively joining the GND and `A-` points on the amplifier.

The goal is for audio to play through the headphones when they are plugged in, and through the speakers when they are unplugged.

What Distribution filter parts should I use My friend AI says that I should use "Coils (Inductance): You need 9.0 mH" is this right to have 100 Hz and under. Help cuz I don't want to buy parts for nothing